Duchess of Kingston 1798 by Glenn-UK - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Commission Build

[RolandR]

It is more a tutorial than a building log. As a beginner, I really appreciate it. It answered a lot of questions I had.

Thanks.

[Geordie Tyne]

3 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

I think the handle looks OK. Should I paint the quoin black, thoughts anyone?

I like the contrast of the black handle and bare wood of the quoin. However you are the captain in charge, so ignore me and go with what you think will suit best. Judging by your previous builds, whatever you choose to do will look great.

 

I am currently trying to figure out the fittings and sizes for my ships guns, so seeing the work you are doing with yours is proving really informative.

 

Regards

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 12 (15th – 18^th Nov 2025)

 

Task 31 – Second Planking Preparation

Before commencing with adding the planks there was a bit of background work required. I had decided to use a 4-butt shift pattern for the second planking. With reference to the information contained in Longridge's book Anatomy of Nelson's Ships I created the following plan contained in the attached pdf file.

001 4 Butt.pdf

 

This a sequence that repeats and works as follows:

a) First plank has been positioned with the reference bulkhead

b) The second plank start point is then 2 bulkheads to the right of the first plank.

c) The third plank start point is then 1 bulkhead to the left of the first plank.

d) The forth plank start point is then 1 bulkhead to the right of the first plank.

e) the firth plank start point is then 2 bulkheads to the left of the first plank.

f) Repeat the above sequence a) to e)

 

When looking at both @James H and @DelF build logs it appeared that the first three planks were not tapered around the bow. I test this out and concluded I could follow suit without any issues.

 

When looking at the kit supplied Lime planks there is quite a bit of colour variation between them. Therefore as I proceed to fit the planks I need to colour match the planks with the bulwark as far as it practical, noting this becomes less of an issue below the waterline as the hull will be painted white.

 

Task 32 – Adding the first plank

After selecting the first plank it is test fitted in the rabbet and a line is drawn so it follows the curve of the stem post.

 

Following the information provided by @Chuck lateral bending method I set about working out the central point of the U-shaped bend. The plank brushed with water and clamped. A hairdryer was then used to apply heat.

 

The first planking layer (right and left sides) was then glued to the hull.

 

Task 33 – Adding the next two planks

It was then a case of cutting planks to the required lengths for the 4-butt shift pattern and gluing them to the hull.

 

Task 34 – Garboard Plank

Noting that 24 planks / side would be required, and as 3 planks had already been fitted below the bulwark I thought it would make sense to add the garboard plank which would then leave 20 planks to fill the gap. This would make it easy to split this area into 4 planking bands, width 5 planks per band.

 

I took my time to get the required shape around both the the stem and stern post. I also worked out the required plank start positions for the 4-butt shift pattern, based on pattern created by first three planks.

 

Photos

In the photo below I an checking if three full width planks can be fitted around the bow, not colour matched.

In the next photo I am checking the colour match of first plank with the bulwark, it looks good.

The next photo shows marking the plank for rabbet so it follows the curve of the stem post

The next photo shows the central lateral bend point, which is where the widest gap is

Lateral bending of the first plank (left and right)

First plank has now been fitted, and the 4-butt joints can be seen

Checking the second plank fits, also checking it is aligned with the required bulkhead line.

 Cutting planks method. This tool give a nice shape cut. I do give the cut edges a very light sand.

Second planking layer completed, I am using acetone and water to clean the planks to remove excess glue. The 4-butt pattern can be seen.

Third planking layer completed, so far so good.

 Garboard plank - stem post

Garboard plank - Stern post

Edited November 18 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 13 (19^th Nov 2025)

 

Task 35 – Banding Preparation

After fitting the first 3 full width planks and the garboard plank I was left with a gap of 80mm to fill at the midships, which would require 20 x 4mm planks to fill.

 

I think it will be a good idea to split the infill area into 4 bands, with each band comprising 5 planks.

 

I took some measurements and then calculated the planking requirements. as follows:

 

Stem Post

BK 1

BK 2

BK 3

BK 4

BK 5

BK 6

BK 7

BK 8

BK 9

BK 10

BK 11

BK 12

Length To Fill

40mm

48mm

65mm

74mm

80mm

80mm

80mm

80mm

80mm

76mm

74mm

74mm

74mm

Band Width

10mm

12mm

16.5mm

18.5mm

20mm

20mm

20mm

20mm

20mm

19mm

18.5mm

18.5mm

18.5mm

Plank width

2mm

2.4mm

3.3mm

3.7mm

4mm

4mm

4mm

4mm

4mm

3.8mm

3.7mm

3.7mm

3.7mm

 

I made a couple of paper templates, one for the bow area and one for the stern area. I added the required curve to the bow section template which will help with the lateral bend.

