James H

Hi all, Whilst I've never really been a Sci-Fi fan, some stuff does grab me.....such as Blake's 7, Space 1999, Terminator, Star Wars etc., so pretty much a lot of the classic Sci-Fi. Agora's new T-800 hits the sweet spot for me, and in a massive half-scale too! This has been previously released by Hachette in other sales territories, and this release incorporates the fix to the original floppy fingers problem that plagued the original release. The first pack is a sizeable box too, so time to dive in and start some building! This will be entirely out-of-box, with no mods etc, although there are some out there if you do a little searching. PACK 1 Stage 1: Components for head and eyes Just to tempt us straight away, it's common for these models to supply something very recognisable. In this case, it's the upper face in all it's metal, metallic glory. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2812.thumb.jpg.e2d7bca1973a8feee10a549b70a12ee5.jpg The first step is to push the eye pupils/lenses into the chromed eye orbits. These are a nice, snug fit. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2813.thumb.jpg.5003b654715eff9ee9c167cbb5616258.jpg Next, taking extreme care with the wires, the LEDs are now pushed fully into the orbits. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2814.thumb.jpg.fc454900795f78d87b6cd13223bcb49a.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2816.thumb.jpg.5b6047bd7331343a53be1e98f2e4e08e.jpg These completed eyes can now be installed to the inner face plate. Orientation of these is very important as they will later be connected to a motor so the eyes will move from side to side. The outer pegs on these must go upwards when fitted. Once in position, the eyes are then held captive by a brace which is screwed into position. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2818.thumb.jpg.170750635ee9a09e8c5b96d029162f54.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2819.thumb.jpg.b84b03b8d1d9d0b17a6b6b6f9219cb9d.jpg Creepy! //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2822.thumb.jpg.f6743d7b77be88d2626e37b6d32283fd.jpg Stage 2: Components for the head and right arm Hot on the heels of the upper face, I now build the upper jaw. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2824.thumb.jpg.286c389d84ebae1b4273b4db693b4be2.jpg The face panel I just built is secured to the upper jaw as shown here. The two parts only fit together in one way. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2825.thumb.jpg.bd9a37075b2e0ed8e6aedcbca7debd78.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2827.thumb.jpg.ced7ee1a3854b8b85dbbe9a0fbf6623c.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2828.thumb.jpg.a61c8c631c8a7eb8f27242e0db4bfeac.jpg Injection moulded plastic parts are supplied for the upper teeth, and these are installed as 5 separate parts, secured in place by a spot of CA gel as this gives more time to work with the parts and get them in absolutely the right position. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2830.thumb.jpg.8f24e8de5f5d3b4e449fe825a11171d8.jpg Some heavy metal work now as the upper arm begins construction. These parts form the swivel attachment at the shoulder, and align when these indents are together. Two screws hold everything securely. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2831.thumb.jpg.54be3efb956a2fda728a2c60b2d23123.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2832.thumb.jpg.898983af55c4e617741aa975494795c7.jpg Stage 3: Components for the right arm and right arm The arm components in here form a piston which operates as the tricep. This is the main body of the piston, but as yet without the plunger. A screw holds all three components securely. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2833.thumb.jpg.4e9ee7c955aa738be26de7aa17d56cc5.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2834.thumb.jpg.f62cc6b473d68a5741c05d6ccc93cc9f.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2835.thumb.jpg.270698a921c37b837294c119cf3d390f.jpg You now need to fit 3x AAA batteries to the box. Once you've done that, plug it into the small LED testing board, and then plug each eye into that board, in turn. Each should light very brightly. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2836.thumb.jpg.2c3f3576f2c918aca14137ebabe93b67.jpg Spreading the workload around a little, the first finger is now built, using the updated parts which stop the fingers from being floppy. In a change to the instructions, I find it easier to insert the sleeve between the joints, and then the pin. This was, the sleeve doesn't bunch up underneath the joint, and good the full depth. The small cap is then plugged into the pin, to finish it off. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2838.thumb.jpg.74dc53e732483136504c87063501f473.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2839.thumb.jpg.f330c578a347a59d51d76645de92667e.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2840.thumb.jpg.2bc6cfa96cf7a63028fb5310e447f499.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2841.thumb.jpg.29ce907861d10733cc38b294b30e4664.jpg Stage 4: New components for the upper right arm We get a good stab at the upper arm with this stage, and start to see some things come together. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2843.thumb.jpg.1076c8af22bc27cbde2e682cb3e8466d.jpg First, the bicep piston is built, and the plunger, complete with rubber seal, is inserted. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2845.thumb.jpg.8427d765924a004239f23051b32d53a3.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2846.thumb.jpg.f549b092feecddebefb2edaf4dfb9a05.