wq3296
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Everything posted by wq3296
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Gun ports
wq3296 replied to Jparsley's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Greetings Jpar... Don't give up the ship, she looks good. As a suggestion: 1. You will need to make all ports the same size and parallel across the top and bottom. Accordingly, determine which one is the largest and make all the rest the same size. Plus, this will allow you to insure that they are all parallel. You 2. Initially, do not cut the openings to finish size. Cut them about a 1/16" under sized all the way around. 3. Next, pack the space between the inner and outer planking full of good wood filler, or model filler. Let this completely harden for a day or so. 4. Then, using needle files, sanding sticks, etc. open up the ports to final size. 5. When you are done, you won't have to frame around the ports. wq3296 -
First time rigging - being organized
wq3296 replied to RichardG's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Greetings Richard, In my opinion, you learn by doing. It seems you already have all the information you need based on the reading, videos, etc. you have absorbed. Plus, you want to make a spread sheet? A revenue cutter is relatively straight forward and a good ship with which to get your feet wet. You will probably take as much time to make a spread sheet as you would to rig the ship, and you won't have gained any skill for the time spent. Just do it, and as other have commented you will become proficient in no time. Don't over think this and don't be afraid to get started. Just do it. wq3296 -
Gun ports
wq3296 replied to Jparsley's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Greetings JP.... Did you frame all around ports before applying planking? Typically, if you drill a series of small holes around, and just inside, the finished perimeter dimension of the ports you can cut them out with a #11 blade and then file to final size using the frame as a guide. wq3296 -
Greetings Daniel, According to Longridge, the small ports were for ventilation. They were square and "have a special sort of hinge". He said that he did not cut out these ports on his model "but put on an imitation hinge." A photo of his model shows what appears to be an oblong shape at the center of the gun ports which must be this special hinge. A drawing in his book (outboard profile, Plan No.2) shows the hinges on the lower deck gun deck. From the way hinge is shaped, it would appear that it is hinged at the top. wq3296
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Greetings Daniel, Photographs of Victory in Longridge's book The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships shows tackles were used to open the port lids. These tackles were rigged to the bottom side of the deck structure above the respective guns. The photos show an eyebolt with ring in each lower corner of the lid - inboard side. Based on the way they were rigged, I expect the weight of the lids would cause them to self close when the tackles were released. The ring bolts were probably used to pull them in tight and lock them in place while under way, as Druxey suggests. wq3296
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Copper on Hermione
wq3296 replied to JagMkV's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Greetings, Joel is correct. Wooden Boat has just completed a series on the Hermoine replica and the bottom was painted out as shown in Joel's photo. According to the article, the ship is an exact replica except for the auxiliary propulsion/generator equipment and safety equipment. wq3296 -
Greetings Peter, Your model is very nice. You may want to consider making a companionway to provide access to the cabin. The plans show two doors in the bulkhead that would be about 2' high according to scale. I think this is a mistake on the original model and has carried through to the MS plans. On my FA, I added an appropriately sized companionway. wq3296
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Greetings Captain, I am in the standing rigging phase of my FA. I had the same questions that you did regarding this model. As you may know, MS model is a model of the original FA done years ago. That model may not be an accurate representation of the actual FA at all. I did some basic research of brigs from that era and, as a result made a few changes: 1. I deleted the two gun port covers that were supposed to be for the two guns in the cabin. 2. I added a skylight to the quarterdeck which would have provided light and ventilation for the cabin area 3. I added a companionway to provide access to the cabin from the main deck. The plans show a door to the cabin that would have been about 2' feet 4. The deck in the cabin probably would have been 2-3 feet below the main deck to provide headroom in the cabin 5. I may add a long boat to the main deck to be supported by spars between the gallows 6. Because I added the companionway, I built a free standing helm to support the wheel I also made other minor changes to the kit to make the model more accurate to how it was probably built. wq3296
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Greetings, I think jbshan is correct. In my opinion, it isn't reasonable that such large jeer blocks would be required even for the main yard of such a large ship. wq3296
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Greetings Shaun, My opinions based on experience: 1. It sounds like some of the slots (either in the bulkheads or keel/former) need to tweaked. 2. The tops of the bulkheads need to be flush with the top of keel former, so you will have to deepen the slots of the offending bulkheads. Due to the sheer (top slope of the bulkhead former) you may find that the fore or aft edge of the bulkhead can be made flush, but the other edge is slightly below the top of the former. This is perfectly fine, so long as one edge or the other is flush with the bulkhead top. In no case should bulkhead tops extend above the former. Further, do not sand down the tops of the bulkheads to make them flush. If you do you will bugger up the camber (cross slope) of the deck. 3. For bulkheads that extend below the former, the slots may be too deep. First check to be sure that the tops of the bulkheads are flush with the former as discussed above and, if so, just sand the bottom of the bulkheads until they fit and match the bottom slope of the keel/former. If the entire top of the bulkhead is below the top of the former, as well as the bottom, the slot is too deep and you will need to shim it with scrap wood to make it flush with the top of the former, first, before you sand it to shape. 4. By all means trim #14 until it fits correctly. wq3296 4.
