Mike Dowling
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Mike Dowling got a reaction from Mark m in Finding miniature bolts
Try prime-minatures.co.uk they do tiny nots and bolts.
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Mike Dowling got a reaction from Dave_E in HMS Beagle by Clementine - OcCre - 1:60 Scale
I absolutely agree about the glue. I have always used pva with maybe a dab of ca at the bow just to hold it. Contact glue is ghastly stuff! Always goes where you don't want it and a real problem to remove. My six penny contribution for what it's worth.
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Mike Dowling reacted to allanyed in HMS Beagle by Clementine - OcCre - 1:60 Scale
I respectfully disagree with Techtonic regarding glue. First, to many members "quicker" is an oxymoron to shipmodeling. If speed is a criteria, ship modeling is not a good hobby to pursue.
From an article by the Oakwood Veneer Company.
Using contact cement to adhere raw wood is a complete failure waiting to happen for numerous reasons. Do not do it. Contact cement is more suited for use with synthetic laminates, like Formica. It is best to use a two-part resin or PVA glue adhesive when working with raw wood.
For me, epoxy resin is over the top for wood to wood, but PVA has a long track record for use with wood. If the planking is spiled or otherwise tapered and shaped, finger pressure on the plank with PVA for 30 seconds will work. If the plank is being slightly forced into place, PVA and a clamp of some sort for a few minutes will work. If a lot of force is necessary, the plank has is not properly shaped. Depending on what is important to you, study the planking tutorials here at MSW that will yield beautifully laid planking where every plank ends at the rabbet as they should, not coming to a point short of the rabbet.
Allan
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Mike Dowling reacted to fifthace in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
Howdi,
I've made a little progress with this. Some work at the bow, and made the various hatches on deck, and finally made, fitted and rigged the cannons.
The blocks are a little oversized, they were all I had to hand as the kit doesn't provide to rig them fully.
Thanks
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Mike Dowling reacted to fifthace in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
Hiya folks,
Very quick update on this.
I decided I agreed with Gregory and went about fixing the stern decorations. Initially I tried thinning down the kit ones but it became clear very quickly that wasn't going to work, and they were too short anyway.
So I made my own from some scraps of wood and did my best to hand paint the swirls. I am absolutely appalling at brush painting by hand so these didn't turn out amazing, but I think overall they look ok.
I also went back to the kit gallery windows, which now need some touching up.
In between all of this, I got the rudder rigging into place.
Thanks
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Mike Dowling reacted to fifthace in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
Good evening.
I've made a little progress with this over the last week.
Added:
Bulwark frames.
Stern windows and decoration.
Side galleries (I decided I didn't like the castings that came with the kit so I fashioned my own. Not amazing but I prefer them better than the kit ones).
Grating hatches.
Fitted the rudder.
That's all for now, thanks.
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Mike Dowling reacted to fifthace in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
Morning folks.
Small update. Well smallish. Rear bulwark patterns fitted and planked inside and out. Stern gallery pattern fitted and painted. I was going to plank this as well, but decided against it. And the rear trim/combings (not sure their term) fitted and blended to match the angle of the stern pattern. I was able to get this to look much better than my previous attempt where it just look stuck on as an afterthought, this time it looks like part of the ship. I also lined the gunports and the exposed leading edge of the bulwark.
Thanks
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Mike Dowling got a reaction from fifthace in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
Very good, you certainly have not lost your touch!
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Mike Dowling got a reaction from Dave_E in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
Very good, you certainly have not lost your touch!
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Mike Dowling reacted to fifthace in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
Update:
I decided in the end to go with a white hull rather than copper it, although that remains an option for the moment. I had a battle with the white. For some reason I had half a dozen individual planks on each side seeming to leach colour through, despite being sealed beforehand. After a few coats of white I decided to use an automotive grey primer first and voila! No more leaching.
Well, until I started with the white again anyway and there it was, old friend came back. In the end it took 6 light coats with an airbrush to get it to cover properly.
I managed to get the main wale into the right place this time, although the yellow ochre trim has ended up slightly lower at the stern on one side, but nothing I can't fix later.
I stained the upper section with walnut as the colour had faded with all the sanding and it was very light beige.
Just a couple of minor waterline issues to fix at the bow.
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Mike Dowling reacted to fifthace in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
Hello.
Very quick update. Second planking is finished, now time to sand it and try and make it look like I didn't do such a half assed job on it haha.
2 Drops at the bow, 3 at the stern.
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Mike Dowling reacted to fifthace in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
Morning.
I've made a start on the second planking. Had a few issues with things I forgot to do/didn't know how to do, but thanks to some help on here I think I am back on course.
Garboard was too far forward. I didn't know how to edge bend planks (which I now do). Not the greatest job in the world compared to some who have been doing this for years, but certainly an improvement for me.
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Mike Dowling reacted to Katsumoto in Cazador Jabeque / Xebec by Katsumoto - FINISHED -OcCre - 1:60
Chapter 15 - Woodcarving continues part 4
Hi guys,
Ouch, I was searching for my log....it was on the third page. Guess a new update is in order. 😛
I had some obligations towards my family and I was occupied by my job, so you had to wait for this update. Thank you for your patience. You guys are rocking it with all the new posts in your logs. Keep it going!
