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Posted

Back on MSW after quite a few years break from working on my MS Niagara...

 

Decided on Vanguard's Sherbourne since it's an entry-level kit with much simplified rigging compared to the Niagara (get some basic skills in first before finishing that one).

 

Started Sherbourne in January while taking some pics along the way.

 

The kit is done exceptionally well- materials and instruction book are 1st rate!!!  Chris does an excellent job with his products and kit designs! Highly recommend!!!

 

So far, no problems with the build (recalling it's of the lessons I learned from Niagara, yet learning new stuff as well)

 

Only major change from the original kit is my color scheme (decided to stain the hull and deck, and keep most wood as natural as possible, sort of a rustic/worn look to it) 

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Posted

Hull stain was English chestnut (minwax)

Deck was weathered oak first followed by red oak stain (by minwax). LOTS of wipe/rub to get the look and coloring I wanted.

 

For blackening the brass I used Birchwood-Casey (several dips in the solution, then wiped/rinsed).  Solid black would be too dark, so I like the rusty steel/gunmetal look the parts took on.

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Posted

I'm trying to be as clean as possible, yet I'm still fine with the blemishes (gives it character I think). That's one of the reasons why I chose to stain the hull- show of the small errors and flaws, yet blend together so it all works as one.

  • The title was changed to HM Cutter Sherbourne by Rich_engr - Vanguard Models - 1:64
Posted

Chris,

Thank you!  It's slightly darker than I wanted, but still ok!  Tried over a dozen combinations of stains on some of the scrap pear wood to see how they'd look... unfortunately Lowes only had a few in the 8oz cans (don't need a whole quart).

 

So it's a good idea to test paint and stains on scraps of the actual wood to see how they'll turn out! 😉

Posted

Now that hull and deck are mostly finished, onto the mast and spars...

 

Also semi-thinking of adding sails (furled on the yards/boom, etc)... haven't decided yet... if I do go with sails, have to do them before adding the standing rigging I think...

Posted
5 hours ago, Rich_engr said:

unfortunately Lowes only had a few in the 8oz cans (don't need a whole quart)

 

Yes, I have encountered that problem myself.

 

5 hours ago, Rich_engr said:

Also semi-thinking of adding sails (furled on the yards/boom, etc)... haven't decided yet... if I do go with sails, have to do them before adding the standing rigging I think...

 

It's been 25 years since I built my Sherbourne, but I believe I did the standing rigging first. Working around the sails would be rather aggravating, I think.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Mitsubishi A6M5a, WAK SBLim-2A

Richard44's SBLim-2A build

Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Rich_engr said:

Now that hull and deck are mostly finished, onto the mast and spars...

 

Also semi-thinking of adding sails (furled on the yards/boom, etc)... haven't decided yet... if I do go with sails, have to do them before adding the standing rigging I think...

I like to work up as I go. So have everything built but not glued together. Then I do the mainmast and all the associated rigging then the topmast etc. The main advantage of this is it lets you make the shroud eyes (and serve them if that is what you plan to do) off model and then slip them over the top of the mast instead of having to try and seize them on the model.

 

For the yards I rig as much as I can on them (this would include the furled sails) off model. It is much easier to do things off model. Then you attach the finished yards to the mast. If you are pinning them, make sure you drill the holes for the pins in the mast before adding it to the model (again much easier to do off model).

Edited by Thukydides
Posted

Rich,

I have looked at many of the build logs here and suggested videos that explain about marking the frames so all the planks are tapered correctly in width from stem to stern.  Do the instructions show this?  It seems to be logical as the space for frames from the keel to the top of the hull is different at every frame.  

Thank you.

Bill

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