HMS Victory by Yabuhebi (Chris) - Caldercraft - 1:72

[Yabuhebi]

Based on reviewing the stern pics above, I had to dop some touching up, which I began. You don't see that from table top level, so I got a lower chair and began cleaning things up.

 

Using the blueprints, I measured from the various windows to try and layout where the channels would be. I used the pins on the back of the channel to mark the hull and then after drilling out the hole, the channels fit pretty good.

 

All 5 went fairly smoothly and from my view seemed to follow the plans.

 

After doing  this, I did some research to see which gunport lids I needed to do before installing the channels, so I wouldn't run into a fight later. I wish the instructions included a specific diagram of which gunports get lids, there is a picture of the side hull to help in laying out the wales that I used.

 

There is also no reference in the instructions as to which lids go to which gunports. However, the parts list does:

323 - lower gun ports

324 - middle & upper gun ports

325 - quarterdeck gun ports (the 4 near the stern....with one double door port in between them)

326 - quarterdeck half door gun ports

327 - beakhead gun ports

 

I wish they had included this in instructions, really not sure why that isn't the fact.

 

The same can be said about which hinges go where...very little reference in the instructions, but the parts list does (I wish I'd look at this earlier before working on the lids!)

 

484 - lower gun port hinges

485 - middle & upper gun port hinges

486 - middle gun port double door hinges

487 - quarterdeck hinges

488 - quarterdeck double door hinges

489 - lower stern double door hinges

490 - beakhead gun port hinges

491 - lower gun SCUTTLE hinges

492 - beakhead door hinges

 

Well, there it is!

 

After looking at various pictures and then marking the plans, I set aside the gun ports that will need lids before installing the channels. I believe there are 7 full size gun ports, 3 smaller gun ports, 2 that need lids and 1 a double door (I think this was done so that the shrouds wouldn't interfere with the lid).

 

I cut out the lids and then laid out the additional wale that would be needed for each on. Once done, I sanded them clean and began installing the hinges. Having not laid out which hinges were what, I used the instructions and counted rivets to guess which ones were correct, I am not sure I picked right, but 484 & 485 look the same.

 

I created a simple jig with a piece of wood 1mm out so that I could stick the lid under it to create the 1mm spacing needed for proper placement of the lid into the gun port recess. Once done, I bent the hinge around the wales. Once that was done, I needed to add the hole in the lid to accept the eyelet.

 

I don't have enough small drill bits and they are just not sturdy enough to drill though the hinge and wood (especially if they were glued!)

 

What I did was use the back end of a small bit that had broke to mark where the hole was, then use a little bigger bit to drill the hole for the eyelets. I would add the eyelet to the hinge, glue the back of that and attach to the lid. It took some finagling to get that to work (3 hands would be better)

 

For the lower eyelets, I wasn't sure how to tackle them. I didn't want to drill holes up from the bottom, they would show on the top. At first I cut the heads off of the eyelets, but then they come out kind of oval shaped. I then tried to make ringlets with some .55mm wire, they may be a bit too large, but they will do fine. I just glued them to the underside. Some came loose and I'll circle back around to make sure they are all in place.

 

Once done, I began laying coats of black on these lids, ALL of the rigols, ALL of the chainplate assemblies and ALL of the channel supports. 

 

While waiting for all that to dry and add additional coats, I laid out the other side channels. My biggest concern was making sure that I put these ones in the same place and as close in height as the other side. Mainly so that when looking at the boat, the shrouds synced together and deadeyes matched.

 

I think and hope I did that!

 

 

Edited November 27 by Yabuhebi

[Yabuhebi]

Continued working on the small number of gun ports and chainplates too!

 

Finished painting the backsides of the gun port lids with a few minor touch ups to cleanup the over paint. I also saw other builders use brass tubing with a .225ID to act as sleeves for the lid ropes. This brass tubing (which I bought at our local model shop), is very thin and can be cut very easily by rolling it under a sharp exacto knife.

I cut enough for the 9 lids and installed them. I tried to see if I could fish the .25 thread through them and they seemed ok. So I did the holes for the 9 on the other side plus the 2 stern vent lids.

I also began assembling the lids for the other side and my thought was that I would install the brass sleeves while waiting for things to dry. My plan was to string the sleeves and then glue them into the hull, once done, I would tied them off to the lids after they were fastened.

I couldn't get the threads through the tubing. Despite being careful, the knife had the effect of closing off the inside too much. I didn't have anything in my work area that would open up these holes....nothing small enough or strong enough to act as a flair. I found that only about 2 out of 10 were ok...In the end, I just decided to fish the string into the holes and use CA glue to secure them. A dab of paint will hide them or at least create the impression of a sleeve at that scale.

