USS Constitution by lambsbk – Revell – 1/96 - PLASTIC – With Fiber Optics

[texxn5]

Hmmm, I hadn't thought about painting the blackened brass. It could be like gun bluing, actually it probably is the same chemical agent (too lazy to look it up). No idea how paint would stick to it.

[lambsbk]

It leaves a matte finish so I am hoping it will take paint well.

[KimatHm]

Hey Mates...!!! Thanks for the comment on the procedure John ! I wish that some of these forums had been around many years ago, myself...!!! So many brilliant, and innovative modifications & techniques that I might have been able to apply & attempt, that I had NO IDEA how to try, except for 'screwing up' horribly, and having to find a way to fix...!!! I'd like to post a web site address that I've used for YEARS, for a man that became so dedicated to the 'Art' of being the 'Shipwright'

he's very well recognized, and has given me personally TONS of inspiration in my builds... The site is ' http://www.tallshipsofsanfrancisco.com , and the gentleman's name is Steve Priske...( can be found just by 'Googleing' his name, in order to find his work...and discoveries...) He is TRULY a GRANDMASTER at ship building, in my opinions...His work is absolutely magnificent, at minimum....I'd look forward to some feedback on his work, if anyone cares to share...??? Thanks Guys !!! Kim

[KimatHm]

Another brief note on Steve Priske, everyone...He's served as a 'Mentor' for me for a many, many, years now, and has also dedicated a HUGE number of hours for the benefit of modelers, and shipwrights directly on 'You-Tube', to share his techniques with a 'visual' effect...One of my all-time favorites, was his method of 'rigging Dead-Eyes' from One Side, without having to turn, or adjust your assembly...Pretty Cool...!!! - Again, check him out, and follow a couple of the links to his builds, and finished ships, for some fantastic info.  ( Incredible...!!! )  Kim

[texxn5]

Thanks Kim I'll check this out.  Sorry to hijack your log Dave

[KimatHm]

My Apologies, also...I believe we, (I) the moderators were able to help me get this info in the proper place for 'Help & Reference' forums... Your work remains inspiring...!!!  Kim

[lambsbk]

Go for it guys. I can't post anything of the build anyway. My wife has vacation bible school this week and I am neck deep in helping her. Next week...back to the build. See you then.

[RadMan]

I've been away a couple of months and just  now catching up with your build.  WOW!  excellent progress and quality workmanship!   I really like the extra detail you are adding to the deck.

[lambsbk]

Whew... vacation bible school is over so back to build work I go. I think I will go ahead and finish the gun deck guns. they have been taunting me of late. From there I will work the mid deck working aftward on the pumps and capstan. The progress will be a little slow at first as I am not certain on my skills to strop the 2mm boxwood blocks I bought for the tackle (Russ - you are right - the Revell blocks just seem too big!) but if I am unable to strop the boxwood blocks and hook them I will fall back on these Revell blocks reluctantly. So I am diving in...hopefully not belly first!

[texxn5]

It will be interesting to see how they turn out for you.

[lambsbk]

Canon Breeching: Round 2

 

I am getting the feel again for lashing and I found (like others) that dilute Elmers glue works very well at holding the lines together when complete. It keeps the breeching line straight and keeps a clean profile. Overall I like the look of these second canons much better than the first.

Edited April 14, 2014 by lambsbk

[lambsbk]

I don't know if anyone has used one of these before or not but they are excellent at cutting small delicate (lines) smoothly. They are dermablades which I use in the office for skin biopsy's but they make quick work of cleanly cutting rigged lines. Like a hot knife through butter - just touching the blade to the item cuts it. It is held by pinching it between thumb and forefinger and has a slight curve for stability. Just FYI.

Edited August 3, 2013 by lambsbk

[lambsbk]

The deck is being prepared for the canons. The jig is positioned and taped. Then the top guides are used to score the ring bolt position . I am using a 1/32" Dremel engraving bit held in a jewelers tool handle. Using the same tool the carriage wheel positions are then scored into the deck, which I hope will hold the canon securely when glued. My first Connie in the 70's had these come loose after the decks were closed in. Arghhh...

Edited August 3, 2013 by lambsbk

[DCooper]

Your jig looks like a winner.  I like how you have slightly dished the wheel positions for better grip.  May I suggest adding a small square of black painted plastic card to the underside of the carriage to add surface area for glueing?  That's what I did and you can't see them once in position.  The last thing we need is loose cannon.  

 

That cutter of yours looks wicked

 

Great to see your progress.

 

Dan

[lambsbk]

Thanks Dan. I just checked your build and you are right: I can't see the stock. I may not be able to do this however. The forward gun ports 1 and 2 will not be used on my build for gun positions. First (Evan confirmed what I already suspected) because the guns could not have been run in and out from these positions and second because the fiber optic lanterns will light up this deck and I want to use these ports to better view the guns in line. So I will have an almost deck level lit view of these guns. I am afraid I am going to have to rely on the wheel glue points to hold them down. The under carriages will be visible. The prototype gun seems to be holding pretty well so far so I am hoping this plan will continue to work. I appreciate the suggestion and I wish I could add the extra security of additional plastic surface area for gluing.

