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Posted

Snowmans,

 

Yeah, I'm with Tom on this one. Wood is different depending on species so it matters. Also, most of the wood we use for kits is kiln dried to a very low percentage (I forget the standard % but it's single to teen numbers) and will suck the moisture almost instantly. If you don't have the bend in the first hour or so you're not going to get it and I don't think 6 hours beats 2 in terms of flexibility.

 

Ramdy

Posted

I hadn't thought of the color changing. That ship was getting stained anyway so woundnt have mattered. Will keep in mind for next time. thanks for the info.

 

Tom - Snowmans happened by acident on another forum. S Newman was taken changed to Snowman then snowmans. How you came up with your user name might be new thread. 

 

Shanon.

Posted (edited)

I have several different diameters of pvc pipe about 9 inch long. Using the right diameter, I clamp one end to my work bench. I soak my wood depending on type at room temp for .75 to 1.5 hours, I only do one piece at a time (lot of time, no money). Then place the wood on the pvc with clamp. Using a heat variable watt heat gun, I dry it. Once the wood is dry and room temp I fit it into position, trim, clamp/glue/pin. Then off to do the other side. I prefer to use full length pieces on the false hull. I use less than full length for hull, never more than three for effect. Sand, torch it, rub off char with paper towels or old underwear until desired effect is achieved. If I rub off to much, simply char again. One has to be careful when using butane torch, the wood catches fire very easy. There is a learning curve, practice with different woods.

Edited by wthilgen

Current Build:

La Nina, Latina - Wood / 1:65

 

On The Shelf:

San Francisco II, Latina - Wood 1/90,     U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic  / 1:96 (Remake),     H.M.S. Bounty, Latina - Wood / 1:48,     H.M.S. /Mayflower, Latina - Wood / 1:64,     La Pinta, Latina, Latina - Wood / 1:65,     La Santa Maria, Latina - Wood / 1:65,

 

Completed:

San Francisco / Cross Section, Latina - Wood / 1:50,     Coastal Submarine, Revell - Plastic / 1:144,     Cutty Sark Wall Plaque, Revell - Plastic / 1:50,     H.M.S. Victory, Revell - Plastic / 1:146,

H.M.S. Bounty, Constructo - Wood / 1:50,     Oseberg, Billings Boats - Wood / 1:25,     Clipper Ship (Sea Witch), Unknown - Wood / 1:46,     U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic / 1:96,    

Man Of War, Scientific - Wood / 1:50,     Robert E. Lee, Scientific - Wood / 1:45,     PT-109, Revell - Plastic / 1:72,     U.S.S. Enterprise, Revell - Plastic / 1:720,    

R.M.S. Titanic, Revell - Plastic / 1:720,     Numerous other wooded tall ships and boats from companies named: Ideal, Dumas, Pyro.

Posted

If you are uncomfortable with steaming wood you could try a plank 'nipper' (Amati makes a very good one) that crimps a curve into the plank from the rear. For thicker planks I sometimes soak it first and then use the nipper. I find I have much more control over the whole process than bending a wet plank and then putting it in place hoping it's been steamed enough and won't break.

 

A nipper is a lot quicker too, but in the end, it's what works best for you. Worth a try though.

Posted

I use both the nipper and a soaking - using a thermos flask full of boiled water cant remember soaking an plank for more than 20 minutes off the top of my head. Thats a 2mm basewood or 1mm walnut plank, once shaped I have allowed the plank to dry a little before glueing. The real problems usually occur after several planks have been installed as you move down towards the waterline, thats where the nipper can come in handy. Tapering the planks to avoid clinkering is usually clearly seen as you progress with the lines developing.

Norman

 

 

Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck.

Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake.

Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon.

Posted

There is a lot of good info here. I just wanted to add my 2 pesos worth.

