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wq3296

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Everything posted by wq3296

  1. wq3296
    Greetings David, She is looking very good. Don't forget a bottle of Sailor Jerry's when you finish her - but why wait? wq3296
  2. wq3296
    Greetings jarsjax, I used 9mm primers (from spent cartridges) to fashion running lights for my Charles P. Notman 4 masted schooner. wq3296
  3. wq3296
    Greetings Al... You are playing with us. Looks great. wq3296
  4. wq3296
    Greetings Jon, Understood. wq3296
  5. wq3296
    Greetings Doc... A few years ago, I built the Mamoli Rattlesnake kit right out of the box with a couple of changes made to improve the model detail. Not really sure why anyone would need a practicum since, in my opinion, the plans are very good. All in all, I think it is a good kit as is. wq3296
  6. wq3296
    Greetings Jim, Chapelle identifies the 1775 Independence as a 10 gun sloop. It would appear based on similar vessels that she would have had a cat on each side of the bow, with a tackle consisting of two sheaves at the end of each cat suspending a line and a double block with a hook. The hook would have been attached to the anchor ring when the anchor was hoisted to the surface so that the anchor could be lifted to the railing for stowing. wq3296
  7. wq3296
    Greetings Cap'n Jim, As you might expect it depends on the type, era, size, etc. of the ship. Do you have a ship in mind? Once that information is provided I am sure you will receive an answer. wq3296
  8. wq3296
    Greetings pilidk, I have been on many cruise ships (not to be confused with ocean liners). I suggest you start with a bath tub. wq3296
  9. wq3296
    Greetings Phil, I have X-Acto handles that are at least 25 years old and they still hold blades about as well as when new. I think the difference is that X-Acto tools were exclusively made in the USA back then. It is my understanding that some (maybe all) of their stuff is made in China now, which explains the drop off in quality. I will gladly pay more for items made in USA, or Europe, or Japan for that matter, if available. In my opinion, most items made in China are junk and not worth the powder to blow them to hell. I wish suppliers were more forthright about where their products were made. I have been disappointed many times when I receive a product and find the dreaded words "Made in China" on it. wq3296
  10. wq3296
    Greetings Brent... Based on my experience, BlueJacket Shipcrafters and Model Shipways have the best instructions. Plus, these kits are made in the USA. In my opinion, Euro Models drawings are beautifully detailed, but the instructions are in Italian and rather vague. Accordingly, I suggest Euro Models are geared toward the experience builder. BlueJacket and Model Shipways are more user friendly. wq3296
  11. wq3296
    Greetings John, The whale boats are fun to build and really finish up nicely. As you know, they are of the so called "bread and butter" construction and are easy to put together so long as the lifts are in the right order. I used a Dremel type tool and sandpaper to shape them. I made the rudders and other small components out of scrap wood and cardboard. wq3296
  12. wq3296
    Greetings John, Relative to anchor stocks, thanks for looking into the reason for cylindrical stocks. As to the grind stone question, it was used to sharpen harpoons, cutting tools for whale processing, etc. Good description of cutting up a whale in Moby Dick. wq3296
  13. wq3296
    Greetings John, Nice work on Morgan. I saw her last year in Boston after the recent renovation. I built her several years back and found the kit to be accurately detailed down to the shin cracker wheel. I have always been curious as to why the anchor stocks are round in cross section. Do you know if this is a unique detail to Morgan, or to whalers in general? wq3296
  14. wq3296
    Greetings All, The gun carriages supplied with the Fair American are not up to par, in my opinion. The parts supplied are laser cut and the one piece bases include studs for mounting the wheels. Said studs easily break off during assembly and are wider than the respective holes in the supplied wheels - causing more studs to break off when the wheels are installed. If you can successfully mount the wheels as designed, or end up gluing them directly to the carriage sides, you are left with a hole in the wheel. I filled these holes with spackle (any filler will work) and sanded them smooth. Note: you may try adding metal rod axels under the bases, but check to be sure you won't end up with clearance problems at the gun ports in the bulwarks. wq3296
  15. wq3296
    Good point Joel. wq3296
  16. wq3296