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2847.thumb.jpg.3816924929b9bbb259f90f54c942f908.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2848.thumb.jpg.088f5a2c3dc7f86fcbadb34559643588.jpg The plunger is also built and inserted for the tricep piston we built earlier. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2849.thumb.jpg.99acb21946d2725fd83641e21cb77a43.jpg The articulated should joint is now built. First, the previous part is now fitted with plastic grips. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2851.thumb.jpg.50721371d12f6ee105d00bb1d26b7583.jpg Both tricep and bicep pistons are now fitted to the main bone of the arm, and the shoulder socket pushed into place. When everything is in situ, the large metal arm part from Stage 2, is then used to lock everything together via the piston screws. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2852.thumb.jpg.8e474a55c5b8ee9e0af8095994110270.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2854.thumb.jpg.fb6c20026f2d96a5de13d04e8bc5f94f.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2857.thumb.jpg.5f50f34784aa0e6901ae64136aa49275.jpg Stage 5: Components for the lower jaw and neck Back to the head now, with this lower head plate and neck socket. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2858.thumb.jpg.529eb8b4733598f46ada7b59d862d65e.jpg The neck socket is first screwed together and sat into the hole in the lower head, once the black plastic ring is first seated. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2859.thumb.jpg.3b79b328d9dad9b726cc8ef9785cd1dd.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2860.thumb.jpg.7c887c916a7dcacad6751695b6d7697a.jpg A small cap now protects the top of the socket and a bracket screws into position to lock everything. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2861.thumb.jpg.86042e86d3813535fca1a691c6aa41de.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2862.thumb.jpg.f1bc1165bfb5ad7126b50187f5049c38.jpg Stage 6: Teeth of lower jaw, and the bridge of nose As with the upper jaw, the lower jaw now receives some detail treatment. All parts plug snugly into the jaw and are fixes with a spot of CA gel. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2864.thumb.jpg.348b6bc1ecb4857cef8acb220b1deabc.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2890.thumb.jpg.2776e4a2812b3de1da294a5cba36e32b.jpg The nose bridge is also fitted after a little CA gel is put into the two locating holes in the face. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2866.thumb.jpg.0f33372029b1c8e221d185e58104c112.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2868.thumb.jpg.1214b005fbbe605976986547e3b8de30.jpg Stage 7: Components for upper arm and head motor //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2869.thumb.jpg.df07f3acf1fca180b494d7be2c395226.jpg A little more attention is now paid to the should area of the T-800, with this ratchet joint. The ratchet place is first glued into the shoulder part, and the unit GLUED into the previous assembly, using more CA gel. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2871.thumb.jpg.f27b53b5fcb16f0ebc9532ab32c31e45.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2872.thumb.jpg.4e5fde7379377d7e344890b07c3b7d94.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2873.thumb.jpg.ca2832b5937e0fa726519b122f5ba3c3.jpg More upper arm parts screwed together . Once done, this is put to one side until we get another pack. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2874.thumb.jpg.eb7240555f7b2f8a0ca3466dd80d0c88.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2875.thumb.jpg.5083e0bda725a49d0873c50816fdab3c.jpg One last thing we need to do on this stage is to put the two plastic parts together that relate to the head motor. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2876.thumb.jpg.af67633a9578adef92a6539a39754b4c.jpg Stage 8: Components for right thumb and right palm Time to get handy again as we look at the right palm and some finger parts. The next finger fits together exactly as the previous, plus both are now finally fitted to the palm. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2877.thumb.jpg.3dae45cbd2f1d31b9b32b0221ac82969.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2878.thumb.jpg.bb60c545cb82d8b8aa552b2be8960500.jpg Stage 9: Components for right-hand side of head This pack contains just two parts and a pack os screws. The right hand side of the head has its mechanical plate fitted and secured with two screws. That's it for this! //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2879.thumb.jpg.a589cdd7c8e4312fe376bc194c4fffea.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2880.thumb.jpg.e10059f987b3735bd9b9e5f75579f8ef.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2881.thumb.jpg.1b46652e88816c7465eb98f93fbc07d8.jpg Stage 10: Inner eye sockets and right middle finger Back to the head again. The eye sockets are now fitted within the upper metal face panel. I didn't find these needed any glue, and the instructions only say use it if needed anyway. //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2882.thumb.jpg.3700c6005ff1d64583a0dd77a7939371.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2883.thumb.jpg.1c235907d7bdcb610029a92f34d68fd2.jpg //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2884.thumb.jpg.6d629000ca5c7271815fbfe1743ba91a.jpg Oh, and another finger is built and fitted! //content.invisioncic.com/c292494/monthly_2020_05/DSC_2885.thumb.jpg.1bb52b0e52ffeecd770ef5520405605f.jpg That's it until I receive Pack 2 🤪

