lamarvalley

Thanks Keith, no, I don't think it ever stops...  The canoe looks brilliant! (even before Al got in the act... )
Thanks, Dee Dee, I am very glad that you mentioned the fish wells, as those have been puzzling me.  The ergonomics of putting in and removing fiesty lobsters from the kit hatch locations seems a bit sketchy, as they are very narrow and far forward of the workspace.  They also seem like they would impede headroom for the bunk in the cuddy.  I have heard the wells referred to as "pyramid-shaped", and the single well in Chapelle's Friendship sloop drawing seems to bear that out.  It seems that Midwest may have taken that hatch real estate and simply bisected it with the centerboard trunk...
I have attached a rough sketch calling out some of my detail questions, I am very much looking forward to your build pictures!

just a word from themadchemist on CA
 
Yes CA is cyano-acrylate. which is a cyanide derivative. Cyanide is an ion and its form we typically think of in spy movies is HCN (hydrogen cyanide) although common salts are also probable KCN or NaCN (potassium and sodium, BTW the K is for Kalium and the Na for Natrium, Latin). CA is a molecule made with a cyano group so its pretty stable. I dont recommend heating cyano compounds though...
 
The issue is the molecule. The CA molecule is a monomer which polymerizes upon contact with water (amino acids are monomers that form the polymer called protein). As CA has a low flash point it becomes volatilized easily and air borne. Always work in an open area and have a fan blowing across the work area to remove fumes. The problem with CA is that the mucus linings of the eyes and nasal cavities are super moist and cause the fumes to polymerize. These form and set up glue in your sensitive body parts. 
 
FYI, CA is used in forensics in a process called fuming. It works really well in small spaces like a car. Pour a bottle of CA into a soda bottle cap and close in a car. Anywhere there is human fingerprints the CA will be draw and Prints form out of nothing as the CA sticks to the skin oils left behind.
 
The thicker formulas are made by adding silica to the mix.
 
Kester, sorry to hear of the ME/CFS. I too after a tick bite and confirmed lyme and bartonella infection have been cased down that hole called auto-immune disease. ME/CFS/FM or what ever else they want to name it, I personally think its bacterial.... It does cause a huge immune response to lots of things. We completely removed plastic from any food contact when possible as the plasticizers (phthalates) are big time immuno disruptors. NEVER microwave any food with plastic.

I hope this morning finds you well Robbyn as we have seen numerous responses as a call to aid for your plight we haven't heard from YOU!
 
I have a tad of knowledge about allergic reactions and one thing is that if you have an allergic reaction your body reacts by producing histamines from mast cells. Allergies are strange in that the body jumps to the defense against a perceived enemy... (i.e.-a peanut is not deadly unless your body sees it as such). Some things have naturally occurring histamines, red wine for instance, and during a full blown reaction the body makes it itself. Histamine increases capillary permeability and thus the swelling. Antihistamines can reverse that to some degree... and unless it is a severe reaction, (see ER) time will lessen the uncomfortable symptoms.
Aside from all the advise of avoidance or protective gear (all good IMO)... one simple non-chemical thing that might prove helpful is simple saline flushes... sterile saline flushed into the nasal passages would help remove the chemical molecules and sooth the membranes. Personally, I hate nasal flushes but damn it, they do work... for me.

I hope this morning finds you well Robbyn as we have seen numerous responses as a call to aid for your plight we haven't heard from YOU!
 
I have a tad of knowledge about allergic reactions and one thing is that if you have an allergic reaction your body reacts by producing histamines from mast cells. Allergies are strange in that the body jumps to the defense against a perceived enemy... (i.e.-a peanut is not deadly unless your body sees it as such). Some things have naturally occurring histamines, red wine for instance, and during a full blown reaction the body makes it itself. Histamine increases capillary permeability and thus the swelling. Antihistamines can reverse that to some degree... and unless it is a severe reaction, (see ER) time will lessen the uncomfortable symptoms.
Aside from all the advise of avoidance or protective gear (all good IMO)... one simple non-chemical thing that might prove helpful is simple saline flushes... sterile saline flushed into the nasal passages would help remove the chemical molecules and sooth the membranes. Personally, I hate nasal flushes but damn it, they do work... for me.

