HMS Greyhound by Old Collingwood - Corel

[hamilton]

Collingwood - looks like you're motoring along...I've never seen or heard of any techniques for lightening the blanks (though I imagine if it's been done then someone on this forum has done it...maybe post a question in the the forum area dedicated to questions about planking.

 

The first thought that comes to my mind is - replace the planking! That might not be an option. Anyway - best of luck

hamilton

[Old Collingwood]

Collingwood - looks like you're motoring along...I've never seen or heard of any techniques for lightening the blanks (though I imagine if it's been done then someone on this forum has done it...maybe post a question in the the forum area dedicated to questions about planking.

 

The first thought that comes to my mind is - replace the planking! That might not be an option. Anyway - best of luck

hamilton

Thanks hamilton,   i will have a look, ive been off a day or two as i have had first a virus attack on my laptop(got that fixed) then a complete windows crash, that even booting could'nt fix so i had to have a new windows instalation.

 

 

C.

[Old Collingwood]

I have been pushing a head with my build and have finaly finished planking the lower deck, i have added a small edge strip against the forward bh, and a similar strip further back although these wont be seen they have helped to strengthen things abit, i have decided after cleaning the deck down, to leave it un-treated as it will not be seen to a great degree.

Here are the current pics...

 

 

C.

[Small Stuff]

Old Collingwood - great work you do! Perhaps these pictures from the NMM 1/48 original model  of 1720 may help:

 

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/40/Sixth_rate_ship_model_3.jpg

 

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c8/Sixth_rate_ship_model_2.jpg

 

The systematic number in the NMM is SLR 0411 and you can find good pictures in Robert Gardiner's The Sailing Figat A History In Shipmopdels, too.

I found a drawing about Lyme in Robert Gardiner's The First Frigats Nine-Pounder And Twelve-Pounder Frigates, 1748-1815. You have got this book in your shelf? (Or you may like to use Chapman's well known Plate LV, No.10.. .http://www.sjohistoriska.se/ImageVaultFiles/id_3085/cf_1803/55.JPG )

 

Edit: http://www.shipwreckworld.com/media/article/images/2008/06/13/118-original-hmsontarioadmiraltydrawing02.jpg

 

Is the AotS book helpful to you also you built Lyme?

 

HTH,

 

yours Stan

Edited November 28, 2013 by Small Stuff

[Old Collingwood]

^^^Thank you very much for taking a look at my build and the references you posted, i have seen the pics of the museum model before, it is basicaly what i am building except i am extending the poop deck a little further to include the mizzan mast, and putting the steps on the edge instead of through the roof.

 

 

C.

[Old Collingwood]

Well ive sorted out how to age planks and simulate the silver/grey color that wood goes when open to the elements, - firstly i purchsed a bottle of cooking vinegar and some metal washing up pan scourers, i found a container with a secure air tight lid and emptied the vinegar into it acompanied by the scourers and left for two days, then today i tested on my completed forward planking area that has been just left un treated, after letting it dry(with the aid of a hairdryer) i was amazed at the effect-its gone light-to mid silver grey just like old wood, i dare say with more applications it might lighten even more, but it depends on how light it should be? 

 

 

C.

[Old Collingwood]

Here is a quick picture to show the first attempt on the forecastle deck with the weathering agent applied.

 

 

C.

[Old Collingwood]

I have continued my build by fitting the false main deck and checking for acurate line and shape, i think it has settled quite well apart from needing abit more shaping and sanding around the bulkheads, i have then started dry fitting both the forecastle deck and poop deck to check for alignment and camber, i have needed to take the hight down abit, as they were giving a scale hight from the bottom of the poop deck and forecastle deck to the main deck of about 9 feet, so i sanded the bulkhead tops down to a scale hight of about 6 feet.

Next i decided to attack the rear cabin window frame work, by fitting a horizontal support roughly half way between decks, i have also added two small supports on the sides.

 

I've also added the oar cutout framework for the horizontal lengths, i have worked on a scale gap of two feet, i imagine this would be about right allowing a two foot square oar opening.

