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TBlack

NRG Member
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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. Boy, am I late to the party! Looks like a great move, especially with a shop above ground. Can't image how you found it, Chuck, but kudos to you! If you don't play golf, how's your skiing? Tom
  2. At this point it might be nice if Chris Watton would weigh in.
  3. OK, Tom, here's more information. This time from Delf's log of Speedy. The following pictures are from his log, page 23 You can see that he has mounted coils on the bitt at the foremast and coils on the hatch at the main. Maybe that's the way to go? Tom
  4. Gregory, They are bowlines, sheets and clews. Here is the plan view: Given this information, maybe Lester's solution is the best one
  5. Tom, So far there doesn’t seem to be an answer to the issue. I’m facing the same problem with my Sophie build which is an alteration of Speedy. Hope someone comes up with an answer. Tom
  6. Now I've served and rigged the lower main shrouds which will be all the progress for a while, as we are away for a week:
  7. Isn’t it water soluble? At the very least you should be able to sand it off.
  8. I've tried, desperately, to include pictures of my progress. Not going to happen! Nevertheless, you'll have to take my word for it that I've installed the Jeer block/tye assembly, the truss pendants, futtock staves, catharpins, and finally the fore stays.. I've got a picture or two; they're just not very good, for what it's worth, here they are. Anyway, I'm on to installing the shrouds for the main mast.
  9. Galkar, Your interest in the HM Sophie hits a soft spot for me. I, too, am a fan of the O'Brian books, and, as it turns out, my youngest daughter is Sophie. So there was nothing for it but to build a model of the HM Sophie. As you have discerned, a good starting point is with the Speedy from Chris Watton (I have a very early version; you should benefit from the up-dates). Check out my log (HMS Sophie). The interesting part is the back end that has to be bulked up to accommodate a quarter deck and captains cabin. Otherwise, the build is pretty straightforward according to the kit instructions. Tom
  10. ,I should have mentioned that, too. Good eye/hand coordination!
  11. Well, Keith, hopefully you’re at peace with the result. From my viewpoint, you are probably the only one that would be able to pick them out. Tom
  12. It doesn’t seem to matter whether you are working on ships or something else. You’re attention to detail and commitment to making the best possible is very evident.
  13. Planking imperfections? Not from where I’m viewing. And if the lines at the bow look beautiful, it’s because you made them so! Tom
  14. Family before model. You’ve got your priorities straight
  15. That you can figure out where all the dominoes go is a testament to your mental acuity. I’m in awe. Tom
  16. Sorry to break up the build, but those gifts are a wonderful idea that your family will cherish. Butterfly is magnificent! Tom
  17. Good idea on the sub decking. Your idea of heating the glue is new to me. Good luck. Tom
  18. Nice work on the deck. In fact, nice work on the model! Tom
  19. Gary, I’m late to the party, and I’m reading that you are dealing with stiffness in the shrouds. Some folks put a little water on them to make them more pliable. Tom
  20. I've done the lower fore shrouds. I thought serving them was going to be a challenge inasmuch as the serving thread was so small. But, no, with Chuck's little machine it turns out to be quite simple. That part was easy. Everything else, as always, I seem to have to do 2-3 times to get it right. In setting the upper deadeyes, I used the usual spacer. And that works OK, but Druxey has a different approach that he outlines in his TFFM vol. 4 and his Speedwell book vol. 2 that I think I'll try for the main shrouds. The benefit I'm looking for is a neater appearance of the seizing around the shroud above the deadeyes which can be done off the model. I think before I do that I'll rig the truss pendant on the fore yard, using Toni Levine's excellent tutorial.
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