Devin Collins 1899 by Ferrus Manus - 1/18 - Devonshire Sloop-rigged pilot cutter

[Ferrus Manus]

Welcome to this build log. 

 

If you're wondering what happened to the Queen Elizabeth galleon, I have postponed that build in order to do this. This will be a scratchbuild made mostly of wood, and I already have some comprehensive full-scale plans made. 

Remember Don, the man referenced in my Senora Fielden research log? Well, this is for him and his wife. Both are good friends of mine, and Don has seen the designs. My main goal in posting this log considerably before I plan on making sawdust is that I want to iron out some of the questions in procedure and perhaps design. 

This is the original prototype of the cutter build. While the arrangement of the deck will be considerably different, the hull shape and rig are functionally the same. The final length of the ship (bowsprit to spanker) will be around 3 feet, while the height is somewhere around 4 feet. The rig is subject to change. 

 

These are the plans as they are: 

Edited Tuesday at 11:17 PM by Ferrus Manus

[Ferrus Manus]

@Louie da fly @Wawona59 @Knocklouder @Isaiah

 

I saved you guys seats, popcorn and drinks are free. 

[Louie da fly]

Nice looking build. I love these spectacularly rigged yachts from back in the day.

 

What was the cutter used for?

 

Steven

[Knocklouder]

Good luck with this build.  

[Isaiah]

I’m sure I’ll learn a thing or two. 

 
Is this your first wooden model? 

Edited Thursday at 04:37 AM by Isaiah

[Ferrus Manus]

11 hours ago, Louie da fly said:

What was the cutter used for

This would have been a pilot cutter, a ship that would have needed a large sail area for the displacement, and would have been relatively small and compact. However, this vessel is not based on any particular design of ship, the reasoning of which we will get into later. 

 

5 hours ago, Isaiah said:

May I ask if this is your first wooden model? 

Yes. I have designed another wood model, but I soon realized I would need experience. This boat has a relatively simple shape and deck plan, as well as simple masting. Most importantly, however, there are ample references. 

 

 

[Ferrus Manus]

This is the oyster smack Lizzie Annie, a boat of a similar size to the Devin Collins. 

This showcases an alternative rig for the vessel, as well as some of the core rigging principles that will be employed. Note the fact that the bowsprit makes up about a third of the total length of the ship, as well as the lack of a topsail. The Devin Collins, as a pilot cutter, will need the topsail as well as the flying jib. Pilot cutters raced for the privilege of offering their services to large ships in the Bristol Channel, necessitating the obscenely large sail area. 

Edited March 20 by Ferrus Manus

[Ferrus Manus]

Another area of note: the hull was not designed in the late-1800's style, with the straight-vertical bow and the sloping stern. The design for the hull was based largely off ship's boats from the late 18th/early 19th centuries, and pilot cutters of the era used that same hull shape. However, as a later pilot cutter, this design will include more iron strapping and a deck plan more suited to late-19th century cutters. 

[Ferrus Manus]

12 hours ago, Isaiah said:

’m sure I’ll learn a thing or two. 

I'm sure we'll both learn a lot more than a thing or two. 

[Ferrus Manus]

At this point in history, at least on large ships, turnbuckles would have been used for the shrouds. Would they also have been used for the bowsprit gear? Would deadeyes still have been used on small boats in 1899? 

[Ferrus Manus]

This is a pilot cutter with turnbuckles used on the shrouds. Note the main wale and the pseudo-channels that hold the shrouds away from the hull. This will likely be what I use on this boat. I might use painted styrene for the straps, but I have not decided yet. 

[Ferrus Manus]

I am thinking I will start the design work for the frames soon. I have looked at various builds of 18th/19th century longboats, which the hull shape is most similar to. I have come up with a general pattern of frame design, based mostly on the longboats of the era. Hopefully, however, we will end up with a unique hull shape. 

[Ferrus Manus]

I am hoping to be able to get to the beginning of the frames by later this week. 

[Ferrus Manus]

Today, we will design the first five frames of the Devin Collins. 

I began by taking measurements of the curve of the hull (as per the first shown diagram) and calculated the maximum width of each frame, then divided the totals by two. This extra width will account for the material taken from each frame during the fairing process. 

The transom is not listed as a frame, owing to its outward angle in relation to the false keel, as well as its width being half the width of a frame. 

Then, I began designing frames based on the measurements shown, as well as the total length from the deck to the bottom of the false keel. 

Remember, the amount of sanding that will be required on both the top and sides of the frames mean that the less-than-perfect measurements intrinsic in non-CAD designs will not end up mattering. This is also due in part to the relatively simple shape of the hull. The uprights shown on the frames are not part of the frame, but rather a placeholder for the stanchions that will support the bulwarks. 

 

Edited March 28 by Ferrus Manus

[Isaiah]

What wood will you be using for the bulkheads? Or will you use ply or mdf?

Edited March 28 by Isaiah

[Ferrus Manus]

Probably just regular planking. The bulkhead stanchions will be made using Don's wood (I still don't know exactly what type of wood that is, but he showed me a sample and it's perfect for both planking and framing) and I came up with an ingenious idea in the late hours of last night. When it comes time to plank, the upper half of the main wale will extend above the frames, serving as a further support for the stanchions. The stanchions will probably be 1/8 inch square, and a half inch tall. I could also use plastic card for this job, and fill in the rest of the inside area with wood of the same thickness. 

[Ferrus Manus]

To be honest, the thickness and material of the stanchions doesn't matter, because they won't be seen under the interior planking. All I need is for them to all be a uniform width and height. 