I am fortunate in that glues and resins don't seem to have an effect.  But certain wood dust, particularly spruce and pine really get to me.  I see Buck mentioned this possibility.
 
Having worked in, and supervised,  chemistry laboratories for many years I can tell you that you should always know what you are working with and the possible effects to yourself and others in the area.

only belgian beer on an american icon... yeah, that'll work

Someone might find this useful
 
http://www.animatedknots.com/knotlist.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
 

for anyone interested
 
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-hampshire-22337881
 

"SUBMARINE 5 DAYS DISABLED REACHES HILO 

With Fuel Exhausted Diver Rigged Sails From Mattresses and Canvas.


Rigged out with jurymasts built of steel bunk rods and(missing text) sails made out of Mattre (missing text) and canvas hammocks (missing text) Submarine (missing text) arrived at Hilo yesterday afternoon out of oil but still with electrical power in her storage batteries. As a cross between a three masted windjammer and an undersea boat she made a weird appearance. 

The R-14 was one of a flotilla of submarines sent out to search for the missing navy tug Conestoga, long overdue here from San Diego and virually given up for lost. In turn she herself has been on the missing list for the last five days. 


Reserve Tanks Empty

On the night of May 10 in lat. 18 north, logitude 153.33 her fuel oil gave out it was found out that the reserve tanks when called on were empty. Lieut. A. D. Douglas, in command, sent out a general wireless call, which Rear Admiral Shoemaker, commandant of the Pearl Harbor Naval station, said today had been received by the R-12 and relayed to Pearl Harbor. But no answer was ever recieved by the R-14. Lieutenant Douglas today told the Star-Bulletin's correspondent at Hilo that he was unable to account forthe reserve fuel tank being empty and could not understand why his call for help had not been answered. The sub carried 10,000 gallons of fuel when she left Pearl Harbor. 

Not knowing whether his call for help had been heard or not the commander of the helpless submarine rigged two jurymasts and with thier aid and that of the wireless mast managed to spread enough canvas to make headway toward land. On the slow voyage to Hilo he sighted the Matson liner Enterprise and mistook her for a SHIPOP bringing succor, but no other vessels were seen. 


Food Supply Low


Within five miles of Hilo the storage batteries were switched on and the R-14 rounded the breakwater and came into port on her own power. She had left only suficient rice and bully beef to last her crew of 27 men and two officers four days more. 

This morning the R-12 also arrived at Hilo to give the R-14 fuel. Informed by the Star-Bulletin this morning that the R-14 was at Hilo, Rear Adimeral Shoemaker said he had been expecting news of her arrival there at any moment. No anxiety had been felt, he said, because from her reported position it was evident that she would have enough power left in her storage batteries to make Hilo. The power he supposed, had been held in reserve in case the vessel got into difficulties on a lee shore and needed it to work into safe water again. Why the reserve tank was empty he did not know." 

 

On 1 May 1921 USS R-14 (SS-91) Runs out of fuel at sea. Makes port with makeshift sails of sheets, underway on sail power for 4 days.
 
 

Pintles
 
I made the rudder Pintles from 1.6mm thick brass sheet. First I milled most of the inside, leaving a thin piece at the bottom for strength while the rest of the work was carried out :
 

 
Then I cut each piece from the main sheet, sanded the angle at the fore end on the disc sander and drilled the holes for the Pins and bolts :
 

 
I filed out the thin centre and silver-soldered in the Pins :
 


 
Next job was to mill the rebates for the straps and recess the fore ends. For a Mill Cutter I ground the point of a 1.6mm drill flat - perfect tiny cutter (note - I only left a very short piece protruding from the chuck so it wouldn't snap off). The last two pics are of a dry-fitted pintle :
 



 
Then I lightly blackened them to simulate bronze :
 

 
And finally another dry-fit :
 



 
  Danny

as long as they dont bite the pilots . remember anything here in oz is poisonois

I too am in the midst of the AL San Francisco. It is a fine ship but it does have its issues just as Shaz said. I like this ship a lot however and it is one of the biggest reasons I chose it over dozens and dozens of other possibilities. Like the first two respondents said, go with your interests first... and I'll add one more criteria to consider... challenge yourself beyond where you think you are skill-wise... that makes it even more fun!

