US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship

[Philippe]

Thanks Ron for your quick answer.

For the building log I will think about it.

Keep doing the beautifull work.

Philippe

[src]

Ron,

I discovered your build a few days ago and have been taking time every evening to catch up, still have a few pages to go.

Great job! I love your willingness to carve into a finished piece to correct it.

 

So many things to comment on but I will limit myself to two;

Love your ebony stain, where did you learn about it? Do you have any idea what the tea is for? Does the tannic acid play a part like I suspect?

And you oven, the only thing I see missing is a bird on the rotisserie.

 

This is another one of those builds I will be checking in on to see progress but also "How did he do that again?"

Sam

[rlb]

Thank you, Sam.  I'm hoping to get back to work on my model soon.

 

Regarding the ebony stain:  I was unhappy with Minwax ebony stain--I was only able to get a dark brown, not real black.  I didn't want to paint the wood, so I think I just googled "ebony stain" and started looking at web pages.  Most described the iron in vinegar part, but I quickly came across the excellent article that included the "bark tea." ingredient.  Yes, it's used to get more tannic acid into the wood, which in combination with the iron rust/vinegar turns quite black.

 

I sometimes forget that the little stove is inside the hull!

 

Ron

[rlb]

Hello all,

 

After many months, I have finally done some more work on my Oneida!  Hopefully this will be a more sustained period of work than the last one.

 

And it's not all that exciting to show--I've continued exactly where I left off--making deadeyes.

 

Here's a picture of the materials and tools I've used in making them: a 5mm dowel of Cherry, a small brass drilling jig, pin-vise and bit (#71 0.65mm), a sandpaper block and assorted files-- 

 

 

 

 

Here's a closer shot of 20 deadeyes (half the required amount of this size).  On the left are "blanks" with the holes drilled and a score line around the circumference.  On the right are the "finished" deadeyes, which will eventually be stained black.   It's very hard to see, but the finished one leaning upright toward the bottom is showing its backside, with the one hole that is not "eased" for the lanyard rope, as that is where the stopper knot will be, for the upper deadeye in each pair--

 

 

 

The pin was in the last shot for scale, but this picture gives a better idea of how small these are.  And these are the largest on the model.  Others will be 4mm and 3.5mm--

 

 

 

That's all for now,

Ron

Edited November 23, 2013 by rlb

[russ]

Ron:

The deadeyes look very good. Nice work on the jig. That makes it a lot easier in my experience.

 

Russ

[j21896]

Welcome back Ron!  Good to see new pictures for one of my favorite builds.

 

Cheers,

Robert

[rlb]

Thanks, Russ.   I can't imaging doing these without the jig.

 

Thanks, Robert!   I worked on turning out more deadeyes today, and started to make the bulwark pinrails.   Pictures coming soon.

 

Ron

[Elia]

Ron,

 

Very nice deadeyes! The jig looks like it worked like a charm. I'm in-process on my deadeyes. Mine are 4mm in diameter. I've made a similar jig for locating the holes, though I may have make another with altered hole locations. Your deadeye strop recess, the hole location and spacing, the easing of the holes- very very nice sir.

 

Cheers,

 

Elia

[rlb]

Thank you very much, Elia.

 

And thanks also for your recent PM inquiry on the deadeyes, which ended up giving me the impetus to "get going" again.

 

Good luck on your deadeyes.  Getting right the spacing of the holes on the jig was not easy; it took me four or five tries before I was satisfied.  And I'm sure the smaller they are, the more difficult it is!   But the good thing is, once you've got it, they will all come out well.

 

The strop recess I didn't do as I had described to you (which was a faulty memory!).  Here's a photo, though I'm not sure how understandable it is--

 

 

 

I twirled the dowel against one edge of a triangular file, guided and braced by the pressure of my fingers, scoring a line that I later filed deeper once the deadeye was parted off.  It was all done by eye and feel, and on some the scored line was not located as well as it could have been--indeed in that photo the scored line is too far down on the dowel, it should be closer to the end of the dowel.

 

 

Ron 

 

 

 

 

[rlb]

Thank you, Brian.

