Chain plates

[Bill97]

I will do that mtaylor. I had not investigated the parts in the kit that closely yet. I was not expecting there to be something to represent the chains in the kit. Will have to check. 

[popeye2sea]

The kit does not have chains.  They instruct you to install eye bolts into the hull and connect the deadeye strops to the eyebolts with string. That is why I made my own chains.

 

Regards,

[Bill97]

mtaylor the kit has you use thread I guess. There are no chains, plastic or otherwise, included in the kit. I may be able to guesstimate the link sizes. Just have to get the correct solder (whatever that is) and start practicing

[allanyed]

Hi Bill,

If you are going to have the ends of a brass or copper link butt, with or without a diagonal edge, low temp silver solder paste works nicely and will hold well compared to soft solder.   If the links are very small diameter material, I have found that high temp silver solder and an appropriate torch may be difficult to work without melting the link itself.

 

As you mention, practice, practice, practice.  It usually works wonders, my golf game being a big exception.😀

 

Allan

[Bill97]

Thanks allanyed. I am going to be using an adjustable temp soldering iron and .5 mm brass wire joining the ends of pieces together to make small chain links and deadeye loops. So with this specific tool, material, and plan what solder would you recommend?  Would silver solder paste work with a soldering iron?

 

I have to agree with you completely about practice and golf. 😊 Years of playing and practice have yet to improve my game. Still really enjoy playing. 
 

Bill

[allanyed]

Bill,

 

My favorite is called "Solder It" Silver bearing soldering paste.   

It works with my soldering iron and it has worked very well for me.  I try to stay with copper wherever possible as it blackens so easily with liver of sulfur in situ which is a big plus for many of us.  Brass also works OK although I prefer higher temp solder for brass.   Also, since Blacken It has gone off the market, I have gone Birchwood Casey for blackening brass and this must be done before installing the piece. 

 

Allan

 

[Bill97]

Thanks Allan so much. I will look for that. I already have the brass wire unopened. If I want to use the Solder-It with my iron would you suggest I return the brass wire and purchase copper?  I am going to be making my chain plates and blackening them. 
 

it is probably obvious I have never soldered tiny craft items. Only copper pipes for plumbing. Want to make sure I have everything I need and learn how to do it. I have a 80w soldering iron with adjustable temp up to 900 degrees. 

[allanyed]

I have used copper and brass with good results.  Both have advantages and disadvantages.  Brass rod stays stray except where you bend it.  Copper is softer so more difficult for the straight portions.  Blackening copper with diluted liver of sulfur is very easy and as mentioned can be done once the piece is in place.  Brass needs to be done off the model as brass blackening agents will stain the wood.   Try some test pieces then choose which YOU like best for the links.

Allan

[Bill97]

Thanks Allan. I planned to make the chain links and other chain plate parts and drop them in Birchwood Casey blackening agent prior to assembling on the ship. I am following Daniel’s chain plate guide.

[Bill97]

Allan I have an additional solder question if you don’t mind. I noticed on the information about Solder-it that is nontoxic. I had not even thought about solder being toxic. I guess the solders containing lead or considered toxic?  If so, would that be from the fumes that might come up or lead residue that could be on your fingers if you were to transfer them to your mouth? Very interesting. I just want to use safe soldering practice if that is the case. 

 

By by the way, did you have any issues with Ivan?  Number of friends and family in the Ft Myers and Tampa area. Some did not fare well others came out OK. 

 

Bill

[Captain Shaun]

28 minutes ago, Bill97 said:

Allan I have an additional solder question if you don’t mind. I noticed on the information about Solder-it that is nontoxic. I had not even thought about solder being toxic. I guess the solders containing lead or considered toxic?  If so, would that be from the fumes that might come up or lead residue that could be on your fingers if you were to transfer them to your mouth? Very interesting. I just want to use safe soldering practice if that is the case. 

 

By by the way, did you have any issues with Ivan?  Number of friends and family in the Ft Myers and Tampa area. Some did not fare well others came out OK. 

 

Bill

Hi Bill. I use lead free solder most of the time. I do wear gloves and a respirator when using leaded solder, can't be too safe.

Here's a link to a good reference article. 

https://www.qtsolder.com/what-is-lead-free-solder/

 

Shaun

[allanyed]

4 hours ago, Bill97 said:

By by the way, did you have any issues with Ivan?  Number of friends and family in the Ft Myers and Tampa area. Some did not fare well others came out OK. 