I too am in the midst of the AL San Francisco. It is a fine ship but it does have its issues just as Shaz said. I like this ship a lot however and it is one of the biggest reasons I chose it over dozens and dozens of other possibilities. Like the first two respondents said, go with your interests first... and I'll add one more criteria to consider... challenge yourself beyond where you think you are skill-wise... that makes it even more fun!

Lamar,
 
Thanks, this is really interesting.  In my experience I have read both sides that it is a fictitious ship and it is a real ship.  Seems like this person really did thier homework.
 
-Aaron

It, of course, badly, but on the other hand it forces to think and look for the solution of problems and riddles of kits. And it promotes professional development of modellers   . Paradox    !

Okay, I see it now that it is highlighted in yellow but before... nope. Can you fix it, should you fix it or can you live with it? You've done such an exceptional build it seems a shame to alter it. I'm with Augie, it flows as it is.

Horror! Shock!  Danny took a short cut with the rudder tabling!    
 
John

I'm not sure, IMO, that they need to be of the same grain or width as the hull since I would think they would be a different material or a later production if this were a full size vessel. Consider what it would look like if making them contrast rather than blend. What would it look like if it were ebony? With that nice brass hinge... mmm, could be nice!
Then you could edge glue planks into a long single piece and cut them to the size of holes ~ 10x10mm?
 
Don't get me wrong... I love your wooden hatch cover..and I wish I'd have thought of it and if you want to match plank for plank... hats off and cheers to you but yikes, you're right, that's a profanity laced adventure if ever there was one.
 
I used a product called Brass Black.... I got it a gun shop and it is used to touch up the "blue' on firearms. Toxic and acidic but effective. Wear gloves and eyewear and don't swallow it and it'll go fine..

Bedford, I bow to your soldering experience fore it far exceeds mine but I always thought flux was a necessity...my solder is called 'grade 60/40 solid... is that a resin core? Would it say it on the roll?
Not quibbling, just asking... you know... learn something new everyday... use it in every way...

The hull looks fantastic.  And I like your modifications.  The doors look great and the hinges are masterpieces!  Thank you for the set of hinges that you mailed to me... you say they'll be here shortly, hey
 
Wolf

I never mind a question, hell, I have asked thousands !!
If your solder says "solid" then it is not resin cored and you would need flux. Personally I would consign it to Davey Jones' Locker and buy some resin cored.
 
Resin cored will say "resin cored" and if it is an old roll and you can't read the label then pull on the end, stretch it until it breaks. You should be able to see the resin cores. There are normally a few cores that are like veins running through the length of the solder. It is brown so easy to see. If not sure then heat up the iron and melt some solder, the resin will become apparent as a brown fluid around the solder.

My first attempt at soldering was a disaster. It was one of the reasons I bought so much tube and bar... quite a few mistakes. What ended up working for me was basically 3 things... flux on both pieces, a jig that held everything in place before i hit it with heat, and quick high heat. That way nothing moved except the placement of the solder. In any case, your oar mounts are better than what you would have had if you "followed directions"

I'm new to this hobby so I can't speak to the cost aspect of scratch versus kit. I would think that a kit would be cheaper in the long run but that would probably vary from kit to kit, maker to maker etc. Like you said, there are plenty of places for good lumber but the little stuff, scrollwork and such is harder to acquire. You don't say if you are in the US but some woodworking stores, Rockler for instance, sell pre-made scroll work which might do with a tweak here and an alteration there.
Also, if you're doing a scratch build but it is a kit already produced maybe, almost certainly for a price, maybe you could buy figureheads and the like from the maker. I know some do sell replacement parts due to breakage and/or lost/missing parts from the kits.
Bottom line, IMO, if you're confident and ready to do a scratch build don't left the little stuff stop you. Scratch builders seem to find a way around every issue... these pages are full of such innovation.
 
Good luck
 
Randy

My first attempt at soldering was a disaster. It was one of the reasons I bought so much tube and bar... quite a few mistakes. What ended up working for me was basically 3 things... flux on both pieces, a jig that held everything in place before i hit it with heat, and quick high heat. That way nothing moved except the placement of the solder. In any case, your oar mounts are better than what you would have had if you "followed directions"