TBlack
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Everything posted by TBlack
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“The material is fixed into place using a method I learned from model railroaders. I mixed up a solution of 50/50 water/PVA with a couple of drops of surfactant to break surface tension. I use a dishwasher rinse agent for this, but windshield washer fluid works great also – or even liquid soap. sounds like you have to be a bit of a chemist to pull this off! -
As I’ve mentioned before, Toni’s explanations are complete and easy to follow. But there’s more: she has also instructed us in the correct terms for the various parts. Thank you, Toni!
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Ok, but you had to manage the depth of cut pretty artistically. TB
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How did you manage to cut that slot so beautifully? And to respond to this comment: "It felt like every time I put something down on the workbench I had to search for half an hour to find it again. It wasn't as if the bench was particularly untidy, I just seemed to be in the habit of hiding what I wanted under the thing I had just put down." Don't beat yourself up too badly; I do that all the time, except the something is usually in plain sight! Tom
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Bro, If it's any comfort, your older brother is on the waiting list at the local "home" Tom
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Looks like a good set of plans/photos to work from. Good luck!
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Reminds me of my model of the Vinal Haven (see log). I’ll certainly be following along. Glad you’re doing the older version. Looks classier Tom
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Keith, you’re doing great. Keep plowing ahead! Eye sight is an issue, but how about shaky hands?
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I used to make the beds on our schooner years ago; skills honed in Navy training camp. I’d be happy to show you my technique when next I’m in the Old Country!
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I’m impressed with your ability to draw those green lines so accurately. Tom
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Much better. On the Vanguard website you can see a picture of them. Tom
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Walter, You are doing a magnificent job on this ship! You and I have the older version of blocks from Chris. If you look at your #72 post, that’s what they are supposed to look like. Shopping at Chris’s site and Chuck Passaro’s site shows that decent blocks are out of stock. So, we are out of luck. I might try knocking off the corners. I’ll let you know how I do. Tom
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Good point, Greg. I hope you are doing well, dear pal. Tom
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So, Chuck, your technique is to use a laser to cut the “teeth” for the gratings. I suppose by the time you program the computer and adjust the laser I might have been able to do the same on my mill? Tom
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Chuck, I’d be interested in your technique for building gratings. Tom
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Keith, are you happy with your cooking, or are you relieved that you now have help? Tom
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What Keith said is spot on. I find getting those wedge pieces just right a horrible task. Tom
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Great photography, Gary. You continue to show great attention to detail in this model, following a fine tradition Tom
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Various spars/yards shaped. Next is to add hardware and paint. I'm going to join several others that thought the PE fittings for the stun'sl booms didn't look right But on closer inspection it turns out that they're perfect.
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Those are the buntlines. If you were to add a sail to the yard, the line (knotted end) would be attached to the sail. Tom
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How do I get to be friends with her too?
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I’m not sure from where you are starting, but alligator clips are a good place. Additionally, if you have a vice into which you can secure the clip by its tail, then you can secure the block in the jaws of the clip. This eliminates the number of moving parts. Stropping becomes easy now. Enough info, or more needed? Tom
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