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Fair American by GaryKap - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48


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Progress Report -  I have been agonizing over the channels and chain plates.  I REALLY wanted to do a good job here, and spent a lot of time with thin brass strips and tiny drill bits.  I felt that the most important thing was to have the deadeyes snug to the channels.  Finally I went to "Plan B"..."good enough".  The accompanying pictures show how I did it.  I used 26 gauge black copper wire to strop the deadeyes, then manufactured the chain plate by twisting the wire until it was the correct length to reach through the channel and attach to a blackened brass pin in the hull. These will hold the shrouds securely and don't look too bad. The middle deadeye shown in the fifth photo will be rotated to its correct alignment before rigging the shrouds.

 

I did use the brass strips for the lower deadeyes in the tops, though.  I have the masts pieces/parts assembled but not yet painted.  I plan to put the wooldings on the foremast just because I think they look good.

<<Gary>>

 

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current build: SYREN

nearly done:  Fair American, Benjamin W. Latham

future builds:  Emma C. Berry

completed builds:  Rattlesnake, Newsboy, Sultana

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Thanks for the post Gary,

I'm just adding channels and other wood to the bulwarks, and will be considering dead eyes soon.

I like the twisted wire, looks good.

Just ordered another F.A. to build sometime .I learned from all my mistakes and maybe will build a second and trick out the captians quarters and holds. I see miniture lights and all kinds of bells and whistles are available.

Thanks for the help.

Vince

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Gary,

I was reading through your log and some of the pictures from the first two pages are missing.  I like how it is coming out.  Good job

Walt Biles

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Vince and Walt -

Thanks for dropping by, and for your kind words.  Vince, I sometimes think about building a "second" of Fair American or perhaps of Rattlesnake.  But then again, there are always so many NEW mistakes I can make...   Walt, thanks for letting me know about the missing pictures.  I'll see if I can replace them.

 

By the way, two minor discoveries I have made.  Toenail clippers are great for neatly cutting brass strips or wire.  Emory boards from the Dollar Store are handy as sanding sticks to get into tight places. 

 

<<Gary>>

current build: SYREN

nearly done:  Fair American, Benjamin W. Latham

future builds:  Emma C. Berry

completed builds:  Rattlesnake, Newsboy, Sultana

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Gary,

 

I'm about to start the Fair American by MS myself very soon. Your doing a really nice job on her. Your log is very informative and I have enjoyed reading it as well.

 

Regards, Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Hi all -

Walt, I think I have restored the missing photos.  Stuntflyer, thanks for dropping by and for your kind words.  I would encourage you to start a build log for your project.  You will get lots of helpful advice and encouragement.  And you should also check out the build logs from KenW and Rafine.  Both are excellent.  They use better quality wood with natural finish and their results look great. 

 

Its probably time for a progress report, although there has not been much progress.  I have been dealing with a carpal tunnel kind of wrist problem that limits what I can do.  In addition, I used a very old bottle of  Floquil "Swedish Oil" to varnish the masts... and it has taken WEEKS to dry.  I have attached some pictures.  The masts are stepped but not glued in.  They are not completed yet.  I need to do some painting and hang some blocks under the main top as well as other places.  The deck furniture is not glued on either.  I just placed it to give myself an idea of how she's looking.  The skylight is a "prototype" and will be replaced with something better in final.  I think the quartrdeck looks naked without it.  The stern lantern is just stuck on for now.  You get the idea.  But that's the progress to date.

<<Gary>>

 

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current build: SYREN

nearly done:  Fair American, Benjamin W. Latham

future builds:  Emma C. Berry

completed builds:  Rattlesnake, Newsboy, Sultana

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I think it looks great; specially the deck and deck furniture. 

The stern lantern looks outstanding.  I like the gold color.

Keep up with your great work.

