thibaultron

Great work! Thanks for sharing them!

In the model railroad hobby, they have been saying the same thing for over 60 years! This hobby will also survive.

I save my work several times during a session upping the "Revision" number each time (i.e. File_011.f3d, File_002....). This allows me to both not loose the last X (mins, hours) time of work, if the computer or program hiccups, (or a cat jumps on my keyboard), or I think of a better way to do an operation. And Yes, I have some of my projects that have run into hundreds of revision files. I can always delete or Zip them when I finish. Do not be afraid to go back and redo something, if you find new information/details during the design, or something you did does not print and fit like you thought.

I run piece of wire or wood into the bore and touch hole to get any resin out, and print with the muzzles pointing away from the plate to encourage the resin to drip out. Holding the barrel in a pool of cleaner while cleaning the bore helps. I let the cannons dry over night, after final cleaning, before curing them. This allows any moisture in the barrel to dry, and not have liquid run out and mar the exterior surface. For larger scales I have an UV LED that run into the barrel, to insure the bore is cured. I think I detailed these steps earlier in this thread.

Depending on how must saw dust or dust you are creating, several companies make ceiling mount units similar to this. https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-hanging-air-filter-3-speed/g0738 I was lucky ans found a delta unit used for much less.

Bragdon Weathering Powders, are more expensive, but are made from finely ground real materials, like the Rust is finely ground rust. They also have a pressure sensitive adhesive, so will stay on the surface, and be less susceptible to being rubbed off after application. With any of these a light coat of flat clear should be concidered to lock the powders in place.

I would suggest using the window on the side as a guide rather than the door. I think the door is regular height, but narrow.

If the real cars have them painted, I vote for that.

Here is a drawing, better showing the positioning of the transom on the axletree.

http://lastskipjacks.com/images/ladykatie_trailboard.jpg

At least on Chesapeake Bay boats the Trailboard was in two pieces, as one piece was mounted on the hull and the other then angled out from it to the bowsprit. The joint was angled so the board met seamlessly between the two parts. This also accounts for the upward curve of this section. As a side note typically the only blue on a boat in this area was on the trailboard, as a background to the stars and name, representing the blue background on the US flag. It was otherwise concidered bad luk to paint any part of the boat blue.

Here are the files for the 9 Pounder Carronade with trunions carriage for the individual parts. They need the same fabricated parts as in the previous post. Install the eyelet with the ring onto the cheek, before building the carriage, otherwise you could break the assembled cheek. Holes for the rest of the eyelets should be drilled for depth, and or diameter after the carriage parts are built. Install the eyelets before adding the trucks and hoops. The transom is installed with its lower back edge even with the upper back edge of the front axletree, and the "nose" overhanging the axletree at the front. Cheek A Cheek B Front axletree hoop (holds the truck/wheel on). Front Axletree. The hole for the horizontal eyelet goes toward the front. Front truck/wheel Quion Rear Axletree Hoop Rear Axletree. The hole for the horizontal eyelet goes toward the rear. Shelf stool, the semicircular grove fits over the cross brace bolt shaft. Transom. Angles backward. Cap-Squares They are mirror images of each other, and only fit in place over the trunions correctly on their respective sides. They should run lengthwise, even with the top of the cheeks with the cannon mounted. STL files (Zipped) STL Files.zip

One more set of files. Several months ago I posted a file for a 9 Pounder Carronade with trunnions. Here is a file for the associated carriage that was on the drawing. This file has the carriage body as one piece with the shelf, quoin, and trucks (wheels with the locking band as separate parts. In a few days I will be posting a set of files with all the parts as separate pieces. You have to make the eyelets and rings yourself, as well as add a piece of wire for the cross brace bolt. Here is a picture of the Carranade barrel and the file for it. The trunnions have been drawn over long, and should be trimmed to length, during the fitting to the carriage. Cannonade 9 Pounder with Extended Trunnions Full Size_1174_62mm.stl Here are the general arraignment graphics for the assembled carriage, with the various rings and eyelets labeled. Here is a dimensioned drawing of the rings and eyelets. Note: the "B" eyelet is now a part of the caps, and do not have to be formed. You will have to put in a wire between the two holes on the inside of the carriage sides, for the cross brace. This rod also supports one end of the shelf. This rod is shown in the bottom view graphic (above). This is the drawing of the carriage parts. This is the file. 9 Pounder Carronade Single Piece Carriage_Full Size_1235_87mm.stl

You can buy a CD player that plugs into a USB port on your computer.

The new files are now in the NRG resources section.