No painting at all, if you don't want to. I suppose you could always add more wiring under the hood etc. and small details like that, but it builds up completely out of box without 'needing' a lick of paint or anything else.

If anyone is interested, I'll also post the build log for the GT500 and my T-800 Terminator endoskeleton.

On the Gt500, the batteries are in the car battery and the speaker is in the right side front wheel arch. You really can't see any of this stuff when complete. Oh, the dash lights function too.

The electronics aren't networked. There are a lot of working bits for electronics though such as pedals that produce engine sounds, working horn, headlights and taillights etc. Lots of other stuff works too such as the steering, folding back seat, opening doors, hood, trunk. She's heavy when complete, weighing in at over 18 pounds! A lot of the GT500 will be metal when complete, including the shell.

Pretty much. This is the GT500 I'm building. Two more packs and it'll be complete.

Pack 3 This pack now means that we're already a quarter way through this beautiful car model. Even though I absolutely love the Super Snake, I feel this one is even nicer, with its all metal chassis and ingenious assembly. You really do get the feeling that you're actually creating some engineering. Everything fits just perfectly in every way, and she's already gaining some early weight 😆 Ok, let's crack on! STAGE 16: LEFT LATERAL CHASSIS MAIN FRAME BOTTOM SECTION Cross-members 3 & 4 bottom section The left lateral chassis bottom frame is the main player here, and all we need to do is to fasten the two bottom halves of the cross members 3 and 4 to the frame. These are clearly numbered and there's nothing to go wrong here. STAGE 17: RIGHT LATERAL CHASSIS MAIN FRAME BOTTOM SECTION Cross-members 1 & 2 bottom section Now it's the turn of the right lateral chassis bottom frame. The cross members first screw to the left hand frame that I just built, taking care to get the offset holes in No.2 bottom cross member, facing the front of the chassis. With these in place, the new right hand frame section can be screwed to the left hand side, creating a symmetrical unit. STAGE 18: FRONT SUSPENSION SUPPORT: Cross-member No. 4 Top, Left Horn, Right Horn The first part to fit to the lower/bottom frame is the upper part of cross member No.4. The left and right horns now push onto the front suspension support. No glue needed here. This is now put aside until the next stage. STAGE 19: LEFT LATERAL CHASSIS MAIN FRAME TOP SECTION Yet more frame work! The front suspension support from the last stage is now screwed to the lateral left top chassis in this new packet. For this stage, that's it. STAGE 20: RIGHT LATERAL CHASSIS MAIN FRAME TOP SECTION Cross-members 2 & 3 bottom top section Now the right top lateral chassis can be screwed to the previous assembly as shown. You can see just how well everything fits together as the top frame is fastened to the lower frame. Six screws hold these firmly in place. Lastly, the two remaining upper cross member parts (No.1 and 2) are screwed into position. Again, numbers are cast into the parts so you really can't get this wrong. STAGE 21: REAR CHASSIS PART & WISHBONE MOUNTING The rear chassis is first screwed into position... ...followed by the rear suspension wishbone mounting frame. Definitely some weight here now! Remember, this is all metal. STAGE 22: RIGHT FRONT INNER & OUTER WHEEL RIM The front inner and outer rims are screwed together. A very simple stage. STAGE 23: TIRE & OUTER RIM The reverse of this wheel is now screwed into position and the tyre added. To get the tyre on, it really does need to be soaked in freshly boiled water for about 5 minutes to make it pliable. Without that, you will most certainly struggle. ...more next time!

