Martin W

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  1. Yes, we are hoping. Whenever a site changes itself like this, users can make serious mistakes, since buttons and actions don't work the same as in the earlier format. So let's all hope that such mistakes had been expected and a safety net was in place. Martin
  2. I want to add my vote for BE's log standing among the premier logs of MSW. Oh, do, do find it, and broadcast the good news loudly.
  3. Believe me, we've all asked stupider questions. The point here is that you find out what you need to know, and there's always someone who has the answer.
  4. Welcome to MSW. Indeed there are quite a few Swan builders, and we all enjoy having more around. So, as EJ says, start up a build log, and show us what step you're on. I'm looking forward to seeing your work! Cheers, Martin
  5. There are some good build logs here for the Badger & the Pickle, and they're being built, or have been built by some very skilled people. You might check those out. I finished a build of the Rattlesnake about a year ago, and I used Bob Hunt's practicum for it. It goes through quite a bit of kit bashing, and it will raise your skill level, but there are also lots of errors in his practicum that he's never corrected, so be on your guard. My Rattlesnake was a Mamoli, but I found that I needed the plans from MS. You're right that the Rattlesnake has very nice lines, but the rigging is pretty challenging -- that alone took me over a year. I think you're getting some good advice here. It's a sound procedure to see how much you really enjoy a long term project. And if you take on something like the AVS, or Badger, you'll also be able to figure out how much you can stand wearing an opti-visor for long hours. Cheers, and good luck -- I'll be eager to see what you choose. Martin
  6. Hi Nils -- Sorry I haven't responded to your question. I used a Dremel set at the lowest speed, and with a flex-shaft attachment (the handle part is fairly comfortable, light, and easy to maneuver). I got my micro-burrs from Livesay's, which has a very large selection. That's the set-up I used for the carvings on the stern & head of my Rattlesnake. As I've been working intermittently on the stern carving of the Fly, I've started off by doing a mockup in modelling clay, just so I could see how the figures should look, and so I could work out any problems before they led to errors on the wood. Non-power tools are still a must, however. Along with an opti-visor and good lighting. Cheers, Martin
  7. There is also the important point to consider that there are as many different skill levels as there are modellers. Many of us live in out of the way places without access to clubs. This site -- along the with NRG mentor program begun by Greg Herbert -- provides an enormous service. But when I'm sitting at my workbench, trying to figure out how the planking should run, or which rigging lines to belay where, having access to a well-written and well-illustrated text like The Fully Framed Model can really help. You're absolutely right, wq3296, Doing the task is always the best way to learn. But there have been plenty of times I thought I had done it, when in fact I did it all wrong -- bass ackwards I believe is the technical term. (Still, I have read some practicums that weren't terribly helpful. Caveat lector!) Cheers, Martin
  8. Thanks Mark. I thought the problem might have come from that issue, but wasn't sure. Another Rattlesnake builder has told me that he saved many of my photos, so it might just work out. Cheers (from an old, displaced Oregonian), Martin
  9. Here's a problem that I hope someone can solve for me. On several occasions -- both in my own build log and in postings I've made in other people's logs -- photos have disappeared. Previously, I just uploaded them again, but my hard drive recently crashed and I've lost all my old pictures. But for future reference, I'd like to know if I'm doing something wrong when I upload them, or is this just a glitch in the site? Cheers, Martin
  10. Thanks for that, it explains the works clearly. Cheers, Martin
  11. Thanks Jay, the photo tells me quite a lot. I have the nuts -- 4 of them, which seems like double what I need, since the clamps each have only one hole. What I'm missing are the bolts that would pass through the clamps to the nuts in the t-slots. Your clamps are bigger than mine. And I don't know what I would use the allen wrench for on mine either. One other question: how do you move the jaws of the vise? There's a heavy pin holding it in one of the holes. So how do you move it to another hole? Stupid question, to be sure, but I am an utter novice with this. Cheers, Martin
  12. Thanks a lot you guys. Revenge, I might just have what you show. Here's a photo of my mill and the vise & clamps. First my mill: And here are the clamps: These don't have the double prongs like the ones you recommend, but they seem to follow the same principle. Jay, that User's Guide is exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks loads. But the down side to your generous help is that I wish I'd heard of The Little Machine Shop last summer, since the price on their Mini Mill isn't much more than I paid for my Micro. Ouch! It's good to know there's another place for accessories, though. Cheers, Martin
  13. Hi Jay -- This thread has been very interesting for me. I bought the Micro Mill from Micro Mark last summer and am just now trying to figure out how to run the dang thing. I went to the MM site, and this mill is no longer listed, so I guess it's been discontinued as being too small. It was what I could afford, though, and since I don't plan on milling metal, it made sense. The main difficulty for me is that there is no such thing as a "User's Manual" that might show how to attach the vise to the table. My vise looks just about like yours, though I can't find the pieces in what I got that would seem to hold it down. I'm sure I'll be coming back to this thread, to compare your photos with what I see on my machine. Cheers, Martin
  14. Thanks Gary -- I have both of Chapelle's books, and have found them useful in lots of ways. In fact, it was from reading one of them (I can't recall which one now) that I decided to go for the Rattlesnake (my second model). I have also foregone the gangways, since the midships is full enough without them; and those guns were enough of a chore that I wanted to be able to see them. Hahn doesn't show the gangways. Here's a photo by Hahn of his Rattlesnake, which has 2 notable details: First, you can see that the sailor is standing where the gangways would be, and that he's tall enough to make the gangways unnecessary. Second, back on the quarterdeck, you can see . . . Belaying Pins !!! The confusion continues. Cheers, Martin
  15. Hi Gary -- It's funny you should raise that question, since I am just about to turn from the standing to the running rigging, and found myself faced with that very same "uhh, let's see" problem. The MS plans show belaying pins along the front rail and in the foredeck rail. There are cleats and kevels in numerous places, along with ringbolts and eyebolts, but it doesn't seem that this ship had that many pins. It could be -- just speculation here -- because of the removable gangway that ran along the midships. Cheers, Martin