 

Here are the pics.

 

 

C.

Edited December 4, 2013 by Old Collingwood

[Old Collingwood]

I have started working on the top section of hull panking stage 1, so i decided to construct the bottom gun port rail first, i have had the most incredible head ache trying to bend this plank around the forward bulkheads to meet the bowsprite as i did not cut in a channel on the bowsprite to anchor the planks into at that stage.  I remedied this by cutting back this piece of planking to the first b,h, then i am fitting 3 strips of deck planking as they are the same width, and with them stuck together they are about the same thickness as the original, it helps bending around the bow aswel being thinner.

 

 

C.

[Old Collingwood]

I have been carrying on with my first planking of the hull, with bending thinner strips one at a time(three in total) around the sharp angle of the bow, i have left them slightly thicker than the thickness of the normal first planking strips so i can sand them back to get a nice smooth equal profile, this has worked quite well as trying to bend the thicker planks around sutch a tight profile is tricky and the planks just kept bouncing back when set even with ca/strong gp  and wood glue.

I have cut a bearding line into the bowsprit now and this does help with holding the planks, so the desision now is - do i go with the normal thickness of first planking for the rest of the bow sections, or spend more time with thinner strips and as i have done just cut these back to the first buklhead, and join the normal planks thier?.

Anyway its coming on ok i think, slow but methodical and going in the right direction.

[Old Collingwood]

I have been carrying on with my first planking and managed to bend the second level around the bow/bowsprit and continued my way up the poop deck area so i could cut away the bulkhead extrusions stopping me from planking the deck of the poop deck over its full width, as i want to do this with the deck away from the build, to aid test bleaching to get the correct weathered finish i am after.

 

I just hope i am achieving the right look and shape of these attractive frigates?

 

Here's some pics...

 

 

C.

[hamilton]

Looks good Collingwood - I think your initial modifications and measurements have paid off. I would recommend at this point that you build one of the cannons and put together a few of the deck planking strips to set it on and measure the height of the gunports to see what kinds of adjustments (if any) are needed for the planking - particularly at mid-ships where you'll have the open ports....keep up the good work

hamilton

[Old Collingwood]

Looks good Collingwood - I think your initial modifications and measurements have paid off. I would recommend at this point that you build one of the cannons and put together a few of the deck planking strips to set it on and measure the height of the gunports to see what kinds of adjustments (if any) are needed for the planking - particularly at mid-ships where you'll have the open ports....keep up the good work

hamilton

Thank you hamilton, hope all is good with you and the little one,   thank you for the compliment,  i have looked into the correct gun port hight to cannon sizing and have done just as you suggested(great minds think alike lol) and the top of the  darker strip represents the hight of the bottom edge of where the gun ports will be cut out to, and i will add a flat finishing wood rail supported on square section stubs that will go across the top of the gun ports.

 

Whats your feeling about the correct scale thickness of the tops of the hull walls?  i  think about 12-15 inches  or 3-4mm & 100 scale, if this is so it gives me scope to put in three thicknesses of planks - two outside(first and second planking) and an internal bulwark section, also what kind of hight would you construct both the  poop deck and forecastle?  i think about 6 feet.

 

C.

[hamilton]

Hi Collingwood:

 

Whenever my grandfather caught me saying "great minds think alike" he'd always add - "fools seldom differ".....meaning no harm of course! Now I can't hear/read those words without the echo....

 

You will already have noticed, no doubt, that the Corel math does not add up as far as the correct thickness of the bulwarks is concerned. I can't remember exactly, but I think it worked out that if you added up the thickness of the various layers Corel suggests, you'd end up with a bulwark that was .5mm-1mm thicker than the handrail!! My bulwarks came in at 3.5mm thick if I remember - though the exact data is in my build log somewhere.....This allowed for a 4mm wide handrail and a slight overhang on the outboard side. This conforms to your estimates - though I don't know how you've accounted for the planking exactly, thickness wise.....

hamilton

[Old Collingwood]

I have started working on a pattern of -inside and out with the wooden planks for the inside bulwarks, and the first hull planking this helps with cutting out the full gun ports, with strengthening the walls.