 

I use boxwood and other harder woods a lot. I tend to soak them 10-20 minutes based on thickness. That works well on simple and slight bends even in two dimensions. For more complex bends up in the bow (where it can bend inward, upward and twist) I will soak awhile, then attempt to hand manipulate into approximate shape. That is the only ay I have found to get the twist. When I get close, I will then clamp and allow to dry. I have done the "glue while wet" before and that usually results in gaps due to plank shrinkage.

 

One guy in our club routinely uses ebony. He says he soaks it for days.

 

As with all things wood, I recommend trying different methods, finding what works for you and go with it.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I purchased an Aeropiccola plank bender about 30 years ago and it is still going strong. I am not sure if it is still obtainable but the great feature of it is a spring mounted roller which presses the plank to, and follows the curve  of the heating iron. (See pic)  I usually mount it in a vice and it is necessary to raise and lower the spring mounted roller with a pair of pliers because of the heat,  but it has worked well - even on very rounded bows - for years.

 

I always dampen the planks first - usually about 20 - 30 minutes in warm water, mount on the hull while still wet (using plank clamping screws) . I then remove when dry, glue and remount on the hull. I too used to use a thermos to soak planks but found that sometimes I  needed both ends of the plank damp as I needed to produce a curve at both ends. Using a bath was one option for soaking long planks, then I came up with the following idea. It is a long piece of poly pipe which  a cut in half but curved up at each end so as the end of the pipe remains intact. I then glued the appropriate sized cap to each end and mounted it on a timber stand. I intend to put a tap in one end for drainage when I get  time. It works well and sits happily on my workbench when it is `planking time' :)

 

post-1505-0-17281100-1404868229_thumb.jpg

 

post-1505-0-15708300-1404868245_thumb.jpg

 

post-1505-0-05487900-1404868332_thumb.jpg

 

post-1505-0-65020300-1404868414_thumb.jpg

Hornet

 

Current Build: - OcCre Shackleton’s Endurance. 

 

Completed Ship Builds:

                                     Caldercraft - HM Bark Endeavour. (in Gallery)

                                    Caldercraft  - HMAV Bounty (in Gallery)

                                     Caldercraft - HM Brig Supply (In Gallery)

                                     Aeropiccola - Golden Hind

                                                        - Constitution

                                     Clipper Seawitch (maker unknown - too long ago to remember!)

                                     Corel - Victory

                                     Modeller's Shipyard - A Schooner of Port Jackson - In Gallery

                                                                      - Brig `Perseverance' - In Gallery

                                                                      - Cutter `Mermaid'- In Gallery

                                                                      - Sirius Longboat (bashed) - In Gallery

                                                                      - Sloop Norfolk - In Gallery

                                      Completed Cannon:   - French 18th Century Naval Cannon

                                                                      - Napoleonic 12 pound field piece

                                                                      - English 18th Century Carronade

                                       Non Ship Builds - Sopwith Camel - Artesania Latina

                                                                   - Fokker DR1 - Artesania Latina

                                               

Posted

Hornet,

I have been using lengths of PVC pipe for years, but your idea is much better.  I just cap the ends, then there is the pain of getting the wood out, and water, no sink near by, etc.  Your way has easy access to a visible area to pick out what you need while leaving the rest in place.  Cudos.

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted

I have the same bender. What I do is put it in my vise. I put the planks in a tall tube of water. I take the plank out then quickly run it over the iron until I get the shape I want. Every now and then on compound curves I would wipe it down with a damp sponge and keep on bending to shape. On large parts I would use a male female mold.

David B

Posted

This is the way I bend my planks.

 

Bending 4x1mm cherry over a home made plank bender.

The planks are placed in cold water for about 10 minutes, then taken out of the water and then placed over the hot plank bender and worked to the shape you require.

Use the water as frquently as required.

 

post-838-0-95486700-1405413851_thumb.jpg

 

post-838-0-97906800-1405413874_thumb.jpg

 

 

 Kind Regards

 

 mij

xebec 1:60 scale, scratch build

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