Revenge 1577 by Loracs - Amati - 1:64

[Loracs]

@Baker, you are more than welcome... BUT it is going away fast 😉

 

@AllanYed, a thousand thanks for the reference and comments.  I will definitively look it up.  The printed sections from the kit are in fact nice.  I just like the look and feel of wood.  Hiding it behind paint/decal just makes me cringe.  It may end NOT historically accurate to use alternative, but I may just prefer the look.  What if the "Revenge" was sold, late in its life, to a rich merchant that revamp it a little (hey!). Still few weeks to think it out over.

Edited September 3, 2023 by Loracs

[Loracs]

About Inlays.  This is what I'm thinking (see picture).  The "feather pattern" (top one), on the side, along with a number of walnut strips.  Nothing really fancy, a simple outlook. The two below, likely for deck wall decoration, again with walnut strips for accent.

 

The last two, unlikely.  The one with the vertical pattern may clash due to the color.  The moon-cycle inlay is nice (loving it)... but maybe it's too wide.

 

Let me know what you think.  Would truly appreciate all your comments.

 

 

[Loracs]

Question about planking heavy curves (bow).  This is my first large ship with pronounced "curves".

 

If you look at the pictures (now sanded partially), you will see that I have a significant "clinker" effect (is it the right term? I mean plank binding upward at an angle with curvature) as I progress planking upward.  The question is how to avoid it in the first place.

 

a) should I have tapered all the planks below a little more to start with, basically better planning, to avoid a compounding-effect later?

 

b) should I have considered doing a drop plank to reduce the effect when it started mid-bow?

 

c) Should I have bent upward (against the grain) to reduce this effect and keep going? 

 

d) I have a problem in the planning of the bow.  Mainly the width of the planks since (due to the drop with the vertical curvature) there is no definitive end-point for calculation (like with the side of the ship).

 

Your help is very much welcome...  I can apply a better technique for the second planking.

 

Cheers,

 

 

Edited September 4, 2023 by Loracs

[Knocklouder]

Hi Loracs, for me , At the bottom of the page there is three little  dots that say "more" click on that. Then go to the article data base, there is all the information on how to line off your hull, and planking info.

 All you need to know about planking is there. I have been studying it for two years, just about got the hang of it , lol. 

 Good luck my friend,       

[Loracs]

@Knocklouder, reading again the tutorial, it seen that option (c) would be the most appropriate approach.  I forgot about using a 3-inch-wide tape to define the curvature of the plank.  I will try that.  Thanks.

[Baker]

Researched the planking of the hull of a galleon for my previous model.

(Starts in post 47)

 

[Loracs]

@Baker,  a thousand thanks!   Very nice model too... so it is a pleasure to read your log.

[Loracs]

First Planking, mostly done.  My first planking on a ship that size with such "curves"

 

It was far more difficult than anticipated.  I truly underestimated the "clinker effect".  It was ok up to mid hull, then it started to get bad.  I had to wet the surface and iron out the planks on the ship.  Wood expanded, then shrank, creating hairline space in places....  not the best approach.  Surface is ok tho, ready for the finishing step.

 

On the bright end, the sides and back (still doing the wedges) are nice.  No spaces, clean and smooth surface.  No need for wood putty!!

 

What I learned:

Read and re-read the planking tutorial.  

Spilling planks are a must.  Don't underestimate the plank clinker effect.

And finally, better define (planning stage) the shape (angle down) of each of the 4 sectors at the bow.  Having difficulties there.

 

Edited September 8, 2023 by Loracs

[Quimp Slattery]

5 hours ago, Loracs said:

First Planking, mostly done.  My first planking on a ship that size with such "curves"

 

It was far more difficult than anticipated. 

I know exactly what you mean. It is definitely the most difficult model making process that I’ve ever done. 
 

However, your results are magnificent. Sure, there are a few cracks to fill at the bow, but compared to my first bluff bow, yours fits like a dance floor. 
 

I’m doing my second fully round bow right now, second planking, and I’m just beginning to understand and achieve the ‘geometry of the curved surface’. That’s something I wasn’t taught at school. Looking at your first plank layer here, I think you’re very close already. Remember, the thinner second layer is much easier to work with. 

[Baker]

A very neat first planking 👍

[Loracs]

Small wedges at the stern are now filled.  I reviewed the tutorials on planking and noted the steps for improvement.  I'm starting to layout the hull completely anew for the second planking.  Note that the tapes are set at intervals rather than following the bulkheads. It will accomplish the same goal, getting measurements for each sector/band.  Temporary battens to follow.

 

However, I will need a week or two break to give my back a rest...  but will be back...!

 

[Loracs]

Deleted...  asking the question is the appropriate forum channel.

