drtrap Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share #211 Posted November 4, 2013 Following your advice, started to solder the strops... Bonding the edges of the strops is'nt so easy, propably my technique is not the appropriate one, as is the first time I'm trying to do this, but step by step it's getting better. Hope that solder bonding to withstand the tension of the shrouds/chainlinks.... JayCub 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted November 4, 2013 Share #212 Posted November 4, 2013 Nice job Stergios those looked to turn out nicely. Did you just use a regular soldering iron? Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share #213 Posted November 4, 2013 Nice job Stergios those looked to turn out nicely. Did you just use a regular soldering iron? Yes Jason, I used a simple, pen-style soldering iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normanh Posted November 4, 2013 Share #214 Posted November 4, 2013 Thats how I did mine Stergios, the solder holds very well and if done carefully is easily covered with a dab of black paint once the flux has been cleaned away. I used a small 10W iron. Norman Quote Norman Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck. Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake. Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share #215 Posted November 5, 2013 (edited) Thats how I did mine Stergios, the solder holds very well and if done carefully is easily covered with a dab of black paint once the flux has been cleaned away. I used a small 10W iron. Norman Hi Norman, is it important the level of power (ie 10W), in this case ? Thank you. Edited November 5, 2013 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share #216 Posted November 10, 2013 Stergios, I'd add the following. Like Jim, I didn't solder mine - I tried and failed! You can bend the metal strops so they close pretty well, but the chains can pop out if there is undue pressure. To alleviate this concern, I ended up putting some epoxy in the slots when all was complete to eliminate this risk. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/509-hms-snake-by-beef-wellington-caldercraft-scale-1-64-first-wooden-ship-build/page-14#entry64038 I'd also suggest you consider the following points, I thought I'd documented what I did pretty well at the time, but going back and reading it afresh there is fair bit omitted. The chains want to be in line with the shrouds and stays. You can get the correct line by tying some thread to a dowel at the appropriate height and then trace where the various fixing points should be. chain1.JPG Given than the two end fixing points are defined (most of the chains attach to the wale) and the deadeyes sit on the channels, the length of the chain is then defined. Using the kit supplied pieces will at best result in a gap. Making your own is an options using thick wire and bending manually - you can get a more authentic look as each chain is custom fit for its position. The kit supplied pieces are all the same size even though the lengths needed vary. Takes longer but for me had more satisfying result. fore chain1.JPG Hi Jason How didi you close the loops of your own (custom made) wire chains? Using epoxy or cyano glue? Thank you again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share #217 Posted November 10, 2013 (edited) Strops soldering is quite difficult. Their material is 'nt copper, so bonding the edges with solder is a real headache for me.... Edited November 10, 2013 by Stergios Beef Wellington 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share #218 Posted November 10, 2013 Dry fitting of the deadeys of the right main channel... Next step is to secure the soldering adding a micro drop of cyano glue, black paint touch up and glue/stabilize the deadeyes to the channlel's slots with cyano. Final step is to fix and glue the pinned channel on the hull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share #219 Posted November 10, 2013 Consecutive steps and photos to trace the long and short chains inclinations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted November 10, 2013 Share #220 Posted November 10, 2013 Hi Jason How didi you close the loops of your own (custom made) wire chains? Using epoxy or cyano glue? Thank you again. Stergios, didn't close the chains with anything, creating the chain with the 'joint' down a side like the PE part gives them a lot of strength. Your strops look great. drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share #221 Posted November 10, 2013 Stergios, didn't close the chains with anything, creating the chain with the 'joint' down a side like the PE part gives them a lot of strength. Your strops look great. ... "PE part" ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted November 10, 2013 Share #222 Posted November 10, 2013 PE - 'photo etch' - its the sheet of the brass metal parts provided Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share #223 Posted November 10, 2013 (edited) Strops soldering is quite difficult. Their material is 'nt copper, so bonding the edges with solder is a real headache for me.... Well I've found the solution.... A little bit of filling was needeed to emerge the undercover copper-material of the strops. The rest of soldering works pretty well now. Thanks Vasilios !! Edited November 10, 2013 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normanh Posted November 10, 2013 Share #224 Posted November 10, 2013 (edited) I had no problem soldering my strops but you do have to ensure the area to be soldered is very clean and I used some extra rosin flux, they are of a copper metal. I have used either a 12W or 25W iron and old fashioned lead based electrical solder. Make sure your wales are in the correct position as mine where out and I had to take out the slack in the chains by building them up with solder. You cant see the error once painted. Norman Edited November 10, 2013 by normanh drtrap 1 Quote Norman Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck. Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake. Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share #225 Posted November 10, 2013 Started with the right main channel as a guide... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share #226 Posted November 10, 2013 I had no problem soldering my strops but you do have to ensure the area to be soldered is very clean and I used some extra rosin flux, they are of a copper metal. I have used either a 12W or 25W iron and old fashioned lead based electrical solder. Norman Yep, I believe that additional rosin flux could help better.