Oseberg Viking Ship by Norseman - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th century

[Louie da fly]

Making very good progress, Norseman. Most people seem to have trouble with the planks - not sure if it's a fault in the kit or just the way it goes with such a complex shape.

 

I think you're right to try making your own rudder fittings. Plywood really isn't suitable for something like that.

 

Steven

[Blue Ensign]

Fine looking hull, I love the elegance of Viking Long ships, well done.👍

 

B.E.

[norseman]

Steven thanks for the kind words. I have the rudder fittings cut out I just have to sand it down to their final shape.

 

Thanks also to Blue Ensign for his support. It does have a nice look to it.

[norseman]

I have finally got the top 2 planks installed on both sides of the ship. It turned out better than I thought. The only thing is, there is not much overlap on the top plank to the bottom plank in places. Hopefully this will not be a problem.

 

[Louie da fly]

Of course you could take the top plank off, make a new, slightly wider one for each side and do it all over again.

 

But why?  Who's going to look to see how much overlap there is? Apart from anything else, it's invisible - the only way you can check is to measure the distance from the top to the bottom of the top plank both inside and outside and compare the two.

 

The model is looking good. You're doing fine.

 

Steven

[Cathead]

The only way I could see a problem is if the narrow overlap produced a weak glue joint, such that the planks separated later on, either as you're handling the model and flexing the hull, or as the wood naturally shrinks and swells with environmental changes. On my Viking longship, I had some plank joints like this that cracked open later in the build during handling. The gaps were minor and I decided to ignore them (you can only see them looking straight down between the planks) but it is technically a concern. There's such a long run of glue connecting the plank edges that you'll likely be fine if any one place gives out. 

 

Model looks great overall!

[norseman]

Thanks for the input Steven and Cathead. Cathead, I have had a couple of joints come apart when handling also. So far I have put some glue back into the joints and its worked. I am finding as I put more pieces on the ship the more sturdy it gets.

 

I am now installing some veneer on to the dragon head and down on to the keel of the ship.  

 

 

Edited March 20, 2022 by norseman
two pictures the same

[Louie da fly]

53 minutes ago, norseman said:

I am finding as I put more pieces on the ship the more sturdy it gets.

 

Yes, it's a nice surprise to discover that (I still remember my first time). It's amazing how sturdy they get - much stronger than one would expect from looking at them.

 

54 minutes ago, norseman said:

I am now installing some veneer on to the dragon head and down on to the keel of the ship.  

 

One of the drawbacks of plywood keels. I prefer solid wood. Still, most people seem to manage.  

 

Steven

[rudybob]

Nice build. Where did you get those green clips first seen in post #8. Can we get a close up of one please

[Ferrus Manus]

Clinker is INSANELY hard. Cogs and Norse ships are extremely challenging for this reason and for a general lack of historical documentation.