Fair American by GaryKap - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48

[KenW]

Thanks Gary.  I have a photo of rafine's capstan and I will check out the other sources.

[victorpapa]

I wondered about the location of the quarter deck face. The doors are blocked by the aft most cannons. The fix might be to move the cannon forward or move the quarter deck face aft to in between bulkheads 12 and 13.

Any comments?

[GaryKap]

Hello victorpapa -

You are exactly correct.  Remember that the kit is attempting to copy a MODEL of the ship.  Various buildlogs on this site show different ways to address the lack of space between the cannon and the "quarter deck face".  I moved the "face" to the aft end of bulkhead 12, and moved the gunport forward.  You might check KenW's and rafine's buildlogs to see exactly what they did.  And I see that you are new to the forum.  You might consider starting your own buildlog.  There are many benefits to having other modelers with skill and experience looking over your shoulder.

 

<<Gary>>

[GaryKap]

Progress Report -

All of the cannons are now rigged and pinned to the deck.  The breech lines, outhaul tackle, and quoins are in place.  The outhaul tackle lines are just laying on the deck - I haven't decided how to finish these yet, but will probably go with Ken W's coils because they look so good.  For anyone following this build log and beginning this stage, I stropped the blocks using the small diameter black rigging from old Model Shipways kits.  I then tied all of the blocks to the rings on the gun carriages and the bulwarks.   Then I rigged the outhaul tackle.  After that, I pinned the carriages to the deck.  Then I rigged the breech lines.  Finally I added the quoins, gluing them in place.  I have not yet glued the barrels to the carriages.  There are other - maybe better - ways of doing this (see KenW's buildlog for Fair American) but this worked for me.  <<Gary>>

[russ]

Gary:

The guns look very good. Great work.

 

I usually make the coils separately. I cut the tackle lines and glue the end to the deck and the glued the coil to the deck on top of the line so it looked like it was all one length of line.

 

Russ

[Pete Jaquith]

Gary,

 

This is how I covered the poop bulkhead location:

 

>>> Poop bulkhead was moved aft slightly

>>> Poop bulkhead was designed as portable panels assuming they would be removed "when in action" (I believe this was typical practice during this period)

>>> This layout will permit rigging the aft cannons

 

My 14 Brig "Fair American" build is currently on hold as I complete my full scale shipbuilding project in North Vancouver, BC Canada.  As time permits, I will post a "Fair American" build log once "Eagle 1847 is completed. 

 

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Edited May 25, 2014 by Pete Jaquith

[GaryKap]

Pete - Nicely done!!! Thanks for sharing.  Real quality work there. 

At this stage of the build, I am very pleased that I selected "Fair American".  She is a beautiful little ship with great lines, and at a scale that allows more detail to be added with less frustration on my part.  I think that overall Model Shipways did a great job developing this kit.

<<Gary>>

Edited May 25, 2014 by GaryKap

[aliluke]

Very nice work on the gun rig there Gary. The barrels look superb. Are you going to add cap squares? I do these with thin card painted black. I also agree with Russ, it is much easier to do the coils separately.

[GaryKap]

Russ and Alistair - Thank you both for your kind words and your suggestions for dealing with the outhaul tackle line coils.  I am following up  on your suggestion and testing different coil diameters.  One quarter inch (one scale foot) seems correct for coiling a line, but looks a bit big on deck.  One eighth inch (half foot scale) coils are unrealistic but fit better between the gun carriages...

 

Alistair, this is what they call a "teachable moment".  I have NO idea what a cap square is.  Any information you could provide will be appreciated.

 

<<Gary>>

 

p.s.  I envy you guys with the skill and tenacity to do the gun carriage rigging properly with hooks and etc.  I am simply not there yet, and old age will undoubtedly outpace any increases in skill I might acquire over time...

[russ]

Gary:

The cap square is a strip of metal that holds the trunnion (bar on either side of the cannon barrel) to the gun carriage. It can be made of brass strip or, as Alistair suggests, a strip of card or even paper or masking tape painted black. Its width should be slightly less than the thickness of the carriage sides (called brackets).

 

Russ

[GaryKap]

Russ -  Thanks, that makes sense.  I will look into it.  And I learned something new... .

<<Gary>>

[KenW]

I agree that your guns look great.  Are your barrels from the kit? Did you paint them or blacken them?

I use cut strips of a manila folder for my trunnions.

Great job.

[GaryKap]

HI Ken - Thanks for dropping by.  Yes, the barrels and carriages are from the kit.  The barrels were chemically blackened.

 

It sounds like heavy paper is the preferred material for making "cap squares".  I experimented with brass strips but they turned out to be too difficult.  I am wondering if I could simply use black paint to achieve a reasonable effect. 

[russ]

Gary:

I think the paper or card will be the answer. You need a little thickness on these as they go over the trunnions so just a coat of paint will probably not get it.

 

Russ

[aliluke]

Hi Gary

I agree with Russ. I use manila folder, thin card. Brass would be flasher but I can't get it to fold in a way that looks as good as card.

 

I cut a long strip of card painted black and glue it to the front of the top edge of the carriage, roll and glue it over the trunnion, glue it to the aft of the trunnion, cut the remaining length of strip off with #11 blade and then touch up the cut end with black paint. The beauty of using a long strip is that it allows much more control over the initial placement and alignment of the piece.

