Torrens

It’s not a quibble, but a perfectly legitimate observation - in this case based on practical, sea-going experience on Scottish fishing boats. If you’re happy for a model to be inaccurate, that’s your choice, but don’t criticise others if they are of a different opinion.

Do you know what the dimensions of the full size vessel was in feet and inches?

I would avoid any contact with water! Not good - and particularly not good in the 'nooks and crannies' as these are the places where rust will develop (unless the base material is brass, as were most of the better quality draughting instruments). A medium soft artists brush is the best method of removing excess polish.

I have a number of these drawing instrument sets, the majority by Kern, from Switzerland (from when I was working as an information and technical illustrator - long before computers made real draughting skills redundant!). The best material to clean them with is jewellers rouge paste or red jewellers polishing compound, applied with an electric mini drill, with a final hand polish using lint free cloths. Never use anything remotely abrasive, even the finest grade steel wool, as this will damage the chrome plating. And certainly never use any acid-based cleaning liquid, regardless of how much it's been diluted.

For the past six months, if not longer, few Hegner scroll saws are available in the UK! Almost all are listed as 'currently unavailable'! I've registered my interest and have emailed the company and their UK distributor, but have heard nothing! Very frustrating as a Hegner scroll saw is what I would like!

Interesting responses! Thank you! It would seem I need to do more practical research, but that will probably have to wait until the coronavirus lockdown is lifted... However, one reason for needing a bandsaw is not just for modelling, but also for small DIY projects that often require a certain degree of accuracy in cutting. In addition to a band saw, I also need a scroll saw as the one I have no longer works (it cannot be repaired). Any recommendations?

No doubt this is not a new topic, but for me it is...! I would like to get a bandsaw; one that can cope with fine work as well as ‘rough’ cutting - although the emphasis for me is on accuracy, including tight curves (or as tight as possible). I’ve done extensive ‘research’, but I’m now overwhelmed by the sheer number of ‘reviews’, many of which leave so many questions unanswered, not the least about quality, etc. (I live in the UK, which may or may not restrict my choices.) What would others recommend, and why? With thanks in anticipation!

I was interested in the post regarding whether the crew slept in the focsle or in the deck house. On the north European side of the pond, most vessels of this size and period the crew did sleep in a focsle. A single deck house would often have the galley and, space permitting, accommodation for ‘senior ratings’, such as the bosun, carpenter (if carried) and the cook. All others would be down below in the focsle. Typical examples include classic British West Country schooners, and similar from Germany, France and the Scandinavian countries. Whilst I haven’t checked against the plans, I would suggest that the deck house on Leon is too small to accommodate all of the crew and the galley. There are also numerous references sources, such as the books by Basil Greenhill, that clearly show focsle accommodation for the crew. Indeed, on many coastal sailing vessels the deck house was the galley, nothing else. Another important factor, or question, is why the need for a dedicated companionway when the crew are accommodated in the deckhouse? A companionway would not be necessary to gain access to the hold, as this would be done via the hatches (and there’s plenty of photographic evidence to support this). A dedicated companionway is a clear indication of a focsle for the crew.

In the interests of balance, my personal experience of ordering from Seawatch Books has been excellent, from ordering through to the receipt of a book. If a book is in print, I've always received a prompt response every time following the placement and payment of an order. I do not order books until they are in print. The reason is nothing to do with Seawatch, but because, as they often make clear on their website, they are waiting on authors to deliver before they can start the production process (a frustrating example being Volume Two of The Rogers Collection of Dockyard Models). These delays obviously impact on planned publication dates, so it's always best to wait until Seawatch confirm, via their website, that a book is available. Anyway, it's good that Bryan received his copy of the aforementioned book as I'm sure he's as delighted with it as I have been!