I created a jig to lay out the lid rope holes, taking some regular masking tape, I just drilled 2 holes about 6mm above top of port opening (per instructions) and used this to drill all the holes the same. There were 1 or 2 lids that required the holes to be lower, so I did them freehand.

On the other side where I had already installed the sleeves, I just pulled them out. A few worked and I left them in....

I then installed the lids and for the most part they seemed to go in ok. I didn't quite get them all to match height wise and I will have to make sure I am better at that going forward. The one that is way too high was removed so that I will be able to add the chainplates, then I'll reattach it.

Each of the large channels have channel support brackets (#626), I painted these on the sprue and they fit under the channels with little altering. I tried to follow blueprints as best as I could in their positioning, but they are really contingent on where you place the channels.

I was nervous about the chainplates, but they go fine after some learning. The blueprints give you the basics of where then go and how they are orientated. I cut them off the sprue one at a time, trimmed them and dry fitted them. On the first one (the most forward chainplate), the main chain is threaded into the strop that protrudes under the channel. From this one, you hang the next chain that has a ring at the end...for longer ones, there is another piece that is double nailed to the hull, for the shorter ones, the second chain is nailed to the hull.

As the instructions state, snap the top chain together and add some CA glue (be sure to wipe it clean so there are no globs).

On the first one, my initial mistake was creating the pilot hole for the first nail. I had it too low and when I tried to drive in the nail, it created TOO MUCH stress on the chainplate (in fact, you can see that it has separated if you look carefully). The result is that the first one is off from the others.

After that, I would press the bottom of the chain against the hull and then create a small divot/pilot hole mark to drill out. Once done, I would add the lower/3rd chain and mark that hole. Once that was done, I would glue the structure in place.

While my channels may be off a bit from the blueprints, once I had a process, it went fairly easily. Not very fast, but with little or no difficulties. The last chainplate on the forward channel is a bit off from where it is supposed to be, but after being touched up, they look pretty good!!!! They will DEFINATELY hold the mast steady when the shrouds are put into place and tightened. Very impressive.

Chris

[Yabuhebi]

Took a few hours to see if I could try and get one side done. Was determined.

It's actually a pretty steady process. My only issue was that my channels may not have been placed in exactly the right position and this caused some issues with chainplate positioning.

May not have been?....no, they weren't!

In retrospect, it may have been a better idea to attach the front and back chainplates to the channels before laying them out and then trying to lay them out per the blue prints. I think you could do that before adding pins to the back of the channels, perhaps tape them up and seeing if the chainplates fall where they should...if the two outside ones fit properly, they the inside one should fall into place.

I didn't do that and had some issues with the stern channels, but overall, I think they look great.

Especially when the pic is from far away! Just beautiful...lol

I also took a pic through the entrance...yep, I can still see the other entrance!

[Yabuhebi]

Worked on getting everything for the port side ready. Painting lids, making sure bottoms of channels are clear for chainplates, etc.

I also added all of the copper eyelets on deck and the small cleats to the stern.

While doing this, I created the 2 railings for the bow gratings. I was able to add copper eyelets and then bend the .7mm wire to fit. After, I decided to see how difficult it's going to be to add the netting here and ultimately for the mattress hammocks.

I had bought some peachy colored tulle online, but decided it was a bit too orange. This stuff is synthetic, so it won't color and I could not for the life of me find anything that was cotton. Except one place sold it in $60 batches of mosquito netting. Nope.

I found the same tulle in ivory for $9USD and bought that. So if you have kids and need some, I'll have extra!!!!

Now this was just a test and I am going to redo. I had a huge spool of thread from Guterman, but it frays on the end VERY QUICKLY. I think it's too thin and I'll redo with the .1mm in the kit.

I also didn't secure the railing as I did it and I'll make a better, more stable rig for that. I wanted to practice or see what kind of knot would work best and I have a better idea now.

After it was done, I trimmed it and gave it a coat of very watered down white glue...had to wipe it off to be sure it didn't clog holes.

I think if I do it right and take my time, it will look pretty good. The hope of the desperate and foolish!!!!

[PUNISHERMARKO]

Hey Chris, really nice job. I am looking forward to see your progress 🙂
Your netting reminded of what I've done. But I am pretty sure I took idea either from your build log earlier on or someone else's, I can't remember.
But, I got tulle fabric and tried how it looks and if it's easy to work with. I then stitched it and put 100% cotton inside. I tried to roll them up and then fold them like on real ship, but that didn't look good, so just roll them up tightly. Maybe sides I'll do different.
That's all finished now and yesterday I started on page 27 forecastle canons. I also skipped few pages [ very last page 😄] and put pins in around the waist deck and pulled thread through just to finish the waist deck ladders. Just have to be careful not to damage them.
When I was doing copper plating I decided to skip few pages and do rudder at the same time and attach it. Getting there slowly. Would like to finish 1st book by end of the year, but I don't think that's possible. 

