America 1851 by Caferacer - Mamoli - Scale 1:66

[Caferacer]

Some catch up:

First I added the false timbers. 

[Caferacer]

The Bowsprit is interesting on this boat, this is because even mid-race they can change the jib configuration, which is fascinating.  Can you imagine climbing out there at speed, and changing the spar out?  The configuration shown in these plans have an additional spar extended out along the bowsprit, which I like.  However there are some issues.

First the cast part supplied wasn't right, it didn't set the spar in the right position, the spar should be at about a 45 degree angle.  If I set the cast part that way then the rings are not in the right orientation.  Another issue is the strut below the spar, the tensioning rigging, I couldn't think of how I could keep that stable under line tension.  So back to scratch, using some heat sinks I was able to build up the new part one piece at a time, including soldering a "bar" to replicate the strut.  You can see the configuration in the last picture with the rigging plans.

[Caferacer]

I realize I didn't get a photo after clean up.  Obviously I cleaned up the extra solder with a file, however before painting these parts, I dip them in muriatic acid. This cleans off any solder resin, and provides a light etch. 

I didn't have the correct stock for the bowsprit, so this was laminated up,  sized to fit the windlass, then tapered to shape. If my calculations are correct, once I size and taper the spar, even with what looks like a downward slope, the tip should be angled up in relation to the deck.

Edited August 24 by Caferacer

[Caferacer]

Made the bobstay and heart.

[Caferacer]

I wasn't happy with the rivets provided a hawse pipes, there should also be pipes to drop under the deck.  So I flared some aluminum tubing, I think it will represent the hawse better.

[Caferacer]

Hull is about done, some of the planks have come loose from sanding and cutting the scuppers.  I also made the trunnions from brass, I did the pin for the trunnions differently, I have usually made pins, and struggled to hook the rudder on, or build it up, nailing the hull trunnions on after assembling the rudder, and that's a struggle too.  This time I used a piece of brass wire to catch all the trunnions from the base of the rudder.  It did bend a little , so I need to adjust the rudder so it's evenly spaced, but I think this will e the first model where the rudder isn't going to fall off when I move it.

 

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Edited August 31 by Caferacer

[Caferacer]

Finished the top rail, I do these now, by gluing a large plank to the timbers, then carving/sanding to get the overhang on the hull right, then using a compass, I create the parallel overhang over the deck.  I need to make a few "adjustments to the timbers, they sure looked fine before, but I obviously want them to meet the top rail nicely.

I'm also carving some cleats, I glued the tail end of 4 pieces of stock together, then I can carve the profile on all four, before cutting them loose and finishing.  I'll used the supplied ones for the booms and bowsprit, I just don't believe every cleat would be the same size.

 

Edited September 7 by Caferacer

[Caferacer]

Adding the chainstays, I also wasn't happy with the waterline, so I'm going to repaint it.  The chainstays aren't great, but, fine.  I think the loops holding the dead eyes are too long.  I have added the standoff for the fore chainstays, undecided at this time, if, like some kits, I'll shorten them, it's really hard to tell if this is interpretation by other kits or fact.  Photos are too washed out to see and n something like this; paintings are not really to be trusted.

[Gregory]

FWIW, here are the  chain plates in the Campbell drawings.  I feel Campbell can be taken on good authority.

 

I think the kit provided parts really compromise the quality of your build.

 

The look above could be achieved  with some annealed steel wire. My best guess would be 22 gauge.

 

 

This little snip from the Speedwell plans by Chuck show how simple they could be.

 

PS

Here is a drawing I found from a Museum in San Francisco

 

 

 

Edited September 13 by Gregory

[Caferacer]

Thanks @Gregory  I was thinking about how I could replace the loops holding the dead eyes, I've made chainstays from scratch, that's not a problem.

So, yes, I think I will replace them.

[Caferacer]

I did proceed with replacing the loops, elongated the dead eye holes as well. I have a couple of "masts" in place to hold them in place while I secure the pins and such.

[Keith Black]

 Is the bottom deadeye supposed to be above or below the cap rail? Sorry, I'm a bit confused. 

Edited September 14 by Keith Black

[Caferacer]

Fore are below, stern are above, weird, also one the fore have the stand offs.

[Gregory]

Mamoli does seem to take artistic license with some details but they are not alone.

 

The Campbell drawing above shows the fore lower deadeyes below the cap rail while the contemporary drawing shows them both above.

 

This 1851 painting shows the fore deadeyes below the cap rail.

 

Edited September 14 by Gregory

[gsdpic]

For what it's worth, the larger bluejacket kit had the sponsons for the chain plates a little bit higher and wider but the lower deadeyes are basically even with or slightly below the cap rail.

Edited September 14 by gsdpic

[Caferacer]

@gsdpic Looks like the rail is a little lower in the Blue Jacket kit (amazing job BTW!!) I can't see the scuppers.

 

I'm going to see if I can find some basswood dowels, but in the meantime I'm making the masts from some laminated basswood. 

Hard to see in the photo, but that's an 8.5 to 3 mm taper

[gsdpic]

My America does not have scuppers.  I don't remember if the Bluejacket plans/instructions did not show the scuppers or if I neglected to include them in for some reason.