Martin W

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  1. Yes, we are hoping. Whenever a site changes itself like this, users can make serious mistakes, since buttons and actions don't work the same as in the earlier format. So let's all hope that such mistakes had been expected and a safety net was in place. Martin
  2. I want to add my vote for BE's log standing among the premier logs of MSW. Oh, do, do find it, and broadcast the good news loudly.
  3. Believe me, we've all asked stupider questions. The point here is that you find out what you need to know, and there's always someone who has the answer.
  4. Welcome to MSW. Indeed there are quite a few Swan builders, and we all enjoy having more around. So, as EJ says, start up a build log, and show us what step you're on. I'm looking forward to seeing your work! Cheers, Martin
  5. Hi Chuck -- I have to echo Alde's sentiment and say that it really is wonderful that you're advancing everyone's modelling abilities with all your innovative products. The best part is that you offer pieces that aren't ready made, and that require us to hone our skills and understanding of what goes into details like a wheel or lantern. Fantastic! Martin
  6. There are some good build logs here for the Badger & the Pickle, and they're being built, or have been built by some very skilled people. You might check those out. I finished a build of the Rattlesnake about a year ago, and I used Bob Hunt's practicum for it. It goes through quite a bit of kit bashing, and it will raise your skill level, but there are also lots of errors in his practicum that he's never corrected, so be on your guard. My Rattlesnake was a Mamoli, but I found that I needed the plans from MS. You're right that the Rattlesnake has very nice lines, but the rigging is pretty challenging -- that alone took me over a year. I think you're getting some good advice here. It's a sound procedure to see how much you really enjoy a long term project. And if you take on something like the AVS, or Badger, you'll also be able to figure out how much you can stand wearing an opti-visor for long hours. Cheers, and good luck -- I'll be eager to see what you choose. Martin
  7. Hi John -- Thanks for getting the lathe combo to me ! It's everything I had hoped for, and your personal service is beyond comparison. Cheers, Martin
  8. Hi John -- First off let me say that you're providing a great service for everyone in the modelling community. The one Proxxon tool I have is of a very high quality. When I was shopping for a micro mill, I ended up going with another brand, and wish I hadn't, since I've already had to buy Proxxon attachments for it. The website still lists the lathe combo deal -- is that price in effect now? I have to admit I am tempted by the band saw, but since I convinced the Missus two years ago that it was a scroll saw that would make my life complete, I think I'd have a hard time winning out for the band saw now. The lathe on the other hand . . . . Cheers, Martin
  9. Hi Nils -- Sorry I haven't responded to your question. I used a Dremel set at the lowest speed, and with a flex-shaft attachment (the handle part is fairly comfortable, light, and easy to maneuver). I got my micro-burrs from Livesay's, which has a very large selection. That's the set-up I used for the carvings on the stern & head of my Rattlesnake. As I've been working intermittently on the stern carving of the Fly, I've started off by doing a mockup in modelling clay, just so I could see how the figures should look, and so I could work out any problems before they led to errors on the wood. Non-power tools are still a must, however. Along with an opti-visor and good lighting. Cheers, Martin
  10. There is also the important point to consider that there are as many different skill levels as there are modellers. Many of us live in out of the way places without access to clubs. This site -- along the with NRG mentor program begun by Greg Herbert -- provides an enormous service. But when I'm sitting at my workbench, trying to figure out how the planking should run, or which rigging lines to belay where, having access to a well-written and well-illustrated text like The Fully Framed Model can really help. You're absolutely right, wq3296, Doing the task is always the best way to learn. But there have been plenty of times I thought I had done it, when in fact I did it all wrong -- bass ackwards I believe is the technical term. (Still, I have read some practicums that weren't terribly helpful. Caveat lector!) Cheers, Martin
  11. Jeff -- I just heard of your transition, and wanted to add my voice to all those expressing thanks for your quality service. Your wood has been one of the elements that have made this hobby into a community of like-minded folks. All of us who have chatted with you through email have enjoyed your personal touch. And anyone who has used your wood knows what a high standard you set, and how you've enabled us to aspire to building better models than we thought possible. Cheers and best of luck, Martin
  12. Many thanks, Andrew, that seems to be exactly what I'm looking for. Best, Martin
  13. Have any of you Agamemenon builders ordered its plans from NMM? If so, could you let me know the catalogue numbers? I understand that the customary procedure is to email the NMM directly with a descriptive request in order to identify the catalogue numbers, but I had just hoped to streamline the process a little. I'm mostly interested in the lines & profile plans, but others would be welcome as well. Cheers, Martin
  14. Thanks Mark. I thought the problem might have come from that issue, but wasn't sure. Another Rattlesnake builder has told me that he saved many of my photos, so it might just work out. Cheers (from an old, displaced Oregonian), Martin