[Yabuhebi]

 

 

On 11/30/2024 at 4:07 AM, PUNISHERMARKO said:

Hey Chris, really nice job. I am looking forward to see your progress 🙂
Your netting reminded of what I've done. But I am pretty sure I took idea either from your build log earlier on or someone else's, I can't remember.
But, I got tulle fabric and tried how it looks and if it's easy to work with. I then stitched it and put 100% cotton inside. I tried to roll them up and then fold them like on real ship, but that didn't look good, so just roll them up tightly. Maybe sides I'll do different.
That's all finished now and yesterday I started on page 27 forecastle canons. I also skipped few pages [ very last page 😄] and put pins in around the waist deck and pulled thread through just to finish the waist deck ladders. Just have to be careful not to damage them.
When I was doing copper plating I decided to skip few pages and do rudder at the same time and attach it. Getting there slowly. Would like to finish 1st book by end of the year, but I don't think that's possible. 

 

 

It looks fine, have to remember that once you get into the rigging a lot of the deck detail is getting to get overwhelmingly lost! Or at least that's my hope. I figure I'll have to trim the tops of my tulle once I get it in place. I did see some builders that glued the tops to clean that up.

 

I also, off camera, took a stab at weaving a line through the very top of the tulle. I thought this might create a better structure when I go to attach the whole thing to a hammock or railing. It didn't work very good, I started too high up and it just looked like crap and some of the tulle broke. I think if I go lower it may work. I'll circle back around in awhile and try again.

 

I think a lot of builders skip around and that may be a wiser move. I'm going to post, but it is clear that I screwed up with my channels and it has become apparent when installing the profiles (...and to a lesser extent, the chainplates). 

 

I just started gathering pieces for the rudder and find that I am missing all of the rudder hinges/hinge pins. It's a pain but won't be the end of the world, the rudder isn't going to move, so I guess I'll just create some wooden blocks to give the right spacing since the PE rudder straps look like they will cover the hinge pins anyways.

 

The missing parts are kind of a pain in the ***. My kit was put together while JoTika was trying to catch up on back orders. I was asked if I was ok receiving the kit in a plain brown box. That was fine, but right away I noticed I was missing one of the 12.7mm dowels for a mast. I was also missing an entire sheet of walnut pieces. Later I found that I was missing belaying pins and more. With the exception of the walnut pieces, I've outsourced or jury rigged what I've needed. Is what it is I guess!!!!

 

 

....If you're working on the hammocks, there isn't much more left in the first book!

 

[Yabuhebi]

Worked on the port channels and chainplates. I really worked to make sure these channels lined up with the ones on the starboard side and I thought everything was good. In the end, my channels are both too low and a bit skewed to far forward or backward.

 

This is more apparent on the port side and I had to incorrectly position some of the chainplates to get them all in. I almost thought about leaving some of the deadeyes without chainplates rather than what I did. I suppose there is no right way.

 

In the end, it still looks cool, it'll just never win any 1st place ribbons at the builder shows!

[Yabuhebi]

After that, I began putting together some of the other little things before finishing book one.

 

Honestly, I haven't finished rigging the cannons and I keep putting them off. These will be visible and I really want them to look good, too chicken I guess!

 

The anchors went together fine. They require some sanding of the anchor stocks (wood parts) to get them to fit and some sanding of the cast parts to remove the casting marks. The flukes need to be sanded to fit. The directions call for using cartridge paper for iron bands. Not sure what that is. I used 2mm stryrene and that works fine, but you have to be careful. The styrene will break at the joints if pressed too hard...which will require some sanding and filling. I did see a few builders use shrink wrap. That is a great idea and I have tons of different sizes that would work great...but it's all on my boat in winter storage. If you're in the US, Harbor Freight has a box for $9 or $10 with various sizes that would work great. Just cut to the right width and apply some quick heat to get it to stick. DON'T get the shrink wrap with adhesive, I think that would cause a mess. 

 

I was also getting ready to do the profiles. Plan #5 provides the layout for the 3 different profiles on the hull. It also shows where the moulding swirls go (#'s 408-411). However, there is absolutely no reference in any of the instructions as to these parts, just in the parts page. That seems strange.