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share #227 Posted November 13, 2013 (edited) Started to shape my own chain loops. Temporary placement of the chains... The measurement, assembly and above all closure (by soldering or gluing) of the loops on the model (as the deadeys of the right main channels are permanently glued with cyano) are pretty challenging. My basic concern is the visual appearance of the solder/flux knot that bridges the edges of the loop... Thinking of leave the edges of tha e loops touching each other without any bonding. Edited November 13, 2013 by Stergios egkb, JayCub and Beef Wellington 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted November 13, 2013 Share #228 Posted November 13, 2013 That's looks great Stergios, makes a big difference to the look of the ship doesn't it! The loops are pretty strong without any bonding, and even if there is a small gap they are pretty well hidden if you put them at the back like you've done. Something I found helpful (I took the exact same approach as you with the nails to bend the loops) was to add a number of nails in a circular pattern each with a slightly different distance from the center - that way you can measure the gap and then make a loop of correct size quite quickly. drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share #229 Posted November 13, 2013 (edited) That's looks great Stergios, makes a big difference to the look of the ship doesn't it! The loops are pretty strong without any bonding, and even if there is a small gap they are pretty well hidden if you put them at the back like you've done. Something I found helpful (I took the exact same approach as you with the nails to bend the loops) was to add a number of nails in a circular pattern each with a slightly different distance from the center - that way you can measure the gap and then make a loop of correct size quite quickly. Thank you Jason for the feedback! The problem was the stropped deadeyes of the main channel (starboard) which I had glued permanently, so trying to assemble the custom made loops on it was a very painfull story especially for the occasion of soldering and closing the loops. From a "biomechanical" point of view I was told that only minor pulling forces could be applicable on the loops. I believe that this is not a serious problem even for the next, rigging period.... That's way i tend to not close the loop-rings just to gain a more cosmetic result. Edited November 13, 2013 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share #230 Posted November 13, 2013 (edited) In the other hand I have to assemble five more channels... I could try to assemble and solder the deadeyes and all the channel's "accesories" in advance and finally place and fix them on the channels and the hull respectively, like Jim suggests. That's all for today, I'm leaving the shipyard after the permanent gluing of all the channels on the hull. Edited November 13, 2013 by Stergios egkb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 14, 2013 Author Share #231 Posted November 14, 2013 I was trying to close the chain loops using solder iron, just for practise this afternoon. Those flux knots were in every case highly unwanted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 14, 2013 Author Share #232 Posted November 14, 2013 (edited) Today's progress: all the channels permanently glued in place. Starboard chain links and custom made long chain (closed) loops hanging from the relative channel. Next steps: primer application, painting and final pinning on the hull. Edited November 15, 2013 by Stergios WackoWolf, Beef Wellington and egkb 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share #233 Posted November 17, 2013 Port side ready, channel's tackles "hanging" in place. Finally making my own loops was much easier than I expected.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share #234 Posted November 17, 2013 ...as I'm ready to place my next order (propably to cornwall model boats) I'd like to ask your suggestion my friends. Except the aftermarket next 14 pieces of 32's carronade kits I'm about to order what kind of other fittings (I'm concerned especially for the guns and deck tackling ropes (size, color, etc)) do you suggest to ask for? Thank you as always in advance. Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted November 17, 2013 Share #235 Posted November 17, 2013 Good question Stergios! I'd suggest looking at the pump kit, its very cheap and offers a big improvement on the kit supplied items - C87160 Elm Tree Pumps, 1:64 Scale Can't remember whether you had decided to use the aftermarket belaying pins (they are a huge improvement in the kit supplied stuff) - C86001 Belaying Pin 9.75x1.5mm Walnut Also consider getting some of the small eyebolts, these are pretty useful (for making hooks if you want, handles on the carronade screw, etc). - C83505 Brass Etched Eyelet 0.3mm (250) Part references are from the CMB site. Just a few suggestions... egkb 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share #236 Posted November 17, 2013 ...as I'm ready to place my next order (propably to cornwall model boats) I'd like to ask your suggestion my friends. Except the aftermarket next 14 pieces of 32's carronade kits I'm about to order what kind of other fittings (I'm concerned especially for the guns and deck tackling ropes (size, color, etc)) do you suggest to ask for? Thank you as always in advance. Stergios Hi Jason and thanks all the above mentioned aftermarket fittings are already in my shipyard. Wanted to ask especially for the ropes. Ropes for gun and deck assemblies and tackling. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 24, 2013 Author Share #237 Posted November 24, 2013 (edited) Channels "fittings" in place, in need of a next final touch up of the painting. Edited November 25, 2013 by Stergios Beef Wellington, egkb and JayCub 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share #238 Posted November 25, 2013 (edited) Just wanted to see and hear your opinion regarding the double blocks of 2 mm!! I think that those are more suitable to the 32'lbs carronades... http://www.radekshipmodels.cz/en/list-of-kits-and-accessories/accessory---blocks Edited November 25, 2013 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted November 25, 2013 Share #239 Posted November 25, 2013 They look nice Stergios. The pricing seemed rather complex so difficult to know how expensive this would be. Why not give them a go? drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share #240 Posted November 25, 2013 They look nice Stergios. The pricing seemed rather complex so difficult to know how expensive this would be. Why not give them a go? ...actually I'm looking for my calculator !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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