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flyer

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lenzburg, Switzerland
  • Interests
    Flying, travelling, reading, free tobacco abuse...

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  1. Hi Michael The cannon looks very good. I think you'r right about the position of the dolphins: They would help handling the barrel and therefore would best be placed above the centre of gravity. If the barrel stays more or less horizontal if you hang it by the dolphins it should be ok - otherwise you could try to move them. But in my opinion another point is more important. As far as I understand the trunnions are part of and cast with the barrel and should give the impression of being of the same metal as the barrel. Wood wouldn't be able to hold the heavy carriage to the fast recoiling barrel when firing the cannon. You are on a fascinating journey with this build - thank you for taking us along. Peter
  2. Hi Rob Your Ethalion looks wonderful and I admire the way you build an unique model with this kit. Having had the pleasure to build those ***** shot lockers for my Bellerophon I would like to share a few thoughts and hope you don't mind. In my kit the supplied cannonballs were much too big and I had to replace them. In the case of your Ethalion the 18 pounder shots should have a diameter of about 5 inch or 2mm in scale - they look larger. Then I think you should try to settle those balls a bit deeper into the locker - now they are in danger of getting loose in just a bit of a sea and shots rolling across a deck could be mistaken as a first sign of an impending mutiny, as Jack Aubrey tells us. My solution was to take 1mm wood strips, drill 1mm holes into it and then drill with a 2mm drill bit nearly through it. Taking the shots out now might be a bit of a fumbling but they will not accidentally drop out. Cheers and keep up the great work Peter
  3. Hi Bob You are making great progress with your Granado. It seems you finally got over your Vanguard withdrawal syndrome. Only scratching just the outline of those lids ,I think, is out of the question in a quality build as yours. However the lid should sit flush in the counter and you will have to cut out the opening in the finished counter. I had the same problem but perhaps half an hour work with a sharp scalpel provided the desired result - although I had to rebuild at least one lid because it was suddenly too small... Cheers Peter
  4. First (port) half of the coppering is done. Me, I'm looking forward to a nice diversified work, like knotting ratlines. The copper will be polished after both sides are done. The amount of copper plates was just sufficient. By careful use of trimmed leftovers I managed to keep enough full plates to cover rudder and keel. the scale figure of the captain shows just how much expensive copper was put on such a ship of the line
  5. Hi B.E. Looking great. And that moulded strip is made ingeniously and looks good too. If there is nothing worse you have to 'live with' you are really living very well. Cheers Peter
  6. Hi Martin You obviously don't believe in taking the easy way. Your Fly will be a unique gem. Would there be a story behind that pile of hypothermic needles which you could tell over that beer? Take care Peter
  7. Hi Dave Thanks. The linked article is a great one about a fact every modeller should be familiar with. Adding 15% white seems be a bit much in scale 1/76 - but for the yellow colour on my Pickle build this could be about what I actualy took while the black there was right out of the can. Generally I would and will add less white to black - a few drops up to perhaps 5% will make a big change already. Cheers Peter
  8. hull details, coppering After installing some hull decoration strips I marked the waterline and put a1x1mm strip on it. It was then painted dull black. To give it a more realistic finish I mixed in some white. (In a book, written by a professional model railroad landscape builder he explains about colour scale. By that he means that if you look at a model in scale 1/100 from a distance of 50cm it should look the same as the prototype from a distance of 50m. And from that distance colours look less bright because of the air absorbing some of the intensity. He says that's the reason that models tend to look like toys if you use original colours. He recommends to always mix in a bit of white or grey and to avoid shiny colours. I think it works.) Below the waterline strip I painted a copper strip to cover eventual irregularities at the edge of the coppering. As on previous builds I broke of single copper plates and glued them on individually and overlapping, starting at the stern and the keel. After putting on the first leaf of copper plates, I had the happy idea to check how many there are. 2400. 2400! I just hope the skin on my fingertips will endure that as I have to peel off dried CA glue (and some skin) after each coppering session. To have some variety I do small projects in between, such as adding outer hull details or more shot garlands - seems I can't stop making them, now I know how. waterline marked and coppering started waterline coppering details additional shot garlands