 

Using a spare piece of 4mm planking material I made a bow plank (from bulkhead 4 to stem post) and a stern plank (from bulkhead 8 to stern post) using the above table measurements and templates as guides. I was happy with how they both looked when test fitted.

 

The test planks, when held against the hull, both appeared a good fit, therefore I can now proceed with planking the first banding section.

 

Photos

The paper template is being checked in the photo below. I took my time to get the right shape for the top edge. The bottom edge and drawn planks could have been neater.

The stern template. I did make a hash of cutting the bottom edge.

I also did a test the template around the stern counter as would like to fit two planks to the outer edge before the planking has to rotate so it terminates with the bottom edge.

I did purchase a set of proportional dividers to help with tapering the planks. It has been correctly set in the photo below.

Test lateral bending of tapered bow plank, using the template as a guide.

Test fit of the test plank, looks OK, noting it was not colour matched.

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 16 (20^th – 22^nd Nov 2025)

 

Task 36 – Adding one planking layer

I thought I would share, in detail, the method which I am now using to fit the second layer of planks.

 

Step 1 – Creating a paper template for the lateral bend

A piece of paper is folded underneath the plank. I then use a pencil to trace the required bend, as shown in the photo below. Next I cut along the pencil line and this becomes the template for the lateral bend.

Step 2 – Tapering the plank

Using the various bulkhead measurements taken when creating the banding areas, I use my digital callipers to mark the required widths. You will note, in the photo below, I also have a guide plank to indicate the positions of the various bulkheads.

 

Step 3 – Lateral bend of the plank

Once the taper has been applied the plank is then laterally bent. The paper template is used to set the required curve, as shown in the next photo. Water is brushed on to the plank and a hair dryer is used to apply the heat.

Step 4 – Test Fit

Once the plank has been bent as per the template it is test fitted. As can be seen in the next photo the plank sits flush with the previous plank without any force added. The plank is then cut to the required length as per the 4-butt shift pattern.

Step 5 – Gluing the plank

Glue is applied to the hull, using the following attachment to the super glue container. This attachment has proved to be an invaluable asset in this respect.

I brush some water on the underside of the plank to aid the adhesive with the ca glue. The plank is then carefully fitted, working from the stem post. I am happy with how this plank (still damp) looks, once glued in place.

Step 6 – Midships Plank

The midships plank is cut to size, a slight bevel is applied to the top edge. Glue is then added to the hull before the damped plank is fitted. The red arrows shows the 4-butt shift joints.

Step 7 – Stern Post Plank

This is the plank that takes the most effort to fit. With the plank in position, as shown below, the underside is marked where the sharp bend to the lower stern counter pattern starts.

The bend area is then wetted and a bend applied. I usually start with a gentle manipulation with my hand to get the start of the bend. Next I use a bottle to complete the task. A hairdryer is used when the plank is being bent around the bottle.

The bent plank fit is then checked, as shown below. The bend looks OK. The pencil dot is where the plank need to terminate with the stern counter.

Using the pencil mark on the plank I use the following template to cut the correct angle.

The next photo shows the stern post plank prior to fitting.

The dampened plank is then glued in position. This time I work from the stern post to the midships to ensure I get a good join with the stern counter. Apart from one plank (red arrow), where I worked from midships to stern counter when the plank was fitted, I am really pleased with how the joints with the stern counter looks.  

As can be seen in the final photo of this post the remaining stern counter gap to fill is exactly one full planks width which is ideal.

[RossR]

Thanks for sharing so much detail.  I am almost to the point of planking my current build and it will be my first attempt at edge bending.  I really appreciate you sharing your process.  

[Russ2025]

13 hours ago, RossR said:

Thanks for sharing so much detail.  I am almost to the point of planking my current build and it will be my first attempt at edge bending.  I really appreciate you sharing your process.  

I’ll jump onboard with Ross and say I appreciate an experienced builder taking time to share their techniques. 
 

Russ

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 17 (23^rd -24th Nov 2025)

 

Task 37 – Plans to complete 2^nd planking on right-hand side

Work is progressing with adding the second planking to the right-hand side. I have now reached the stage where the final two / three runs are required.

 

The following is a photo of the current build status. There is some glare reflection from the lights as I took these pictures in the evening with my LED spotlights.

