HM Colonial Cutter Mermaid by olliechristo - FINISHED - Modellers ShipYard -

[olliechristo]

Hi all, have probably spent about 15 hours since i last mentioned time spent..Got a bit lazy on that. I want to be able to get a rough idea of hours at the end..

 

So i wanted to show you how the bucket came up.. It underwent much sanding and ended up nice, the aluminium bands are harder to bend around the tapered circumference (easy on the water cask).. But went ok at this scale..

 

I decided i need a scale figure, and thought i wonder how a lego man sizes up... Well he is a TALL fellow... just over 6 feet tall or about 190cm.. He just fits nicely under deck and gives me a better grasp on my items and they all look good for scale I think..    Ollie

 

 

 

 

Edited November 22, 2013 by olliechristo

[egkb]

I see he has a bump on his head from the low beams.. sorry couldn't resist..

Am loving your ideas here, the whole project has a real ship-board life feel to it, if you follow me, this looks a fun build.  Alas I ran out of 'likes' earlier today else I'd be liking those photos.

 

Eamonn

 

BTW Buckets & Barrels look amazing.. clever stuff going on here in this log!

Edited November 21, 2013 by egkb

[olliechristo]

Hi all. I have made a milestone and started planking.. I added bow filler blocks of balsa to aid in bending and some shims were needed on ply deck at bow..

 

I am happy with my progress and i think i am doing it right with the tempory plank.. Measurements for the  first side showing.. I am guessing you want to try make the other side suit as much as possible ? (in regards to measurements.. esp at bow and stern)

 

I am also wondering about false keel and if its best to fit it over first layer planking or do you scribe it in and fit to ply frame?  (I will be scratch building my false keel)  Thanks all.. Ollie

 

 

[Jim Lad]

A big step forward there, Ollie!

 

John

[Auvergne]

Really Cool craftsmanship!!! Doing a great job!!

 

John E

[Bill Hime]

Hello Ollie,

 

This is a great build log! Nice detailed explanation. Your work speaks for itself, quite beautiful. I'll be following along for sure

 

Warm Regards,

 

Bill

[ringbolt2013]

Seeing the age frame of the cutter ...are you going to the clinker type of planking or are you going to use caravel?

Both are going to hand you some very interesting times detail wise and fitting wise. Good luck and have FUN!!

 

Tom

[olliechristo]

Oh Jeez Im not sure Tom.. I hadn't even thought about that, but i know I do want to really take my time on the second planking... Any suggestions welcome on the planking..

 

So spent about 6 hours since last mention.. I soaked my supplied 3 ply bulwarks and bent in jig last week, they didn't really come up that well after their 24 hr drying time.. They sprung back a lot so i gave them a second round with a bit more curvature at bow....

 

I wanted to get my bulkwarks on after doing a few planking runs so I could make sure everything was tidy in interior and not have epoxy dripping down into finished work.. Jeez that stuff is hard to get off. Getting the bulwarks to sit right was no easy task and keeping the epoxy from going everywhere was the main worry.. I was also concerned about keeping the bulwarks standing plumb and square consistently with deck and hull. So i made the three supports which kept it all straight whilst also giving something to prevent clamps over squeezing hull... I am happy with the way it cured and it seems really strong... 

 

Thanks for looking.. Ollie

Edited November 24, 2013 by olliechristo

[Jim Lad]

Ollie,

 

We tend to think that cutters were clinker built, but many were not - especially the later ones.

 

King's painting that you're using for your avatar looks like she's carvel planked, but his other painting, 'Mermaid and the Maccassa Trepangers' isn't quite so clear as to planking.

 

What do you think?

 

John

 

[ringbolt2013]

I believe that the clinker style is most likely for the cutters as they were built by smaller, privately owned yards that specialized in the smaller local craft and not in the larger naval craft like sloops, brigs and frigates. Done well as you should be able to it will look very well and emphasize the fine lines of the typ. cutter. Have fun!

[ringbolt2013]

Biggest help to me was someone that said fit it. fit it, fit it and make sure each plank is correct and by the way fit it again!!!!! Did we talk about fitting each plank yet??? SORRY ABOUT THAT.

 

Tom

[olliechristo]

A couple more hours spent, a few more planks on and a big clean up and some thought and planning..

 

Well, in regards to the planking, i really don't have enough knowledge to say if it would be one or the other.. I didn't even know these terms..

 

What i can say is it would look really good clinker style, although it may present some problems for coppering, although im only coppering the painted side.

 

The cut-away side could have clinker, hmmm... I get the best of all world with this model and get to try out most techniques and finishes.. And im not even sure what side will look best for display in the end.. i am planning to put sails on her too, not sure if i will have them up or down though... So much to enjoy,, really gaining even more appreciation for some of the amazing builds on here. it sure is a labor of love, skill and patience... Regards  Ollie

[ringbolt2013]

I don't believe that The cutters as a class were coppered. They, as a rule were not ocean crossers and were used mostly for revenue work and "in close" work like surveying and coast watching. This type of work begged for a lot of minor hull damage witch would make expensive repairs unacceptable. The Clinker style planking was an easy fix For minor damage and the size of a cutter made for easy haul-out for cleaning too.

 

Tom

[Jim Lad]

Tom,

 

We're talking about a cutter built in and used for work in tropical waters!  Coppering was very common in small craft used in northern Australian waters - even a lot of the pearling luggers were coppered.

