sharpening blades

[gulfmedic1]

do you guys sharpen your blades like the #11 blade or just get more

and for the carving blades what do you use to sharpen them

[Mahuna]

I've read that you can use an old blade in place of a stone, and hone your good blade on it.  I tried it and it seems to work.  But with the price of a 100 blade box it just seemed like too much hassle to do it repeatedly, so I generally swap out old blades for new.

 

Frank

[Pete38]

Sharpen #11 blades.....I thought you were supposed to break them before they got dull......been doing it wrong again....

 

Seriously though...I have not sharpened them...but I do have them saved back just in case....I can't remember if it was MSW1 or MSW2 where Dan Vadas had a thread where he went into detail on how to sharpen them  (nice thread)

[johnegert]

El Medico--- I'd agree with the Kahuna-- I'd soon be a sharpening hobbyist rather than a model builder if I started resharpening #11's. It's possible, of course, and I've done it on my Japanese water stones ( if you try 'em, you won't go back to Arkansas) which I use for my fine little Flexcut carving tools, as well as all my bonsai tools. Have you guys tried the new zirconium coated Xacto #11's-- pretty darn good, but brittle--even easier to break off that blade tip. Doc-- Google "Hummel Woodworking" and you will be introduced to the strange and arcane world of bird carving. You think WE'RE weird??? But these Odd Ones know their tools and how to treat them. They have a wonderful printed catalog they'll be happy to ensnare you with....

john

[gulfmedic1]

Guys thanks for the info I kinda figured just toss or save as back up but I thought I ask

As for the gouges what do you use to sharpen them other than Japanese water stone I'm going to look up that one

[johnegert]

GM--- For gouges, I use Flexcut's stone--not a water stone--- that has several properly shaped "troughs" to sharpen the gouge edge, and hone the inside surface. I have also rigged up some stropping leather gizmos to finish the job. For my use, there is nothing better than a small selection of water stones which I keep in a gallon jug full of H2O. I first used them in Japan in the early 70's, and fell right in love with them. With care, you can get to sushi/fugu slicing, mirror finish, seppuku standard edges--- really neat. I like diamond stones and hones for quick, while you're working, tune ups.

As I said, this sharpening fetish can become an avocation itself, which saves a lot of $$ since there's no need to buy the stupid ship kits anymore.

john

[gulfmedic1]

John

thanks a lot for the info and ill make sure to watch for the signs of tool sharpening addiction lol

[Ulises Victoria]

As Frank said, I buy a box of 100 blades and just throw away used ones. Nothing like cutting with a new blade.

As a penturner, one of my weakest spots is in sharpening my tools. Still learning that stuff.

[src]

I just "throw" mine in a small plastic bin to, theoretically, turn into other tools. So far I have made an entire set on of one.

 

The smaller stuff I too sharpen on a water stone, the larger - 1/4" and up I will tune up on a water stone but when I really need to get in grind you cant beat the Tormek system for speed. I have 50+ chisles at work from cheap Harbor Freight tools up to big hand made mortising chisels that John Wayne would be proud to  use. I have brought 15 -20 home before, some with divots in them from chopping into fiberglass - Harbor Freight tools are great for that, and had a very nice working edge on all of them in just a couple of hours. There are even some attachments that will hold the miniature tools I see used here. Just my 2 pennies worth.

 

And yes, it can become an addiction.

 

As far as the zirconium #11 blades.. do you men these? Perhaps I got a bad batch but these cut horribly, you might as well try cutting wood with the back of a plastic butter knife. I havent tried sharpening them, seems like adding insult to injury to me.

 

 

Sam 

Edited September 28, 2013 by src

[johnegert]

Sam--- Does it say "zirconium nitride coated"?? My package trumpets that fact....As said, I seem to be getting better mileage, but still break off the tips on #11's with disgusting regularity. Yeah, you start to wish they'd leave well enough alone-- gimme 100 SS #11's, and quit screwing around, eh.

john

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

I have a Flexcut Slipstrop, see my review

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/346-flexcut-slipstrop-review/?p=3290

 

It cost about the same as a pack of 100 replacement blades and does require a small amount of practice to get the most out of it: But I have not replaced my blade since February. There is a very noticeable difference in the way my knifes slices through wood as compared to the way even a brand new blade cuts it. 

 

It only takes me about 10 seconds to tune a blade and it has completely spoiled me.  Every tool I own is razor sharp

 

The only person I would not recommend this to is someone who does not know how to safely use a sharp instrument.  

 

PS: If you choose to get one add a few drops of baby oil to the leather surface

Edited September 28, 2013 by JPett

[johnegert]

Pett---- No real disagreement--- I think anybody who works in wood-- or any material, really---- must, sooner or later, come to at least a basic mastery of the tools of the craft and their care and feeding, or else be fated to be behind the curve of improvement in their chosen gig. But it is a small but significant lifestyle change. I hung out in the pre-computer graphics world for a while, and those people went through literally thousands of blades with no care whatsoever to their design or properties--speed/competition ruled all decisions. But in our world, at the top of the ladder, will be those whose level of care will lead them into many learning curves. I admire you, Pett. OK I just went over to work and put a bunch of new blades into my little cryotreatment ewer with liquid nitrogen. Let's see what -300f will do to 'em.

john

[dgbot]

It all depends.  If I have many blades lying around  I will replace the blade.  Otherwise I will hone it.  Xacto blades are sharp out of the package but if you take it to a strop you can put a razor edge on it.

David B

[src]

JP, I will have to try that strop.

 

John, the package doesnt say anything about any special coating, just long life. They skate across wood rather than cutting. The regular #11s I have been buying are far superior to what that packing in the picture contains, at more than half the per blade cost IIRC. Maybe JP's strop idea will fix 'em. Actually I had considered taking them to the leather wheel on the Tormek, but never got around to it; they were pushed to the back of the drawer till this topic reminded me of them.

Sam

[Q A's Revenge]

Not tried it myself on craft knives but you should be able to maintain an edge for a while with stropping. All you need is a small piece of leather stuck to a piece of wood and some fine abrasive paste. Some folks use Autosol.

 

http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Metal_Polish.html

 

Another is the blue stuff on this page.

 

http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Polishing_Compounds_180gm_Half_Round_Bar.html

[gulfmedic1]

Thanks everyone for the feedback