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HMS Ballahoo by jim_smits - FINISHED - Caldercraft

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I have now managed to assemble the two deck pumps and add to the build.

 

Always find putting these together a bit of a faff. Anyway, filed down all the white metal castings and ensured that all the hinge points met and would take a pin. I used a length of walnut dowel for the base of the pump and drilled a hole down the centre to take the deck pin and pump assembly. Also cut a notch in the side to make gluing the housing of the handle a little more solid.

 

primed and painted the metal parts and reassembled with a touch of cyano in places. Had to touch up the paint in a couple of spots. Finally pinned to pre-drilled holes in the deck.

 

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Nice bit of progress in the last couple of days. Added belaying pins to the four pin rails, and added cleats to the various points across the hull and deck.

 

Still need to add a few more eyelets to the deck and the hull but I want to confirm which of these require a block to be seized before fixing the eyelet in place.

 

And then I shall be moving onto shaping the masts and bowspirit.

 

 

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Thanks for the likes everyone.

 

Got an update of the last few days work. I have now finished the bowspirit and the two masts. Used a davids plane to taper the bowspirit and the sanded extensively with multiple grades to give a nice smooth tapered finish. The two masts were carved using a sharp scalpel to shape the top section and then careful planning to taper the main section towards the top, finishing with sandpaper again.

 

Decided to follow the paint scheme of my Snake build and paint the masts and bowspirit in yellow ochre. Then spent a while drilling a variety of holes to fit the mast cleats and also to allow eyepins and blocks.

 

For the eyepins with blocks I followed the same methodology I used for my carronade rigging and again was pleased with the results. The blocks on the bowspirit were attached in much the same way to simulate a strop.

 

The bowspirit has been pinned into place, whilst the two masts have been inserted into the deck but not fixed or glued at all.

 

Onto standing rigging....!

 

 

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Crackin Good Stuff there Jim !  Was it difficult to taper the masts and do that 'cone' shape 2/3rds of the way up ?

 

Eamonn

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Cheers Eamonn!

 

I wouldn't say hard but I had to take it slow and steady. I marked two bands 6mm apart at a point on the dowel leaving about 5mm leeway at top and bottom.

 

Scored these two bands with a scalpel down to the approx depth required, about 1mm. Then very carefully shaved flakes away to form the cone and taper the top. Finished off with sandpaper to smooth back to the circular cross section.

 

As I say, not too hard just take your time and use a fresh blade with lots of small strokes.

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Thanks Mate.. I'll be back to Ballier shortly after a Summer break (though am hitting Venice for a few days Holliers in middle of next month, so will try to get going before that) am currently waiting on some replacement carronades (Brass) ordered a few weeks ago, and will see if I can blacken them (Cornwall MB are out of stock at the mo, as we know they often show 'in stock' when ordering but found out today that they are temp out.. Oh Well)  Might not suit (dimension wise) Ballahoo but we'll see shortly.. hopefully shortly that is  :P

 

All The Best

 

Eamonn

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A quick question for you guys as I can't seem to find a quick answer.

 

I am about to add some rudder straps onto the ballahoo but I am unsure if the straps would be left as the bare metal or would they have been overpainted with white stuff?

 

Answers on a postcard to......

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White straps is a "safe" option Jim, but I'd prefer any other color to create a kind of contrast...

Edited by Stergios

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Hey there Jim,  I suspect in 'reality' over-painting would have been done to protect them a little.. we won't get into Galvanic's  :huh:  :huh:  :rolleyes: .. but I'm with ye chaps in that I too like the contrast of painting them black (or chemical blackening as the case may be)

I will be Blackening mine when the time comes (by paint or chemical or even the use of black card)

 

Hope this is of some use mate ! 

 

Eamonn

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Progress is continuing.

 

Moved onto rigging the ship. Got the shrouds on the foremast in place. I served a section of each shroud which was to be secured around the mast. The first two shrouds on each side were formed from one length which was seized to form a loop around the mast.

 

Deadeyes were then attached to the bottom of the shrouds using a couple of lengths of brass wire to act as a spacer between the deadeye on the channel and the deadeye to be attached to the shroud. Then seized the deadeye in place and painted some dilute PVA into the seizings to fix all in place.

 

I've added the lanyards but these are not fully tight as I will tweak the tension later.

 

Also now painted over the rudder straps as per replies from everyone.

 

 

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Quick update on the Ballahoo.

 

Onto my favourite task of tying ratlines..... Gone with the tan line and it interesting to see the contrast to the black shrouds. Only got as far as the port side so far but making progress.