 

John

[ringbolt2013]

I did not know that! Fascinating info!!!!   If coppering was necessary I would definitely go with the caravel style of planking it would make perfect sense as smooth surfaces are so much easier to sheathe. You must have some terrifying creepy crawlies in those waters!

Thanks for the info about that. I really enjoy getting educated on that stuff! Helps!

 

Tom

[olliechristo]

About 4 hours since last mention of time.. Well i have been plodding away at first layer planking and learning lots, didn't realise it was such a process.. I am aiming at a plank each side after work and maybe two like today.. Lots of other duties call.

 

You may notice i added my first stealers as it is already getting pinchy at stern..

 

I am enjoying the challenges, glad i got a beginners kit    Happy crafting all Ollie

[Jim Lad]

Looks like you're having fun, Ollie.  Don't try and rush it.

 

John

[ringbolt2013]

Very, very good start!!!  This is a definite "take your own sweet time" kind of Job!!  NICE!

[olliechristo]

Hi all, still here, still plodding away at my first ever planking, learning heaps.. I have added garboard planks and starting to get my head around how to finish keel and rudder post etc... Any personal preferences in putting keel  before second planking or after?  Enjoying it and taking my time as advised..  Thanks all, Ollie

[S.Coleman]

Seems to be coming along quite nice. Doing well with the planking. It takes pateience but it pays off. I would add the keel before the second layer of planks, but that's just my opinion. Like to have something I can butt the planks up to. Good job

[aliluke]

Looking really good Ollie - you are on to it - the flow of the planks looks just right.

 

My preference is to fix the keel and stem well before the first planking is in place but I might be a rare voice for that opinion. Certainly I'd lay them before laying the second layer so that you have something to dress the second layer to, Leave off the stern post though until after the second layer is finished. It is very difficult to dress and sand that layer to the stern if the stern post is already in place. My opinion and many might disagree...

 

Cheers,

Alistair

[ringbolt2013]

Definitely do some research on the second planking . There are a few ways to do it. They all finish up well and I don't have a preference. But as with the first

planking...TAKE YOUR TIME!  You are doing so well!!

[Jeff-E]

Hi Ollie,

 

Your first planking is coming along very well. Personally I would fit the keel and stem after completeing the first layer of planking as any adjustments can be made and if there are any small gaps between the planks and the keel these can be covered by the second layer. As Alistair says I wouldn't attach the stern post until the second layer is complete.

 

Keep up the good work she is looking great.

[olliechristo]

Thanks guys, this makes perfect sense to me, the plans said to do it afterwards and i was scratching my head.. I can see that experienced builders, pretty much throw the plans in the bin.. I'm not knocking the kit at all, just has some vague moments and I am so glad to have this forum to steer me in the right direction.. I could have bought the in depth dvd but i'm a glutton for punishment... And i like the way you guys roll.

 

About ten hours since last mention.. I have almost finished the first planking and i have probably made some errors in the way i did stealers I have learned heaps and am thinking the second planking should be easier in some ways. It bends and twists quite easily obviously.. Putting faith in myself

 

I'm keen, i'm excited, learning and happy to get onto the next stages by the weekend. My extra lot of deck planks arrived today so things are rolling in the shipyard... Ollie

Edited December 4, 2013 by olliechristo

[olliechristo]

Okay, Spent another 5 hours, Finished first planking,,    And sanded and fixed any dips in shape of hull with heavy duty filler.. Would rather build up than sand off too much... Amazing how strong the hull feels now its closed up..

 

I have cut up some "Blackbean" (Tropical rainforest hard-wood)     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castanospermum

 

....To make my false keel and rudder etc..   Very happy with how it is progressing and it feels really nice running your hand along the hull..  Thank you all for your support so far.. 

 

A question while i am here, Do most of you make your rudder to be able to move? It doesn't say much in kit, but does say to drill hole through deck for tiller?  Regards Ollie

[Pygothian]

You are doing a fantastic job mate.

[Jeff-E]

Hi Ollie,

 

Your first planking looks very good , neat and smooth.

 

To answer your question I like to make my rudders to be able to move but that is just a personal preference, if the kit is put into a display case it wont matter if it can move or not as you can't move it any way.  You will need to drill a hole through th deck and hull for the rudder so that the tiller can be attached to the head of the rudder, may I suggest that you do this before laying the second planking to avoid damage to the second layer

[olliechristo]

Thanks Rowan,,, Thanks Jeff.. Yes Jeff, I think i will do as much as I can before second planking, it seems popular to cut out gun ports and such before final planking also...   Its hard to show up hulls lines in photo but it feels and looks almost right, a bit more sanding... Thanks again.. Ollie

[ringbolt2013]

I also prefer to have my rudders move. I also put in the tye downs necessary to keep the rudder from movement. My preference.

Your first layer of planking came out very nicely!!  Congrats are in order! Holes go in now or you will shatter the second planking.

Kinda like Jeff said!

 

Tom

[Jim Lad]

Ollie,

 

First planking done is a real milestone.  Don't be in a rush to start the second planking - take your time to run your hands over the hull and look at it carefully from all directions to make sure that it's really smooth and even.  Any short cuts at this stage will show up in the final job.

 

As others have said, cut the hole for the rudder head before you start the second planking.  If the model will be in a case it doesn't matter whether or not it moves, but I like mine to be moveable.

 

John