ChrisLBren

Looks great Greg - will be following along

Looks great Greg - will be following along

Hi All
 
Another update from me - before the nailing I decided to have a go at the waterway first.  So here's the first part of my journey trying to make the waterway around the bow.
 
My first effort went in the bin!  I made two pieces that fitted very nicely around the hawse timbers but I made them too narrow.  Here's a picture of the plans and how I made my error.  I used the measurement "A" which completely failed to take into account the thickness of the planking that sits above it.
 
Below - The binned parts and the incorrect measurement that I used.
 



So after a quick message to Gerard Delacroix I got back onto the right track and realised that due to the camber of the pieces I needed to take my measurements from the underside to get the correct thickness.  So I made the same pieces again but left them much wider.  I first fitted the outside to the hull and then placed my templates on the underside to get the correct thickness (I hope this makes sense)
 



It was only then that I sanded the inside of the parts to shape and this worked quite well.  Next I needed to cut the matching dovetails so that they fitted to the beams.  I couldn't get a pencil in to mark them so I used the plans instead.  I placed the parts onto photocopy so that I could see how the beams lined up.  I then cut out the dovetail templates and glued them onto the waterway parts.  All of the templates are upside down as if you are looking through the part.

Now this may seem a bit extreme but I couldn't see the point of going to loads of trouble to make the dovetails on the beams of the waterway parts did not fit tightly. Next I milled out the dovetails.
 


It was all worth it as I got a very nice fit.
 


Next I marked out and sanded the bevel into the face of the parts and this is the result
 




They should be ok once clamped and glued permanently but I have to say these are not easy parts to make and get a good fit.
 
I've got to do some decorating at home now for the next couple of weeks so I'll get some more up on the build when I can
 
Cheers Mark
 
 

mounting the rudder:

Looks fantastic Rusty - love the all pear look - very elegant.  Congrats !!!!!

Do to too much RL, it's been slow going.   But here's an update.   I've finished "stocking the fore deck and the aft deck and added the timberheads and to the aftdeck, the railings also.   I'm showing her with stubmasts as there's no place to do full masting and rigging and then have a place to display her.  At least this way, I can have a proper display. 
 
Still a ways to go yet with the works/carvings around the bow, the stern lights, etc.
 

All of the frames that sit directly on the keel, 8 - 45, are finished and the built-up bow frames are roughed in. It was nice that the frames 1 - 7 fit very nicely in the building jig and required very little adjusting of the slots in the jig for a good fit. Now to get the aft frames 46 - 53 installed.  I didn't get a picture of frames 27 - 45 installed so next update will have all the frames shown.
 
 

I bought the JET and am very happy - now I have an entire array of saws without having to change any blades - the mini Preac, Jim Byrnes table saw, Dewalt Scroll 788, JET 10 inch Bandsaw and Dewalt 10 Inch Table Saw all suited to their various purposes in the shop.  Fingers crossed I can focus on model building vs honey dos around the house !!!!!

Spritsail yard.

Thanks John - the instructions that came with the JET are crap - but I have almost assembled it and will check out this video.  It feels more solid than the competitors - once I have it built I will share a review.  

Thanks John - the instructions that came with the JET are crap - but I have almost assembled it and will check out this video.  It feels more solid than the competitors - once I have it built I will share a review.  

I bought the JET and am very happy - now I have an entire array of saws without having to change any blades - the mini Preac, Jim Byrnes table saw, Dewalt Scroll 788, JET 10 inch Bandsaw and Dewalt 10 Inch Table Saw all suited to their various purposes in the shop.  Fingers crossed I can focus on model building vs honey dos around the house !!!!!

Honestly I dont want to spend an additional 600 dollars for the 14 inch Grizzly.  From examining both machines the JET feels more solid - better fence and table than the Rikon and for my purposes of cutting 1 inch hardwood and under - it should be up for the job.  I am not resawing.  I think the key here is setting up the saw properly with the right blade.  

I will probably purchase the JET - it has the HP I need, a solid stand and a good fence. 
 
I am not a golfer - they will spend 100s on a club for certain situations during the game.  For me having the right tool and not having to adapt one that's not suited makes a lot of sense.

