thibaultron

In any era ship, if you do not know the specific ingredients of the paint used at shipyard X in year Y, you will never get the "right" color. The best you can do is get a good representation, of the colors used. Also during the age of sail, the captain was allowed latitude to change paint colors, rigging, etc. to his taste (within bounds). I once worked with a contract engineer, who was proud to own a "Historic" farm in PA. That was until it came time to repaint it! As it was listed as historic, he was required to use only paint made the same as when the farm was new down to the exact formula recorded in the local Historic Society's records! He sold the farm, and bought a newer not "Historic" farm. He made money on the sale, and the new farm cost less than the cost of repainting the old one! I model the Santa Fe Railroad, and have many books listing the Santa Fe Standard Colors. The only problem, is that the records of the formula used for say "Santa Fe Yellow" have been lost. The best we can do is compare color photos, or possibly faded paint chips removed from existing buildings as references. Just use a nice flat red.

If I am building a long post, rather than a quick reply, I make a Word file of the post, and save it. Then I can finish it later. Once it is done, while still in Word, I select and copy the text, then paste it into the forum block. This has several advantages, especially if you are adding to your build thread. First, you are saving what you made, for your future use, without having to go back searching through the thread. Second, I generally create the post, save it, and wait an hour or so, and reread it, with a fresh mind. It is amazing how many mistakes I find, or decide that I need to change a section, to make it clearer. Lastly you can spell and grammar check it. It also helps you in a couple years if you can go back through the files on your computer to remember just how the heck you did X task. Also don't forget the great MSW crash! If this happens again you have all the files to restore the start of any builds you were in the middle of.

While you can't reach the petals, you can manually move the rudder and see the petals move.

For long thin parts such as the stick, 3D resin parts would likely be too fragile. The resin is brittle. For things like the pulleys, and the larger assemblies 3D printed parts should be fine. I don't think 3D filament printers could give you the smooth surfaced parts you want, and have much courser print abilities. For the stick mechanism, #d parts for the clevises and hinged parts should be OK, though you may have to fabricate the actual clevis tabs. The thinner shafts should be metal.

Have one on order!

The tip on painting the fret work is great! Wonderful little model!

Do you have a higher resolution or larger, picture of the above drawing? If, so I will draw you a 3D print file for that specific cannon.

To reduce the surface tension in the thinned white glue, add a couple of drops of dish detergent to the mix. Model railroaders use this for gluing scenery products, and securing ballast to the tracks.

I almost forgot, AHM offered two 1/48th scale kits, one of the locomotive driven by Casey Johns on that fateful night, I think it was a 4-6-0 Ten Wheeler, and one of the Indiana Harbor Belt 0-8-0 three cylinder switcher. They offered unpowered display kits, and power chassis kits to convert them into operating models, for 2 rail O Gauge track. I have two of the 0-8-0 kits, and a partial built kit that has the power chassis.

Perhaps you can spray on the glue. Dilute it (white Glue) about 1 to 1, and spray it on with a spray bottle. You can buy the spray bottles at craft and building supply stores.

Sorry, I don't remember where I got it, likely Ebay. I have a spreadsheet of my kits, and that one is on the list, It would have been purchased several years ago, as I remember buying most of the others.

There is a static (sort of) 1/75th model of a Japanese loco a Type C62 4-6-4. It is motorized, but not powered from the wheels. That's all I know about it. I have one, but it is buried, and I can't locate it, to give more info. There are several locos in other scales. 2 US HO locos the Big Boy, and a Hudson. Also in HO is at least one German Loco. In larger scales there is the Vulcan with 3 cars cars in 1/45th. The Rocket in 1/26th. There is and OO Rocket, that I think makes it 1/76th. In 1/25th there is "The General", a model of one of the locomotives that were in the Great Train Chase"(?) during the Civil War, where a group of Union spies stole a train and tried to destroy the tracks on a Southern railroad. They were chased by another loco, and captured, without time to stop long enough to actually do much damage. The Civil War being what it was, they were executed. Ocre also has several locomotive multimedia kits. I have one of the Adler a German locomotive built by Robert Stephenson, and shipped to Germany, for one of their railroads. It was shipped by ship, canal, and horses to reach the location. They also offer some trolleys and a cable car. Their model of the Rocket, has problems with the accuracy of the tender. The 1/26th Rocket is a better model. There is also a model of Trevithick's locomotive, though the historical accuracy of there ever even one having been built makes it suspect. That being said, I built a model of it when I was in my early teens, and it came with a display case. I kept it for many years, until it was broken by a friend's child. I kept the display case, and have another kit, that I will build and install in the case, for memories sake.

Hope you start feeling better soon!

Is there a company that his models were mostly designed for, so I can avoid them in the future, or some other way of identifying his designs?

If you want to learn about lathe and mill work, this is a fantastic channel. Just be prepaired to jump down a huge Rabbit Hole! https://www.youtube.com/@mrpete222