Landlubber Mike Posted January 19 #31 Posted January 19 13 minutes ago, vossiewulf said: I recommend Iwata airbrushes. They're not cheap but my consistent experience with tools of all kinds is you get what you pay for. If you want a permanent solution to airbrushing issues, get an Iwata. I have an Iwata Eclipse CS as my workhorse airbrush with an Iwata compressor. Really great products. Old Collingwood, Canute and LED 3 Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: Hs129B-2 1/48 SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Akitsushima 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger CLC Annapolis Wherry Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)
Scott Crouse Posted January 19 #32 Posted January 19 1 hour ago, LED said: Also, I am serious about recommendations for an airbrush replacement. I enjoy the 350 when it works, but when it doesn't I want to throw it and the model against a brick wall... I have recently got a gaahleri to compliment my Badger 105 and have been very happy with it and it is much less in cost than the Iwata's and other high end brushes. But before you go down that road, I would be happy to discuss the problem to see if it is more about paint, thinner, bush cleaning or any of the other problems that could be causing it. I have been airbushing plastic models for over 5 years now. Feel free to dm me, or happy to discuss it in here (assuming you wish to). Canute, Old Collingwood and LED 3 --------------------------------- Current Builds Billings Boats Norden 603 Trumpeter R/N Fiume Upcoming Builds Completed Builds Billings Boats RCMP St Roch Model Shipways Norwegian Pram Midwest Models Lobster Smack Model Shipways Dory I stream my builds live, join me at https://www.twitch.tv/bartbandy
LED Posted January 19 Author #33 Posted January 19 33 minutes ago, Scott Crouse said: I have recently got a gaahleri to compliment my Badger 105 and have been very happy with it and it is much less in cost than the Iwata's and other high end brushes. But before you go down that road, I would be happy to discuss the problem to see if it is more about paint, thinner, bush cleaning or any of the other problems that could be causing it. I have been airbushing plastic models for over 5 years now. Feel free to dm me, or happy to discuss it in here (assuming you wish to). Thanks for the offer Scott. The problems may be about those issues you mentioned, but I have taken as much of the variance out of it that I can. My model shop has a great Vallejo Model Colors selection and a very good Vallejo Model Air selection so I'm kinda married to those paints. I am now using the Vallejo thinner and airbrush improver. I mix the Vallejo Model Color paints to about 50/50 with the thinner. Pretty religious about the cleaning. I may be too rough on the needle/nozzle though. The Badger I used 40 years ago was built of metal and could be dropped, stepped on, and strangled to within an inch of it's life - maybe this one is more fragile. I am going to go to a modeling workshop at the Hobby Shop later this month to see what I see. I'm starting to think, however, that the airbrush I have may actually have a defect in it. Anyway, I noticed your signature pointed to Twitch. I just followed you 😄. That might be a good way to connect. Canute and Old Collingwood 2
LED Posted January 19 Author #34 Posted January 19 Gonna start poking around on the Iwatas - they have quite a selection. Many thanks @Landlubber Mike and @vossiewulf Canute and Old Collingwood 2
LED Posted January 19 Author #35 Posted January 19 Love the doggie cam @Scott Crouse For those who want to watch him build real-time, here is his Twitch channel: https://www.twitch.tv/bartbandy Side view watching and listening to the most recent VOD. Kinda relaxing after coming close to tossing my stuff out the window 😄 Canute and Old Collingwood 2
Scott Crouse Posted January 19 #36 Posted January 19 58 minutes ago, LED said: Thanks for the offer Scott. The problems may be about those issues you mentioned, but I have taken as much of the variance out of it that I can. My model shop has a great Vallejo Model Colors selection and a very good Vallejo Model Air selection so I'm kinda married to those paints. I am now using the Vallejo thinner and airbrush improver. I mix the Vallejo Model Color paints to about 50/50 with the thinner. Pretty religious about the cleaning. I may be too rough on the needle/nozzle though. The Badger I used 40 years ago was built of metal and could be dropped, stepped on, and strangled to within an inch of it's life - maybe this one is more fragile. I am going to go to a modeling workshop at the Hobby Shop later this month to see what I see. I'm starting to think, however, that the airbrush I have may actually have a defect in it. Anyway, I noticed your signature pointed to Twitch. I just followed you 😄. That might be a good way to connect. lol, thanks for the follow and glad you like the stream haha. The doggy cam is new I have always found the Vallejo paints somewhat finicky but a 50/50 ratio with a pressure of around 15psi should be a good starting point. You might have a bent needle point as well but you said it was happening with 3 different ones... ya could be something not right there. Yesterdays stream was pretty boring just doing PE Old Collingwood and Canute 2 --------------------------------- Current Builds Billings Boats Norden 603 Trumpeter R/N Fiume Upcoming Builds Completed Builds Billings Boats RCMP St Roch Model Shipways Norwegian Pram Midwest Models Lobster Smack Model Shipways Dory I stream my builds live, join me at https://www.twitch.tv/bartbandy
LED Posted August 25 Author #37 Posted August 25 It's been a LONG time. Life happens. Not bad thangs, but... And, sometimes - sometimes for very long times - you just ain't got the modelling bug... And, then, It happens... This will be my first wood deck. David, of 'David's Ships' YouTube site has a GREAT presentation regarding the application of a wood deck. He covers a lot of territory. He discusses potential mistakes with lessons learned. The following video covers the wood deck installation for his wonderful HMS Hood build playlist: Wow, that's huge, whateva' So, my first photo in forever. The 1/350 ArtWox deck and the hull of the 1/350 Academy Admiral Graf Spee: I have to say that cutting the deck from the backing has been a breeze so far. ArtWox has done a great job to this point. Pray for me, this is a one way, one shot deal😔 king derelict, GrandpaPhil, Old Collingwood and 2 others 5