 

Either way, I thought I'd add some extra detail to them. I have 2 different sizes of wires, plus brass tubing that I had for the lid ropes that I wasn't going to use. For the smaller swirls, I bent a larger diameter wire into the center and the smaller diameter around the outside. Both pieces fitting into the "G" shaped recess in the swirl. For the larger swirl, I used the brass tubing and the larger brass wire.

 

It adds some detail, not sure how it will look after it's painted. I dropped one and spend 20 minutes looking for it. I found it the next day when I was looking for something else. Go figure.

 

Then as I was working on the profiles, I dropped the whole darn cup of swirls on the floor. Lost 3 of them!!! Just can't win. I made 3 from scratch and they seem to have come out ok....

[Yabuhebi]

Today I worked on the starboard side profiles. This was AFTER installing the channels and their chainplates.

 

This is a mistake. DO NOT do this. Put the profiles for both side on the hull FIRST. Then you can get them right, make them look good and get them painted according to the scheme of your build. If you wait, you'll have nothing but trouble trying to get them painted behind the chainplates and channels.

 

So I worked on the profiles. Having a band saw and a disc/belt sander made it much quicker than using hand tools. But it is apparent that my placement of the channels are wrong and some of the profiles either wouldn't fit or would have to be moved. I did that for the highest profile in the stern...you can see that I have to angle it sharply down to get it back in line. 

 

This change ripples all the way to the bow and the profile is supposed to run into the support of the cathead. It doesn't on this side, I created a little roundel to end it. What else can I do?

 

Because removing the channels and chainplates isn't an option!

 

So onward and upward.

 

I posted a notice on my log when I started working on the channels to warn anyone using this blog to help them in their build to do the profiles first....

 

 

[Charter33]

I'm impressed with your rate of progress Chris, and the effort you put in to successfully overcoming those challenging issues this kit confronts us builders with. One small comment if I may..... you might want to turn the anchor stocks through 90 degrees before painting them. 

Cheers,

Graham

[PUNISHERMARKO]

Few things I would like point out. Missing items are not normal, so like you said Chris it's backorder and they missed it, but they said they would send any missing parts for free. If you want kit with missing items just buy anything from Occre. Endless missing items in every single kit and it took over 2 weeks to get anything [ from Portugal to UK ] 
I live about 2 hours from their warehouse and I used 1x16mm walnut on wrong place and because of that I didn't have enough for where I was supposed to use it. I called them in a morning, they send me 2 metres of 1x16mm and received it next day cost me £2, but this was my fault.

I am already planning to buy second HMS Victory from caldercraft around April/May 2025.

And like Graham said your anchors are assembled wrong.

[PUNISHERMARKO]

I forgot to mention, I know you said your rudder doesn't turn because you missing parts?
My one turns 45 degrees to left/right.
And again, out of all models I built, I am gonna say this was the best and most simplest hinges system I've seen. it's simple yet it works perfectly.

[Yabuhebi]

On 12/2/2024 at 8:13 AM, PUNISHERMARKO said:

Few things I would like point out. Missing items are not normal, so like you said Chris it's backorder and they missed it, but they said they would send any missing parts for free. If you want kit with missing items just buy anything from Occre. Endless missing items in every single kit and it took over 2 weeks to get anything [ from Portugal to UK ] 
I live about 2 hours from their warehouse and I used 1x16mm walnut on wrong place and because of that I didn't have enough for where I was supposed to use it. I called them in a morning, they send me 2 metres of 1x16mm and received it next day cost me £2, but this was my fault.

I am already planning to buy second HMS Victory from caldercraft around April/May 2025.

And like Graham said your anchors are assembled wrong.

 

 

Well, I found the rudder hinges! I guess I must have put them in a safe spot!!!

 

As for the anchors...I didn't understand what either of you meant....then I looked at the directions.

OH NO!!!!!

 

As a sailor, I should know better! Although we don't use these old 'fisherman'  or admiralty style anchors, I have one in my garage!

 

Hopefully, I'll be able to pull the cast anchor part through the stock and reassemble! We shall see!!!!!

[Yabuhebi]

Finished all of the profile based on what I could actually place based on my  positioning of the channels and chainplates.

 

After painting and touching up, the hull exterior is close to finished per the instructions. I've added the anchor palms and have begun working on the rudder.

[Yabuhebi]

Work on the cannon rigging is just a slog.

 

I need to fully rig 4 regular cannons, 2 long barreled cannons and the 2 carronades. 

I have added breeching lines to all eight and am trying to get the tackle rigging right. So far, so bad!

 

I do have to some some 'light' rigging to the 2 cannons under the stairs from the poop deck.

