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flyer

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lenzburg, Switzerland
  • Interests
    Flying, travelling, reading, free tobacco abuse...

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  1. Hi Dave Thanks. The linked article is a great one about a fact every modeller should be familiar with. Adding 15% white seems be a bit much in scale 1/76 - but for the yellow colour on my Pickle build this could be about what I actualy took while the black there was right out of the can. Generally I would and will add less white to black - a few drops up to perhaps 5% will make a big change already. Cheers Peter
  2. hull details, coppering After installing some hull decoration strips I marked the waterline and put a1x1mm strip on it. It was then painted dull black. To give it a more realistic finish I mixed in some white. (In a book, written by a professional model railroad landscape builder he explains about colour scale. By that he means that if you look at a model in scale 1/100 from a distance of 50cm it should look the same as the prototype from a distance of 50m. And from that distance colours look less bright because of the air absorbing some of the intensity. He says that's the reason that models tend to look like toys if you use original colours. He recommends to always mix in a bit of white or grey and to avoid shiny colours. I think it works.) Below the waterline strip I painted a copper strip to cover eventual irregularities at the edge of the coppering. As on previous builds I broke of single copper plates and glued them on individually and overlapping, starting at the stern and the keel. After putting on the first leaf of copper plates, I had the happy idea to check how many there are. 2400. 2400! I just hope the skin on my fingertips will endure that as I have to peel off dried CA glue (and some skin) after each coppering session. To have some variety I do small projects in between, such as adding outer hull details or more shot garlands - seems I can't stop making them, now I know how. waterline marked and coppering started waterline coppering details additional shot garlands
  3. Hi Martin No deck above - no chimney needed.? And maybe not my carpenters are at fault but they probably get sometime some strange instructions which they follow without questions. That's the navy, I think. Cheers Peter
  4. Not only have you finished a outstanding and truly beautiful masterpiece, also your build log is a treasure of 'how to do's' and full of tips and tricks. Thank you very much for sharing. Peter
  5. Hi B.E. The planking looks good, especially in pictures 1295 - 1298, which show the most important viewpoints. However, if I'm interpreting your assistants facial expression correctly he's only appraisal criterion is: edible? yes/no Good luck in convincing him to do the treenailing.😉 Cheers Peter
  6. Very nice outcome of all your labouring. Just had to save the same problem on my Bellerophone. The kits manual did ask for what you call a through but I managed a similar solution to yours. Soaking with glue didn't help much and putting the strip into the vice made it worse as additional tension was built up in the wood. Finally I laid the strip onto a flat wooden surface with some over length on both sides of the holes, drilled in 3 steps (0,5 - 1 - 2 mm) and cut it to length. Using sharp drills and selecting finely grained walnut helps. The jig is ingenious and I should try it for the next shot garlands I have to make. BTW what model are you building? Cheers Peter
  7. The equipment on the centre line of the upper deck is finished. The capstans are mounted on a 1mm pedestal framed with 2mm walnut. Finally I also managed to make shot garlands the way I wanted and filled them with 2mm balls. The part in front of the forward hatchway is left off to prevent the sailors stumbling over the shots. The stanchions are leftovers from Pegasus and stand smaller than those from the kit but would fit below the capstan bars. The oven will be placed directly on deck as any base below would be invisible after closing the deck. The masts, stanchions and the oven are only provisionally put there and will be removed for the next step - detailing, painting and coppering the outer hull. with only 2 guns in place the deck looks spacious the captain wonders a bit about the carpenters many tries for the shot garlands main hatchway forward hatchway and capstan polishing the oven ...and what will later be visible of it - but only after removing a gun