In this update I'll continue with some carving elements on the side of the ship. I made a new design for the frames around the gunports. Somehow the laurel wreath didn't do it for me. Second I made the panels and third I made the carving for the back panel.
Still not done, but I'm getting there....one step at the time.....
If you're here reading my log, thank you and please leave a comment if you like.
Until next update,
Regards,
Pete -
Mike Dowling got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in L'Orenoque by Mamoli
I built this model while ago. Not sure whether it was before mamoli was taken over or not. The only criticism I had was the stantions of which there are a lot were made from a flat sheet of brass which was horrible. I bought replacements for these and was very glad I did. It would have looked dreadful otherwise.
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Mike Dowling reacted to fifthace in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
Greetings.
So, 1st planking is finished. Wasn't as much as a chore as I remember, despite me breaking just about every rule there is when it comes to planking. It's done nonetheless, and won't be visible after anyway. It's solid, smooth and the correct shape which is the main thing.
Initial planking:
After basic sanding:
And after filling and further sanding:
I also planked the transom, rather than use the walnut false piece:
And finally, I added a filler to correct Caldercraft's short cut on the false deck, so it butts up directly to the stern gallery piece:
My next task is to try and work out the correct shift pattern for the second planking. Caldercraft just says to plank in full length. I did that last time and I didn't like the result.
I am not having much luck working out what the shift pattern is however, any info would be appreciated...
Thanks
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Mike Dowling got a reaction from fifthace in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
It's not that bad!! I remember when I first started how encouraging you were to me and it's no worse than mine was.
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Mike Dowling reacted to fifthace in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
Ahhh, riiight, now I am with you.
Yes, the disc you buy are purposely made by Dremel for the ezclic system, and have a metal lug on the underside.
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Mike Dowling reacted to xodar461 in Revenge 1577 by xodar461 - FINISHED - Amati - Scale 1:64
Mike:
I think I understand what he was asking now. Based on the bulkhead slots for the bowsprit, it should come straight out from its slot in the bulkheads, basically parallel to the center line of the ship (although offset from center on the starboard side). It should not angle from right to left. When I placed the bowsprit, it was a pretty snug fit with no "play" at all.
Jeff
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Mike Dowling reacted to ObviousNewbie in Greek Bireme by ObviousNewbie - FINISHED - Amati - 1/35 - A lot of Firsts
Hi Mike,I actually used a combo of tricks: first I drew the curvature from the leftover plywood on an old cutting board, and marked it with nails to keep the plank in place. Then I found some strips of treated birchwood in the right size in the local hobby store, this birchwood was treated in such a way it could bend 180 degrees without splitting, Soaked that in hot water for an hour and carefully mounted it in the template on the cutting board:
After drying, the wales came out like this:
So the trick is to use the treated wood, NOT the wood provided in the kit. Tried that a couple of times, and they couldn't handle the ben, as you also experienced.
Hope this helps!
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Mike Dowling got a reaction from Dave_E in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
Well, greetings after a very long abscence!!! Good to find you back again. I shall be watching you!!!
What actually is the dremel sandy thingy that you have found. It look good and I might want one too.
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Mike Dowling got a reaction from AJohnson in HMAV Bounty by fifthace - Caldercraft - 1:64
Well, greetings after a very long abscence!!! Good to find you back again. I shall be watching you!!!
What actually is the dremel sandy thingy that you have found. It look good and I might want one too.
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Mike Dowling reacted to wefalck in Annealing
Cast metal in most cases does not need to be annealed, because the cooling process is so slow that the metal atoms have time to disorder themselves.
Having said that, non-ferrous metals cannot be hardened by heating. Therefore, what you find in a cast piece is usually the softest state. Non-ferrous metals work-harden by beating or rolling. Anealing softens them.
I suspect that the cast piece you are referring to is white metal, an alloy containing inter alia lead, zinc, and bismuth. Compared to the pure metals it is quite hard and has a low melting point (which is why it used for such castings). Also, the temperature range for the transition from the solid to the liquid state is quite narrow, so rather than becoming soft as many other metals, it quickly melts.
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Mike Dowling reacted to Roger Pellett in Annealing
When I’m not working on a ship model project, I like to paint lead soldiers. In this case, “lead” is an all inclusive term for white metal similar to that used in ship model kits. As the kits for these soldiers are produced by small businesses that do not last long, the best source is EBay. This means that the castings range in age from recent to the 1960’s.
The older castings have a high lead content and are usually quite ductile; arms, legs, guns, etc. are easily bent without damage. The newer castings made from Lead Free Pewter are noticeably harder and less ductile. I would not try to bend these. I also agree that applying heat is a bad idea. The melting point of these Pewter alloys can be much less than that of pure lead.
Roger
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Mike Dowling got a reaction from thibaultron in Annealing
Does anyone have any experience or know how you can anneal castings ? I am thinking particularly of the metal that goes from the bow of the ship and curves to the hull.
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