HMS Victory by Paul0367 - Constructo - Scale 1:94 - First wooden ship build

[Paul0367]

I have been busy again today making more belay pin racks for the inside of the hull walls, along with quite a few ammunition racks loaded with ammo, also I have made the two Belaying cleats.

Just for effect I have pinned the earlier racks I made then put on a diet, on the decks (not glued yet), John the pinning method works perfect, thanks for the tip.

Any one whom is building this kit will notice there are skipped stages, some ive prepaired and some ive just skipped for now, lanterns are all ready but would be vunerable sticking proud of the capatains quarters basically screaming to be knocked off. Gunport flaps ( as there named ) again all need painting and fitting and no doubt the ropes to open and close them, missing on the kits box art, along with the canons and carronades. All these can be fitted later and poise no problem with me ploughing on. Wheeled Cannons will also require strapping to the decks with the required ropes and made blocks.

Edited February 21, 2015 by Paul0367

[Paul0367]

Been moving along and built the platforms to which the stairs to the poop deck are attached, these are 29mm in the contruction notes we work from but the plans and supplied 2mm board are only 22mm, stick with the plans as these are visual and fit with the cannon placements. Due to the platforms being made a few cannons on tressles were required to check and double check they all married up

Oh! these tressles are laser cut and have the usual and cosiderable amount of burnt egdes to sand prior to glueing, I found I could clean the base, instal the sides and after its set I then sanded the whole tressle to clean it, this felt easier than cleaning all the parts individually then building.

[Paul0367]

Well that's your lot from me until mid March, I'm off to Goa tommorow to catch some sun. Take care

[AndyW]

Superb work, love the extra little details being added.

[AndyW]

Bit late i know with an aside comment, was just reading your experiments with varnish.

 

I play with paints a lot, just a word of caution to those that may not know, never use a waterbased product then go over with an oil or uerathane based product, this can lead to a world of hurt.

 

Waterbased will work over uerathane, but some caution is required over an oil based product, particularily when it comes to clearcoats, varnish, laquer what ever. Can result in little belemishes known as fish eyes. These can be easily seen on topcoats.

 

Quick question, read that the original copper plates were 8ft x 14", what size foil tape and measurements did you use?

 

Many thanks Andy

Edited March 13, 2015 by Airbrushpiracy

[Paul0367]

Thanks for the comments, I think I've been lucky regards the varnish as no nasties have formed, I have to use the ? Based, think oil as it needs thinners to clean the brush but the tin does not state. I initially used satin but this was far to shiney so the matt went over to dull it down but struggled to get anything but water base matt. Now I have to use the satins deep absorption rate to match the colour and matt over. My plates are 6mm x 19mm, to be honest I went off images to get her to look close also asked other builders there sizes, I didn't do the maths, especially as the kit didn't even have them on. I did research how / the actual way they were installed to ensure they had the right look. If you go the coppering route buy the dearer coil, it's not much but makes a difference. If you like I could look up my ebay seller and send you his link.

[AndyW]

Cheers Paul.

 

Yes will be going down the copper route, been reading different builds, history etc.....

 

Can see several areas that will be scratch built, also going down the "Trafalgar" colour route as well.

 

The lifeboats in the kit, are they wooden or plastic?

 

Busy looking at options for figures as well, they look like many hours of fun ahead on their own.

[JerseyCity Frankie]

If it was me I would ditch those pins in favor of any other material, they strike my eye as the only thing on your model that is out of scale and it would be a shame to let the pins hold you back. Even with the use of the lathe they are too thick. Picture a scale human hand grasping one. Also as you note above, once you start belaying lines on those pins the space around them will fill up rapidly, so it would be best to start with the maximum amount of empty space between the pins.

Another consideration is that the pins, once there have lines on them and coils hanging under them, will be almost completely obscured from view and the silhouette they offer now will be irrelevant later, it will all be covered in line.

You strike me as the sort of purist that wants wood to represent wood. But let me just plant the idea in your head that short bits of wire can represent the scale diameter of a pin at this scale. Getting wood that small is possible with a draw plate though if you must have wood.

[Paul0367]

Regards the pins, you have read my mind, I've been on holiday and was looking back over my recent work and I fully agree the pins are still huge and there is actually many more on the full size rail. Yes they do get covered in rope but I will re address them and the wire route is a great idea, one I never considered but will be using for all my pins, I could paint them as I have to paint the canon hatches anyway.

Oh the life boats are actually metal on the Contructo kit

Edited March 14, 2015 by Paul0367

[Paul0367]

Well as soon as I read this I got to work on making them thinner. (Well just the One) I must add all the pins were never glued until I was happy with them so I popped one in the lathe and thinned it further, before I went down the wire route. The wood is quite hard and lends to being very thin without breaking.

[AndyW]

Thanks for the answers Paul.

 

That it some thin pin now.

[AndyW]

Castings question Paul,

 

Did you look at the larger Caldercraft figurehead arrangement, also what have you decided for the stern?

[Paul0367]

Stuck with the figurehead I have as im fitting sails eventually and it will be buried in them , stern, remind me?

[AndyW]

I couldn't tell from the picture , but the top decorative piece with the a POW feathers did you just paint the etching, have been considering looking at the Mantau 1/98 casting kit.

[Paul0367]

Yes I painted mine

[Paul0367]

Been turning the pins today and it's a long job, with many nearly done only to snap n scrap. I've also been doing the ones around the outer walls. Progress looks very slow at this point as you would expect the pins to be a quick fit.