  9. Hi Martin No deck above - no chimney needed.? And maybe not my carpenters are at fault but they probably get sometime some strange instructions which they follow without questions. That's the navy, I think. Cheers Peter
  10. Not only have you finished a outstanding and truly beautiful masterpiece, also your build log is a treasure of 'how to do's' and full of tips and tricks. Thank you very much for sharing. Peter
  11. Hi B.E. The planking looks good, especially in pictures 1295 - 1298, which show the most important viewpoints. However, if I'm interpreting your assistants facial expression correctly he's only appraisal criterion is: edible? yes/no Good luck in convincing him to do the treenailing.😉 Cheers Peter
  12. Very nice outcome of all your labouring. Just had to save the same problem on my Bellerophone. The kits manual did ask for what you call a through but I managed a similar solution to yours. Soaking with glue didn't help much and putting the strip into the vice made it worse as additional tension was built up in the wood. Finally I laid the strip onto a flat wooden surface with some over length on both sides of the holes, drilled in 3 steps (0,5 - 1 - 2 mm) and cut it to length. Using sharp drills and selecting finely grained walnut helps. The jig is ingenious and I should try it for the next shot garlands I have to make. BTW what model are you building? Cheers Peter
  13. The equipment on the centre line of the upper deck is finished. The capstans are mounted on a 1mm pedestal framed with 2mm walnut. Finally I also managed to make shot garlands the way I wanted and filled them with 2mm balls. The part in front of the forward hatchway is left off to prevent the sailors stumbling over the shots. The stanchions are leftovers from Pegasus and stand smaller than those from the kit but would fit below the capstan bars. The oven will be placed directly on deck as any base below would be invisible after closing the deck. The masts, stanchions and the oven are only provisionally put there and will be removed for the next step - detailing, painting and coppering the outer hull. with only 2 guns in place the deck looks spacious the captain wonders a bit about the carpenters many tries for the shot garlands main hatchway forward hatchway and capstan polishing the oven ...and what will later be visible of it - but only after removing a gun
  14. Presently I'm working on the 'furniture' of the upper deck. The oven is finished and set aside. It is a very nice detail - a pity it won't be visible on the finished model. The hatches and ladder ways are nearly done. However first I had to plank parts of the gun deck through the hatches. This would better have been done before installing the upper deck but it worked somehow. An unsolved problem are the shot garlands. Those furrows shown on the plans don't seem practical as the balls will roll and perhaps jump it when they're not full e.g. during an action in a lively sea. I try to fabricate boards with holes for the individual shots as seen on other models. This isn't easy. After splitting the first three attempts lengthwise I noticed that those cannon balls seem rather big. I found them to be 2,5 mm which is too big. For an scale 1/72 18pounder they should be less than 2mm. Fortunately I found some old 2 mm balls - a 30 years old leftover from the Vasa - which will be a better fit. So the next few tries will be with smaller holes. I wonder also about the wooden rail around the forward hatchway, shown on the plan. It stands in the way of the forward capstan and differs from all the other rails. If I have enough parts it will replace it by stanchions and rope, similar to the others. planking the gun deck - the hard way the captain examines one of the attempted shot garlands and is not happy (stanchions and rope are provisionally fixed and will be removed for gun rigging)
  15. Hi B.E. Your Cheerful comes along very nicely. There is much to say for building smaller ships as you can concentrate on every aspect and detail while when building a 74 you have to take some shortcuts or take an eternity to finish. However, I'm a bit confused about the run of the planks. As I understand you are following Chuck's planking pattern which is based on an original plan. From some angles the run of your planks looks fine (pictures 332,336) while others give the impression of a distorted run (306,331). Most planking tutorials emphasize that you should avoid bending planks sideways - something you definitely have to do. I got the impression that the small tape you used as battens did allow more lateral bending than a wood strip and therefore created a pattern with laterally bent planks. On the other hand the frontal view onto Cheerful's bow looks fine while on my models, where I usually start tapering with or just below the wales, I can keep a natural run on the planks but get a rather crowded bow planking and need quite a few drop planks. I don't mean to criticize your work, I just wonder if you are happy with the way the planks are running - especially the one above the garboard? Do you think this is how it was done on the prototype and wood will eventually give up its tendency to warp? Cheers Peter

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