 

Still working on the 5mm deadeyes.   All drilled and parted off now, and I'm just filing them one by one as I watch the World Series.   Exactly 20 out of 40 (not counting two spares I cut) finished at this point.

 

Time is spent on each one searching the floor, as, on average, I drop each one at least once!

 

Ron

[src]

Time is spent on each one searching the floor, as, on average, I drop each one at least once!

 

Ron

 I see I am not the only one cursed with dis-aperating parts! I am constantly amazed at just how far those little buggers can fly. And of course they go into full stealth mode when they land.

Sam

[rlb]

Hi Sam,

 

Yes, and there is no predicting which way these pieces will go when they attempt their escape.   My floor is not carpeted, and if I'm lucky I can hear them hit the floor--it sometimes gives me a clue.    I'm amazed I didn't lose one. 

 

Here are the 40 5mm deadyes (plus two spares--in case my luck runs out in the retrieval of escapees.), and what is left of the 5mm dowel--

 

 

 

Next I will make the 24 4mm deadeyes.  I think the leftover dowel may be just long enough for these.  If I don't get all 24, it's okay I only need 12 for the hull.   The second 12 won't be needed until the masting and rigging is well underway.

 

I'll sand the dowel down to 4mm, make a new drilling jig, and start on the next batch.  

 

Ron

 

 

[trippwj]

Nice work on those, Ron.  They looks very realistic.

[rlb]

Thanks, Wayne!

 

 

I spent four hours yesterday trying to make the 4mm deadeye jig, with no success.  They have to be tested by actually using them to drill holes in the dowel.   While unsoldering failed attempts I lost three of the brass rings that hold the jig onto the dowel.   How I could drop 40 deadeyes without losing one, and then lose these brass rings one after another, is beyond my comprehension, but that's how it went.  I keep looking for them, but I haven't found any of them.

 

 

Today, it still took a few tries, but I got my 4mm jig--

 

 

 

Across the top are just some of the many attempts at drilling well-spaced holes for the jig.  They probably look okay in the photo but for various reasons, they're not.

 

The jig and deadeye on the left is the good 5mm version.   The next is the good 4mm jig that I made today, and a "blank" made from it. (only the holes drilled--it still needs filing work to finish) 

 

Next after that is an example of an unsuccessful attempt.  The holes are not quite centered (poor placement while soldering  the "holding" ring) and slightly too far apart (poor location of the holes on the flat piece).  Those are are two main ways the jig can be bad.  The holes can be poorly spaced, or the ring (which doesn't show on any of these in the photo because it's underneath the flat piece with holes) can be soldered slightly off in relation to the holes.

 

Farthest to the right is another unsuccessful attempt, on this one, the holes are too close together.  However, I think this spacing will work well for the 3.5mm deadeyes, so I will keep that brass piece-it just needs a 3.5mm brass "holding" ring made.

 

I've wasted some of my short dowel on failed attempts,  I'll be interested to see how many 4mm deadeyes I can still get out of what's left.

 

 

Ron

[russ]

Ron:

I am glad you got the jig sorted out.

 

This is one reason why I make my deadeye jigs out of wood. Maybe not as durable, but I can make new ones with ease and they will last long enough to make what deadeyes I need for a given small vessel project.

 

Russ

[rlb]

Sam, Elia, Russ.

 

Thanks for the words of support.  Even though it's been a lot of trial and error making the pieces, I'm still having fun.  (Well, not so much when I lose them!)

 

I never considered wood for the jig, but it sounds like a good idea for small numbers.   Even the brass "wears out".  The hole pattern piece is pretty thin brass (so it's easier for me to drill the pilot holes, considering how many tries it takes to get right), and after drilling 40+ deadeyes the holes have become slightly enlarged.  I don't need as many of the smaller deadeyes.

 

 

Ron

Edited November 3, 2013 by rlb

[rlb]

Hi Don,

 

I don't recall which frame number it was, but yes, one of the half frames was patterned at the full height, and needs to be cut down for the gun port.

 

Sounds like you are making progress!