I have now started work on adding the next plank, and in the next photo I am using a spare piece of planking material to gauge the shaping of the final bow plank.

The next photo shows the stern area, the pencil line shows where the final two planks will fit. There is a bit of damage to one of the stern planks, I am not sure what happened there.

In the next photo I am checking that two full planks will fill the gap.

However, when checking the midship section the gap is approximately 2.5 plank widths, which is a bit frustrating.

In the next photo I am checking where the gap is back to 2 plank widths on the bow.

My plan, to complete the planking is try and leave a rectangular 2mm shape for the final midship infill.

Edited November 24 by Glenn-UK

[LoydB]

Thanks for all the detail on the planking.

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 18 (25^th Nov 2025)

 

Task 38 – Completion of second planking layer on right-hand side

Following on from my last post in did not take me too long to complete the right-hand side second planking.

 

My working method has evolved during this task. Using paper templates to get the right shape for the bow lateral band has certainly made a big positive difference.

 

Also using a 4-butt shift pattern for the planking made the task much easier, especially with getting good joints with the stern counter and post.

 

Although by no means perfect, I am pleased with how the planking looks and it is much better than any of my previous models.

 

I am now debating whether to paint the section below the waterline white or to leave it with just a nice varnish. There is no need to decide just yet, and of course I will consult with my daughter-in-law before making a final decision.

 

In the photos below I have brushed some water on the planking to give an impression of how it will look once varnished. It also highlights all the flaws.

 

Photos

The completed hull

The stern area

Midships, shows the 4-butt shift pattern

Bow area

Edited November 25 by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 19 (26^th – 27^th Nov 2025)

 

Task 39 – Start of second planking layer on left-hand side

I am now working slowly and steadily with adding the second planking layer on the left-hand side.

 

In the following photo I have completed the first banding section of 5 tapered planks around the bow. I am doing my best to match these planks up with the right-hand side.

 The next photo shows the first banding section around the stern

After completing the first banding section I took some measurements and then added some tic marks for the remaining bow planks, as can be seen in the next photo. I used my digital callipers to help mark the positions.

The next set of photos were taken after I had completed the second banding area. Now that I have completed the joint with the stern counter I will add some tic mark for the stern section for tapering.

 

[Cabbie]

Love your work Glen, I have been following for a bit. This planking idea is certainly an art to learn. I am doing a Vanguard Alert currently. Is the wood pearwood, I am using this on my Alert and I have found it very good to use.

Cheers Chris

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 20 (28^th - 30^th Nov 2025)

 

Task 40 – Completion of second planking

I have now completed the second planking task. I am pleased with how the hull now looks, noting there will be a few areas to add some wood filler when it is time to paint the hull below the waterline.

 

Photos

Right-Hand Side

Left-Hand Side

Bow

Stern

Edited November 30 by Glenn-UK

[Ronald-V]

Well done Kevin! Looks like a good flow in the planking  

[Glenn-UK]

53 minutes ago, Ronald-V said:

Well done Kevin! Looks like a good flow in the planking  

Thanks Ronald

 

Kevin? 🤣

 

[Ronald-V]

1 hour ago, Glenn-UK said:

Thanks Ronald

 

Kevin? 🤣

 

🤣 

 

Glenn ofcourse 🤪

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 21 (1^st Dec 2025)

 

Task 41 – Prep for adding Laser Etched Decks and Inner Bulwark patterns

It will take me a few days to complete the next task of adding the two laser engraved decks and associated inner bulwark patterns.

 

The first task was to remove the bulkhead ears that protrude above the decks. These snapped of easily and the deck base was then sanded to remove any remaining excess bulkhead ear material.

 

Once that was done, I did a test fit of the upper deck and bulwarks. Everything seems to be well aligned. Pins were also used to double check the deck was properly aligned with the deck base.

 

Next I did a trial fit of the lower deck. This is a bit tighter and did require a little bit of sanding to ensure a good fit. Pins were once again used to double check the deck was properly aligned with the deck base.

 

Using the same template used when bending the outer bulwark patterns the right-hand side inner bulwark pattern, after a 30-minute soaking in hot water, was clamped to it. Once it had dried out, I did a test fit. I will need to make some minor adjustments to this pattern to ensure it is properly aligned such as sanding a bit from the bottom of bow section of this pattern. I also need to add a chamfer to the leading edge, so it locks in with the stem post.

 

I made a cardboard copy of the left-hand bulwark pattern to see what modifications, if any, would be required. The left-hand pattern, after soaking, was clamped to the bending template and will now be left to fully dry out overnight.

