Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Nice idea for the curtains Sean. What did the kit provide for window glazing? Is it still that awful blue celluloid that originally came with my kit, or have they replaced it with something better these days? Or are you going to do your own thing with this?

Posted

They give you those ridiculous greenish plastic window molds that look like they came from a snap right car kit. I've been experimenting with the Testors window making glue that I found laying around in my modeling supplies and have had great results with that.

 

Very transparent but with enough distortion to look like very old glass.

Posted (edited)

Grant,

Did you do a bearding/rabbet line on yours before planking? The instructions don't mention it anywhere and I'm at the point where I have to start beveling the frames so thought in would ask.

Edited by EinsteinTaylor
Posted

Hi Sean,

 

No, I didn't do a beading/rabbet line - mainly because way back then I didn't even know what one was!!! ;)

 

Your solution to windows sounds similar to mine - I found a product sold by Micromark that paints on like diluted white PVA and dries to a clear solid finish, with that antique glass look. You should be very happy with the results you get from that approach.

Posted

Hmm...well with as fantastic as yours looks, and with the fact that the plans don't seem to specify such, I'd be afraid to just freehand my own and am now considering leaving Rabbet/Bearding out.  

 

Thoughts from anyone?

Posted

Mine is probably not the best example to use for a reference Sean - you really don't want to look too closely at some aspects of it! ;)

 

I think if I were in your position now, I probably would put in the bearding line/rabbet - I suspect it will make the hull planking easier/better. With all the advice and support from the knowledgeable folks here, you can't really go wrong.

 

But then again, you're the Captain, so it's your choice ultimately.

Posted

I think I should be able to get the lines roughed in using McKay's book and get started on that.  The timing works out pretty well because I think my brother has made me a steamer box for christmas(haven't made it to see that part of the family yet to do christmas with them) so that should help with plank bending.

 

Also ordered Longridge the other day so excited for that new reading material to come in.

Posted
Posted

Now that I've got my lathe figured out, I'll be taking a break from victory to do the rigging on my San Mateo.

I'll also be studying Longridge during that time to get a handle on planking patterns.

Posted

Nice to see planking started Sean. You might want to investigate a more sturdy work surface though mate - that picture looks like a disaster waiting to happen to me.

Posted

Well, that's something of an improvement - enough to restore your honour at least! ;)

 

That chair looks pretty comfy, but it's gonna get interesting as the build progresses. I think I'll sit back in my own comfy chair and watch the modelling space evolve with the build. This could be fun! :D

Posted

Changes to the Admiral's guest room must be done incrementally so she doesn't notice too much happening at once.  Although there is something to be said for a big comfy throne and ipad for Netflix(err...I mean research).

 

I also have a workbench in the garage with a proper working stool and what not if the build begins to require it.

Posted

Changes to the Admiral's guest room must be done incrementally so she doesn't notice too much happening at once.  Although there is something to be said for a big comfy throne and ipad for Netflix(err...I mean research).

 

I also have a workbench in the garage with a proper working stool and what not if the build begins to require it.

Or, you could make such a mess in the lounge room that the Admiral actually orders you to make whatever changes are necessary in the guest room (thus re-named as the shipyard). Worked for me....... :D;)

 

Good to hear you've got a proper set-up in the garage too - you'll make use of that as you progress, especially if you start scratching some parts.

Posted

Longridge just arrived :)

 

Got it used on Amazon for under $40.  The receipt from when it was purchased in 1991 was still in the book, and I don't think it has been opened since.  Looks like an awesome book that should inspire a great deal of kit bashing.

Posted

Working on fitting the gun ports for the top deck. As has been noted by others, the precut slots do not at all line up with the deck height.

 

You can see my test fit cannon as I fit each port one at a time.

post-8967-0-06444700-1390458166_thumb.jpg

Posted

That's the right way to go about it Sean (if you REALLY do want to use those metal ports ;) ). Wish I could convince you otherwise, but it's your build and your choice. Making sure they get placed at the correct height is critical here. What approach are you planning for aligning the ports on the lower gun decks, with the false guns?

Posted (edited)

I have two main fears with trying to scratch build that many frames. 1) I don't have the material to build them and 2) I think I would struggle building that many consistent frames.

 

I've been pondering that exact question as I work on this first row.

 

The two approaches I'm weighing right now are either to use the existing slots for the bottom two decks since they are already set to follow the curvature of the hull and what not. Or...to use a set number of planks(2 seems to be right) from the bottom of the first gun frames.

 

I would welcome any input in that regard.

Edited by EinsteinTaylor
Posted (edited)

If the upper row of slots didn't line up properly, it's unlikely that the other two will. I would suggest you choose one around midships and use that as your "datum" and then make sure that the others are either a consistent distance below the upper ports, or place a batten (temporary) along the top or bottom of your new datum port to ensure a fair line. The use of a batten is probably how I'd go with this, but check distances as well and also stand back and see if the line is pleasing to the eye.

Edited by gjdale
Posted

It looks(for now at least) that three planks will be about perfect to space it. At 3 planks it lifts the 2nd deck line by right about the same amount as the first deck had to be adjusted so that seems like it would keep the factory proportions in place.

 

Subject to change after researching in Longridge

Posted

Use a set number of planks, it isn't 2 planks, The distance is about 12mm if I remember correctly. So use 2x5mm and something that is 2mm, or just guess the 2mm part and leave it open to be filled with offcuts.

Kits owned: Mamoli Royal Louis, Mamoli Friesland, Mamoli HMS Victory 1:90, Occre Santisima Trinidad, Constructo HMS Prince

Posted

Progress is progress Sean, no matter the speed. Just remember to enjoy the journey - the destination will take care of itself.

Posted

Sean,

 

Your Victory is looking to be very good at its start.

 

Though when I saw your work station it brought a big smile to my face, as it reminded me of my elaborate set up as well. I don't mean to step on your build log with a photo from my end, but just to let you know you're not the Lone Ranger out there. At least you have an admiral's chair, I used to sit on the side of the bed (:-)  

 

Cheers

 

MIchael

post-735-0-38418800-1391011159_thumb.jpg

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...