 

Ron

[rlb]

And speaking of slow progress--

 

I've made 13 4mm deadeyes.   Twelve will get attached to the channels on the hull, and one extra.  My dowel won't yield the 12 more that I need, so I'm just going to wait until the rigging is under way to do those, along with the 3.5mm deadeyes that I will need for the top mast shrouds.   By the way, I found one of the brass rings I had lost (not that it's of any real use to me now)!

 

 

 

It's on to the pinrails, and miscellaneous deck work. 

 

 

Ron

Edited November 4, 2013 by rlb

[russ]

Those deadeyes look very good. The jig really makes a difference in getting the holes lined up. Nice work.

 

Russ

[src]

Ron, 

those are a testament to your patience! Nice work. 3.5mm?? Yikes! I am not sure I could focus that small.

Sam

[hamilton]

Great work Ron - I agree with Sam about it being a testament to patience!

hamilton

[rlb]

Thanks, Russ, Sam, and Hamilton.

 

I think a good degree of patience is one of the requirements of model ship building.  There have been times when I haven't had enough, and then the second requirement comes in--willingness to do it over! 

 

The third requirement is good magnification headgear!

 

Ron

[rlb]

Pinrails--

 

 

Here are the pieces, roughly cut--

 

 

 

The pencil mark is scribed from the overhang of the rail, you can see that they are not all equal (especially the lower right piece--which is the forward most starboard piece). 

 

I scribed a line from the inboard face (unfortunately this doesn't show well in the photos), and marked the holes to be drilled with a pencil then a pin.  The scribed line will get sanded away as the piece is thinned to the right thickness-

 

 

 

After drilling all the holes, I finished one piece down to the correct thickness and shape, to make sure it would look right--

 

 

 

Here's a comparison between the rough pieces and the finished one--

 

 

 

When I was satisfied with this, I sanded the rest down, and epoxied brass wire anchors into each--

 

 

 

Here they are laid on the deck--

 

 

 

Next will be gluing them into the bulwarks.

 

 

Ron

Edited November 4, 2013 by rlb

[Elia]

Ron,

 

The finished deadeyes look great, and now you are well towards your bulwarks pinrails - very very nice. Once I get my model shipyard back up and running I look forward to working on my deadeyes.

 

Cheers,

 

Elia

[rlb]

Thanks, Elia.

 

I always look forward to seeing your work.   Arethusa is a beautiful model.

 

Ron

[rlb]

Pinrails:

 

 

Here they are dry fit to the bulwarks--

 

 

 

Closer photo with my one homemade brass belaying pin--these (once all 80 or so are made!) will be blackened--

 

 

 

They aren't glued yet.  I'm waiting to glue these and some more cleats all at once.  I'm also waiting while I think about whether to stain the pin rails black, or leave them "natural"--

 

 

 

I think I need to finish everything else that's needed inboard on the deck, before finishing the outer hull (channels, chain plates, head rails).   That means the mast pin rails, the pumps, capstan, mast partners, bowsprit step, the lower masts; the list goes on.   

 

Ron

Edited November 5, 2013 by rlb

[russ]

The pin racks look good. I agree that having hidden pins to anchor them is a good idea. I do this with bamboo or hardwood pins, but the brass pins ought to work well. Nice work.

 

Russ

[WackoWolf]

Very nice clean build. Your doing a wonderful job. The detail is outstanding, excellent work. Keep the pictures coming. And I agree with doing everything inboard on the deck before moving on.

[Elmer Cornish]

yes  i agree wonderful build!!!  would love to get an onieda  myself,, would ya mind me bugging ya for tips on a build ? 

[rlb]

Thank you, Russ, Joe, and Elmer.

 

Wood is probably a better idea for the concealed fastening pins.   It doesn't bend the way wire can, so would offer more resistance and greater strength to the joint.  On the other hand, wood will break if the bending force is strong enough.   I put these in as some "insurance", and it does make locating the pieces properly when gluing easier.  Hopefully there won't ever be enough stress on the pin rails to test them!

 

Elmer, if you decide to build an Oneida, I'll do my best to help you, if needed.

 

Ron