USS Constitution by Mundie - Model Shipways

[Mundie]

Hello everyone, I recently purchased the Modelshipways Constitution (MS 2040) and hope to keep it rolling along. So far so good.

Edited March 10, 2014 by Mundie

[Mundie]

Ok, I'm not sure about "beveling" the bulkheads? I have a practicum, but I need a visual or more detailed explanation. Please help.

[usedtosail]

Ok, think about the planks that will wrap around the bow and the stern. they have to curve, so the outside edges of the bulkheads have to curve to match, so you get contact with the plank across the whole edge of the bulkhead. The plans for the bulkheads show a line on the ones that have to be bevelled. That line corresponds to the edge closest to the bow for the front bulwarks and closest to the stern for the rear bulwarks after you sand in the bevel. Just sand or carve straight from the existing edge to the line. Figure 1-4 in the instructions shows this pretty well. Leave a little extra for final sanding after you have all the bulkheads installed. This is where you will make sure the planks make a smooth run all the way along the hull, which is called fairing. I hope this helps.

[Mundie]

Tom, I got it now; I just saw some people beveling the bulkheads after they were glued to the keel, that must be finetuning. Thanks, John

[Mundie]

Ok, got side tracked for a bit. I beveled the bulkheads, and going to assemble and fine tune.

[Mundie]

Anyone have any random advice before I attach the bulkheads?

[CaptainSteve]

Test fit 'em first before breaking out the glue gun, or ARC welder - whichever method you are planning on using.

Make sure the second half of your bulkheads are facing towards the stern (ie: the bevelled side).

Check the reference lines to ensure everything lines up.

 

But, hey, you probably already knew this !! 

Edited March 23, 2014 by CaptainSteve

[patrickmil]

If you haven't though of it already, you'll want to get a couple items with perfect right angles to brace the bulkheads and keel together while the glue dries. That should help you with getting the perfect perpendicular bulkhead.

[Mundie]

I think I messed up? The bulkheads seem to be riding high? The practicum states to pay more attention to the top of the bulkheads evenness, rather then the lines.

[patrickmil]

They do seem to be riding a little high from my understanding of the plans. Just deepening those slots a little should be a quick enough fix.

[usedtosail]

Yes, the bottom of those bulkheads should be down to the rabbet line just above the keel, about where your keel holder is.

[CaptainSteve]

I haven't glued mine together yet, but I did do a test fit before putting it back in the box. The reference lines on your bulkheads should all line up with the reference line running along the length of your keel pieces. In other words, down a little bit like the others are suggesting.

 

Assuming you haven't glued these in just yet, then try filing out the grooves where they fit together. They may be too tight to allow your bulkheads to fit correctly - mine certainly were at first. The bulkheads should fit snugly, but not be so tight that you need to force them into place. This could give you a warped keel - something you'd definitely wanna avoid !!

 

If you have already glued, then get yourself some isopropyl to break the glue. Mine comes as a spray. So just spray it along both sides of each bulkhead piece, then leave it to sit for a couple of minutes. Then remove your bulkheads, clean them up (to remove excess glue and isopropyl) and work on the grooves a little until they are nice and snug.

Edited March 24, 2014 by CaptainSteve

[Mundie]

 

Well, I added the word "debond" to my vocabulary and removed the word "debond" from my vocabulary in the same day. After 3.5 hours I removed the bulkheads. I misread the practicum and only checked the top of the bulkhead and did not trim the slots enough to slid the align the reference lines and epoxied before pre fitting the bulkheads. Opps, I won't be doing that again!

 

J. Mundie Jr.

[patrickmil]

It's always a relief when you can successfully remove some glued on pieces without destroying them. Good work with that.

[alde]

Mundie, Good save but you may want to re-think your use of epoxie. Regular wood glue is much more forgiving, holds great and can be taken apart pretty easy. We have all had to take stuff apart but like CaptainSteve said, the wood glue comes apart really well with isopropyl. The 99% pure works great and won't cause the grain to lift. The 70% pure has 30% water and will raise the wood grain.

[Mundie]

I'm about to attach the counter, I'm having a problem understanding exactly what needs to be beveled? Any pic or diagrams would help. The practicum is a bit hard to comprehend.

Edited April 3, 2014 by Mundie

[Mundie]

Finished the counter and started the filler blocks.

[Mundie]

Marked block

[usedtosail]

Looks good Mundie.

[dgbot]

Just got a look on your build Mundie, you picked a good model to work on.  There are many here who have done it, so you will be getting good advice.  Since the bulkheads are basswood and fragile you should think about filling the space in between them to prevent breakage.  This will also make it easy to fare the hull before planking.

David B

[Geoff Matson]

Mundie

 

Just found your log and build looks great. The counter was a hard piece for me and it looks like you got everything figured out just fine.

[Mundie]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. /// Where on the bulkheads can I safely reinforce the space between the bulkheads that will not interfere with anything later in the building process?

[Mundie]

I borrowed a scroll saw from a friend. I first made the long cut, then used a painters tape and made the next cut. Does anyone know how much I should round the edges that meet the outside of the counter?

[patrickmil]

Good process for the bow and stern blocks Mundie. 

[Guest Tim I.]

Mundie,

 

Looks good so far! Looking forward to see your Connie take shape.

 

- Tim

[Mundie]

I'm not sure how much of the block to sand/cut in order for bulkhead R and the filler block to align for planking? I have the templates but don't want to overdo it.

[usedtosail]

I went pretty close to the line on the template, then finished it up after it was glued to the hull. I thought I had taken too much off, but it turned out the transom piece was a little too big, so I sanded that down to match. You just want to make sure you have a smooth transition between pieces, as if they are one piece.

[HIPEXEC]

I'm enjoying your build. As for beveling....you will also have to bevel individual planks so their edges match as they round the bulkheads. Keep up the good work.

[dgbot]

Once you get close to the template install the blocks. Then grab a sanding block and some veneer stripping for fittingand shape the block truing as you go. You can always add a little filler if you take off too much.

David B

[Mundie]

Ok, I finally found some time to form the filler/ I'm pretty sure this is close to the correct shape?