TBlack

We owned a 58 TR3A so I was bit particular how my hair was parted. 

Spoil sport, I am deflated.

Thanks guys…its just a paper template so dont get too excited.  Hopefully i can now make her look like that using wood.  I will start planking in May after I get back from the Connecticut show.  This is how she will remain until then.  I am bringing the model if anyone happens to be going as well.  
 
I will also bring the completed Winnie.
 
 

NRG Member  148 Location Belfast, Maine #2379    Posted Monday at 05:23 PM Keith,
I got some more photos of Cangarda today.  Slight rain and overcast.
I put in a request to get aboard to take more photos, hope to hear back sometime today or tomorrow.
Note that the discharge pipes are not symmetrical port to starboard.

Well I am starting to feel much better although I am not making any rope or blocks yet.   Still very exhausted.  So my inventory will have to wait.  But I did spend a relaxing day yesterday working on Speedwell.  Mostly out of boredom.  I dont know how some folks can sit around all day doing nothing.
 
Anyway...this starts chapter 3.
 
The square tuck and counter planking.  
 
Everyone knows a square tuck can be very very tricky to make so it looks good.  Rather than fart around with individual elements I decided to take a shot at doing it the exact same way the model builder of the contemporary model did his square tuck.  Unfortunately for him...he didnt have a laser cutter.
 

It took a really long time to get the shape absolutely correct so I liked how it fit.  But once that was done, it took about 15 minutes to bevel the outside edge.  There is a laser etched line for that so it was easy.   
 
I also added the planking within that tricky framework as laser etched lines.  This included treenails.  But the treenails are for placement only.   They are same size as we will treenail the hull planking.  So you can drill them and use 15 pound black or dark brown fishing line for your treenails.   OR...just use the laser etched ones as the final because it still looks pretty darn good.
 
Then glue them on the model making sure they are lined up port and starboard.
 

 
Keep in mind how a square tuck was used and its purpose.   The plank ends would butt against this frame on the forward side.  So it needs to stand proud of the frame already on the model when positioned.   This should be by about 3/64" all the way down.
 

Then its time to plank the counter.  The counter planks are laser cut just like on the Winchelsea model.   They are pretty straight forward.   Sand the sides flush when dont with the hull so planking the sides of the hull will be nice and neat.
 

 
With that done I wanted to take a stab at seeing what the colors of the model will eventually look like.  The contemporary model is painted with solid areas.  The counter being almost a dark blue gray...almost black.   A dark blue stripe down the sides of the hull with a read stripe above that.   
 
I wanted to see what a frieze might look like keeping the same color scheme rather than just paint solid areas like the Contemporary model.
 
So in my sick boredom state...I colorized the template and made a first go at a stern frieze and hull frieze.   Just to see how they would look.   They are just taped on.  Now I realize this might look weird with not seeing the black wales present, but it actually does give you a good sense of what this color scheme might look like.   Once the moldings and wales and stern carvings are added it might look very good.   Imagine the insides of the ports red and the bulwarks as well....In fact I think I like this far better than just painting the hull with solid colors.  What are your thoughts...Any comments?

 

 
 
 
 
 

Fantastic Rick, you are being tremendously helpful,  l think I am going to have to dedicate this build to you. Such wonderful people at MSW. 
So much detail to see in the hull photographs it supports me in my decision to go for a very large scale.

Davits in, according to the book cover painting. They look very far apart for a small ship's boat. BTW, if there is a boat on the davits, would there also be a boat amidships?
You'll notice, also, that I've started installing rigged cannons. No training tackle. As Ron Neilson (hollowneck) points out: too small and finnicky.

I started to make the counter piece and got this far:

In trying to make the curves on the back end I managed to botch it up completely. Start again!
So next I thought I ought to pay attention to Chris Watton's wonderful instructions which go toward the bow. I see from other Speedy logs that dealing with the side bulwark patterns can be interesting. Nevertheless, it's time to install on side at a time. Here is my first attempt now drying:

At another site I recommended elastics and alligator clips, so couldn't use too many nails.
Tom

Mark,
Not a race, right! But it is a question of quality and trying to measure up. Besides, according to NRG standards, this model shouldn't be built (being fictional), so I wonder if my membership will be revoked! With Jim's endorsement I'll go with a centered companionway. Notice Speedwell"s arrangement here:

Notice the ladders come down right at the cannon placement. I want to do the same thing.