 

Edited September 10, 2023 by Loracs

[Loracs]

Spilling planks.  I learned the hard way that it is better to do before planking than fixing after. For me, I'm more comfortable using a guide for the shape I want to obtain, wet the planks and use a hairdryer for shaping.  I got mixed results using a travel iron, mostly because I have difficulties holding in place while ironing.  It keeps springing up in the curved area. We each develop small tricks to get things done...

 

Note: Clamps can leave a mark on the planks... use a wood strip on top of the planks (under the clamp) to hold things together now.

 

Edited September 12, 2023 by Loracs

[Loracs]

Second Planking: A plan is in place... now, I just need to follow it.  Took a while. I'm still learning this, so I keep questioning myself and the measurements.

 

Edited September 15, 2023 by Loracs

[Loracs]

Second Planking, slow progress.  Curving each plank against the grains seen to take forever!! Almost midway to the hull. Plank length is 120mm or 25 feet at this scale.

[Ronald-V]

That looks real good!

[Loracs]

Second Planking done...  finally.  Looking forward to doing something else.  Thanks to the many tutorials and logs from all of you, I'm happy with the final results.  Still need to touch sanding but it is ready for the first coat of matte poly.

 

Summary: Spiling planks was painfull at time (see below pulling my hair <joking>)... but planks at the bow lay flat. The wood has long grains and can break easily. Patience is a must. Working with 120mm plank-segments turned out to be a blessing.  Far easier to glue into place without making a mess.  You just need to get the first plank right.  First, double planking under my belt.

 

 

 

Edited October 14, 2023 by Loracs

[Knocklouder]

That's a very nice job , impressive frist model my friend.  Way to go ,  

[Loracs]

@Knocklouder,  a thousand thanks.  Despite some repetition... it is still fun!

[Baker]

Very nice planking 👍

[Ronald-V]

Agree with the other compliments....that is a lovely planking job!

Edited October 15, 2023 by mugje

[Loracs]

Hull completed.  I must say that I'm pretty happy to have this step completed and move on to other parts.  While I was around, I decided to get this level gunport(s) completed. Top off with matte poly.  Two more coats to go but that's the easy, while satisfying, part.  It gives a sense of what the wood will look like once finished.

 

[Loracs]

First deck cannons: I aged the cannons slightly with "brass black" to retain the brownish color.  Similarly, I treated the carriages with walnut wood stain to retain the wood grain. This gave it a more but aged wood look.  The last picture was before treatment. Subtle difference but still better in person.

 

Edited October 27, 2023 by Loracs

[Loracs]

Minimalist Decoration theme: From personal preference, I like minimalist design when it comes to painting model ships. I prefer woods of various types.  The historic "The Revenge" is heavy in paint... just too much for me.  There is nothing wrong with it (or the kit supplied materials) , it's just a matter of taste. I will thus be deviating from the historical layout... but I'm fine with it, which may not be the preference for some.

 

Walnut strips are of great quality, source from Modeler's Sawmill is a custom wood milling shop located in New Jersey, that caters to hobbyists and model shipbuilders (modelerssawmill.com).

 

I will be using wood inlays when possible.  Examples are shown below.  In addition, I have been planking the vertical panels with walnut strips for a better finish/look.  To add some 3D texture, I sanded the upper side of the strips for better definition when beside each other.

 

I hope I'm not offending anyone because of the lack of historic accuracy.  Enjoys...

 

 

 

 

Edited November 11, 2023 by Loracs

[Keith_W]

Of course nobody is offended ... your model, your choice! 

[knightyo]

I love the addition of the inlays! They look great.  I'm wondering if you want to do the same type of thing with the doors?  The inlays are so well done that the doors almost detract from them.   I only offer this as an opinion that is probably not held in the majority.  I am a master of going down rabbit holes and never finishing my projects.

 

Alan

 

 

[Loracs]

hello knightyo,  thanks for the comment.  you are right. I was thinking about carving the door frames...  but I fail badly at it. I just don't have the right tool for it. 

 

Maybe I should have painted the door only, keeping the door frame brass.  I'm just running out of idea, so I painted red.  Likely not the best?  Maybe another color that does not stand out so much?  Red look like a good idea at first....  but now i just don't know!  hehe!  Maybe off-white? 

 

Let me know what you guys think.

Edited November 6, 2023 by Loracs

[Baker]

I think your painting gives a very special and beautiful result.
At the time the Revenge was built, wood and iron were used.No brass 😉

The most common colors where red,green and white

[Ronald-V]

Love that you make choices you like!

[Fishooks]

On 7/12/2023 at 8:12 AM, Loracs said:

The middle strips are glued only to the first half...  as many suggest here. 

Hi Loracs..looking really good congratulations. I am not understanding what you mean by this line quoted above...and should get it clear before I start

 

Fishooks (John)