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Posted

Back on the pre-crash MSW I had posted a question asking for advice on the best accessories to get with the table saw, and just as funding looks like it might be available disaster struck :(

 

Therefore can I please ask for members thoughts on which accessories are worth having, and which will only form a dust trap in the workshop.

 

:dancetl6:

Current build: Lady Nelson

Posted

I have most of the accessories. As my shippingcosts for heavvy machines to Sweden are well expencive. I figured I might aswell get it all in one go.

The most used are no doubt the micrometer stop. When you get the hang of it, it gives you fantastic precision to your cuts down to 1/100 of a mm.

The extended rip fence and miter extension is also very practical to cut angles and save fingertips I suppose.

A few different blades Is a good idea. I usually use the slitblade as I mostly cut tiny stuff.

A zero clearance insert is a must have for your slitblades as it ads to the safety of the machine as small parts wont get jammed by the blade.

Ask for a few extra screws and bolts as they have a tendency to run and hide in the sawdust.

 

I recently bought the tilting table but have not yet tried it.

Basicly if you are a kit builder you will enjoy the micrometer, extended rip fence a slitblade and zero clearance insert. If your looking at scratch building and therefor more advanced use of the saw . Well the more the merrier perhaps.

 

Hope it helps a bit and good luck with your purchase. You will not be dissapointed.

 

Erik

Posted

Hi Neill,

 

IMHO the accessories you will need the most are the Extended Rip Fence, Miter
Extension and Zero-Clearance Inserts. How many inserts depends on how many types
of blades you will be using. I have one insert for each type. Other accessories
are nice but these are the ones I use the most.

 

I hope this helps.



 

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

Posted

Neill, I agree with Erik and Rusty.  The extended rip fence, zero clearance inserts and the .040 slitting blade, are the items I use the most.  I made my own miter extension out of a piece of hard wood so, yes, definitely the miter extension.  Been thinking about the the micro stop and some additional blades down the road, but I'll order those when the time comes.

 

 

"I've told you a million times, don't exaggerate   ;) "

 Current builds:

 

  H.M.S. TRITON Cross Section by Bbrockel - Scratch Build - Scale 1:48

  US Brig Syren by Bbrockel - Model Shipways -Scale 1:64

Posted (edited)

Hi Neill,

 

My thoughts align with Rusty.  I bought the micrometer stop but rarely use it (Eric has obviously found a good use, I haven't for the cutting methods I use), and I use my Byrnes sander to create bevel angles so the angle table is simply a "nice to have" for me.  I have several blades with different kerfs (to assist in cutting grating stock etc) with a zero-tollerance insert for each.  You can make up your own from wood - but Jim's are purpose made, fit properly and are relatively cheap.

 

Due to the distance, I have also invested in a spare belt (not needed yet) so that should I need it, there is no delay in shipping time :)

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted

I have discovered that all of the attachments, including the tilting table, eventually are indispensable.

 

I have also shown a few photos of a sliding crosscut table I built, with a sliding stop for repetitive cutting to length (always put a spacer between the sliding stop and the workpiece that you remove right before the cut, to avoid binding the saw). I use this constantly.

 

Mark

 

post-477-0-79853600-1362013416.jpg

post-477-0-69044500-1362013423.jpg

post-477-0-99035100-1362013429.jpg

Posted

Hi Mark:

 

Thanks for showing the Crosscut Table.  I have a Byrnes saw, but I'm new to using table saws in general and seeing what others have done is really very helpful.  Do you (or others) have any other examples of jigs or homemade accessories for a small table saw?

 

I'm also not sure of how to make the cut in a zero-tolerance insert - do you use the actual saw blade to cut the slit?

 

Thanks!

 

Frank

Posted

Hi Frank.I don't have any jigs and such but to cut the insert I do use the same size blade. It's aluminum  and doesn't seem to dull the blade.

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

Posted

Hi Frank.I don't have any jigs and such but to cut the insert I do use the same size blade. It's aluminum  and doesn't seem to dull the blade.

 

Can that be demonstrated? I can't visualize how to do that.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

Posted

Turn off the saw. Lower the saw blade below the insert, put in the insert and tighten the screws to firmly hold it down, turn on the saw, and raise the blade through the insert while it is running.

 

Thanks.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hello everyone made a similar table with slight modifications
at the base and end walls made T shaped grooves all the stops and guides are fixed in any position
did stops for making cuts at an angle of Dublin, it was necessary to sharpen the cutter sharpening angle now 80 degrees

 

всем привет сделал себе похожей стол с небольшими доработками

в основании и торцевой стенки сделал Т образные пазы все упоры и направляющие фиксируются в любом положении

сделал упоры для изготовления врезок под углом Дя этого пришлось заточить фрезу угол заточки теперь 80 градусов

4271da4f73ca.jpg8f26835c5bb4.jpg

94e58ef3a6d8.jpg1f9d18474018.jpg

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