My apologies! I should have made myself clearer! I posted my original question not for myself, but to see what other members considered was the most accurate wooden kit currently available - and more as a discussion topic than anything else, although it's always interesting to hear from the manufacturers themselves, including the designers. My question is not as subjective as it might seem, for there are numerous examples of where kit manufacturers short-cuts show a divergence from historical and technical accuracy for cost or other reasons (and for 'other reasons' I believe it's because of inadequate initial research). I fully understand and recognise that if you want as close to technical and historical accuracy as possible, it will always be necessary to either significantly improve on an existing kit, or build from 'scratch' (but this wasn't the point of my question). That this is more the case with wooden kits than injection moulded plastic kits is obvious (plus there are, for many plastic kits, numerous third party up-grade sets). Within these caveats, what wooden kits do members believe, in their experience, are the most accurate?

Hi Anthony As the Bryne saw is made in the USA, is there a problem with the difference in voltage between the USA and the UK? If so, how did you resolve it?

Even though I was referring specifically to the external appearance of a ship, I understand the point you're making; if you want maximum accuracy you have to scratch-build (awful term!). However, that's not within everyone's grasp and, for many, kits are their only option. It's on this basis that I posed my question. I also agree with you about Model Shipways or Bluejacket kits - far more accurate than comparable kits made in Europe. But maybe I'm wrong; maybe there are kits by European manufacturers that are as accurate?

From my experience, serious ship model kits from the US tend to be far more accurate than comparable models manufactured in Europe. That said, I do understand the 'problems' in making a kit where the frames follow full-size practice. The nearest example that I can think of is the kit of a Great Lakes brig by The a wood supplier, in Ohio.

Where to start! I could mention specific kits or manufacturers but that's not my question! However, to highlight just a few examples of details, most kits have over-scale belaying pins; most kits of vessels carrying boats show the boats with over-scale scantlings, etc, etc. What I'm really interested to know is what other members consider are the most accurate, particularly externally (far better to be positive than to be negative by slating one particular kit - I leave that to the reviewers!). I posted the question because a friend asked for a recommendation, but wanted a kit that matched the original as close as possible.

I'm familiar with ring net boats and Fifies, having sailed as a guest on the former when they still fished Loch Fyne, etc, and I've sailed on the restored Fife Reaper (owned by the Scottish Fisheries Museum). I know ring net boats (derived from Fifies and Zulus) came in different hull lengths, and many had very small wheelhouses - often with only enough space for just one crew member, but in this kit the wheelhouse looks exceptionally small. Be interesting to see the plans from which the kit was based.

Regardless of whether sail or power, I'd be interested to know which wooden kit members believe is the most accurate, particularly of an historic subject? So many kit manufacturers take short-cuts, some of which are clearly because of manufacturing processes and to keep costs reasonable. However, numerous manufacturers seem not to be too bothered by the accuracy of their interpretation of the original.

Excellent choice for a kit! However, comparing the photos posted here to the drawings in Karl Heinz Marquardt's Anatomy of the Ship HMS Beagle (1997) it looks very crude. It would probably require a significant amount of correction and/or scratch building to bring the model up to a reasonable standard of accuracy (the sails are certainly out-of-scale and should be discarded!).

Interesting looking kit, although the wheelhouse looks too small relative to the hull. I know the scale is 1:32, but what is the full-size length and beam in metres or feet?

If I remember correctly, the Carrick was the name given to the City of Adelaide when she was an RNR training ship in Glasgow. The late Harold A Underhill was commissioned to carry out a survey of the Carrick when there were early plans to restore her to something akin to her original appearance as the City of Adelaide, but this never progressed. On Underhill’s untimely death his archives were donated by his wife to the National Maritime Museum, Greenwich. If these archives still exist it’s possible that the drawings Underhill produced as part of his survey still survive. The attitude of the South Australian government is sadly symptomatic of many when it comes to ship restorations. Here in Scotland there’s only superficial interest in getting the Falls of Clyde returned to Glasgow; there’s certainly not the money or public commitment that, in comparison, has made the restoration of the Peking in Hamburg so impressive.

Surprised that there’s no mention of the Royal Navy sail training brigs (Martin, Seaflower, Pilot, etc, etc). As for the four-masted barque Peking, the ongoing restoration in Hamburg is being detailed on Facebook and you can sign up for updates via the Peking website, albeit in German. Of note is the fact that many large Hamburg-based corporations, including the city itself, have ensured that this restoration has the necessary resources. This is evidenced by the fact that no other historic ship has been restored so quickly, with no compromise on quality.

