drtrap Posted January 17, 2016 Author #811 Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) This "J" 5mm single block makes my building life difficult as interferes with the fore mast catharpins. I'm thinking to move it a little bit higher (photo), but I'm not sure for the later steps and especially for the placement of the yard.. Edited January 17, 2016 by Stergios Quote
Beef Wellington Posted January 19, 2016 #812 Posted January 19, 2016 Stergios - sorry, not able to take photos at the moment as Snake is hidden away temporarily , will let you know when that changes if it would still be of help. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted January 20, 2016 Author #813 Posted January 20, 2016 Stergios - sorry, not able to take photos at the moment as Snake is hidden away temporarily , will let you know when that changes if it would still be of help. Thank you Jason. Btw, have you looped the topgallant shrouds the same way you used for the topmast and lowermast? Cheers. Quote
Beef Wellington Posted January 20, 2016 #814 Posted January 20, 2016 Yes - exactly the same way. drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted January 21, 2016 Author #815 Posted January 21, 2016 It was a really difficult night, trying to change and adjust the docking point of the fore mast preventer stay block as to not interfere with the catharpins. Photos to follow... Quote
drtrap Posted March 6, 2016 Author #816 Posted March 6, 2016 Hi guys, I'm posting a couple of pics (as usually) just to show you my recent progress. Thank you. Beef Wellington, mort stoll, egkb and 6 others 9 Quote
drtrap Posted March 6, 2016 Author #817 Posted March 6, 2016 The docking point of the fore mast preventer stay block... GrantGoodale, ccoyle, cristikc and 4 others 7 Quote
jim_smits Posted March 6, 2016 #818 Posted March 6, 2016 Good progress! Starting to take shape there. drtrap 1 Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo
Beef Wellington Posted March 6, 2016 #819 Posted March 6, 2016 Looking good Stergios. mort stoll and drtrap 2 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted March 7, 2016 Author #820 Posted March 7, 2016 Hi again. Thank you all for the comments and "likes". Cheers. Quote
kostas_gr Posted March 7, 2016 #821 Posted March 7, 2016 stergios, amazing build log, I am going to use it as reference for my future builds. cheers Quote Current builds: Hermione la Fayette - Artesnia latina 1:89 HMS Victory - Corel 1:98 Completed builds: San Juan Nepomuceno - Artesnia latina 1:90 San Francisco II - Artesnia latina 1:90 Victory cross section - Corel 1:98
drtrap Posted March 7, 2016 Author #822 Posted March 7, 2016 stergios, amazing build log, I am going to use it as reference for my future builds. cheers Hi Kostas, thank you for intro comments. Welcome to the club. Any special build interest? Quote
kostas_gr Posted March 7, 2016 #823 Posted March 7, 2016 AL-San juan nepomuceno built AL- San francisco in progress Also I got a question I am thinking to paint ship's wales black, not sure what kind of color should I use, in order to keep wood grain, thinking to start tests, using enamel colors with high dillution Quote Current builds: Hermione la Fayette - Artesnia latina 1:89 HMS Victory - Corel 1:98 Completed builds: San Juan Nepomuceno - Artesnia latina 1:90 San Francisco II - Artesnia latina 1:90 Victory cross section - Corel 1:98
drtrap Posted March 7, 2016 Author #824 Posted March 7, 2016 AL-San juan nepomuceno built AL- San francisco in progress Also I got a question I am thinking to paint ship's wales black, not sure what kind of color should I use, in order to keep wood grain, thinking to start tests, using enamel colors with high dillution I have'nt any experience using enamel colors. To my knowledge, vallejo's matt black color is all I needed all this time... Quote
drtrap Posted August 26, 2016 Author #825 Posted August 26, 2016 Managed to come back soon. Cheers guys. Stergios mort stoll and jim_smits 2 Quote
jim_smits Posted August 26, 2016 #826 Posted August 26, 2016 Hello! Hope everything is ok Stergios! egkb, mort stoll and drtrap 3 Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo
drtrap Posted September 4, 2016 Author #827 Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) Hello again how you probably remember I've attached temporarily main topmast main & preventer stay (see #821 pics). To continue to the other main and preventer stays I need to have the bowsprit mast in place..... What's your suggestion, 1] to place and fix permanently the bowsprit mast first and 2] fix the other fittings of the area (boomkin, etc) and 3] drill the stem for the respective holes afterwards, or to proceed with adifferent way? Thank you. Stergios Edited September 4, 2016 by Stergios Quote