  8. Presently I'm working on the 'furniture' of the upper deck. The oven is finished and set aside. It is a very nice detail - a pity it won't be visible on the finished model. The hatches and ladder ways are nearly done. However first I had to plank parts of the gun deck through the hatches. This would better have been done before installing the upper deck but it worked somehow. An unsolved problem are the shot garlands. Those furrows shown on the plans don't seem practical as the balls will roll and perhaps jump it when they're not full e.g. during an action in a lively sea. I try to fabricate boards with holes for the individual shots as seen on other models. This isn't easy. After splitting the first three attempts lengthwise I noticed that those cannon balls seem rather big. I found them to be 2,5 mm which is too big. For an scale 1/72 18pounder they should be less than 2mm. Fortunately I found some old 2 mm balls - a 30 years old leftover from the Vasa - which will be a better fit. So the next few tries will be with smaller holes. I wonder also about the wooden rail around the forward hatchway, shown on the plan. It stands in the way of the forward capstan and differs from all the other rails. If I have enough parts it will replace it by stanchions and rope, similar to the others. planking the gun deck - the hard way the captain examines one of the attempted shot garlands and is not happy (stanchions and rope are provisionally fixed and will be removed for gun rigging)
  9. Hi B.E. Your Cheerful comes along very nicely. There is much to say for building smaller ships as you can concentrate on every aspect and detail while when building a 74 you have to take some shortcuts or take an eternity to finish. However, I'm a bit confused about the run of the planks. As I understand you are following Chuck's planking pattern which is based on an original plan. From some angles the run of your planks looks fine (pictures 332,336) while others give the impression of a distorted run (306,331). Most planking tutorials emphasize that you should avoid bending planks sideways - something you definitely have to do. I got the impression that the small tape you used as battens did allow more lateral bending than a wood strip and therefore created a pattern with laterally bent planks. On the other hand the frontal view onto Cheerful's bow looks fine while on my models, where I usually start tapering with or just below the wales, I can keep a natural run on the planks but get a rather crowded bow planking and need quite a few drop planks. I don't mean to criticize your work, I just wonder if you are happy with the way the planks are running - especially the one above the garboard? Do you think this is how it was done on the prototype and wood will eventually give up its tendency to warp? Cheers Peter
  10. Hi Jacek It is a lovely lady but she moves some quite some water - even in scale 1/72. I still have no idea where to place the finished model but as we have room in the house after some of the children left home the admiralty tolerates it. To soften up your admiral (and even to improve your skills in the same time) you could first build a smaller vessel, such as Caldercraft's Pickle or the Lady Nelson from Victory Models. Those smaller builds look quite elegant especially if you manage to hoist sails. They don't take up much space and elegance should be appreciated by a Lady Admiral... Cheers Peter
  11. The gun carriages have now all been reworked. Those which will not be visible below the forecastle and quarter deck only got a reworking of their front part which will be visible through the gun ports. Also those barrels will not get the full details but will be used as cast. To paint them I finally found that a first coat with a simple big black marker works well as base for a thin second coat of Caldercraft's metal black paint. The markers paint seems to be aggressive enough to remove all traces of fat and is thin enough not to smear any details. Unfortunately it's to shiny to leave as finish. Just for fun I provisionally put the guns on one side in place to have a look at the lady's teeth. reworking of the 'hidden' gun carriages and barrels The lady's teeth are quite impressive
  12. Hi Martin Don't give up the ship... just because the captain is - entre nous - a cheating, lying, stupid bully. There are still a lot of decent crewmembers aboard. Would love to share that beer (or a bottle of merlot) anyway.🍻 Cheers Peter
  13. Hi Rob Your Granado is turning out very nice and you certainly made a brilliant recovery from your problems with the wood for the second planking. You even make me rethink my decision never to show treenails on my models. Although they usually show a bit more prominent than the scale would request they do add a feel of reality to a model. Cheers Peter
  14. Hi Martin Oh, it's a lady. Perhaps she looks a bit wrinkled but definitely handsome. We did a daytrip on a big catamaran to some outlying islands but as they had a tight schedule and unfavourable wind they motored all the way. One of my daughters will visit Vancouver island later that year which seems to be just north of your vacation place but in a different country - although she loves the US she will stay away as long as Nr. 45 occupies 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. Nevertheless both places seem to offer great nature and in the case of your place even a rainforest. You will however have to steer clear of the cougars and bears which - I believe - are a bit less friendly than the big tortoise. Take care Peter
  15. Hallo Nils Congratulations on another masterpiece! I'm glad those 'heathens' are just raiding your garden and I don't have to fear an encounter when travelling in the Mediterranean. Peter

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