Louie da fly Posted March 6, 2022 Share #61 Posted March 6, 2022 Making very good progress, Norseman. Most people seem to have trouble with the planks - not sure if it's a fault in the kit or just the way it goes with such a complex shape. I think you're right to try making your own rudder fittings. Plywood really isn't suitable for something like that. Steven Cathead and Ian_Grant 2 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler FINISHED Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36379-mistydeefer-by-louie-da-fly-finished-restoration-decor-yacht/#comment-1040663 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Ensign Posted March 6, 2022 Share #62 Posted March 6, 2022 Fine looking hull, I love the elegance of Viking Long ships, well done.👍 B.E. Cathead 1 Quote Current Build: HMS Indefatigable-1794-by-blue-ensign-vanguard-models-164-scale Medway-longboat-1742-by-blue-ensign-½”-scale Completed builds: HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign. 1:64 scale - Vanguard Models Queen-Anne-Royal-Barge-circa-1700-by-Blue-Ensign Fifie fishing boat Lady Eleanor Muirneag-1903-–-a-scottish-zulu-fishing-boat-164-scale-based-on-the-vanguard-models-zulu-kit/ HM Cutter Alert 1777 HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 18th-century-English-longboat-by-Blue-Ensign-ms-148-scale/ finished 18thc English Pinnace by Blue Ensign-Model-Shipways-1:24 scale/ finished HMS-Pegasus-by-Blue-Ensign-finished-Victory-Models-1:64-scale/ Heller Seventy-four 1:150 scale - modified Le Superbe/Le Glorieux kit after Boudriot, waterline setting with sails. The schooner Pickle, Jotika pob kit 1:64 scale, my interpretation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norseman Posted March 7, 2022 Author Share #63 Posted March 7, 2022 Steven thanks for the kind words. I have the rudder fittings cut out I just have to sand it down to their final shape. Thanks also to Blue Ensign for his support. It does have a nice look to it. Cathead 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norseman Posted March 18, 2022 Author Share #64 Posted March 18, 2022 I have finally got the top 2 planks installed on both sides of the ship. It turned out better than I thought. The only thing is, there is not much overlap on the top plank to the bottom plank in places. Hopefully this will not be a problem. BLACK VIKING, Archi, GrandpaPhil and 9 others 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted March 19, 2022 Share #65 Posted March 19, 2022 Of course you could take the top plank off, make a new, slightly wider one for each side and do it all over again. But why? Who's going to look to see how much overlap there is? Apart from anything else, it's invisible - the only way you can check is to measure the distance from the top to the bottom of the top plank both inside and outside and compare the two. The model is looking good. You're doing fine. Steven BLACK VIKING, Cathead and Ian_Grant 3 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler FINISHED Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36379-mistydeefer-by-louie-da-fly-finished-restoration-decor-yacht/#comment-1040663 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cathead Posted March 19, 2022 Share #66 Posted March 19, 2022 The only way I could see a problem is if the narrow overlap produced a weak glue joint, such that the planks separated later on, either as you're handling the model and flexing the hull, or as the wood naturally shrinks and swells with environmental changes. On my Viking longship, I had some plank joints like this that cracked open later in the build during handling. The gaps were minor and I decided to ignore them (you can only see them looking straight down between the planks) but it is technically a concern. There's such a long run of glue connecting the plank edges that you'll likely be fine if any one place gives out. Model looks great overall! Quote Eric Current builds: scratchbuilt Missouri River steamboat Peerless (1893); 1:1 scale timber-framed outdoor kitchen Nautical builds (kits): USS Cairo; NRG capstan project; NRG half-hull; Viking longship; US revenue cutter; 18th century longboat; Bounty launch Missouri River craft (scratchbuilt): 1853 Missouri River steamboat Arabia; 1865 steamboat Bertrand; Lewis & Clark barge; keelboat; 1876 steamboat Far West Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norseman Posted March 20, 2022 Author Share #67 Posted March 20, 2022 (edited) Thanks for the input Steven and Cathead. Cathead, I have had a couple of joints come apart when handling also. So far I have put some glue back into the joints and its worked. I am finding as I put more pieces on the ship the more sturdy it gets. I am now installing some veneer on to the dragon head and down on to the keel of the ship. Edited March 20, 2022 by norseman two pictures the same md1400cs, Eindride, Archi and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted March 20, 2022 Share #68 Posted March 20, 2022 53 minutes ago, norseman said: I am finding as I put more pieces on the ship the more sturdy it gets. Yes, it's a nice surprise to discover that (I still remember my first time). It's amazing how sturdy they get - much stronger than one would expect from looking at them. 54 minutes ago, norseman said: I am now installing some veneer on to the dragon head and down on to the keel of the ship. One of the drawbacks of plywood keels. I prefer solid wood. Still, most people seem to manage. Steven Cathead 1 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler FINISHED Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36379-mistydeefer-by-louie-da-fly-finished-restoration-decor-yacht/#comment-1040663 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudybob Posted April 4, 2022 Share #69 Posted April 4, 2022 Nice build. Where did you get those green clips first seen in post #8. Can we get a close up of one please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrus Manus Posted October 20, 2022 Share #70 Posted October 20, 2022 Clinker is INSANELY hard. Cogs and Norse ships are extremely challenging for this reason and for a general lack of historical documentation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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