 

Photos

Upper deck trial fit with bulwarks

Lower deck trial fit

Pins used to check lower deck alignment

Right-hand inner bulwark alignment. I need to sand a bit from the bottom of bow section of this pattern. I also need to add a chamfer to the leading edge, so it locks in with the stem post.

Left-hand side card template test fit.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 22 (2^nd Dec 2025)

 

Task 42 – Laser Etched Decks and Inner Bulwark patterns

It took a few attempts before I was happy with the dry fit of the lower deck inner bulwark patterns. I ended up taking about 1mm from the front edge and then I had to sand a bit from the bottom edge. When test fitting the patterns I used both the cathead and the oval locator plugs to check the alignment.

 

The two laser etched deck patterns were then glued in place. I used some pins pushed through the eyebolt holes to make sure these patterns were aligned with the deck bases.

 

When test fitting the upper deck bulwark patterns I noted, when properly aligned, there was a gap between the bottom edge and the deck in the mid-section. I did consider making some new patterns, but I decided to sit these patterns flush with the deck when they were glued in place.

 

The lower deck inner bulwark patterns were then glued in place. I used the catheads and oval locator plugs to position these patterns before clamping. Once clamped the catheads and locator plugs were removed.

 

 

Photos

Lower deck trial fit with bulwarks

Laser Etched Decks Fitted

The next photos shows the mid-section gap when the upper deck inner bulwark is aligned.

Upper deck inner bulwark glued in place, without the gap with the deck.

The lower deck inner bulwark pattern clamped in place after gluing. The oval locators were removed after this photo was taken. You may also note that I have drawn and taped the preliminary water line

The current build status

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 23 (3^rd  Dec 2025)

 

Task 43 – More Prep Work

I have now sanded the tops of the bulwarks level and did test fit the gunwales. All looks good. I did brush on some diluted wood filler around the curved sections that are not covered by the gunwales so the laminations between the layers will not be visible once painted.

 

The gunport opening were also sanded smooth and coated with diluted wood filler so that, when painted, the laminations between the layers should not be visible. I copied this method from @DelF.

 

I am currently waiting for a delivery of some Rustins Polyurethane clear satin varnish so I can apply a WOP finish to the hull before embarking on the painting tasks. I have also ordered some different coloured paints. Depending on the test results I might then paint the hull and inner bulwarks with a wooden paint finish.

 

I also took the opportunity to test fit some of the deck items which locate in the various deck openings. Thankfully no problems detected.

 

Photos

Picture of the hull with some deck items, masts and bowsprit test fitted.

Gun ports sanded and coated with diluted wood filler.

Checking a cannon with a gunport

Checking the bitts and mast on the upper deck

Checking the cabin pattern, main mast and bitts

Checking the foremast, bowsprit and bitts.

Edited Thursday at 08:22 PM by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 24 (5^th & 6^th  Dec 2025)

 

Task 44 – Painting The Hull

The first task was to apply a WOP finish to the hull, inner bulwarks, stern counter and decks. I used a 50 / 50 mix of Rustins Clear Satin polyurethane and white sprit for this. Two coats were applied.

 

Next the gunport oval openings were painted blue. Tape was attached to the inner bulwarks to prevent leakage.

 

Next the hull was taped up so the blue band could be painted. I brushed on 4 coats of diluted blue paint.

 

The tape was then removed and new tape added so the red paint band could be added. I brushed on 4 coats of diluted red paint.

 

The lower stern counter was also painted blue.

 

Photos

Gun Ports Painted

Hull taped and ready for the blue paint

Hull after blue paint has been added

 

Hull taped and ready for the red paint

 

Hull after red paint has been added. Rails will be added which will hide and paint overspills between the colours.

 

Stern counter painted. Rails will be added which will hide the paint overspills with the hull below the stern counter.

Testing different wood-coloured paints which I might use on the hull. I am currently drawn toward the right hand walnut wood colour.

Edited Saturday at 05:59 PM by Glenn-UK

[Geordie Tyne]

That is a nice shade of blue. What brand and colour is it?

 

I agree with regards to the Oak colour. It has a nice shade to it.

 

Regards

[Glenn-UK]

28 minutes ago, Geordie Tyne said:

That is a nice shade of blue. What brand and colour is it?

 

I agree with regards to the Oak colour. It has a nice shade to it.

 

Regards

It is AK11180  Imperial Blue, acrylic. The red is AK11092 Matt Red acrylic.

 

The wood colour is Admiralty paints AP9119W (walnut). Not sure why I said oak and I have updated my post accordingly.