 

I did paint the anchors and once I'm done here, I'm going downstairs to see if I can push the anchors through the stocks and reposition them!

 

Working on the rudder, I was able to add copper plates and low and behold I found the rudder hinge/ rudder pins! I've add the pins and will see how difficult it's going to be to add the mates on the actual hull!

[Yabuhebi]

Finally, I worked on the netting for the bow. 

This was a little easier once I created a jib to keep things steady.

 

I was able to pin the railings to a piece of Styrofoam and then add clothespins to the bottom of the tulle to keep it taut. 

 

Using a needle, I just created a looped stitch along the rail. I folded over a bit of the tulle and trimmed that once I was done.

 

Once it was done, they went up pretty easily and weren't twisted, frayed or sloppy.

 

I wish the hammock assemblies could be done the same way!! I suppose I'll begin those shortly and anticipate some trial and error.

[Yabuhebi]

Welp, fixing the anchors wasn't easy or actually even possible. I used white glue to attach the stocks together, but I must have used a dab of CA glue to hold the anchor itself.

 

They wouldn't budge and the cast is very soft so I couldn't try a more aggressive brute force tactic.

 

In the end, I had to cut them off and reglue them. I guess that's brutal!

 

Hopefully, they won't give me issues when I go to attach them. I am thinking ahead about the puddening of the anchor ring.

I was thinking that I could use the same method used for seizing the shrouds. Maybe just start at one end of a wire and seize it as long as the diameter required for the ring. Glue the ends to keep things tight, then create the ring, attach to end of anchor with glue and then add the additional tan decorative bands.

 

Just a thought.

 

Began working on the rudder attachment too. Have the hinges in place and will add the copper straps next.

I did have to cut the pins on the other hinges, it was much easier to attach the whole rudder and I will ultimately use CA glue to finalize it.

The rudder is just sitting there in this pic.

 

[Yabuhebi]

Pugging on!

 

My idea of 'seizing' the brass wire before turning it into a ring actually worked...after some failures.

Tying one end, I was able to easily and quickly twist the tube while rolling the string around it. Every 5 or 6 turns I would put a dab of CA glue on it to keep the work I did set.

 

The problem was trying to bend it after! The instructions call for a 15.5mm diameter ring...which is about a 47.1mm circumference, or length of brass.

That is pretty short and VERY hard to bend. Even using some pliers, I ended up ruining the puddening on the ends.

 

Annealing the 4 pieces made them very easy to bend. I have a little mini butane torch and ceramic pad (you can see in one of the pics) and the process goes fast. I quenched the pieces and that did the trick. (you don't have to quench them, but it makes it easy to get back to work quickly)

 

Once done, I used a pair of round nose pliers (for making jewelry) and was able to bend them around a fat sharpy pen and then attach to anchor stocks. After the first one, I left about a 1mm bare on each end to facilitate their attachment. After that, I added a bit of black line to cover those bare spots.

 

Putting the tan decorative line on the 3 'corners' went fine. Although while doing this, it is apparent to me that adding the black line while the tubing was straight was far easier than what I would have encountered had I tried to add the black line to a ring...which would have required actually 'sewing' the line on.

 

A barrel of anchors....sorry, couldn't resist.

 

For me though, the tan line was fairly dark as the CA glue does stain the line. I didn't like that, so I painted them white. Perhaps I could have added some black to dull down the white a bit, but in the end, it adds a nice contrast and I'm fine with it.

 

I also added the PE hinge straps to the rudder and hull. Once again, the directions just say to attach or secure the straps. There is nothing of detail there or on any of the many blue prints. However, the parts manual lists where each one goes and made it easy to make sure I did it correctly...given my propensity to not read ahead or follow simple instructions!

 

I also noticed that my waterline is a bit higher than it should be at the stern. Nothing I can do about that, but it seems that more of the rudder and the spectacle plate (the little PE piece that will hold the anchor chain for back up steering) should be black.

 

The rudder doesn't quite fit tightly to the hull at the bottom, but will pass casual observations. I did add a piece of copper plating to very bottom between the hull keel and the bottom of the rudder to help keep it in place in case it's bumped.

 

Also continued to work on the tackle rigging! Practice makes almost, close to getting there!

I have 4 down and 4 to go, then I still have to make and install the...'reset' tackle that pull the cannons away from the gun ports. So not even part way there. I also ran out of rounded pin nails, there is a hobby shop up the street that may sell these .6mmx10mm pins, we shall see!

 

 

Edited December 6 by Yabuhebi

[Yabuhebi]

Began working on the bowsprit, because I am still delaying the rigging of the last cannons and starting on the hammocks.