 

Dave

Edited August 3, 2013 by lambsbk

[KimatHm]

Thanks for the Dermablade suggestion & Hint...I'll definitely be purchasing a supply of them...I usually purchase items such as these from

my old Dental supply house, but are they available to the Public (Hopefully !!!) and is there a Major Supplier that you could recommend for us...???

Thanks, Kim

[lambsbk]

Well. I had not thought of that. I will check with Caligor and see if they sell to the general public. Sorry. I should have thought that problem out before posting the pic and comment. I will find out Monday. Thanks Kim.

[youngtiger1]

Dave, awesome work in progress on the Constitution. I have the same kit that I hope to build soon. I spotted couple here that looked awesome work and that sold me on joining this group of fine modelers here. I know, I have a lot to Lear being aviation modeling is my primary focus of modeling but I Lear fast and between yours and other builds I'm taking notes left and right thank you for taking good close-up photos of your WiP.

 

Mike

[RadMan]

Dave, a great idea for prepping the deck for gluing, especially the jig, I would never have thought of that.  In the back of my mind I've been wondering how I would glue the cannons to the deck after putting primer, black, and tan deck paint on... there is no plastic for the glue to stick.  It is an excellent idea, I might just buy myself a dremel when I take a vacation in the states in Nov.

[lambsbk]

Thanks for the kudos Rick. I made it from a styrene sample pack: a couple of square rods stacked, a perpendicular for centering, tube for the ringbolt positions, and a flat thinner piece of styrene sheet for the canon carriage wheel positions. (I tried thick stuff but it was really hard to work with, the second was off dimensionally - this working jig is my 3rd!) I spent some time getting it right but that one being right means the canons will be as well. I did not use a Dremel motor - only the engraving tip (about $7). I simply mounted it in a jeweler's tool holder I found at Sears. It was the first tool I made for this build and I use it a lot for scraping tiny hard to reach areas.

 

Youngtiger1 - welcome aboard. Go ahead and dive in - I think that is the hardest part. Don't rush the build progress. Most of us take on these projects knowing they will be years in the making. Let me know when you start a log and I will follow with you. Sharing ideas is how these builds have become (literally) works of art. Although I have many ideas for its completion, it is also a compilation of a lot of folks on this forum. Good luck.

[lambsbk]

The first 9 guns are installed. They are getting easier as I go. I am much happier with the lashing I am currently using. The pic below shows both. The upper canon has the lashing tied in a proper but not very appealing knot. The bottom canon has the lashing which is not exactly ship shape but looks much neater. I am sticking with the second.

 

 

The lantern looks good in this photo.

[lambsbk]

This is a slightly different angle showing the 'gravity' effect on the breeching line. Obviously a little touch up paint is needed here.

 

Dave

[russ]

The breechings and the guns look very good. I agree that the seizing looks great. Nice details.

 

Russ

[youngtiger1]

Thank you for the kind and positive works Dave. I working toward have a workbench soon. Just need to win it over from the wife to see where I can put it Btw, I haven't caught up reading your complete log on this kit and I was wondering are you using after market ropes, and threads to do all of the rigging, etc? If so, are they in 1/96 scale format? I know, in wood ships most guys try to use these kind of items for appropriate representation of scale. Since this is plastic model kit being build among wood model ships. Just curious.

 

Mike

[lambsbk]

Actually I have TWO kits. The second was purchased cheaply and I use it to experiment technique when needed. That is why I have extra eyebolts as well. The rigging line is from the original kit. I suspect it is all cotton but it looks better in my opinion (see page 1 of this log for pic). If you are looking for more line or to replace the lines Chuck Passaro (one of the originators of MSW) has a store which has excellent materials. I bought some anchor cable and blocks as well as tackle line from the store. You will see these showing up over the next few pages of this log. His store link is http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/. I hope that info helps.

Edited August 5, 2013 by lambsbk

[lambsbk]

I have had a few inquiries about the lanterns I made for this build. I will try to give a detailed account of how I did that. Only a few basic tools are needed and plastic stock. I'll get that description posted over the next few days for those interested.

 

Dave

[youngtiger1]

Dave, thanks for the link to the web masters store. Looks like there is a lot of cool stuff in there. btw, I too will be interested to see how you did the lanterns. They look very nice.

[wedge]

very impressive.

[Torrens]

I agree; an impressive - and different - approach to plastic kit building!

[RadMan]

I am enjoying the progress on your gun lashings.  I am also not happy with the Revell attachments for the breeching to the bulwark.  In fact, when I was first trimming plastic for the hull, I almost trimmed them off as injection marks.  They are suppose to have a small crack in the post where you insert the line, but most of mine are completely fused due to bad injection quality.

 

I don't know how you were able to safety drill into the hull and mount eyebolts.  The bulwark is maybe 1-2 mm thick, and I think it would be really easy to drill through the hull and if the hole wasn't deep enough, the eye bolts wouldn't stay firmly fastened.  So, great work!  I am considering doing this now.   I just need to make my shopping list of things to get.  Did you say you had a source for where to buy small brass eyebolts?

 

Also, are you painting the underside of the spar deck (ceiling to the gun deck) white??

Edited August 8, 2013 by RadMan