 

Here's a couple of pics.

 

 

C.

[Old Collingwood]

I have carried on planking the inside bulwarks and have reached the poop deck area, here i have stopped and concentrated on planking the poop deck instead, but - after checking the kits wood stock i noticed that i had used the wrong wood to deck the forecastle and the start of the poop deck, so off it came with a sharp blade underneath and abit of a light sanding and with the corect planks i started, after several hours i reached the outer edges and i decided to try to fit an outer edge of planking and cut the normal lengths into them, this was hard going at such a scale and thiness of planks  anyway i think i have done a fair job of it, so i sighed a deep breath and sanded and added a light wash of diluted pva to seal it.

I ve also revised my plans abit.

 

Hers the pics

[dragzz]

really nice work u have got going there its nice and clean keep up the great work

[Old Collingwood]

really nice work u have got going there its nice and clean keep up the great work

Thank you,    its sometimes quite hard at this scale but i try my best.

 

 

C.

[Old Collingwood]

After discussing the correct color for aged period decking, i am posting a picture i took of a water pump at castle, i think it gives a good impression of how the decking may look after many years of the elements.

 

 

C.

 

 

[harlequin]

I remember this kit with great fondness, in fact my shrink says I will soon be over the worst of it.......as Hamilton will no doubt testify this kit will drive you to distraction, but stick with it because once the little darling is completed it is actually a very beautiful finished model.

[Old Collingwood]

More progress over the last two days, i have decked the forecastle with the correct planks  and carried on with parts of the first hull planking and sections of the second, i have also finished the inner bulwark planks and sanded ready for painting red ocre, i will do this before planking the main deck to keep piant off it.

 

Any way heres some pics.

 

 

C.

[hamilton]

Looking great Collingwood!

hamilton

[Sailor1234567890]

Agree, looks awesome.

[Old Collingwood]

Looking great Collingwood!

hamilton

Many thanks,    the planking of the hull around the bow has/is being a pain even with soaking the planks in boiling water, as at this scale 1.5mm x 5mm is abit un-flexible to bend, i should/have cut them in half to aid bending.

 

 

C.

[Old Collingwood]

Agree, looks awesome.

Many thanks.

 

 

C.

[hamilton]

Hi Collingwood - I tapered pretty much all the planks at the bow from the deck line to about 1/2 their width. I also soaked them overnight - 1.5mm is thick, but seems also to be standard first planking for Corel. I'll be starting the OcCre Dos Amigos and the first planking for that is 2mm!! This stock might end up getting replaced.....

 

Anyway, I think you're doing a great job - I'm really impressed with the time you've taken to plan out your modifications - I just kind of ran headlong into them  and thus confronted all kinds of little compromises.....bye for now

hamilton

[Old Collingwood]

Hi Collingwood - I tapered pretty much all the planks at the bow from the deck line to about 1/2 their width. I also soaked them overnight - 1.5mm is thick, but seems also to be standard first planking for Corel. I'll be starting the OcCre Dos Amigos and the first planking for that is 2mm!! This stock might end up getting replaced.....

 

Anyway, I think you're doing a great job - I'm really impressed with the time you've taken to plan out your modifications - I just kind of ran headlong into them  and thus confronted all kinds of little compromises.....bye for now

hamilton

Thank you hamilton, i realy appreciate your kind words.

 

 

C.

[Old Collingwood]

I have been carrying on building through our violent storm we have here now, i have been working on shaping the gun ports and constructing the hand rail, this was quite technical as i had to build and attach some small stumps between the bulwarks and the rail, then fashion the rail from a length of 4x1mm then i had to bend this to follow the hull shape.

 

Here are the pics.

 

 

C.

[Sailor1234567890]

Great. She looks really sharp. 

Edited December 26, 2013 by Sailor1234567890

[Old Collingwood]

Great. She looks really sharp. 

Thank you.

 

 

C.