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Pilot Boat Mary of Norfolk

Completed Builds:

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all -

Walt, I think I have restored the missing photos.  Stuntflyer, thanks for dropping by and for your kind words.  I would encourage you to start a build log for your project.  You will get lots of helpful advice and encouragement.  And you should also check out the build logs from KenW and Rafine.  Both are excellent.  They use better quality wood with natural finish and their results look great. 

 

Its probably time for a progress report, although there has not been much progress.  I have been dealing with a carpal tunnel kind of wrist problem that limits what I can do.  In addition, I used a very old bottle of  Floquil "Swedish Oil" to varnish the masts... and it has taken WEEKS to dry.  I have attached some pictures.  The masts are stepped but not glued in.  They are not completed yet.  I need to do some painting and hang some blocks under the main top as well as other places.  The deck furniture is not glued on either.  I just placed it to give myself an idea of how she's looking.  The skylight is a "prototype" and will be replaced with something better in final.  I think the quartrdeck looks naked without it.  The stern lantern is just stuck on for now.  You get the idea.  But that's the progress to date.

<<Gary>>

Looks great! You were smart not to glaze the rear windows, I did, and now the inside glazing is covered with dust. Both you and Ken are an inspiration, and like the old research days ,it is a gift to benefit from the sharing of helpful information. 

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Gary,

 

You are sure doing a nice job on your ship.  I finally got to re-read the early log.  Considering the adjustments you had to make to get the kit to work, it is really wonderful.  I have been a fan of "Fair American" for some time.  I Have the plans from MS.  Sometime when I can get to it, I would like to convert the whole thing to a POF, and do it that way.  I would like to find out how it would look internally if I build everything in a frame.  I cannot believe the cabin would have all those control lines running through the cabin and over the floors all over.  In a rocking ship, it would have been a nightmare in that cabin getting around in the dark.  I hope to discover some clue doing it in frame as to the correct routing of all those lines.  Even though it has been tried many ways, there must have been some way that they made it usable.  

 

Walt Biles

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Hi Bob, Ken, victorpapa and Walt -

 

Thanks for dropping  by and your words of encouragement.  Walt, I see you have Emma C. Berry on your future list.  Me too - the kit is sitting in my closet.  Building a plank on frame hull is going to be a real challenge.   We need to have parallel build logs for them. 

 

I wonder if the Fair American control lines (if it were a real ship) went under the cabin deck with blocks and then back up again near the rudder post.  Just a thought...  

 

I will be away on vacation until mid-October.  Then I will start the standing rigging.  And by then, KenW will have identified all those blocks for the running rigging that should have been attached to the masts before they were stepped. 

 

<<Gary>>

current build: SYREN

nearly done:  Fair American, Benjamin W. Latham

future builds:  Emma C. Berry

completed builds:  Rattlesnake, Newsboy, Sultana

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Gary, the arrangement of the wheel made no sense to me when I was doing my build. It still doesn't. I asked on my original log if anyone had an answer and I got a response that Bob Hunt's kit used rigging that in my view would have rendered the cabin unusable. In short, I don't know the answer.

 

Bob

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Gary, Bob,

 

I saw that, and as a navy man, I cannot for the life of me figure how the captain or any body else could have lived and worked in that space without getting killed or seriously injured in that space during high seas, especially at night.  I lean toward the idea that the deck must have been above most, if not all of those lines,  IMHO.  Someday, I may POF that set of plans to see if I could determine how they might have done it.  I'd have to build scale figures to make sure there was enough space for any activity below that top deck.  There must have been a way.  It seems that that model must have been done from a variety of drawings, because a 3' doors and all those ladders and cannons hunched around the wheel just seems a bit too crowded.  With there having been rumors of a variety of ships called by that name, I'd have to build it to see if it could be possible.   

 

I have been preparing a Fair a Hull kit to have on hand when I get around to starting the EC Berry, Bob.  I'm bashing the kit a bit.  

 

Walter Biles

Edited by Walter Biles
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  • 3 months later...