I should add that none of the planks/boards have warped; they are as straight as when first cut back in the late 1970s! Also, the planks are as shown in the photos (taken earlier today). They are less than 3” wide. This means that some of Jagger’s advice might be irrelevant??? It might help if I took photos of the surface of a sample plank, if only to show that the surface is not as rough as might be suggested or implied in my original post. Time permitting, I’ll try and do this tomorrow. And in answer to Jaager’s opening questions, the scale will be 1:64 (Imperial), whilst the stock is planned to be used for framing, etc.

Many, many years ago I bought a Brazilian boxwood trunk. I had it rough sawn into planks ranging from 3/4” to 1/16” thicknesses (see attached photos). The planks are about 36” long. I now want to use this now well-seasoned wood for a model, but I need to finish the timber before I can use it. I’m seeking advice as to the best and most accurate way to achieve a smooth surface finish with a consistent thickness throughout the length of each plank. Should I use a planner/sander, or...? With thanks in advance!

Interesting topic...! Books that made a significant and lasting impression on me when I was a teenager up to the age of about 20 include the following (in no particular order); Sail: the Romance of the Clipper Ships. Three volumes. Basil Lubbock and Jack Spurling The Tall Ships Pass. W L A Derby Deep-Water Sail. Harold A Underhill Plank-on-Frame Models. Two volumes. Harold A Underhill The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships. C Nepean Longridge Shipbuilding in Miniature. Donald McNarry The complete works of Basil Lubbock The Tea Clippers. David R MacGregor The Merchant Schooner. Two volumes. Basil Greenhill Mother Sea. Ellis Karlson British Battleships. Oscar Parkes The Great Age of Sail. Edited by Basil Bathe The Way of a Ship. Alan J Villiers Sailing Ships of the Romantic Era. Edita Lausanne The Last Grain Race. Eric Newby The Ship. Bjorn Landstrom Unter Selegn Rund Kap Horn. Gunther T Schulz A Handbook of Sailing Barges. F S Cooper and John Chancellor Sails Through the Centuries. Sam Svensson and Gordon Macfie Many of the above I came across either through my local library or through the reference library at Tower Hamlets in east London. I now have them all in my own collection. I refer to all of the above frequently, if only because of the pleasure they first gave and still give! Interesting to note that most are now out-of-print. Since 1970, the above list could be added to, including the works by Edgar J March, Howard I Chapelle, etc, etc, but the list would become far too long! Edit: whilst I've interpreted this topic loosely, to list my favourite or impressionable ship modelling books would also be too long for here! However, some have been included above!

I don't want to be a kill-joy, but because this book tried hard to be all things to all men when it came to the technology of sail, covering such a long time period with all the inherent complexities of such a development, much had to be omitted in order to arrive at a book that was saleable and useable! The resulting compromise made for a book that has little relevance or use to the serious student of sail but does have an appeal for the more general reader! Basil Bathe, Alan Villiers and George Naish 'lent' their names to this publication as a means to improve sales and give greater credibility to the contents (I'm not suggesting that the contents are inaccurate or misleading, quite the opposite). All three were experts in their respective fields; Basil Bathe was the curator of the watercraft collection at the Science Museum, South Kensington, London (until the NMM opened this was one of the finest ship model collections in the world); George Naish was an expert on sailing warships and a long-standing member of the curatorial staff of the NMM (under both Frank Carr and Basil Greenhill); whilst Alan Villiers was an expert on the last days of merchant sail - he was also a qualified master and former owner of such ships. The 'problem' with such books is that in trying to cover such a vast canvas they become tertiary reference sources, if indeed they reach such heights! I have a copy but doubt I've referred to it once since I bought it new many years ago! There are far more comprehensive and individual studies for most of the periods touched upon in this book that makes it superfluous - hence me not having used it since new!

The Construction of the Sailing Man of War, 1650-1850, by Peter Goodwin, was published in May 1987 by Conway Maritime Press Ltd, London. When sold through the US Naval Institute Press, it was re-titled with the word English added to differentiate between US and RN practice. The contents of both titles is identical. Hope this helps.