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Posted

Now I realize that it's important for the fore (anterior) shrouds to be served for protection against wear... :rolleyes:

Is this a basic rule for all the masts (including the mizzen mast)?

Cheers

Posted (edited)

This is true...this photo tells all the story.

Only the anterior half pair of the foremast shrouds illustrated as served.

post-944-0-66669400-1416983759_thumb.jpg

 

Should I serve the same way the mainmast and mizzenmast shrouds?

I'm searching my naval literature with no result till now...

Edited by Stergios
Posted

Looks like every shroud is served to just above the futtock stave with the anterior shroud serving extending to below the stave.

That was my quetion Jim.

 

Now, I believe I must serve the entire length of the anterior shroud....

I'm not sure what;s the rule for the anterior shroud of the mizzen mast.

Posted

Not sure if this helps guys but it is my understanding that the Fore Most Shrouds are served over their full or almost full length to protect them from chafe as a result of rubbing by the Square Sail on that particular mast.. so probably not on the Mizzen Mast as (I think!!) there is usually no sail set there (I'm referring to the lower shrouds of course)

 

Hope this may be of some help.

 

Eamonn 

Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

In the Pipeline :  HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Mortar Convulsion, Emma C Berry & C18th English Longboat.. Eventually That Is..🙄

Posted

Stergios - Yes, in reality they probably were served, I'm guessing like Eamonn, with the exception of the mizzen because there was no lower sail.

 

However....you need to make a decision about how far you want to go with the serving.  I didn't serve any of the shrouds that were .75mm diameter or smaller for two reasons, it gets to be a pain to serve properly on the smaller line, and the result (in my opinion) starts to look a little out scale as the line looks noticeably thicker (which it wouldn't at full scale)

 

As always, the only clear thing is that there is no clear answer!

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Posted (edited)

Thank you mates for your feedback.

 

Jason, I don't want to go so far away with the serving.

That's why I'll try to serve only the anterior shrouds of the foremast and mainmast which are 1mm in diameter.

Cheers.

 

Stergios

Edited by Stergios
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

A lot of testing before the final approach to the mizen mast shrouds.

Hypo gs cement glue is a more clear and clean adhesive util than cyano or pva, but a little touch up is needed to avoid some shinny spots from the cyano stabilizer of the hangman knots.

post-944-0-16723400-1417964087_thumb.jpg

post-944-0-29771500-1417964089_thumb.jpg

post-944-0-57885000-1417964090_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Quick question this kit. I noticed neither the instructions nor the plans mention anything about bearding or rabbet lines with this kit. Did you bother to cut and shape these lines, or was it not needed because this kit is coppered and will hide any imperfections where the strakes meet the keel?

 

Edit: And to tack on another question, I was inventorying parts and was curious about the parrel ribs. It says they are cast parts, but it looks like the ones I received were brass photo-etch? Is that correct, the same sort of thing that came with your kit? It also says I should've got 30, but there's just a single fret with 12.

Edited by Kevin M
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Quick question this kit. I noticed neither the instructions nor the plans mention anything about bearding or rabbet lines with this kit. Did you bother to cut and shape these lines, or was it not needed because this kit is coppered and will hide any imperfections where the strakes meet the keel?

 

Edit: And to tack on another question, I was inventorying parts and was curious about the parrel ribs. It says they are cast parts, but it looks like the ones I received were brass photo-etch? Is that correct, the same sort of thing that came with your kit? It also says I should've got 30, but there's just a single fret with 12.

Hi Kevin

Instructions and plans are so poor in understanding all the steps.

I cut and shaped those lines just to become more familiar with those procedures but I think that even with the coppered layer, bearding and rabbet lines were needed to demonstrate the right shape and curvarure of the hull and keel respectively.

Thanks 

Posted

Hi Kevin

Instructions and plans are so poor in understanding all the steps.

I cut and shaped those lines just to become more familiar with those procedures but I think that even with the coppered layer, bearding and rabbet lines were needed to demonstrate the right shape and curvarure of the hull and keel respectively.

Thanks 

 

Thanks for the info. I'd done some more research in the meantime, and this was the conclusion that I came to as well.

 

I think I'll head out to the hardware store this weekend and pick up a little butt chisel to help with shaving the bearding line. 

Posted

Kevin - I used a simple exacto blade to do the rabbet which worked just fine and pretty easily into plywood.  I found on my 'Jason' build that the plywood does not hold the shape anywhere near as well as using solid wood so that is probably a factor as well.  I think unless you are doing a single planked admiralty model you'll do just fine doing something simple.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

A lot of testing before the final approach to the mizen mast shrouds.

Hypo gs cement glue is a more clear and clean adhesive util than cyano or pva, but a little touch up is needed to avoid some shinny spots from the cyano stabilizer of the hangman knots.

Hi mates, even I'm late wish to all of you a Happy and Healthy New Year!!   :cheers:

 

I think that I'm out of scale with these testing laynards, so I'd like to ask you what size of rope do u use for the laynards as the best indicated ratio for the deadeyes and shrouds?

Thanks in advance.

 

Stergios

Edited by Stergios
Posted

Hi mates, even I'm late wish to all of you a Happy and Healthy New Year!!   :cheers:

 

I think that I'm out of scale with these testing laynards, so I'd like to ask you what size of rope do u use for the laynards as the best indicated ratio for the deadeyes and shrouds?

Thanks in advance.

 

Stergios

 

I think I used 0.5mm thread for the deadeye lanyards.

Jim
-----
Current builds:

HMS Snake
HMS Hood
Mechanical Solar System

Completed builds:

HMS Ballahoo

Posted

 

I think that I'm out of scale with these testing laynards, so I'd like to ask you what size of rope do u use for the laynards as the best indicated ratio for the deadeyes and shrouds?

Thanks in advance.

 

Stergios

 

Stergios,

 

On the Carmen I looked at all the pictures of actual ships (real or reproductions) I could find with Google image search, and then used the highly scientific method of "the size that looked good to me" based on the relationship of the shroud size vs. lanyards based on all the photo's I'd looked at.

 

At the end of the day, nobody is going to be measuring your line, so if it looks good, it is good!

Posted

Hi everybody.

Have you had any experience trying to apply wax to the ropes?

The micro wax layer that rests on the rope creates a undesirable appearance, especially to black lines/ropes...

Thanks.

 

Stergios

Posted

Hi mates, now it's time to learn the blocks, hearts and collars rigging but searching my literature and surfing across the internet I can;t find any tutorial for the basic consecutive steps for the serving....

Any help or reference please?

Thank you

Posted

Hi Snake mates!

A question in brief: for the mizzen lower-mast 0,75 shrouds, how many loops have i to create at the top (around the dowel)? Six (that is to say a loop for each single shroud) or four (for a double and a single shroud of each side)?

Thank you!

Posted

Hi Snake mates!

A question in brief: for the mizzen lower-mast 0,75 shrouds, how many loops have i to create at the top (around the dowel)? Six (that is to say a loop for each single shroud) or four (for a double and a single shroud of each side)?

Thank you!

 

Whenever possible I have done a double loop. In this case I did a double and single for each side.

Jim
-----
Current builds:

HMS Snake
HMS Hood
Mechanical Solar System

Completed builds:

HMS Ballahoo

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