[Isaiah]

Sorry I edited the post from bulwarks to bulkheads. I got them mixed up. What will you be using for the bulkhead frames?

[Ferrus Manus]

Don's wood. The framing, false keel, and likely a significant amount of the planking will be made from Don's wood. He is basically sending me raw materials, and I'm sending them back in the form of a model ship. I will be using a lot of my own materials and fittings, however. I will be buying my own blocks, rigging line, brass, turnbuckles, shackles, chain, cloth, etc. 

[Ferrus Manus]

Apologies for the stalled progress on this build. I realized an error I will have to fix on the designs for the first 4 or 5 frames- I didn't draw the cutout for the cockpit! 

Anyways, the show will hopefully continue soon. The keel will be easy to design, as well as the rest of the frames up to the beginning of the stempost. There are, I believe, 4 stempost frames. I do not believe these vessels had any kind of cant frames or hawse pieces. It wouldn't need them, as this is a small vessel. 

I have changed my design for the shroud turnbuckles- they will be attached directly to either the outside of the hull or the top of the cap rail. I might buy my own pre-cut planking material for at least the deck. 

I have been recommended a hand planer to assist with the extensive fairing at the bow. 

 

[Ferrus Manus]

I have decided to reduce the rig in the interest of saving space for display. The intended display location is a bedroom-turned-library. This provides a unique challenge owing to the size of the model.

Thus, the length of the bowsprit will probably be halved, or thereabouts. The height of the mast will likely be reduced by about 6 inches, and the length of the boom will extend not more than two inches from the transom. This is all subject to change, and should not be considered an exact science. The jackyard topsail will have to stay, assuming the rig is to be set. If the sails are to be furled, however, (which would be easier for me, and might even look better, but would sacrifice the WOW factor) then the height of the topsail yard stops being a factor.  

[Ferrus Manus]

I have now made width measurements for all of the keel frames. 

The stempost frames will be more complicated owing to the fact that the heights of each frame are different. I will likely design these frames by hand, without the use of a compass. 

[Ferrus Manus]

This is the pilot cutter Pellew, a vessel that is significantly larger than either the Lizzie Annie or the Devin Collins. A point of note is the topmast stay and the fact that the jib is still on a traveler. This eliminates the need for furling ropes or manropes on the bowsprit. The second stay and taller mast both exist because the Pellew has a standing gaff topsail. I am sticking with a jackyard topsail as is flown on the Lizzie Annie. 

 

Edited Tuesday at 04:40 AM by Ferrus Manus

[Ferrus Manus]

Now, I am thinking of redesigning the stempost and lengthening the keel. It's not too late to do this, as I haven't designed the stempost frames yet. I will likely redesign it to reflect the bow shapes of the era. 

The straight-vertical bow will help with the planking process. 

 

Edited Tuesday at 08:29 PM by Ferrus Manus

[Ferrus Manus]

This is the redesigned bow: 

Eventually, I will have to do the design for the false keel cutout. The cutouts for the keel and frames will be glued on 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch thick wood, and cut out via a band saw. 

[Isaiah]

I thought the first drawing already has a straight bow? Me the beginner is confused.

Edited Tuesday at 11:37 PM by Isaiah

[Ferrus Manus]

I have reevaluated the positioning of the main wale on the boat. I have also come up with a different way of attaching the stanchions for the upper bulwarks that does not require the wale to be above deck-level. The deck will be planked off-ship (this is non-negotiable as I already have working plans for that) and laid down on the tops of the frames. Then, with each frame still exposed, the stanchions will be positioned on top of the deck. This opens up new avenues for the scupper designs. Some smacks have an open area at deck level for water runoff, while others have proper scuppers. I will likely go the latter route. 

 

The Lizzie Annie has an unplanked area at deck level...

 

...while the cutter Kochi has proper scuppers. 

 

The plan is to drill holes and insert brass pins connecting the stanchions to the hull. The reason for this, apart from the scupper issue, is that the interiors of these cutters' upper bulwarks usually remain unplanked. Thus, the stanchions are to remain exposed when the upper bulwarks are planked and painted. I have rarely ever seen the main wale above deck level on an English smack. 

Edited Tuesday at 11:43 PM by Ferrus Manus

[Ferrus Manus]

20 minutes ago, Isaiah said:

I thought the first drawing already has a straight bow? Me the beginner is confused.

The drawings you're looking at are not my drawings or plans, but rather a representation of how the bow should look on my vessel. 

Edited Tuesday at 11:51 PM by Ferrus Manus

[Ferrus Manus]

Another possibility that avoids the brass pin inserts is to cut a square hole at the edge of the planking at regular intervals (probably every other frame, will be determined after planking is on-ship) and insert the stanchions into the cutouts in the deck. A third option is to use JB-Weld on the bottoms of the stanchions. The first plank on the stanchions, directly above the wale, will be glued to the wale as well as the stanchions, increasing the structural soundness of the entire system. 

Edited Tuesday at 11:49 PM by Ferrus Manus

[GrandpaPhil]

Ferrus,

Howard Chapelle has several excellent examples of pilot cutters in his books “The History of American Sailing Ships” and “The Search For Speed Under Sail”.  

His books are some of my go-to references for 19th Century sailing vessels.

 

He has many sets of hull lines/plans and isometric drawings of different ships, including pilot boats.

That may help you with the hull/deck design.

 

Chapelle’s books are very common and can be found on EBay cheaply.

Edited Wednesday at 12:46 AM by GrandpaPhil