    Greetings Dave, It looks like Alex M and Jud agree that of course you shape the garboard to fit into the smallest rabbet (Version 1). Based on your last question, you can see why the garboard has to be beveled (fitted) to the rabbet. If the rabbet was to deep, you would think that the keel could be weakened in those areas. I expect it was a judgement call, based on experience, that would dictate how much the shipwrights would shape the garboard and/or the keel for best fit and watertightness. I like what Jud said, that shaping the garboard would have no challenge to real ship builders. wq3296
  17. wq3296
    Greetings Jond, She looks great. I read A Shipyard In Maine and built Blue jacket's Charles P. Notman - a beautiful model. I am surprised more folks don't build these great schooners. Looking forward to seeing your ship progress. wq3296
  18. wq3296
    Greetings, As usual, there are few absolutes, no matter what you are building. If you are talking about models, then maybe only the keel is cut as an expedient, and leakage is not a problem. However, on real ships, at least on the new Mayflower, the garboard strake is beveled, more like Version 1 above. Further, I think Dave is referring to real ship building since he uses the term shipwright. wq3296
  19. wq3296
    Greetings Dave, Good topic. I can give an opinion. I expect there are as many ways to shape the rabbet as there are shipwrights. I expect that the angle of the rabbet would change multiple times along the hull length as the garboard strake was installed. In some cases the shipwright may have chosen to bevel the plank edge rather than hold a specific rabbet angle. Further, caulking is always a concern, and I am not sure holding the lower outside corner of the plank at the outer face of the keel would facilitate a good caulk job. I would want to bevel the plank and let it in to the keel to insure a good caulk joint. You may be right as rain - let's see what other opinions may be. wq3296
  20. wq3296
    Greetings Gary, I realized after I re read your post that your question concerned the guys and not the jib boom itself. Yes, by all means add more guys. My ship that have jib booms have at least two guys and some have three. wq3296
  21. wq3296
    Greetings Gary, I have sheet 2 (11''x 17" size) that shows details of how the spars are to be built for FA and there is a detail specifically showing the jib boom. I am now in the midst of building the spars for FA and I have finished the bowsprit complete with the jib boom as shown on sheet 2. I think the detail you show indicates that the jib boom may be extended for certain conditions and that a second set of guys is required for that scenario. Hope this helps. If you don't have sheet 2, let me know and I can describe exactly what the plan shows. wq3296
  22. wq3296
    Greetings Tim, Good job - your work brings back memories from when I built her a few years ago. I numbered mine 164 - couldn't bring myself to call it 109 like every other Elco you see. One of the great things about Bluejacket is the diversity of models they make. wq3296
  23. wq3296
    Greetings pug... I see no advantage. Plus, the added hull thickness of the second planking layer may bugger other aspects of the overall model design. As was pointed out, much of the lower hull will be cooper plated, so any "irregularities" will be covered up. There is nothing wrong or substandard about a single layer of planking. In fact real wooden ships typically had a single layer of planking. Why screw with it? wq3296
  24. wq3296
    Greetings Tad... Very informative details. They definitely show what I believe to be the proper deck detailing for an 18th century war ship, as described in Jim Roberts' book. No mention of margin planks in any of the details. Yes, Victory's decks have been rebuilt/replaced several times I am sure. However, with the information available on that ship, and her historical significance, I doubt her decks would have been rebuilt/replaced any other way than historically accurate. In other words, what you see today (deck planks laid up against a waterway) is probably how she looked when originally launched. It would make no sense to do otherwise. wq3296
  25. wq3296
    Greetings Chuck, All I have at hand is Jim's book that was provided with a MS kit. However, other kits I have built show the same detail i.e. margin plank with nibbed deck planks or waterway and no nibs. I am not claiming that Jim's book is dogma but, as with so many other modeling issues, you pick a horse and ride it. I think we agree that nibbing was not typical on 18th century warships. I am open to change if there is a definitive right or wrong way that this planking detail should be built. Let me know. wq3296

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