Thanks for the responses.  I already own a Dewalt 788 Scroll Saw (great for curves) along with a Byrnes Saw (and his other tools) and have a with a fully equipped shop including two mills (Proxxon and Taig) a Unimat Lathe and various sanders - thickness and oscillating etc.  I am about to start on a fully framed build in 1/36 and want a saw that does not stall making precise straight cuts in 1/2 - 1 inch hardwood that is safe and handy (unlike my full size Dewalt 10 inch circular saw) which is a scary beast.  
 
It would be great to have the ability to  handle other household jobs (shelves for the wife and wainscotting etc) but accuracy for my ship modeling with a solid fence is most important.  

Hey Group,
I am finally about to buy a bandsaw - keep in mind I have my cabinet maker cuts my wood to spec - so I am not cutting more than 1 inch thick nor am I resawing.  I have narrowed it down to these two models - both under 600 dollars.  I do like the flexibility of the Jet for other non ship building projects and the 1/2 HP with a solid fence.   However the Rikon has less horsepower with 1/3 HP but  is 200 dollars cheaper.  It does  get better reviews though.  Any feedback is appreciated.
 
Jet® JWB-10 Open Stand 10'' Bandsaw | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
 
RIKON 10-305 Bandsaw With Fence, 10-Inch - Power Band Saws - Amazon.com

I will probably purchase the JET - it has the HP I need, a solid stand and a good fence. 
 
I am not a golfer - they will spend 100s on a club for certain situations during the game.  For me having the right tool and not having to adapt one that's not suited makes a lot of sense.

I bought the JET and am very happy - now I have an entire array of saws without having to change any blades - the mini Preac, Jim Byrnes table saw, Dewalt Scroll 788, JET 10 inch Bandsaw and Dewalt 10 Inch Table Saw all suited to their various purposes in the shop.  Fingers crossed I can focus on model building vs honey dos around the house !!!!!

I bought the JET and am very happy - now I have an entire array of saws without having to change any blades - the mini Preac, Jim Byrnes table saw, Dewalt Scroll 788, JET 10 inch Bandsaw and Dewalt 10 Inch Table Saw all suited to their various purposes in the shop.  Fingers crossed I can focus on model building vs honey dos around the house !!!!!

Honestly I dont want to spend an additional 600 dollars for the 14 inch Grizzly.  From examining both machines the JET feels more solid - better fence and table than the Rikon and for my purposes of cutting 1 inch hardwood and under - it should be up for the job.  I am not resawing.  I think the key here is setting up the saw properly with the right blade.  

I will probably purchase the JET - it has the HP I need, a solid stand and a good fence. 
 
I am not a golfer - they will spend 100s on a club for certain situations during the game.  For me having the right tool and not having to adapt one that's not suited makes a lot of sense.

Thanks for the responses.  I already own a Dewalt 788 Scroll Saw (great for curves) along with a Byrnes Saw (and his other tools) and have a with a fully equipped shop including two mills (Proxxon and Taig) a Unimat Lathe and various sanders - thickness and oscillating etc.  I am about to start on a fully framed build in 1/36 and want a saw that does not stall making precise straight cuts in 1/2 - 1 inch hardwood that is safe and handy (unlike my full size Dewalt 10 inch circular saw) which is a scary beast.  
 
It would be great to have the ability to  handle other household jobs (shelves for the wife and wainscotting etc) but accuracy for my ship modeling with a solid fence is most important.  

Honestly I dont want to spend an additional 600 dollars for the 14 inch Grizzly.  From examining both machines the JET feels more solid - better fence and table than the Rikon and for my purposes of cutting 1 inch hardwood and under - it should be up for the job.  I am not resawing.  I think the key here is setting up the saw properly with the right blade.  

Honestly I dont want to spend an additional 600 dollars for the 14 inch Grizzly.  From examining both machines the JET feels more solid - better fence and table than the Rikon and for my purposes of cutting 1 inch hardwood and under - it should be up for the job.  I am not resawing.  I think the key here is setting up the saw properly with the right blade.