Pack 2 It doesn't seem two minutes since Pack 1, and this beauty rocked up, so it'd be rude not to crack on and build it. Seems strange to be building the engine on this one so early when it was much later with the Shelby Super Snake. Certainly not complaining as I like the detail stuff. STAGE 07: ASSEMBLING THE ALTERNATOR First, the alternator is assembled and then connected to the mounting arm and mounting plate. These last parts are then swung around, pushed together and then mounted to the oil filter assembly that was built in the last pack. STAGE 08: WATER PUMP PULLEY, CRANK SHAFT PULLEY AND TIMING BELT COVER Work carries on with this part of the engine as the crank shaft and water pump pulleys are screwed together. The timing belt cover is then attached and timing belt added. STAGE 09: LEFT CYLINDER HEAD COVER AND EXHAUST MANIFOLD PIPES This pack only takes a minute or two to complete. All the manifold parts are numbered, as are the ports on the cylinder head cover. They can only fit one way too as they are keyed. STAGE 10: RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD COVER AND EXHAUST MANIFOLD PIPES ...just the same for this pack, and then both cylinder head blocks can be tarted up with stage 11. STAGE 11: ROCKER COVERS, CAPS AND SPARK WIRE HOLDERS Both rocker cover caps are fitted to the rocker covers and these are in turn screwed to the cylinder head blocks. The spark plug wire holders are a little tricky. They kept dropping off my engine, but were later fixed using a knife and a spot of CA. STAGE 12: DISTRIBUTOR, FUEL FILTER, IGNITION COIL AND CYLINDER HEAD CAP The ignition distributor and fuel filter are fastened to the upper engine block with a single screw each. The Cylinder Head Central Cover cap and ignition coil are then friction-fitted to the cylinder blocks. STAGE 13: ENGINE BLOCKS AND COOLING FLUID TANK BRACKET Not a fan of heavy metal, but it's definitely appreciated in a build like this. With these parts, I can start to see how things will finally come together. The right ending block is screwed to the right cylinder head assembly. The same applies to the left hand engine block and cylinder head assembly. STAGE 14: FLYWHEEL COVER, GEARBOX, INSPECTION COVER, GEARBOX RODS Screws are fitted to the reverse of the gearbox inspection hatch. The right flywheel cover is then fitted to the right hand engine block... ...followed by the left hand flywheel cover and right hand side of the gear box. After sliding the inspection hatch into position, the other half of the gearbox is screwed into position. All three gearbox rods are now installed. STAGE 15: OIL PAN, PROTECTIVE PLATE, SPARK PLUGS, SPARK PLUG WIRE AND WIRE CONNECTORS The oil pan is screwed to the protective plate. This model utilises a lot of hidden connections like this where screws are fastened on the inside and the flanged head is trapped between other assemblies. A neat trick to minimise external screw holes. The timing belt assembly is now slotted into position the right hand engine block... ...and the protective plate fitted. The top of the engine is now fitted into position. Both sides of the engine block area finally brought together, trapping the other sub assemblies, and creating a large and heavy engine. Care is needed to attach the spark plugs. A little push and they click into place. There is some wobble in them, but nothing I'm particularly bothered about. And then the ignition lines are fitted. using a colour coded guide (for cutting the vinyl hose) and also for orientation of the leads to the ignition distributor.