 

The instructions and the blueprints are a bit underwhelming when it comes to the building of the masts and yards. Perhaps if you've worked either on a Caldercraft model in the past or work on other square sailed ships, it will be more apparent. As my first, there is a lot of nomenclature that has to be learned.

 

Thankfully, there are some great builder logs here that I have been studying relentlessly!!!!

 

I started on the bowsprit. The first step is to create the cap (#69). You have to taper the ends and then add a square and round hole to fit both the end of the bowsprit (main mast so to speak) and the jib boom which runs through the cap out forward of the ship.

 

I tapered the ends using my disc/belt sander. Getting the exact points to drill the holes was a matter of lining up the cap with the diagrams (which are to scale). I was a bit too far to port when I finished, but shouldn't cause any issues. Drilling the hole at the same angle required the use of a bench vise, I aligned the drill bit parallel to the edge of the cap. I was able to drill the hole at the right angle and then use a rounded file to clean it up.

 

Doing the square hole was harder. I tried to drill 4 holes which I thought I would then cut out and file square. The problem I encountered was I used a small drill bit size and because of the angle of the wood I was drilling into, the bit tended to slide down the slope I had created.

 

I was able to drill 2 holes, but made this work. 

 

The next step was creating the square notch at the end of the bowsprit. Since this was my first attempt, I wasn't 100% sure what tactic to try.

In the end, used a mini Japanese saw to cut small notches in the dowel. Then I used a sharp exacto knife to whittle down to a square. I also used a file to help square up my work. After creating the square peg, I tapered back the end to create an angle to fit into the cap.

 

As you can see, I am a bit too far over.

 

The next step was very confusing concerning the installation of the bees. Going through my books helped immensely. Again, I wish the instructions would include some better pictures of what they are talking about. The blueprints are fine, but they include all of the parts and they can become cluttered.

 

So you need to shave off material on the top of the bowsprit so that the flat bee (#415) fits flush on top. It as 2 notches, the starboard one is up front, the port one is about mid way. You have to then shave off material on both sides so that you can fit the bee sheaves (417, 418). These little pieces simulate a sheave which you could probably make real with aftermarket pieces. I didn't have sheaves that big, so I left them.

 

The starboard bee sheave fits tight to the cap. You would glue the cap, the flat bee on top and the 2 bee sheaves on each side.

Once attached, there are 2 pieces (416) simply called bees. These create little wings on top. 

 

Glue all this together and if needed, apply some wood putty to smooth it all out. Be sure to clear the 2 holes for the sheaves, the books say the forestays will go through the holes.

 

Once done with that, you have to add 3 rows of stop cleats. I believe each row has five 1.5x1.5mm walnut pieces about 2mm long. I cut them out and glued them as close to what the plan requires as I could. Once set, I used a round file to create the unique shape you see....just filing the bottom until they became rounded.

 

There are two other pieces that need to be installed and then I used 2mm styrene to create the bands. 

 

The next step was creating the gammoning stops lower on the bowsprit.

 

I cut little pieces of 1.5x1.5mm walnut and glued them onto the bowsprit. Using the plans I tried to get the angles correct. Honestly, I laid the bowsprit on the plans and tried to mark off where the stops should be. The pic in this post was my first attempt. I laid down white glue and then placed the walnut pieces on the dowel and tried to create the angle.

 

Creating the jib boom and flying jib boom required tapering and creating some 6 sided ends. I didn't do a very good job of this, they look like crap, but I think once they are painted, they'll clean up.

 

You also need 2 of the cast pieces to create the bracket to hold the flying jib boom to the jib boom. I was able to CA glue them and they seem to fit good. I tried to fit them together to see how it looks. I'll so some sanding and give the paint a shot at making it look good!

 

I then started on the fore mast. You have to create an 8mm square peg to one end with a smaller 6mm peg at the very end.

Doing the math, there would be 4.7mm of excess material that has to be cut away to create the 8mm center...or about 2.35mm on each end.

So I created the square on the end of the dowel and drew 4 lines to create a template to cut away. I then cut down about 1.5mm all around the dowel and using an exacto knife, I began cutting and/or shaving down. When I got close, I used a file to square things up. Cutting away was easy, but I did have to cut towards myself and I was very careful doing this, too many accidents when wood stops grabbing at the wrong time and the blade takes its own path....right into your hand.

 

When all was said and done, I think I got the squared off end pretty close to 8mm and then the little 6mm piece went pretty quickly.

