Filling in between bulkheads

[Kurt Johnson]

What's the general consensus about filling in the space between bulkheads on POB models with balsa ,etc. Other than some strength issues, and excluding bow and transom filler blocks. Does it make much of a difference in planking the hull?

 

Kurt

[realworkingsailor]

Personally I don't think it makes much of a difference, it just creates more work. Some people swear by the method, however.

 

Andy

[SkerryAmp]

I think a lot has to do with the model itself.  If the bulkheads are thin, then filling in a bit or doubling the heads would give you more surface to adhere too.   Where as thicker out of the box bulkheads are an adequate gluing surface.

[Modeler12]

I used styrene foam near the bow and stern. It was easy to do, did add some work, and was not all that helpful. Yes, it gave the planking some extra support, but to add some extra thickness to the bulkheads would do the same thing.

I would not bother again.

[Captain Slog]

Does it make much of a difference in planking the hull?

 

Kurt

It would have overcome an issue I had on my current build and probably will fill the hull on my next.  But would use cheap pine as it is a lot cheaper than balsa, locally for me anyway.

 

Cheers

Slog

[dgbot]

It makes the hull more solid and helps to prevent warping down the road.  It will also make it easier to find the hull's symetry.  You also have more surface to glue your planking down with no shallow dips.

David B

Edited November 2, 2013 by dgbot

[augie]

I will also testify that the blocks keep the ship dead straight so you don't wind up building a banana.

[bushman32]

I prefer to fill in between the bulkheads for the reasons others have stated plus it helps in fairing the hull. Also I don't like double planking, and the wood supplied usually bites, so I mill my own planks and having the spaces filled in helps with single planking.

   Ron W.

[HIPEXEC]

I put extra fill at the bow of my Connie and it gives me more glue surface for the extreme bends I had to do. It's working for me,

[Nirvana]

I think a lot has to do with the model itself.  If the bulkheads are thin, then filling in a bit or doubling the heads would give you more surface to adhere too.   Where as thicker out of the box bulkheads are an adequate gluing surface.

I had to add with material on the sides of the bulkheads as they were much thinner than the material list stated. I used basswood for this.

However I added on with wood at the edge level and about 1cm inwards, didn't see the purpose of covering the whole bulkhead.

It's not as porous as balsa and can handle CA glue much better as well.

As for the filler I used 3/16 basswood against bulkhead and false keel then added with a balsa block. Once that was dried, I "painted" the balsa surface with diluted Titebond I, this way the combination of CA and Titebond I will have plenty of grip area.

[sudomekh]

if you want to show on the model copper plating and mounting boards .... you will not want balsa or foam .... I am not a supporter of these materials

 

linden, pine or something unsteady OK!

[Captain Al]

All very well when the ribbing is a solid bulkhead across the full beam of the ship. What do you do when (1) the ship model has all open ribs, and (2) one side of the model will be left mostly unplanked so the interior details can be seen. In this case, adding material, while perhaps even more important for the strength and trueness of the fore/aft line, becomes much more problematic. What to do? I'm building HMS Bounty with some rad curves stem and stern and its been suggested I add some material to the ribs at least in those areas. I want to take the suggestion but am not sure how. I am thinking (its been suggested by Amfibius) that I use scrap from the templates that the ribs came off of.

[NMBROOK]

All very well when the ribbing is a solid bulkhead across the full beam of the ship. What do you do when (1) the ship model has all open ribs, and (2) one side of the model will be left mostly unplanked so the interior details can be seen. In this case, adding material, while perhaps even more important for the strength and trueness of the fore/aft line, becomes much more problematic. What to do? I'm building HMS Bounty with some rad curves stem and stern and its been suggested I add some material to the ribs at least in those areas. I want to take the suggestion but am not sure how. I am thinking (its been suggested by Amfibius) that I use scrap from the templates that the ribs came off of.

Hi Captain Al

In this case you just fill in between the desired area.Rather than try and explain I include a link to Drazen's log.Notice how he is infilling  between the upperpart of the frames but still leaving the hull hollow.You can do this for the full profile of the hull to one side only.

Kind Regards Nigel

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/911-de-zeven-provinci%C3%ABn-by-dra%C5%BEen-cari%C4%87-scale-1-45-1665/page-3