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I am starting planking my hull of a Virginia 1819, this is my first time having a go at planking so little unsure what should occur as I work it, I have read some of the information on this site but got a little lost so hoped it would become clearer as I started it.


I have enclosed a picture of the two guide rails.

I first fitted the top rail to give me the 5mm gap required from the deck to the top of the first hull plank for fitting of the bulwarks,  I then started in the middle of the ship and places the lower rail with a 20mm gap to allow 4 planks to be fitted in-between.


My concern is how much the gap closes up at the bow of the ship,  I used a set of plank bending pliers to help it follow the shape of the hull and this is where the planking wants to naturally lie, just wanted to make sure this looked right to the more experienced builders or have I made a school boy error?


Many thanks for any advice.



Edited by Marvi
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Have look here:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/   The first pinned topic references the database.  Have look also at the other topics in the Database.    The last pinned topic is captured from a build log on MSW 1.0 is a pretty good starting point.

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               


Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         



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What you're seeing Marvi is what naturally occurs during the planking process.  The space narrows toward the bow necessitating a narrowing of the planks (or fewer planks) in that area.  This is handled by heeding the advice contained in the links Mark Taylor provided.....generally either spiling the planks or using drop planks.


Conversely, the opposite will be encountered in the stern where there is more area to cover.  The planking references will help you here as well by suggesting the addition of 'stealer' planks.


You haven't made a 'school boy error' but rather a discovery.  You were wise to ask the question.



Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64


Previous Builds :


US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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You may consider adjusting the 20mm guide.  The planking would probably work better if the land at the stem was lower - closer to mimicing the trac of a waterline. 

NRG member 45 years



HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly


Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers


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