 

I draw a paper template for the shrouds and the spacing of the ratlines and used this to tie every fourth ratline. Double checked the spacing and then added every second and finally filled the gaps. Once the spacing was sorted I fixed in place with some diluted PVA, allowed to dry and trimmed of the ends.

 

Still got a bit to do towards the top end and then onto the starboard side.

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Fine work Jim, I like that contrast to the shrouds.

Do u use the lines of the kit or aftermarket supplies?

Have u used any kind of beewax in advance?

Thanks.

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Cheers guys.

 

I've done the ratlines in 0.25mm thread supplied with the kit. All tied in clove hitches and then soaked in watered PVA glue.

 

To trim off the ends I just used a pair of tweezers and a sharp scalpel.

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Right then, time for an update!

 

Got a few bits done. Added ratlines to the foremast shrouds, decided to go with natural thread for the ratlines. Really like the contrast between the shrouds and the ratlines. Still don't enjoy tying loads of love hitches but hey ho, it's got to be done. Shouldn't really complain as there aren't that many. Wait until I get onto Diana and Victory....

 

Completed the foremast stay. Used the serving machine to serve around 6cm of line, then passed back and forth several times over a 5mm length to build up a mouse. Each pass was painted with a dab of diluted PVA to help hold the mouse together. Finished off with a further couple of centimetres of serving.

 

Added a loop in the end of the stay by folding the stay back on itself, holding in place using a set of helping hands and then added a false splice to complete the loop. Passed the other end of the stay through the loop and tightened until the mouse was snugly set in the loop and added to the top of the foremast. Added in a deadeye as per the shrouds and threaded in the lanyard.

 

Finally, rigged in the bobstay from the bowsprit to the front of bow with a rigging hook.

 

 

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That looks fantastic Jim, am loving the Mouse !! Oh and the contrast between the Shrouds & Ratlines is brillo too.. will have to give it serious consideration :) 

 

All The Best Mate

 

Eamonn 

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As promised to Stergios I have documented my method for producing one of the shrouds.

 

Started off with a suitable length of 0.75mm black thread for the shroud line and mounted up into the serving machine.

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Passed a needle through the shroud.

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Threaded the needle with Gutermann thread for the serving.

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Passed the needle and thread through the shroud line.

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Repeat at 90 degrees.

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Knot the end, trim and paint with some diluted PVA and allow to dry.

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To serve hold the Gutermann thread between finger and thumb to keep taut but still allow to pass through as the serving machine is rotated.

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I estimated that I needed 8cm served for the top loop of the shrouds.

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Keeping the tension in the thread, cut off and thread through a needle and pass through the shroud line twice, tie off and paint with PVA.post-465-0-24231300-1415733902_thumb.jpg

 

Once complete the loose ends can be trimmed back to the main line with tweezers and a sharp scalpel.

 

 

 

 

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That looks fantastic Jim, am loving the Mouse !! Oh and the contrast between the Shrouds & Ratlines is brillo too.. will have to give it serious consideration :)

 

All The Best Mate

 

Eamonn 

Yeah, that contrast is unique!!

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The served line can now be added to the mast by creating a loop and seizing.

 

First looped round the mast and used a clamp to hold in place.

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Again using Gutermann, the loop can be seized by tying half knots alternatively over and under. First knot over....

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Loop is more secure and add second knot under.

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Repeat until the seizing is of a suitable length and paint with dilute PVA.

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Once dry the ends can be trimmed with tweezers and scalpel.

 

Repeat for other shrouds required and then onto deadeyes at the bottom of the shroud.

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The served line can now be added to the mast by creating a loop and seizing.

 

First looped round the mast and used a clamp to hold in place.

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Again using Gutermann, the loop can be seized by tying half knots alternatively over and under. First knot over....

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Loop is more secure and add second knot under.

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Repeat until the seizing is of a suitable length and paint with dilute PVA.

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Once dry the ends can be trimmed with tweezers and scalpel.

 

Repeat for other shrouds required and then onto deadeyes at the bottom of the shroud.

Dear Jim

thank you so much for your pictures and comments. Those were exactly the steps of the shrouds rigging and serving, I wanted to understand better: looping and seizing around the mast.

Thanks again mate !!  :cheers:

Edited by Stergios

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Jim

could we re-serve (for the desire length of the seizing) the already served two branches of the shroud to obtain a more unique seizing-appearance than that of the half-knots?

What do you think?

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Stergios

The half knots when alternated will pretty much look identical to served line. This is pretty much the only method I got to work that will create a tight loop around the mast.

On the Snake you'll also have a couple of shrouds that are single lines. For these you'll need to do a false splice.

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Jim

do you serve the entire length of the shrouds (from the top loop to the looping rope edge to the deadeyes)?

Thanksn again.

Edited by Stergios

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