Edited Saturday at 06:00 PM by Glenn-UK

[Geordie Tyne]

Thanks Glenn

 

I will pick up a bottle.

 

Regards

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 25 (7^th & 8^th Dec 2025)

 

Task 45 – Main Rails Prep Work

I am currently doing some more prep work this time related to the main rail patterns as it is important to get a good fit with these decorative patterns.

 

When test fitting the main rail it can be seen that stern frame counters still need to be trimmed so they are flush with the end of the main rail. I marked the end position of the main rail pattern on the hull and then with the patterns removed, using some different grit sanding sticks, the stern frames were sanded to the marked lines.

 

I did manage snap off the four dangly bits from the two rear window shapes on the right-hand main rail pattern when removing the laser char so it may take me a bit of time to sort out before that part can be fitted.

 

After carefully removing the laser char the bow main rail patterns they were soaked in hot water and then clamped to my bending jig (see earlier posts regarding the jig). Once the patterns had fully dried (after 18 hours) they were test fitted and were a good fit.

 

The next set of photos shows the test fit of the main rail patterns. They do look nice.

I will have to trim the bow section of the lower main rail patterns, so they fit flush with the stem post.

The bow gunwale patterns did need a slight adjustment to the curve at the bow end, so they accurately follow the curve of my hull. The patterns were soaked in hot water for 30 minutes and then clamped to get the required new curve. Once the clamps were removed I was happy with the fit. I also test fitted the midship and upper deck gunwales and I was happy with how they looked.

I am also adding a slight lateral bend to the rear section main rail so it follows the curve of the hull, as can be seen below.

 

[ccoyle]

One of the things I have always wondered about this kit is whether the flat 'carvings' represent historic practice or are simply a concession to less-skilled modelers -- I suspect it is the latter, but I don't recall ever reading anything to that effect. The kit looks great finished out-of-the-box, obviously, but I wonder if anyone has ever tried to add some depth to the carvings by taking off some of their sharp edges with needle files.

[Glenn-UK]

5 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

One of the things I have always wondered about this kit is whether the flat 'carvings' represent historic practice or are simply a concession to less-skilled modelers -- I suspect it is the latter, but I don't recall ever reading anything to that effect. The kit looks great finished out-of-the-box, obviously, but I wonder if anyone has ever tried to add some depth to the carvings by taking off some of their sharp edges with needle files.

With the introduction of 3D printed parts more depth can be added. For example, there is a nice 3D printed pattern which is added the stern with this kit

[Ronald-V]

10 hours ago, ccoyle said:

One of the things I have always wondered about this kit is whether the flat 'carvings' represent historic practice or are simply a concession to less-skilled modelers -- I suspect it is the latter, but I don't recall ever reading anything to that effect. The kit looks great finished out-of-the-box, obviously, but I wonder if anyone has ever tried to add some depth to the carvings by taking off some of their sharp edges with needle files.

Me too...same as the "drop" below the quarter gallery's of the Sphinx kit. I think it's a simplification of carving work or painting, but not sure either.

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 26 (9^th Dec 2025)

 

Task 45 – Mid Deck Bulkhead

The first task today was to start preparing the various PE parts for the main rails and mid deck bulkhead. After cleaning I sprayed a white primer to the PE sheets. Once the paint had dried, I taped over the items which will be painted white and then sprayed the paints with a brilliant gold paint.

 

 

The mid-section bulkhead comprises to wooden patterns which need to be glued together. However before doing this I embarked making this bulkhead fit for a Duchess. I painted the top section of the rear pattern royal imperial blue and the lower section walnut brown.

 

The upper most pattern had a more complex painting scheme. The window section was painted black. The outer framework was painted red. The outer and inner door framework sections were also painted red, and the middle section was painted walnut brown. The door was painted imperial blue. Finally, I added a walnut brown finish to the frames for the 4 off inner door decorative panels.

 

With the painting complete the two sections were glued together. I then added two eyebolts fitted with rings for the door handles (painted black). The window frames and window decorative patterns were then test fitted. I am really pleased with how this panel now looks and feel it was worth the time and effort taken.

 

The right-hand window frame was dislodged when positioning the panel for the attached photo so it is slightly askew but will be fixed in place when the frames are glued. The door hinges also need to be added, which I have painted black. There is also a decorative gold painted PE part to add above the door frame.

 

 

 

[Geordie Tyne]

That is some lovely work Glenn.

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, Geordie Tyne said:

That is some lovely work Glenn.

Thanks Geordie