 

After that, I had to create the flat sides for the cheeks (#343). I stopped after this, because the instructions require some banding under and over the cheeks. I wasn't sure if I needed to file space under the cheeks to fit the bands or allow then cheeks to have 'daylight' under them.

 

Also, there is another piece on the front of the mast, that isn't covered in this part of the instructions and there are a number of bands that once again, go above and below it. It's the rubbing paunch and is mentioned later on...can't wait!

 

So, tomorrow, I'll plod on! 

[Yabuhebi]

Started painting the bowsprit and also continued working on the foremast. The directions are very specific, but I think they require an advance understanding of how model ship masts are created. I don't have that experience and while most of the parts are laid out in various areas of the build, they are not intuitive.

 

In addition, many builds kind of gloss over the creation of the 3 masts, focusing on the end results. That makes it hard to understand or see behind the scenes. Using Longridge's book has helped and there are a few blogs that provide some detail.

 

First, the pics and results you're going to see are indicative of a very inexperienced builder, but after getting to the finish of the foremast build up, I can see the logic and beauty of what they are trying to do. I am going to try and lay that out here for prospective new builders who will be in the same quagmire as me!!!

 

The first and biggest hurdle is the installation of the metal banding that keeps the mast in one piece. I believe the real mast is a set of long square/rectangle beams that are put together in various fashions (dowels, tenons, etc) and held together with these bands.

 

The directions call for the use of provide cartridge paper. I'm not sure if I received that and I assume in the USA, they are talking about construction paper? As others have done, I used styrene, 2mm wide strips. They suck and the hobby shop near me doesn't have any copper or brass strips close to that.

 

This stuff breaks all the time, the glue will stick INSTANTLY to my fingers but NEVER to the damn mast. NEVER NEVER NEVER!!!!!

 

My first attempt at creating the cheeks went ok. I now have a better, smaller plane to help shape areas for the future (it worked better when doing the main mast).  However, before putting the cheeks in place, you have to add bands that the cheeks will sit on top of.

 

There is nothing mentioned about how this works. Do you have to file down spaces on the undersides of the cheeks to accommodate the bands? I didn't see that anywhere. There aren't a lot of clean pics of the live ship to help and none of the 3 books really dive into this.

 

I think that looking through Robert29's build it appears that he filled in the voids between the cheeks and bands and the paunch and the bands. That is what I did.

 

You have to really be careful attaching the bands, since this is a dowel, it can be hard to make sure the bandings are ...horizontal to the deck?....straight. You can see that some of mine tend to wander....who I am kidding! They all wander.  I place the first round of bands that go under the cheeks and then installed the cheeks to each side.

 

After that, there are bands that go around the outside of the cheeks, I opted to cut these so that the open ends would be behind the rubbing paunch on the front of the mast. As you can see above, I added wood putty to the cheek voids and then the paunch voids. 

 

Using small sanding sticks, I was able to remove as much as I could before painting.

 

One note: The plans call for banding down to the bottom of the mast. However, you need to add the pike rack and this WILL NOT fit over the banding. So don't add the 2 lower bands until you've added the pike base and top first. Then add your bands before finally adding the pikes.

 

While that was drying, I worked on the 2 platforms. The first is the main, larger one (#345, 346). These go together fine. The other is the cross tree/trestletree. 

 

Once you make the platform, you have to add 1.5x1.5mm strips to create the battens. It's strange that this is on top, forcing sailors to have to navigate this while up there, especially in any type of moving seas, where movement up high would be amplified. I suppose there's a reason!

 

I laid the platform over the plans to get a feel for where the battens go. Some folks have traced the locations on tracing paper and transferred them. Whatever will work!

 

The plans also mention the addition of bolsters to both platforms, these are 3x3 or 4x4 pieces of walnut that need to be shaped into quarter round pieces. I was able to use tweezers or small clamps to hold the small pieces and use a file to shape the quarter round.

 

You can see where they need to be placed:

 

 

While working on this, I was also working on the next higher mast or Fore Topmast. 

At this point, I was still unsure of how it all went together.

 

Creating the 8 sided shapes is hard. I have experience and am good at drawing lines on wood that need to be cut, just holding a pencil and dragging it along a straight edge. That seems to be the way here, but a dowel isn't really straight and if you're not careful, you will drift as you draw.

 

I tried placing the end of the dowel over the plans and marking the corners of the octagon at the bottom and then trying to draw lines down. I did my best, the next step was creating a small octagon that is off set from the larger one. 

 

I wasn't sure why, but here is how it will all fit!

This platform will slide down the lower past square and rest on the bibs. You must push the platform all the way forward.

The rectangle foremast cap (#66) fits on the lower mast (the square hole) and facing forward has a round hole where the fore topmast will slide into.