Bigcreekdad, thanks for dropping by.  And here is a progress report for everyone.  I thought it was time to mount the hull on its permanent display stand.  I found the lovely, dense piece of white oak at Black Dog Salvage in Roanoke, Virginia (seen on DIY TV as "salvage dawgs").  It was part of an old timber, and I like to think the tree that produced it was growing at the time that Fair American was sailing.  No stain - just a couple coats of tung oil and I am happy with the way that it looks.

 

Notice that there is a companionway at the quarterdeck now.  It is not glued in yet, but you get the idea.

 

I have started on the cannons.  I took those lovely 14 shiny brass cannon barrels and turned them gunmetal grey with a brass darkening solution.  I used the heavy brass wire supplied in the kit to make the trunnions.  I cut them to length, darkened them with the solution, and then glued them into the barrels with superglue.  (this sequence is important - if you glue them in before darkening them, the inevitable blob of glue will not darken and will stand out boldly)

 

I am using the technique demonstrated by Modeler12 in his video to make the eyebolts and rings for the gun carriage rigging. 

 

That's all for now.  <<Gary>>

Hi Gary, It is a little late to add suggestions, may help on your next build. I used picture frame wire for stropping on the blocks. I untwisted the wir and removed one strand that was somewhat twisted, the twisting was easily removed by stretching the wire. The wire was very soft and easily worked on the small blocks. I may also use a few strands of that wire for foot ropes. Your build looks great, thanks for the posts as your,Rafine and Kens posts have helped make my attempt better than it would have been without.

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Gary,

 

You are sure doing a nice job on your ship.  I finally got to re-read the early log.  Considering the adjustments you had to make to get the kit to work, it is really wonderful.  I have been a fan of "Fair American" for some time.  I Have the plans from MS.  Sometime when I can get to it, I would like to convert the whole thing to a POF, and do it that way.  I would like to find out how it would look internally if I build everything in a frame.  I cannot believe the cabin would have all those control lines running through the cabin and over the floors all over.  In a rocking ship, it would have been a nightmare in that cabin getting around in the dark.  I hope to discover some clue doing it in frame as to the correct routing of all those lines.  Even though it has been tried many ways, there must have been some way that they made it usable.  

 

Walt Biles

 

Yeah I do think that if the model was ever to be made into a real ship some alterations would be needed badly.

possibly make the cabin taller and adjust the heights of the stern deck and transom and move the main mast boom up to match, that would also give more room to fit the control of the rudder under the cabin deck.  say add 5 feet to the cabin height and adjust the q-deck and transom to match ?

 

also go with two cannons less or add a few feet to the total length of the ship, say add 8 feet ?

 

both changes should keep her overall the same plan but make the cabin and the rudder / wheel working much more practical.

go with one ladder and one door.

 

then i think the number of cannon work and the cabin works. Hmm   wonder if i could cut the right parts in the kit to make that work ?

 

8 feet @ 1:48 = 2 inches to add to the length, make one more bulkhead somewhere near the mid ship where there is no real change in the hull shape...

cut a longer part for the keel,   check for how this alters the main and foremast locations....

perhaps do it just aft of the main mast ??

 

must make a copy of the plan and play with it.....

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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Hi Figuerres-

 

Wow! those are significant changes to the hull that you are contemplating.  You need to be aware that your changes will also require alterations in the channels, chainplates, deadeyes, and etc.  That is what KenW discovered with his FAIR AMERICAN when he made only minor changes to the gunport size and location.  I found the same to be true on my FAIR AMERICAN.  I have nearly completed the standing rigging at this point.  I have found the main topmast backstays to be too close to the main lower top as a result of my modification.  Just a "heads up" if you do make the modifications.  You will need to pay careful attention to the locations of the channels and chain plates.  Think it through carefully.

