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Glue for second planking


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  That may depend on how much filler is on the surface, and what type of filler it is.  Once upon a time a project of mine had filler all over the surface (it was a large model of a B-29 out of reasonably good solid balsa underneath.  There were a couple area where it was thick and the filler flaked off in places and had to be repaired before painting.  After painting, the layer of paint may have stabilized things as there were no more flaking.

 

  'Seems that a clear coat sealer might do the same thing.  Then the planking (pre-bent where needed) should stick with aliphatic resin (e.g. Titebond), and will also bond along the edges plank-to-plank.  Light sanding will remove any unevenness and glue 'squeeze out' that may occur in the process of final planking.

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

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Do you actually need filler? Or are there major low spots. Or are you just trying to fill between individual Planks. If filling between individual planks, consider that it's really out of sight and has no bearing on the completed model. If you have significant low spots, consider filling with a softer wood glued in place then sanded to shape instead of a soft filler that any kind of cement wont adhere to well.

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PVA.   

Irreverent question:  If there is to be a second layer of wood, what is the need to fill any gaps between the first layer of planking?

If there are significant hollows in the run a PVA bonded wood scab would be better that a Bondo-like material?

If there are minor dips, would the second layer even be able to follow?

 

An experiment to try:  coat the outside of the finished first layer with PVA and let it cure / dry / polymerize.

After the second layer planks are shaped, coat the inner face with PVA and let it dry.

Place the outer plank and iron it with a heat source that has temp control to avoid char or cooking.  Instant bond.   If you are compulsive, maybe a very thin wet addition before ironing as well as the PVA at the edge where the caulking would be. 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Hi Ian,

 

Wood is wood is wood (except oily stuff like Brazilian red wood for example) so yellow carpenter's  PVA just like you would use on any planking is commonly used.   Some prefer CA but in either case  shape the planks by spiling or via the method many successfully use as shown on the videos by Chuck Passaro, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM          PVA and a little finger pressure for 30 seconds works fine without clamps most of the time if the planks are pre-shaped properly.   What ship are you building?

 

Picture below of correct planking that has been tapered and incorrect planking.   Planks should all end at the rabbet, not come to a point short of the rabbet.  There are drop strakes and such, but even these never come to a point.

 

AND - Welcome to MSW.   Please post a little intro on the new members forum to let everyone know about yourself.

 

Cheers

 

Allan

Plankingcomparison.JPG.3bf350974950e1e61c4f12cd1a01c1b5.JPG

Plankingatthebow2.thumb.jpg.d6aae40dad63a1c10d3eb8507747e4d9.jpg

 

 

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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