[Davesellindge]

Hi Paul

Still keeping an eye on you, I am managing to do a bit I made a complete set of the cross pieces that go into the rear windows only to find they were to big so I am cutting pieces half a millimetre and hope this works as I don't think I can cut them any smaller. Have put some of the whales on and painted a few of the gun ports. Your looks like its just been built and mine looks like its having a refit after a battle still I am enjoying it that's the main thing

[Paul0367]

What you like, am sure it doesn't, that said a lot of mine is reaching its anniversary on April 1st, time flies and there is still a lot to do. Persevere with the window frames, no rush but rewarding in the end. It is nice to see quite a few Contructo Victory builds starting up now on MSW, I got the Haynes manual on the Vic today and it's got some great close ups, one thing that strikes me is how beautifully built she was, meaning the work in making post ornate/ gothic even and the trims not to mention the general stuff was so beautifully carved I just wouldn't want to see it carry out the job intended.

Edited March 20, 2015 by Paul0367

[AndyW]

Looking great Paul.

 

Have been building up my refference collection, the haynes manual, the anatomy of a ship 100 gun Victory, HMS Victory first Rate 1765, the Basl Lavis HMS Victory as she was 1805. Copies of the 24 pen and ink sketches Christine Warburton was commissioned to do in 1963 think it was. Numerous photographs etc lol.

 

Really enjoying the research mixed with continuing battle with HMS Racehorse

 

Regards the First Rate 1765 book, stunning wealth of photographs, nearly all, that it consists of.

 

Loving your build and the details being shown

 

Andy

[Paul0367]

I've got to the point where the ships wheel is to be fitted, why oh why is there only one supplied in a kit where vessels of this size sport two. Surely this tiny casting would have cost peanuts to supply for us. Well im struggling to find a wheel only 16mm in diameter and casting may be the only option as it's quite intricate.

[Davesellindge]

I had a look at Cornwall Model boats (constructo) the smallest is 20mm you would think that they would have the Victory one, it might be worth asking them

[AndyW]

Closest i have possibly seen

 

http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/rb-ships-wheels.html

 

Brass wheel 16mm

Edited March 21, 2015 by Airbrushpiracy

[Paul0367]

Well, I tried at making my own and considering its going to flank the original under the poop deck relatively hidden I am happy enough to save the £8 from Cornwall. Thank you for the heads up though they are beautifully made, I almost ordered two but thought do I really need to. My spend has gone mad lately with the mill, lathe and now the circular saw so im raining in cost.

I simply pushed the original in plasticine, removed it, put the plasticine in the freezer for half hour, mixed two part epoxy, smoothed it in and pressed it with my finger Making the overspill very thin to prevent more work removing it. When dry, boil the kettle and pout it over the mold, the plasticine vanishes leaving your cast to clean up. If not Cornwall model boats is the aanswer.

[AndyW]

Very nicely done indeed mate, turned out superb.

 

Think I may still go for those brass ones they look sweet, building up a shopping list, caldercraft yarns, paints, wheels, cannon balls, etc..........toying with the 1/98 castings as well lol.

[Paul0367]

I had to go to the Caldercraft yarn as the Contructo is green, after cutting my teeth on this kit that's on my wish list, the Caldercraft Victory. I'm sure you've seen the parts in the kit, beautifully made. That said I may do the Cutty Sark next for a change and come back to the Caldercraft Vic,

I'm fitting the wheels I have and as im building her in full sail and they will be difficult to see anyway hidden under the poop with a binnacle cabinet in front.

Have you started her yet.?

[AndyW]

No not yet, found a deal on this one, my wife has bought it for me as part of my 50th in July.

 

Currently working on HMS Racehorse that I started 8 years ago, has fought me all the way that I got disheartened by it. A chance conversation with a colleague, made me have another look. So much so it should make a pleasing model when finished.

 

After the Victory I think both Cutty Sark and Thermoplyae will be on the to do list.

 

With your build I can see what I want to scratch build, really couldn't justify the space for it lol, however I am eyeing up perhaps a cross section model along the way to compliment it.

 

You have given me plenty food for thought, along with all the photographs sketches etc.......I know what you mean by the mostly hidden, but my wife knows me ha ha, as I have discussed various aspects of this kit, she recognises the "but I'd know" as I make a supplementary shopping list.

 

Andy

Edited March 21, 2015 by Airbrushpiracy

[Paul0367]

Steering wheels fitted only the navigation cabinet next to build and hide them even more than the poop deck already does. Shame the kit cuts corners here. That said the navigation table with the all important compass is also forgotten. Come on Contructo we payed for a model here and we're forced to scratch build key component.

[AndyW]

The wheels look great Paul.

 

So that is two compasses and a lantern to add to the scratch build notes, you probably already know but a bit of info for others looking in, the binnacle houses two compasses with a lantern in the middle.

[Paul0367]

Well we have to re create that chest of drawers, looks out of place there

[AndyW]

Chart drawers?

 

Think it's is a difficult one regarding the kit...

 

The Caldercraft is a little bigger, is supposedly all singing and dancing but costs 2.5 to 3 x the price.

 

For a lot of modelers it is probably acceptable if you built it from the box....as in as you can only really see one wheel that's why they supply one ......

 

The flat brass etch pieces instead of cast, am I right to say that the "doorway" entrance had to be built as it wasn't supplied as a cast item, going by your photos.

 

The other side. Is you would have thought that the essentials for detail would have been supplied.

 

Regardless if mine looks half as good as yours, I will be well satisfied, though I am heading down the paint route.