 

I don't have the blueprints with me and will edit this if I have to, but I believe that when you install the whole mast, you need to drill a hole into the lower end of the topmast so that it rests correctly on the platform.

 

There is also a hand mast (#149) that will be placed on the back of the mast to sit on the platform and under the cap. This creates strength to the mast as the stays pull on the mast and keeps it from bending or raking back....just some sailing fyi.

 

I lost my hand mast. As I have been cutting away pieces from the sprue, poor old #149 must have gotten separated. I am sure it's in the box, but I can't find it. It was easy enough to create a new one from scrap.

 

 

The topgallant mast will fit through the top mast cap (#88) and the base of the t'gallent mast with a fid will rest on these cross trees.

 

I added the bolsters before all this, but the directions say to glue the bolsters after you've installed all 3 parts of the mast.

 

Before adding the top and t'gallant masts, you'll need to add banding to the lower mast square tops and then add 0.5x1.5 strips to the 4 corners...can't do that until the lower mast is in place. The blue prints also require jeer block strop cleats on all 3 lower masts squared sections...but they state it as part #133, it is #144. 

 

Another vague part issue are the foremast saddles (#348 &349). It references plan #10 but that too is vague. The directions have these terrible 'squared off' pictures of the various platforms with an isometric view.  Especially the pic of the cap block.

 

However, I saw on one of the other blueprints a side view of the cap and you can see that you need to glue the pieces so that 2 of the smaller saddles are sandwiched in between 3 of the larger ones....so 348/349/348/349/349/348 or L/S/L/S/L

 

I think that the process would be to put all of this together, keeping an eye on everything being plum to the deck.

 

After, you would then go after adding the various deadeyes and blocks.

 

I opted to add all of the blocks that I can see as of right now before.

The deadeyes went much easier than the channel deadeyes. Making the various blocks was ok. I could have done a better job of trimming the excess string off the tops of the blocks and will work on that.

 

I don't like that most of the single and double blocks are attached to the platforms with eyelets. I don't like that they stick through the platform decking. 

You can see the pin holes, not happy.

 

Once done, I began painting it all. I have opted to paint the blocks and deadeyes instead of leaving them either natural or stained. I may have to run a drill bit through them, but using the airbrush on the channels, I didn't have any issues with those deadeyes.

 

Just some pics of painting, these are only the 1st or 2nd coats of thinned paint, but it's starting to lay down....

 

 

 

[Yabuhebi]

While painting all of the pieces of the foremast, I started working on the main mast. 

 

I was so happy...I had the lower main on my drill and was sanding it down to specs. Then I laid out the square and shaved and filed that into place.

 

The main plans that I used to get the proper lengths for the mast were pretty clear and I was excited....NO BANDING!!!

 

Oh sure, there was banding shown on the fore mast. But NOT A ONE on the main or mizzen. Ok!

 

The directions are just as vague...just build the main like you did the fore!

 

So I get it all tapered and got the 8mm square in place and then the smaller 6mm square. Then I filed down the sides for the cheeks.

 

Then the unthinkable! 

 

Instead of just using plan #6, I decided to check out #9, which is solely for the main mast.

 

Sigh, there is banding! After I had installed the cheeks AND the rubbing paunch. 

 

I took off the paunch (or broke it actually) but I didn't want to risk that with the cheeks.

 

I added the outer banding around the cheeks, with many breaking and making a mess. I ran out of styrene, so I bought more and also bought some thinner strips that I used to fake the banding that was supposed to go 'under' the cheeks. 

 

After, I added wood putty and tomorrow I will sand it clean and see how it looks.

 

I just don't understand why they took the time to add banding to the foremast on plan #6, but then decided to leave it out for the rest. What can I say!

 

I will work on cleaning up my messes tomorrow and keep you posted!

 

Thank you for all the likes, the comments of support and encouragement and most of all, providing me a place to spend some time each day talking about what I've done. VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!

 

Chris

[Yabuhebi]

OH!!!!

 

One more thing, I had ordered some very cheap $9USD polyester tulle from Amazon and I have installed it on the bow and began working on the poop barricade hammocks last week. But I just hate it. The poly is so sticky and while it looks good, it's going to be a bear doing the rest. 

 

But I found some cotton lace. I know the shape isn't quite up to snuff, but I think...hope, it'll be easier to work with!

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M060A0P?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

It was $15USD for a yard, enough to do 10 Victory's!!!!

 

I could even stain it, I think! Just the feel of it is nicer. 

 

It doesn't quite have the right pattern as others, but I think it'll be great!

Chris