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Greetings Sal, Nice work. Regarding pintles and gudgeons, I expect they were probably castings or wrought iron. If castings, they were probably iron or maybe bronze. I have never heard of cast copper parts because copper is too soft to resist wear. Given the stress pintles and gudgeons were under, I would bet on the iron over bronze. Not sure if builders were aware of galvanic action back then, other than its effects, but bronze and copper would go away very quickly in salt water further weakening stressed parts. Let's see what the "experts" say. wq3296
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
wq3296 replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Greetings Paul, I think your build technique exactly captures the way models should look. Your model is perfect because, in my opinion, it simulates the way real ships were built. Modelers, myself included, tend to build model ships as if we were building model cars - too much precision. Keep up the good work. wq3296 -
If we learn from our mistakes, I must be pretty smart now.
wq3296 replied to skipper1947's topic in Wood ship model kits
Greetings Skip... Nice model. I see no reason why you couldn't install the gun by the stairs. There is no rule that calls for the guns to be perpendicular to the gun ports. I would place it at an angle to the port so that it fits the space. I expect guns were placed as necessary to fit the spaces available. wq3296 -
timing belts and pulleys
wq3296 replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Greetings Kurt, This type of belt may not be suitable for your rig. I would check with the manufacture before making the change. Note that this belt will not slip if the blade fetches up on something which could result in damage to the blade, the piece you're cutting, you, etc. wq3296 -
Greetings J... At that length (730mm = 28.74in.) I would think that it is a major structural element such as the keel that attaches to the keel former after the planking is done. Dowels are usually round in cross section. wq3296
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A quality build Gary, nice job. I have just started the standing rigging on my FA. wq3296
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Greetings Don, Very nice job. One small thing - from what I could see you show the prop attached by a small dia. pin. In reality the prop shaft would be much thicker, closer to the dia. of the prop hub. I suggest you re attach the prop using a dowel or thicker rod to replace the original one. Beyond that she looks good. wq3296
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Greetings, There are far to many variables to draw any conclusions as to who,when, where sailors wore shoes, or not. I expect that from the beginning man sought protection for his feet as the need arose resulting in the development of foot wear. As time went on convention and fashion took over and shoes became the norm even if not needed. However, the default position has always been bare feet and, unless there is a need or a requirement, people prefer to be bare footed. So what if shoes were found on the wreck? All it means is that some folks wore them all the time and others occasionally or not at all - same as today. You cannot draw any meaningful conclusions one way or the other. Disclaimer: My opinions do not apply to any ships that may have been crewed by women. They seem to love shoes and would find a way to wear a new pair every day even if they had to work in the rigging. wq3296
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Greetings Richard, Was the storage of shot on deck typical, or only done when the ship was being prepared for battle? I don't know the answer, but if only during battle prep/battle, then your concerns would probably not apply. I would think that the shot was stored in designated lockers below decks until needed. Accordingly, you could locate storage racks practically any place in the vicinity of the guns and not be wrong. wq3296
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Greetings Randy, Nice looking model. I have built two Mamolis: Rattlesnake and Caracca Atlantica. I liked both kits. The pre painted wood is a nice feature. wq3296
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Greetings, Full disclosure: I have not built any AL kits. However, it is my understanding that they are good value for money and good platforms from which to build a decent model. As with everything else, you get what you pay for. Don't expect the best woods, fittings, drawings, instructions, etc. unless you are prepared to pay higher prices than for a typical AL model. Personally, I like MS and Bluejacket models for all experience levels. Plus, made in USA. wq3296
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no garboard strake
wq3296 replied to kier's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Greetings Kier, In my opinion, so long as the stock you have is the right thickness, I wouldn't worry about the width. You can always edge glue a couple of planks together to form a wider plank from which to cut the garboard. Kier, don't fixate on the idea that the garboarb must be wider. At model scale it is perfectly acceptable to use whatever width is suitable to do the job. wq3296 -
no garboard strake
wq3296 replied to kier's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Greetings Kier, I agree with Joel. You could say that garboard is more about a specific location than a planking width. The garboard may be cut from a wider stock to facilitate fitment to the hull framing. wq3296 -
Blacken Brass
wq3296 replied to sailor jim's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Greetings Jim, Forget all this baloney - get some flat black spray paint. It works every time. wq3296 -
Using the "Chopper"
wq3296 replied to jdiven's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I use the X-Acto razor saw with the fine teeth, with the small aluminum miter box. wq3296
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