Mark,
I had envisioned that below the quarterdeck would look like this:

The center area of the bulkhead is where the ladder and companionway will go. Im going to put the companionway in the center (I've already cut the pieces for that), and the ladder will go to the side.
Tom

OK, 5 foot door in. Ladder to Q-deck next

Keith,
You've got a good idea. I'll need around 10-12. They are 11 mm high. Model Expo has what I need, I think. Anyway, ordered a bunch of their stanchions. Thanks
TB

Keith,
I decided to use your idea on the rope lanyards for the ladders:

You'll also notice that I have installed the cap rail, the top rail on the transom and the gratings. The overall photo:

At this point I need to install the aft davits. Then the rest of the construct is pretty much the same as the kit with the exception of an elm tree pump in the bow (I have no idea why, but it's in the book.) The book also mentions royals which I am not going to include, having decided that O'Brian made a mistake.

Davits in, according to the book cover painting. They look very far apart for a small ship's boat. BTW, if there is a boat on the davits, would there also be a boat amidships?
You'll notice, also, that I've started installing rigged cannons. No training tackle. As Ron Neilson (hollowneck) points out: too small and finnicky.

Davits in, according to the book cover painting. They look very far apart for a small ship's boat. BTW, if there is a boat on the davits, would there also be a boat amidships?
You'll notice, also, that I've started installing rigged cannons. No training tackle. As Ron Neilson (hollowneck) points out: too small and finnicky.

Davits in, according to the book cover painting. They look very far apart for a small ship's boat. BTW, if there is a boat on the davits, would there also be a boat amidships?
You'll notice, also, that I've started installing rigged cannons. No training tackle. As Ron Neilson (hollowneck) points out: too small and finnicky.

Davits in, according to the book cover painting. They look very far apart for a small ship's boat. BTW, if there is a boat on the davits, would there also be a boat amidships?
You'll notice, also, that I've started installing rigged cannons. No training tackle. As Ron Neilson (hollowneck) points out: too small and finnicky.

Davits in, according to the book cover painting. They look very far apart for a small ship's boat. BTW, if there is a boat on the davits, would there also be a boat amidships?
You'll notice, also, that I've started installing rigged cannons. No training tackle. As Ron Neilson (hollowneck) points out: too small and finnicky.

Davits in, according to the book cover painting. They look very far apart for a small ship's boat. BTW, if there is a boat on the davits, would there also be a boat amidships?
You'll notice, also, that I've started installing rigged cannons. No training tackle. As Ron Neilson (hollowneck) points out: too small and finnicky.

Davits in, according to the book cover painting. They look very far apart for a small ship's boat. BTW, if there is a boat on the davits, would there also be a boat amidships?
You'll notice, also, that I've started installing rigged cannons. No training tackle. As Ron Neilson (hollowneck) points out: too small and finnicky.

Hi Chuck
Loving looking at this but the timber, probable cost and skills needed terrify me. It isn't hard to see why England ran out of trees! The amount of wood needed for thousands of ships. Speedwell is a beauty and I might just buy the Seawatch books to admire the skill in small scale replication. A beautiful model!
 
A separate issue for Strelok and hopefully not to divert this log;
The imperial to metric scale conversion also drove me nuts. My equation is now simple:
1/4" to a foot = 1 divided by 4 = 12 divided by 0.25 = 1/48
3/32" to a foot = 3 divided by 32 = 12 divided by 0.09375 = 1/128
1/16" to a foot = 1 divided by 16 = 12 divided by 0.0625 = 1/192
Etc; etc...
 
Cheers
A

From stern lanterns to ships’ boats to huge frigates, you certainly succeed at your goal. When you have a vision, you are unstoppable!

From stern lanterns to ships’ boats to huge frigates, you certainly succeed at your goal. When you have a vision, you are unstoppable!

Rumors confirmed: Syren Ship Models to produce Millenium Falcon kit in Alaskan yellow cedar. 
 
Future plans for boxwood Death Star in 3/32 scale uncertain. 

Yes, Rusty. I totally agree. This is something I've been saying all along. Laser cutting is just the first step. Afterwards, much care is needed in order to get results like the ones seen in Chuck's builds. Care and Patience will always yield a better result.