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TBlack

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  1. TBlack
    I've overlaid and cemented the rim piece and pierced the top for the crows feet. As I mentioned, I'm not doing the battens justice. To see how it should be done, please visit Theodosius' log of Speedy, his post #99 and subsequent back in September Now I'll taper the battens according to Lees.
  2. TBlack
    According to Lees, the rim plank is 1.5" thick. The kit supplied rim is 1 mm, which is approximately 2", close enough. So I'm faced with this: My top in the center, the kit supplied rim/batten assembly on the left, and a template for the crows feet holes on the right. The battens aren't strictly correct, and they need to be tapered, but it all gets painted black where detail will be lost. In other words, I'm going with the kit piece. As to crows feet, it's not clear to me whether Sophie qualifies; she's right on the cusp of not having them, but it's extra detail and not too hard to do at this scale (I did a euphroe block at 1:96 for my Sphynx class). So, I'll overlay that template to position the holes. Tom
  3. TBlack
    Once I've flipped the top it looks like this on the bottom: I fill in the spaces like before: Then I can take it off the former to work on the outboard shape. Blessedly, I have a template for that exercise: And then it's on to the rim. Tom
  4. TBlack
    Here I've filled in the athwartship planks. What I've done is simulate the scarfed joints that make up the top. Next is flip the top over and do the same on the underside.
  5. TBlack
    Finish the long planks, which are 1/4" wide, BTW.: The next thing is to fill in between the longitudinal planks.
  6. TBlack
    As to the planking, I'm using 1/32" thick planks. I can't find anything in Lees that suggests width. Longridge uses 1/32" as his thickness and 3/16" as his width at 1:96 scale. Druxey's tops are a 3 layered sandwich of 1/32" stuff, while mine are 2 layers of 1/32". Anyway, the first steps are like this: Those planks are just laying there. They are not glued. I'm not worried about the precise length at this point. The next phase is this: That cross piece is glued and locks everything in place, and I will now proceed to put the rest of the athwart planks in place maybe after dinner or maybe tomorrow, but not now. Keith will hate me for this, but it's cocktail time! Tom
  7. TBlack
    Tom, Nice set to the sails! Tom
  8. TBlack
    As to the tops, we are blessed that there are templates to start from: We punch out the center squares and use those to make identical squares, except 1/8" thick and glue them to a backboard: Next comes the planking, but for later, because it's my bedtime now! Tom
  9. TBlack
    Got the trees assembled. A little black paint next, but my focus is on the tops. I'm going to depart from the kit here. I followed Longridge, page 171, in building tops for my 1:96 scale version of Sphynx which turned out great. They are built up from individual planks, and not too difficult especially now at 1:64. I'll document it.
  10. TBlack
    Yes, Ian, just dropped in for the color comparison. I'll make the bowsprit out of the cherry as well so all will match, hopefully. Tom
  11. TBlack
    Keith, Thanks for the support. I think you can see from the photo that, color-wise, the mast matches the rest of the wood on the ship. Whereas, the bowsprit, which is in the kit supplied wood, is a little off. Glad I went the way I did.
  12. TBlack
    Must be cold and windy in Manitoba about now, Anyway, back to my masts: after due consideration, I’ve decided to make them out of the cherry dowels that I have on hand. Making them out of pear would have required that I first repair my 55 year old Rockwell Delta 9” table saw, and then borrow the use of a friend’s wood working lathe. All of that was getting too complicated for a minor color difference. I’ve sized the two masts and will put in the flats this afternoon. Tom
  13. TBlack
    So, Keith, I see we have an Uncle Bob (knocklouder) in Manitoba who, hopefully, is over his sickness and back on to Pegasus, mice notwithstanding. And, Bob, welcome to the family! Tom
  14. TBlack
    Great work Keith. Dad would be proud. Tom
  15. TBlack
    Keith, bro, The spars are painted and the masts only at the doubling. Tom
  16. TBlack
    On pages 98-101 of my edition of the book bo'sun mate Mowett is explaining to Stephen Maturin the various masts of Sophie. He states that the main mast is 56 feet long. In 1:64 scale that's 10.5". Chris has the mast of Speedy at just under 10": OK close enough. The foremast, according to Mowett is 49 feet, or 9.2". Chris has it at just under 9, again close enough. For mast material I'm at a quandary. Here is a comparison of what is in the kit vs. a cherry dowel: The picture doesn't really show the difference, but the kit supplied dowel has a gray tint to it while the cherry is a reddish brown. What are mast supposed to look like? I just noticed that in Ron Neilson's build of Camilla, he uses Swiss pear for his masts. I might try that as well. Tom
  17. TBlack
    Now I've completed the helm and on to the spars and/or boats. For boats it will be a 12' jolly boat, an 18' cutter and a 24' launch. I'm going to take a shortcut and buy the resin hulls, just doing the finish out.
  18. TBlack
    Isn't that the truth! Almost poetic.
  19. TBlack
    That means he is your uncle too?
  20. TBlack
    Well, I'm getting there. This is not as good as Alan O'Neil's (which is the same scale), but as close as I'm going to get (I think this is the 8th attempt!).
  21. TBlack
    Keith, it may not be exciting to you, but I find it very exciting...what a beautiful shape! She's looong! Tom
  22. TBlack
    Yes, Keith, and happy new year to you too. You made it about 5 hours sooner than those of us across the pond! Tom
  23. TBlack
    Keith, I learned a lot from your approach to Altair. Can't wait to see the slotting sled! Tom
  24. TBlack
    Keith, If you had a 1/16" end mill, would that be more accurate in cutting the slots than doing it on the saw? Tom
  25. TBlack
    Rich, I figured that a wheel is about 2-3" thick, which in my scale is about 1 mm. I can't get that small and have room for spokes. My spoke grooves are 1/32" square, so the total thickness will come out to something like what you are suggesting (2.5mm), depending on how fine I can sand the rim. BTW, I had been trying to get to the thin size, using my end mill. Too brutal. Your suggestion of sanding to final shape is the way to go. Tom P.S. Do you have a brand of cigar you can recommend? Mine don't have the cedar separator.

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