Thank you for asking!   We are 24 miles to the beach so were lucky.   We lost cable for a little over a day and phones were wonky but we never lost power or water.    Friends west of us were hit very hard.  Some are back to normal, others are months/year away from some form of normalcy with the need for gutting interiors and replacing floors, walls, utilities and furniture.  

 

Because they state that the product is non-toxic does not mean that other products are toxic.  I think the comments on lead above are what they were addressing as we all know lead is to be avoided if at all possible.   

I suppose each product you consider using should be investigated as much as possible.

 

Allan

[Dr PR]

I have used lead bearing solders for at least 60 years, with no "toxic" effects.

 

Lead is toxic if you eat it - as with the early lead soldered metal food containers. And it is toxic if you drink it - as with water delivered in lead pipes or copper pipes with lead solder joints. But you have to eat or drink a lot of it.

 

Just momentarily handling lead solders is not hazardous. Soldering does not produce hazardous lead vapors. Maybe if you handled lead or soldered for hours daily for years you might suffer toxic effects. But occasional hobby work is not going to cause problems.

 

I do like to have adequate ventilation to remove the smoke and fumes from the fluxes used with soldering. They are probably more "dangerous" than the lead. And it is a good idea to wash your hands with soap after handling soldered pieces because brass, copper, tin and lead are all metals with possible toxic side effects.

 

The problem with lead solders is that objects carrying lead soldered parts (electronics circuit boards, etc.) are/were being disposed of in city dumps where the lead can leach out into the water table. This is why lead bearing solders have been banned, not because they pose a direct hazard to people using them to solder things.

Edited October 25, 2022 by Dr PR

[Bill97]

Thanks Dr PR that gives me piece of mind. Have been waiting to practice until I got to the bottom of it. 

[Bill97]

OK Allan I got my Solder-It and my soldering iron. I am practicing a little and am wondering after I putt a small bit of Solder-It on the joint do I then touch the small bit with the soldering iron tip or only to the wire near the solder to heat the wire enough to make the solder melt?

[Dr PR]

Bill,

 

I have read many places that you should heat the parts to be soldered and not the solder. I have always ignored this.

 

You need to transfer heat from the soldering iron to the work, and just placing the soldering iron tip against metal will result in a relatively slow heat transfer. With brass and copper the heat will flow away from the point of contact, heating the solder area slowly and allowing the heat to spread through the metal to more distant places. This may result in unsoldering other existing solder joints. You can use heat sinks (metal clips, forecepts, wet paper towel, etc.) to protect existing joints.

 

You want to transfer the heat rapidly. For this the tip of the soldering iron should be wet with a small drop of molten solder. This will transfer heat quickly. I usually put a small amount of solder on the tip  and solder flux on the joint to be soldered (I prefer the liquid citric acid flux). Then I touch the joint with the tip and the solder flows into the joint. The liquid flux draws the solder into the joint as it evaporates. The flux dissolves metal oxides that would prevent a good solder joint.

 

Depending upon the area to be soldered you may need to feed more solder as you move the tip along the joint. Practice will teach you how to do this. Once the solder has flowed you can pull it along the seam just by dragging the soldering iron tip along the seam.

 

One other thing to remember -  the tin in solder dissolves into brass and copper. It doesn't just flow onto the surface. Some metal flows from the brass into the solder. As a consequence, you cannot remove excess solder without leaving a solder "stain" on the metal. So plan your work carefully and apply the soldering iron to the inside of the work when possible, so any excess solder will not be visible. Use as little solder as necessary to secure the joint. If you are going to paint the part the stain doesn't matter. But it will prevent blackening the stained area with metal blackening agents.

Edited November 3, 2022 by Dr PR

[Bill97]

Thanks Dr PR. I am only going to be soldering the tiny joint where two pieces of brass wire touch together to make chain links. Exactly what Daniel did in the first part of this topic. Wont be soldering any larger joints. Anything different in your above instructions for this specific soldering task?  I will be blackening the links. 

[Bill97]

I did it!  Thanks Allan and Dr PR. Using your recommendations for products to use and steps I pulled off my first “rough” chain link. That Soldetr-It works fantastic as does the Brass Black. A good bit more practice and I should be ready when it comes time to make my chain plates. 
 

Thanks again

Bill