GrandpaPhil Posted May 25 Share #31 Posted May 25 The island is looking good! You’ve got this! Spaceman Spiff, mtaylor and Canute 3 Quote Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans) 1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted May 30 Author Share #32 Posted May 30 (edited) Another minor update. The scratch-built mast has begun. I took some Evergreen I-beams and split them. Also cut a ring off a pipette and used styrene rod as support. I know, looks like crap. Thoughts? Edited May 30 by Spaceman Spiff yvesvidal, Canute and GrandpaPhil 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted May 30 Author Share #33 Posted May 30 On 5/25/2024 at 9:39 AM, GrandpaPhil said: The island is looking good! You’ve got this! Thank you! I’m trying! GrandpaPhil and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddp Posted May 30 Share #34 Posted May 30 your mast should be tapered, thinner & shorter above the an/sps platform as shown in this link. https://www.navsource.org/archives/10/11/10111131.jpg Canute and Spaceman Spiff 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted May 30 Author Share #35 Posted May 30 (edited) 7 hours ago, ddp said: your mast should be tapered, thinner & shorter above the an/sps platform as shown in this link. https://www.navsource.org/archives/10/11/10111131.jpg Appreciate that. Just how do I properly taper a brass rod? Thanks for that image - that’s after multiple refits. Here is the timeframe I’m modeling: Edited May 30 by Spaceman Spiff GrandpaPhil, Canute and mikegr 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddp Posted May 30 Share #36 Posted May 30 (edited) cut the brass rod flush to the top of the platform then get a solid plastic rod so just fits into the brass rod. taper the plastic rod to the right shape by carving, scraping with a knife blade or use a hand drill/drill press with the plastic rod partly inserted into the chuck to use as a lathe. your picture time frame appears to be around 1974 or earlier because of the mast behind the island which not there in 1975 as replaced with a dome but has the twin 3" gun mounts in those time periods. Edited May 30 by ddp Javlin, Spaceman Spiff and Canute 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted May 30 Author Share #37 Posted May 30 Thanks. I will have to break out the dremel and cut it. That pic is circa ‘68-‘69, not far removed from her maiden cruise. That’s how she appeared when Dad was on her in 69-70 Canute 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted June 11 Author Share #38 Posted June 11 (edited) Another minor update. I decided not to taper the mast - I know, it’s not right… I’m trying my best to get it to match the pic above, as she was in ‘69. Still a lot more to go on mast, but it’s trying there. Not perfect, or even good. I am aware it’s leaning, it’s not glued in yet Thanks for looking! Edited June 11 by Spaceman Spiff mtaylor, gak1965, yvesvidal and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted June 18 Author Share #39 Posted June 18 (edited) Minor update: a few more odds and ends added and a few more to go. The mast has been glued in and she’s almost ready for prime, paint, and then set aside. Thanks for looking! Edited June 18 by Spaceman Spiff schooner, Canute, mtaylor and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted June 26 Author Share #40 Posted June 26 I think the island may be ready for prime and then paint. May weather it a bit, too, and set it aside until final assembly. Thoughts? patrickmil, Landlubber Mike, schooner and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted July 9 Author Share #41 Posted July 9 Update: paint is on. The island was primed with Mr Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Great stuff. White was then used in sort of a black basing method, although the tonal differences aren’t really visible in the pics. Time to set it aside and work on the harder stuff. Thank you for looking. Javlin, Landlubber Mike, mtaylor and 8 others 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickmil Posted July 9 Share #42 Posted July 9 Looks like you're making a gem out of a tough kit. Great work so far! Canute, mtaylor and Spaceman Spiff 3 Quote Thanks, Patrick YouTube Channel for fun: Patrick's Scale Studio Finished: Model Shipways US Brig Niagara I Love Kit USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54 Current: Trumpeter USS Yorktown CV-5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted July 9 Author Share #43 Posted July 9 Thanks man. Still some rough areas and I definitely could have done better (I critique my work harder than anyone else), but it’s not bad. The hull is a different story as trying to fit the fight deck to it proved to be no fun at all. A lot of grinding/cutting/shaving/sanding is ahead of me. Not to mention that the sides are not exactly straight. A lot more to go but at least there is light in the tunnel lol patrickmil, mtaylor and Canute 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted July 10 Author Share #44 Posted July 10 So this is what I’m dealing with now. A lot of work ahead - the flight deck is straight but look at those gaps. Looks like I have a few shims to make. Ugh. Ideas?? yvesvidal, GrandpaPhil, mtaylor and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddp Posted July 10 Share #45 Posted July 10 how flat does the keel lay on a flat straight surface? Spaceman Spiff, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted July 10 Author Share #46 Posted July 10 (edited) Not sure as there are two fairly large pour stubs on the bottom. I plan on putting it in a little dio like it is underway upside down on the table: Edited July 10 by Spaceman Spiff ccoyle, mtaylor and Canute 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickmil Posted July 10 Share #47 Posted July 10 Warm/hot water and gently working it so the hull meets up with the deck would be your best bet, I would think. Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Thanks, Patrick YouTube Channel for fun: Patrick's Scale Studio Finished: Model Shipways US Brig Niagara I Love Kit USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54 Current: Trumpeter USS Yorktown CV-5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted July 10 Author Share #48 Posted July 10 I’ll give that a try. Not sure exactly how to do that one, though, as I built up the interior and primed it. Think that would be easier than shims and milliput? Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickmil Posted July 10 Share #49 Posted July 10 I guess with that in mind, it all comes down to how accurate you want the part of the hull above the waterline to be in regards to distances between hatches, fittings, and vents and the flight deck. Shimming and milliput might be the way to go if you already have the interior of the hull fitted out. mtaylor, Spaceman Spiff and Canute 3 Quote Thanks, Patrick YouTube Channel for fun: Patrick's Scale Studio Finished: Model Shipways US Brig Niagara I Love Kit USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54 Current: Trumpeter USS Yorktown CV-5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted July 10 Author Share #50 Posted July 10 Thank you. If I were remove the installed interior fittings, how would you recommend the hot water treatment? That’s one solid - and heavy - piece of resin. i also contacted the manufacturer for advice, even though that kit is out of production. mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickmil Posted July 10 Share #51 Posted July 10 Personally, I have only had to do this on small pieces but it is possible on large pieces. That said, the Googles has this to say: Hot water Submerge the resin in hot water (around 55°C) for about five minutes. The resin will become flexible and can be reshaped by hand while it's still hot. Once it cools, the resin will harden again. Hair dryer or heat gun Heat the resin until it becomes more pliable, then shape it into a mold or curved surface and tape it in place until it sets. You can also use heat to bend resin that has already cured, but it might try to revert to its original shape. mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Thanks, Patrick YouTube Channel for fun: Patrick's Scale Studio Finished: Model Shipways US Brig Niagara I Love Kit USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54 Current: Trumpeter USS Yorktown CV-5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted July 10 Author Share #52 Posted July 10 Thank you - I may try that. Would the curves and all change shape? Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrickmil Posted July 10 Share #53 Posted July 10 There would definitely be some slight alterations to the shape. Maybe you have a spare piece or something you could try it out on first to get an idea? Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Thanks, Patrick YouTube Channel for fun: Patrick's Scale Studio Finished: Model Shipways US Brig Niagara I Love Kit USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54 Current: Trumpeter USS Yorktown CV-5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted July 10 Author Share #54 Posted July 10 I think I may just go the shim/fill route. Then measure/relocate any door, etc to their proper place up higher. I think that would be a bit easier, although I can see the bow area giving me a fit Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddp Posted July 10 Share #55 Posted July 10 what glue & what materials are you going to use to fill that gap between the hull & flight deck? do you have a compass/divider? Canute, Spaceman Spiff and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted July 10 Author Share #56 Posted July 10 (edited) Glue: epoxy or gel super glue. Thought I’ll take plasticard, etc, and make what I can. On the sides, I was thinking of making little braces so to speak and then use the plastic sheet to sort of wall it off. Up at the bow where it curves I was thinking of making more braces it whatever and then using miliput and shape it (if I can). Yes I have a compass Edited July 10 by Spaceman Spiff mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddp Posted July 11 Share #57 Posted July 11 give a slight sand to both the plastic sheet & the top of the hull to give the glue more surface area to attach to. put a shim or whatever between the deck & hull top but not glued then use the compass at the widest part of the gap with 1 part of the compass sliding across the deck & the scribe part of the compass to the hull at the widest part. slide the top part of the compass along the deck edge as the scribe part of the compass scribes a line parallel to the deck into the hull till you reach the end of the gap. cut away the material above the scribed line till the end of the gap. now the gap should have the same width from the front to the back of the gap which you can now fill with strips of plastic & once the glue has cured, can carve/sand that area to proper shape. once primed & painted, you won't know that there was a gap there. even tho i currently only work with plastic, i use that same principle on my 1/429 scale OBB's & my gaps are almost non-existant with hardly any putty use. Spaceman Spiff, mtaylor and Canute 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted July 11 Author Share #58 Posted July 11 Now that is an awesome idea! Thank you. Think I should glue the deck at the points it fits and then use that method? I really like that. I’ll also measure the door/platform attachment points/ etc are on hull and then remake them in their proper place. You’ve given me some hope, man Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddp Posted July 11 Share #59 Posted July 11 tape the deck in place not glue it as would be easier for adjustments if deck is removable. Spaceman Spiff, mtaylor and Canute 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spaceman Spiff Posted July 11 Author Share #60 Posted July 11 On 7/9/2024 at 11:15 PM, ddp said: how flat does the keel lay on a flat straight surface? I removed the pour stubs last night just to see how it sat - fine in the middle and both ends raised off the table…so both ends droop at the top and at the bottom, raised. Almost as if each end shrank. As I said, I’ll make an at sea dio so the bottom parts are covered. mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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