LED Posted August 25 Author #38 Posted August 25 I followed David's guidance to remove the unwanted wood and leave the actual overlay on the backing. He mentioned to save the remainder wood to the back of the overlay as potential repair material. The ArtWox deck was laser cut quite well - I had no problems with either the large pieces or the pieces I had to pick out: If there is a negative to this technique it is that it can become difficult to know if you have trimmed and picked what you needed. The wood you have placed on the back obviously blends into the wood you are working on. All in all, I think this will be a good idea. king derelict, yvesvidal, GrandpaPhil and 2 others 5
LED Posted September 19 Author #39 Posted September 19 (edited) Honestly, I have been pretty terrified of doing this. I mean, it is a One-And-Done process to apply a wood deck to a ship model. In the end, the ArtWox deck is extremely well built. It is strong enough to be manageable, the laser cutting was precise and defined enough to be stable, and the fit was absolutely perfect. Finally, it is not completely a One-Shot deal. Because of the stability of the product you actually can adjust it on placement. Just liked this photo better. Kinda looks like the start of a ship getting fitted out. Also, shows a bit of a problem. I was quite slick when I painted the hull. I lightened the color just a bit to present a bit of sun weathering. Now, I'm paying for that. I have to repaint a little of the hull and cannot get the color matched, so, I think I'll end up redoing the hull grey - hopefully, I'll get away with just doing that... Edited September 20 by LED Old Collingwood, ccoyle, Canute and 2 others 5
LED Posted September 23 Author #40 Posted September 23 Well, I thought I would have a nice entry with regards to placing the wood deck on the superstructure parts... However, (comma - and, there always is a comma) Those deck overlays are very complex with lots of very little pieces that have to be meticulously removed. Took lots of time for me... I noticed that the paint on those superstructure parts is less than ideal. I think my previous air-brush may have been abbey-normal, my current one seems to have a nice and even spray pattern. I hope this kit doesn't turn into a complete paint blob. We shall see. And, I like to work with natural light when painting and perhaps while placing the wood overlays. Thus, tonight I will mask the superstructure parts in prep for painting, tomorrow I'll paint, and then I'll give it a day to two to dry before applying the wood deck. All in all, coming along pretty good. I just wish I hadn't been so bull headed about my former air-brush. It is known to be a good one, but mine rarely gave me a good finish. I switched to an Iwata Eclipse because my model shop has all the little parts and accessories for it. It is a very nice and substantial brush. Much to like... Old Collingwood, king derelict and Canute 3
Burgundy Posted September 23 #41 Posted September 23 Coming along well! I have some experience with those ArtWox decks, they're really nice but the one-shot can certainly be frustrating if not lined up 100%. Canute, LED, Old Collingwood and 1 other 4 Current Build: US Brig Syren - Model Shipways Completed Builds: Polaris - OcCre Golden Hind - OcCre HMS Sherbourne - Vanguard Models
LED Posted September 25 Author #42 Posted September 25 Ok, had to put a nice, even coat of paint on the major superstructure elements and the walkways I am going to place on them this weekend. The Eclipse is a very nice airbrush. It lays a very balanced paint pattern in light coats. I'm thinking of applying a clear coat to the superstructure prior to applying the wood deck - will that matter??? Anyway, at least she looks like a ship now: Old Collingwood, Canute and yvesvidal 3
LED Posted September 26 Author #43 Posted September 26 (edited) Well, got the superstructure wood down. This weekend I'll be attaching the platforms. And, ugh... a bunch of PE. Pray for me. Building the catapults... I had a bit of repair on the bridge deck wood, it was a little too big and the center cross piece escaped me. The repair looks ok - I'm glad I saved the surrounding wood as I pulled the deck from the backing. Edited September 27 by LED Old Collingwood, yvesvidal and Canute 3
Winnie Posted October 2 #44 Posted October 2 I believe part of the problem is the paint you're using. I see Vallejo bottles, but no "model air". The Vallejo paint is formulated to brush painted and is quite thick. As for the model air by Vallejo, the thinning of the paint requires a bit of finesse to get it right, and you have to use their branded thinner AND flow improver! and the paint has to be very thin, and a reasonably low pressure (12-15 psi). The Vallejo type paints also require a primer underneath, or it tends to bead up. Hope that helps! Harald Old Collingwood, king derelict, LED and 1 other 4
LED Posted October 3 Author #45 Posted October 3 9 hours ago, Winnie said: I believe part of the problem is the paint you're using. I see Vallejo bottles, but no "model air". The Vallejo paint is formulated to brush painted and is quite thick. As for the model air by Vallejo, the thinning of the paint requires a bit of finesse to get it right, and you have to use their branded thinner AND flow improver! and the paint has to be very thin, and a reasonably low pressure (12-15 psi). The Vallejo type paints also require a primer underneath, or it tends to bead up. Hope that helps! Harald I'll try the Model Air on the next kit - which will likely be the 1:700 scale HMS Ajax. Keepin' with the theme 😄 The only issue is that I found a Model Color chart for naval ships in the various theaters of war: https://app.box.com/s/2hz3x8hp57kqk8qqyu40y0lndkdnc696 (I actually use an older version of this map that doesn't have as much color mixing) I have yet to find a similar color map for Model Air. Plus, my hobby shop only recently has started stocking lots of Model Air. I guess I'll have to use the Mark I Eyeball to do the color matching for me Old Collingwood and Canute 2
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