janet bode Posted September 4, 2016 #828 Posted September 4, 2016 Janet B Hi Stergios i am working on HMS Snake just as you are, she is certainly looking the part.I was wondering where you obtained your Carronades from the ones in my kit are not very good and i thought yours looked excellent. Bosworth 1 Quote
mort stoll Posted September 5, 2016 #829 Posted September 5, 2016 Hi Janet, I got mine from Cornwall Model Boats. They have everything and their service is the best. Mort drtrap 1 Quote Current Build - Caldercraft Victory Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William Waiting to be Launched - Bluejacket Constitution Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society
drtrap Posted September 6, 2016 Author #830 Posted September 6, 2016 Janet B Hi Stergios i am working on HMS Snake just as you are, she is certainly looking the part.I was wondering where you obtained your Carronades from the ones in my kit are not very good and i thought yours looked excellent. Hi Janet Cornwall Model Boats for after market fittings. Quote
janet bode Posted September 6, 2016 #831 Posted September 6, 2016 Janet B Hi Stergios Thanks for the answer i tried Cornwall Model Boats but they had non left in stock so they put them on back order,i think that they are better than the ones in the kit. Good luck with your build hope mine comes out as good as yours. Regards Janet drtrap 1 Quote
drtrap Posted September 7, 2016 Author #832 Posted September 7, 2016 Janet B Hi Stergios Thanks for the answer i tried Cornwall Model Boats but they had non left in stock so they put them on back order,i think that they are better than the ones in the kit. Good luck with your build hope mine comes out as good as yours. Regards Janet Thanks Janet Waiting to see your progress and pics from your build. Keep in touch. Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted September 11, 2016 Author #833 Posted September 11, 2016 Hello again to all the "snakers". Well guys as all we know plans are so confusing almost all the times so I'd like to ask for your advice: a) rope C is tied to the boomkin (a distal groove on the boomkin is advisable)? B2 rope is linked to the p1 deadeye and b1 to the p2, or the opposite? Thank you again in advance. Quote
drtrap Posted September 11, 2016 Author #834 Posted September 11, 2016 (edited) After so many days I realize that 3,5 mm deadeyes were needed for the respective bowsprit fittings and not the 5 mm I attached yesterday..... Except that, a three deadeyes proximal block is important to be noticeable by the plans to the follower builders... I recosrtuction procedure is on the road... Of course a final touch-up and paint finish will follow... Edited September 14, 2016 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted September 11, 2016 Author #835 Posted September 11, 2016 (edited) Hello again to all the "snakers". Well guys as all we know plans are so confusing almost all the times so I'd like to ask for your advice: a) rope C is tied to the boomkin (a distal groove on the boomkin is advisable)? B2 rope is linked to the p1 deadeye and b1 to the p2, or the opposite? Thank you again in advance. I think I'm seeing a kind of block at the edge of the the boomkin on plan 3 and 6.... Edited September 11, 2016 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted September 14, 2016 Author #836 Posted September 14, 2016 Took the decision to temporarily attach the bowsprit and start all the relative procedures (fore, main stay, minor rigging, etc) around it. Permanent fixation, lashing and boomkin fittings, at a later stage Quote
jim_smits Posted September 14, 2016 #837 Posted September 14, 2016 Hi Stergios, Re Boomkins - can't honestly remember when I added them but I simply orientated them perpendicular to the hull and pinned in place. drtrap 1 Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo
drtrap Posted September 25, 2016 Author #838 Posted September 25, 2016 I'm about to serve the thread for the fore preventer stay (D), but I can't locate any 1,25 mm black thread in to the kit to use it as the labelled "D" preventer stay... Is it wrong, in your opinion? Thanks. Quote
foxy Posted September 27, 2016 #839 Posted September 27, 2016 I believe you need heart shape blocks in this area, or at least blocks, not deadeyes. But having not done this ship I could be wrong. Frank Quote
drtrap Posted September 28, 2016 Author #840 Posted September 28, 2016 I believe you need heart shape blocks in this area, or at least blocks, not deadeyes. But having not done this ship I could be wrong. Frank Hi Frank Hearts are definitely required for the fore main and preventer stay. Thanks. Stergios foxy 1 Quote
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