 

Some here add even more detail to this piece as the cap squares were hinged at the front and pinned at the aft end. I don't go that far. I also do them when the cannon is off the model, your situation maybe a little more tricky...

[GaryKap]

Hi Alistair - Thanks for explaining your technique.  You make it sound so easy... .  And yes, it will be trickier for me as the carriages are already pinned to the deck and all  of the rigging is in place.  But I do have plenty of manila folder material and black paint!!  My first attempt was to cut the strip into 1/4" segments, soak them in water, and shape them over a piece of brass rod the same diameter as the trunnions.  That hasn't been working as well as I hoped.

 

I'll keep working with it.

 

<<Gary>>

[aliluke]

Hi Gary

I don't pre-shape the strip at all. By sequentially gluing it I just shape it as I go using a toothpick to push it into the start and finish of the curve over the trunnion.

 

P.S. Also when I say a long strip I mean 5 - 6 inches long - makes it very easy to hold and align.

Edited May 28, 2014 by aliluke

[scott larkins]

Nice work so far.  Cannons look really nice.

[KenW]

I don't pre-shape either.  And, I don't soak the manila strips.  But I found it is better to paint the strips, and let the paint dry, before gluing them.

You can just press them down once you apply the glue.  Pretty easy to work with.

[wq3296]

Greetings,

 

I've used black construction paper - no need to paint. You may also use it for pintles and gudgeons, depending on scale.

 

wq3296

[GaryKap]

Cap Squares!!!  Thanks to Alistair for suggesting them and to everyone for your helpful hints on how best to do them. 

And a special thanks to Russ for taking the time to tell me what a cap square is.

 

<<Gary>>

Edited May 29, 2014 by GaryKap

[russ]

Gary:

That looks good. It adds a nice bit of detail to the model and now you know your cannons will not fly off their carriages during battle.

 

Russ

[aliluke]

Good one Gary. They sure do look the part with that little detail added.

[victorpapa]

Hello victorpapa -

You are exactly correct.  Remember that the kit is attempting to copy a MODEL of the ship.  Various buildlogs on this site show different ways to address the lack of space between the cannon and the "quarter deck face".  I moved the "face" to the aft end of bulkhead 12, and moved the gunport forward.  You might check KenW's and rafine's buildlogs to see exactly what they did.  And I see that you are new to the forum.  You might consider starting your own buildlog.  There are many benefits to having other modelers with skill and experience looking over your shoulder.

 

<<Gary>>

Thanks Gary,

I have found your posts to be very helpful, and they have enhanced the enjoyment of my build.

[GaryKap]

Hi Victorpapa - Thanks for dropping by.  I am glad that my buildlog is helpful to you.  Your kind words encourage me to post more...and more often.

We all learn from one another on this site either directly or indirectly.  I know that my finished model will be much better because of tips and helpful suggestions from others. 

 

<<Gary>>

[Littlebob]

Yep your cannons look better with the added detail.

[victorpapa]

Cap Squares!!!  Thanks to Alistair for suggesting them and to everyone for your helpful hints on how best to do them. 

And a special thanks to Russ for taking the time to tell me what a cap square is.

 

<<Gary>>

Gary,

I read  that some cannon of this era were fitted with a flint lock type of fireing mechanism. I am at the point of working on cannon and wondered if this would be something worth duplicating. Being new at this process I am following your and Kens build closely, much appreciated.

Vince.

[russ]

I would think the cannons would not be fitted with the flintlock mechanism. While possible, they were probably second hand and a bit older. They probably armed these privateers with what was available.

 

Russ 

[GaryKap]

Hi Vince - Thanks for visiting the build log and for your kind words.  I honestly don't have any information about a flint lock firing mechanism ( perhaps others looking over my shoulder might?) but it seems to me that at this scale it would be difficult to include.  On the other hand, I have seen where others (Rafine, for example) can do wonders with tiny bits of detail.  Heck, I was happy that I was able to do the outhaul tackle and cap squares.  It all depends on your skill level.

 

On another subject, I recently acquired a 48 inch fluorescent shop light to go over my work space.  That has made a HUGE difference for me.  So now I am working on masts, and will (hopefully) have something to show pretty soon.  Another helpful addition was a shop-vac with a suction hose to take away the wood chips and sawdust.

 

<<Gary>>

[victorpapa]

Hi Vince - Thanks for visiting the build log and for your kind words.  I honestly don't have any information about a flint lock firing mechanism ( perhaps others looking over my shoulder might?) but it seems to me that at this scale it would be difficult to include.  On the other hand, I have seen where others (Rafine, for example) can do wonders with tiny bits of detail.  Heck, I was happy that I was able to do the outhaul tackle and cap squares.  It all depends on your skill level.

 

On another subject, I recently acquired a 48 inch fluorescent shop light to go over my work space.  That has made a HUGE difference for me.  So now I am working on masts, and will (hopefully) have something to show pretty soon.  Another helpful addition was a shop-vac with a suction hose to take away the wood chips and sawdust.

 

<<Gary>>

Thanks Gary,

Read somewhere about woodlings and bamds used to strengthen masts that were made up with multiple sections of wood.

Before 1800 trees with 30 inch diameters ere available and the spars were usually one piece. The F.A. masts look to be around 1 foot (seems small) and would probibly would not require woodlings or bands. (although they do look pretty cool)

Yes,yes, one cannot have too much light at the work space.