Morning all! Adding to a Shelby I'm currently building, is the beautiful Cobra from Agora Models. I was thrilled with the original Shelby GT500, but I already think this takes it to the next level. I'm also a sucker for the more classic looking car. Agora's new kit comes in their new style box which is designed to withstand the rigours of our postal system, so it arrived with me in great condition. Included with the kit is a large poster, cleaning cloth, and a screwdriver in the first pack of parts. This one is also magnetic, unlike the one in the GT500. Pack 1 Stage 1:Hood/Bonnet assembly As a nice teaser, that very identifiable bonnet is part of the first to item to be built. I still have no idea why some call it a 'hood' 😆 After having experience of one partwork where the bonnet latches were badly moulded and loose plastic bits only, it was reassuring to see that this model from Agora has some proper sprung-loaded latches that also look extremely good. Yes, a little fiddly to assemble, but definitely a nice touch. Some neoprene tape is also added to the top edge of the bonnet to protect the bodywork from being marked. Stage 2: Left-leaning Front Wheel Unlike Agora's GT500, we get an early appearance from one of the wheels. With this one, the centre wheel section is sandwiched between the outer rims, as well as being firmly screwed into place. It's also vital that you soak the tyre in just-boiled water for around 5 minutes to soften it enough so you can fit the inner assembly in position. This one still took a little wresting but it does fit in the end. Now the wheel brake is assembled as shown, and a single screw holds the parts together. The brake assembly will only fit into the wheel in one position due to a slot system, and the wheel is secured from the outside using a screw. Be careful not to tighten too much or the wheel won't rotate. The hubcap is then pushed into the knock-on and this fasten my magic magnet to the wheel. Stage 3: Steering wheel and exhaust parts I'm not sure what the leather seat is made from, but it does feel like leather and is beautifully soft. The steering wheel also has a realistic wood grain effect. The Cobra badge fits to the middle and will only fit the correct way around as the locating pips are different sizes. The exhausts are also a much fit and can only fit one way round. Stage 4: Engine & Exhaust Parts Perhaps the most fiddly part of this is curving the photo-etch edge of the air filter. To help, I first wrapped it around a small paint bottle and then inserted in the groove in the air filter top. This is all locked in place when the bottom is added. The carburettor bottom and top are now added and the whole assembly fitted to the engine block. The exhaust manifold parts are numbered and plug into the main exhaust system. I found things fit a little easier by scraping away some of th chrome plating first. No glue was needed at all as everything was a very good fit. Stage 5: Oil Filter and Exhaust Parts The oil filter is fitted to the bracket which then connects to the engine plate. There's not a lot to this pack as the exhaust parts are scheduled to be completed in the next stage. Stage 6: Exhaust Pipes As with the first exhaust, the manifolds on this are assembled in the same way as the first, using the numbering system. This is a little fiddly but goes together quite well. Final adjustments can be made later in the build. That's it until next time 😊

Please do! Another sure will be good 😎

That is looking so nice. Glad the Chaos Black fitted the bill too.

That really is very beautiful. Is that boxwood or lemon?

That sir, is looking champion! The sanding and shaping look real good. The second layer should be quite easy now.

I'm interested too. Minwax Wass recommended to me, but not sure it was water-based.

Excellent work! I'd love to see you start your own build log and sharing with us please. Nicely planked hull.

That's looking spot on. Those ply bulwarks are easy enough too. You shouldn't have any ripple with them on the bow either. Just get the top of them as close to the tops of the bulkheads as you can.

Pretty much anything is fixable, especially at this stage. Just take your time. Really liking watching you build this one.

Looking nice! Any chance you can still twist those stern planks in a little so they make more contact with the false keel?

Thanks for that. I'll keep this link here, but please can this topic be limited to the software that Rob has posted here. That will keep this topic straightforward.

Pinned! (...and thanks for all your work, Rob)

Looking real good. It's good to get that first planking on and them remove those temporary beams.

There will be a 1:64 range available from Vanguard Models in the near future. I'm building the prototypes very shortly.

'Loosely' admiralty style, I reckon. Looks very simplistic.

Been there, done that! 🤪

Nice to see another Duchess coming together. You can tell it's a very solid frame! Yes, there are so many interlocking slots that applying glue afterwards is the safest way and PVA/Titebond have good penetration...and even more so with a little dilution too. I've had to use this method on Victory too because of the sheer size of joint coverage area. By the time I'd be half way through applying, the chances are the glue would be going off, so application afterwards was key.