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Posted

Hey Paul, Ebay. It is actually seamstresses pattern marking tool. I think you can buy them new on line. I had one that wasn't nearly as old as this one, but gave it away 6 or 7 years ago when I got out of ship modeling for awhile. I love using the cooper foil tape. It lays great and is quite a bit cheaper than ordering the copper plating. It took a tad bit over one roll to copper the Vic which was about $7.00 for a roll. The drawback is, that you have to do your own rivet markings. But if I ordered the Copper plating from Cornwall for the Vic, it would have cost a great deal more.

 

I hope you and family had a wonderful Christmas as well.

 

Mike          

Posted

Hi Lawrence, a Happy New Year to you as well and I hope that you have great success with the Anna Parker. With your skill and dedication to detail, I don't see where you could go wrong. Yes, I would like your imput on my AL Vic review even if it's to point out flaws in the kit or things you chose to change with your build. I'll be looking for that cloud of saw dust after the New Year :D 

Posted

Hi Mike

I've ordered the copper tape and tool for the job, could I put in a request of a few pictures fore / aft full side and if poss below and finally the rudder. All this to aid me in the copper install. Also did you cut full hull length strips or cut them to manageable strips and join them and I'm assuming you run the rivits from behind the tape then fit and score the joints after. Sorry for all the questions but theres little around about this that I can see.

Posted

I use the riveting tool on the copper side of the tape and run it along each edge of the tape before installing. I will pull 10 feet or so of the copper tape from the spool as I mark it with the tool. Then I lay the tape strips in full length layers on the hull in one solid piece if possible. Then I come back with a pencil and mark the tape and then score it with a hobby knife to indicate individual plates. It saves a ton of time compared to cutting the tape into individual plates and then installing. Start at the waterline and work your way down towards the keel. The rudder itself is plated the same, but with much smaller copper tape strips and is done before mounting to the model. I try to line up the copper plates on the rudder to the copper strips on the hull as best I can to give it more of a pleasing appearance. I have it mounted to the board so this was about the best that I could do.  

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi Mike 

     I enjoy reading your victory build it's coming along pretty good I have two questions could you give me Artesania Latina e-mail 

  address and did your Latina Victory come with the copper sheeting or did you have to purchase it  separately and what size would 

    be used for this size kit thank you 

                              Ronald 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I used some of the HMS Victory wood from the real ship that I received from England to fashion the bitts and the anchor davits from. These will be left natural to show the beauty of the wood. I hope to use more of the wood from the real Victory ship on other parts of the model, but it is VERY brittle and dry.

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Edited by mtdoramike
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

She's a beauty Mike. Very nice!

 

Cheers

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Here is a little update on the Victory ship model Library donation. I stopped by the Library the other day to meet with the head of the Library and to check and measure for placement of the ship model and case. I was asked to do a power point presentation with pictures of the progression of the model build as well as a short biography of the real HMS Victory ship to include as to why I chose the Victory as the subject for the build at the model unvailing. But like I told the Librarian, power pointing was well after my time, so she said they would take care of putting together most of the presentation. I'm also including not only the ship model, but I'm also donating the display case as well as a nice binder with the history of the Victory, history of the building of the model as well as anyone or company that I have dealt with during the build of the model will also get honorable mention as well, which will accompany the model.

 

I hope to have plenty of pictures and possible a video of the unvailing to post on MSW.

 

 

Mike    

Edited by mtdoramike
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well I have the display case on order from Abordage total on the 55 X 40 X 20 (inside measurements) with plexi and mahogany base and frame is like $870.00. I also ordered and received the special name plate from North Country Trophies in WI. total on this was $6.00 for the two inch X four inch brass engraved plate. I will also include a nice binder along with the model and display case, which will give a bio of the real Victory as well as a sequence of events while building the model as well as a list of people and companies that I have dealt with during the build of this model as honorable mention. The name plate is stunning.

 

 

Mike 

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Posted

It's a sizable chunk of cash, but I think well worth it, especially for these larger ships 4 feet or more. Glass is just so heavy, not to mention dangerous if broken.

That's a good deal for a name plate so nicely done also. Befitting a ship of her caliber.

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

Posted

Thanks George. Yes, that was the best price hands down that I found for a display case of this magnitude WITH wood base and frames rather than clear view or fish tank look. I don't think people really consider the "after the model situations like displaying such a beast". I knew going in that I wouldn't be keeping the Vic so I had no worries about where to display her. Now, I knew that I would have to get a display case for her and assumed the cost would be $500.00-$600.00 and boy was I wrong. You can make a display case this large for about $600.00 as long as you know that you will more than likely be left with either red oak or some other type of wood readily available at your local lumber yard or home improvement store.

 

Mike 

Posted

Thanks Boyd, I was actually quite surprised by the $6.99 price tag of the heavy brass engraved name plate. The last engraved name plate that I got locally about 7 years ago only had like two lines engraved and cost me double that price. I happened upon North Country Trophies on Ebay :rolleyes:

 

Mike 

Posted (edited)

Your welcome, and I'll keep North Country Trophies in mind when I get to that stage.

 

I spent 3 years building a ground up Home Theater addition to our house (carpentry is one of my hobbies) and I had several plastic plaques made for my displays of movie memorabilia (swords, knives, etc) that I ended up getting rid of.  I may give it another go with brass at some point.  

 

I'm thinking about building a display cabinet myself only because I want to match all the woodwork in the theater (all Australian Jarrah wood).  My HMS Bounty will be proudly displayed in the theater with a "Mutiny on the Bounty" movie poster right behind the display case. 

 

I sure hope I get the model built faster than the Home Theater  :)

 

Keep up the great work.

 

Boyd

Edited by thomaslambo

Boyd 

 

Current Build - HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina - Scale1:48

 

 

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