 

<<Gary>>

current build: SYREN

nearly done:  Fair American, Benjamin W. Latham

future builds:  Emma C. Berry

completed builds:  Rattlesnake, Newsboy, Sultana

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Gary,

 

You are sure doing a nice job on your ship.  I finally got to re-read the early log.  Considering the adjustments you had to make to get the kit to work, it is really wonderful.  I have been a fan of "Fair American" for some time.  I Have the plans from MS.  Sometime when I can get to it, I would like to convert the whole thing to a POF, and do it that way.  I would like to find out how it would look internally if I build everything in a frame.  I cannot believe the cabin would have all those control lines running through the cabin and over the floors all over.  In a rocking ship, it would have been a nightmare in that cabin getting around in the dark.  I hope to discover some clue doing it in frame as to the correct routing of all those lines.  Even though it has been tried many ways, there must have been some way that they made it usable.  

 

Walt Biles

I have seen depictions of rudder cables and tiller positioned in the ceiling

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I have seen depictions of rudder cables and tiller positioned in the ceiling

have any examples in an actual ship?

also part of the question here is that this model seems to have a cabin that is not tall enough to manage a functional cabin with rudder control lines in it.

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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Just caught up with this build.  Very beautiful job so far!

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

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Hey Gary:  Just a note on wire - I use wire I got from www.ooks.com and are pleased with it.  I have a coil of 28  and 24 gauge annealed wire.  It is black and very tough.  I can twist it and even the 28 guage doesn't break.  They may have other gauges.

Cheers.

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Pilot Boat Mary of Norfolk

Completed Builds:

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

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Ken -

 

Thanks for the tip on the source for thin wire.  I will look into it.

 

The standing rigging on my FAIR AMERICAN is mostly completed.  I have not installed the topgallant backstays yet.  It appears to me that they will get in the way of my clumsy hands when I attach the yards and do the running rigging.  i am considering deferring rigging them until the yards are on.  What was your experience with this?  From your build log, it looks like you rigged the topgallant backstays before you did any of the yards and running rigging.  Did they get in your way? 

 

<<Gary>>

current build: SYREN

nearly done:  Fair American, Benjamin W. Latham

future builds:  Emma C. Berry

completed builds:  Rattlesnake, Newsboy, Sultana

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Hey Gary.  I remember being constantly aware of the back stays.  I don't think delaying them would be a bad idea.  Just as long as you 'move up' with them.  In other words, insure that the top sail back stays are done before you move to the top gallant yard.  Might be a good idea.

Cheers. 

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Pilot Boat Mary of Norfolk

Completed Builds:

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

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  • 1 month later...

OK - time for a long overdue progress report.  I am almost finished with the standing and running rigging, with only the braces to add.  I still have to add the anchors and their gear, the coils of line over the belaying pins, glue down the deck furniture, and add the flags and pennants. 

 

She's not "museum quality" and there are MANY things I would do differently, but I had many enjoyable hours building her, and I learned a lot about eighteenth century ships and sailing (mostly from others on this forum).  In reality, friends and relatives will see her as a nice ship model without identifying the errors and omissions :rolleyes: .  And hopefully my next ship model will benefit from the experience that I gained.

 

<<Gary>>

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current build: SYREN

nearly done:  Fair American, Benjamin W. Latham

future builds:  Emma C. Berry

completed builds:  Rattlesnake, Newsboy, Sultana

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Gary:  Your model looks really good!  I like the photos on that blue surface.  Looks like its out on the water. 

A very excellent job.

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Pilot Boat Mary of Norfolk

Completed Builds:

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

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Museum Quality is a joke.  I remember what a curator said when I was in Toronto years ago.  They are looking for accuracy and something that relates to what they are doing.  Your Fair America is perfect as far as I can see.  You did a fine job.  Makes me want to do one myself.

David B

Edited by dgbot
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She's a fine looking ship model. Congratulations, Gary. What's next? I used the LumberYards laser cut package to build Hannah (Hahn style) after my FA. and it was very nice progression. Look at Toni Levines build log.

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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Congrats, excellent built ship Gary,

 

also super pics with daylight Illumination, a pleasure to see this lovely model

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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