moflea

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About moflea

  • Birthday 01/03/1974

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bucharest, Romania
  • Interests
    Model ship building, fishing

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  1. I'm not sure if it helps, but here is the video log of a guy building the Deagostini version (a monthly magazine i believe). He's at the stage 60 of the build (many numbers to come) and he already has the hull planked and some deck fittings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rS-k5JeIudM It may give you a hint about the building process, the materials provided, and so on. I dont know if this link is allowed, if it doesnt then some admin should delete it.
  2. My two cents would go to the break licquid as well (trusting that the paint is enamel)...
  3. Hi, Steve This is just my personal opinions on the matter. It all depends on what kind of tips do you want for your build. I think that navy plastic kits do their best with modern warships, not with the sailing ships. As you know, I'm building the Revel's USS Constitution as well (well, kind of, I'm on hold for now), and I've built their Gorch Fock and HMS Victory. What I recommend for builders of plastic tall ships: plank the deck with thin wood strips. The effect is great. Replace the masts with wood shaped accordingly (their plastic masts are warped anyway, and if not, it will be soon). Replace the funny plastic sails with real cloth sails. On the other hand, plastic kits of sailing ships have great detailed hulls... especially when the hull is painted (English ships 1700+, for example). If you have any questions on painting your Connie, or any other specific issue, please post it! I'm sure there are many on these site to answer you (I know there are several people building Revel's Connie).
  4. Hello, It's a very good idea to plank the plastic deck with wood. I'm building it myself and I took the same approach. As seen in pictures, I've used super glue. That was happening some two years ago and it's holding them really well. Be sure though you put the glue only at the bottom side, and just a hair of it, otherwise it will squeeze between the planks fi you push them, as I've used 2.5mm wide strips.
  5. Hello, PVA (if not water resistant) can be soaked in water and it will break, but can also damage the plywood. I had some very good results just keeping it under my wife's hair dryer. After all, PVA is just plastic, it will melt in the heat. (that worked for my wrong glued bulkheads). Augie's advice might work even better, as a "last solution"
  6. Although Modeler12 has the right answer, I will put my 2 cents on my no name rotary tool. Invaluable.
  7. Thank you, I was editing my post as you replied, I know of Harlequin's build Your build is also great, I'm enjoying it!
  8. Hello, Did anyone here finished it or can share some information of the quality of the kit? I know Harlequin's log and I love his build, I'm following it closely, even if he didn't posted for a while Bellona is one of my favorite ships and I really like the idea of Corel to present the ship in natural wood colors. Internet isn't friendly too about similar builds, except one Russian forum where a guy really mastered it, picture below. I have built before some simpler wooden ships and I want to take a step forward, oscillating between Caldercraft's Endeavour , Granado, or Corel's Bellona. PS: this is a really great site. I'm reading it since the version 0 Friendly people, great tutorials, and a LOT of useful information coming from your build logs, guys. PPS: excuse my lousy English, not my mother's language.