usedtosail
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So I tried making the spit arms from brass sheet but I gave up on that because I could not make the hooks look the same. I then decided to try making them out of wood. I started with a square piece of boxwood that I milled a slot down one side. I then filed and sanded the other side into a curve. I cut off 1/16" slices with a slitting disk on the Byrnes saw to make the hooks. I cut the arms themselves in two pieces each from a 1/16" strip of boxwood on the scroll saw and filed them to shape. I glued the two halves together and cleaned up the joint. I also milled a slot into the other end of the square strip and cut off two piece for the brackets to hold the arms to the stove. I covered the back of the brackets with a small piece of wood to offset them from the sides of the stove to clear the brass on the sides of the stove. I then glued four hooks to each arm, making sure they were the same on each arm. I used medium CA to glue them on. The next step will be to paint these all black then glue them to the stove.
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I glued the upper wales to both sides of the hull using medium CA. I started at the bow and worked my way back to the stern gluing a few inches each time. I trimmed the aft end of the wales just before I glued the last couple of inches to fit nicely into the window trim. I then touched up the black paint on the wales. I have the lower wales painted and will glue them on tomorrow.
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I gave the stove a few more coats of black paint but with the stove on its side so I could get underneath the doors and inside the openings at the ends. Here are the components I am working on at this time, including the drip pan (under the weight), the lifting bolts, condenser with all trim added, and the stove itself. The next step will be to make the support arms for the spit, which I will make from sheet brass. I am also still working on the design for the spit rotating mechanism. I just received this thinner chain (on the left) that I may use instead of the thicker drive chain (on the right). The thinner chain will fit into pulley wheels better which I think is more authentic than the gears.
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The upper wales were soaked and bent to the hull. After soaking I used my electric plank bender to put the bow curve in, then clamped them to the hull to dry. Clamping was a bit of a challenge but I improvised as you see below with the lower wales. I ended and painted the upper wales black then soaked and bent the lower wales to the hull in the same way. I have marked the hull for the upper wales so after the lower wales dry I can glue the uppers on.
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The window trim is attached on both sides now and I touched up the black paint on it. I also painted inside the three large windows with black paint, and touched up the blue paint a bit. Next step is to soak and clamp the upper wales to the hull to bend them.
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I gave the stove a couple of coats of black acrylic paint. I am using a Badger spray gun set that I bought a few years ago but never used it. It is provided with hardware to hook up to an aerosol can of air, but I put an adapter on it so I can use it with a small air brush compressor. It really worked well, much better than trying to use an air brush with a needle for this job. No clogs and easy clean up too. While that was drying I started making the drip pan. I also blackened large eye bolts and added rings to them for the lifting rings. I then turned the handle for the condenser on the lathe, from a solid piece of brass. I was going to turn the top and use some brass rod for the bottom but it was easier to turn it as one piece and I think it looks better too. I drilled a hole in the condenser and, since it was a tight fit, I glued the handle in with CA. I need to spray the stove from underneath tomorrow. I was worried that the acrylic paint would raise the grain a lot but with the gesso primer there was little if any grain raised. I am still give the whole stove a light sanding between coats but the surfaces are looking smooth already.
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While priming the stove I have continued working on the condenser. I cut a piece of brass tubing at a 45 degree angle in a mitre box and soldered the two halves together to make the 90 degree elbow for the stove end and soldered a series of smaller tubing together for the spigot end. Here is the set up for part of the soldering using push pins in a soldering board to hold everything together. Because the turned part is a bit heavy I made a wooden plug that I can screw into stove top for the connector instead of just gluing a piece of tubing to the top. This will hold the condenser much more securely. I still need to make the parts shown at the top of the condenser as shown in the picture I am using as a guide, like the handle and vent.
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Thanks so much Gary. I really appreciate the tips and help and I think they will help me a lot.
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I finished up the small kit stove by applying some gritty black and rust red weathering powders to the stove and drip pan, then giving them a light spray of matte finish. I glued then to the display board after I gave it a coat of wipe on poly. I can now focus on the 1:16 scale stove. I gave all the brass parts that I have attached to the stove a coat of Binn primer. I also primed the grates, stack, and a piece of brass tubing for the still connector. When this dries I will give the wood a coat of diluted gesso as a primer. I starting working on the still while the primer was drying. I was thinking I would use brass tubing for all the components but then I found a piece of solid brass rod that was thick enough so that I could turn the outside piece in the lathe. I turned the head slightly so I could cut the taper into it, then drilled holes in each end for tubing to connect to it.
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After touching up the red and blue paint one more time I started gluing the port side window trim to the hull. I first used pins in two of the gun port openings to align it, then I trimmed the bow end to fit. I then glued the aft portion to the hull using wood glue and clamped it. When this is dry I'll work my way toward the bow.
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I do the same. Just make sure the hole isn't too much larger than the shaft of the eyebolt.
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All the square bolt heads are now installed on all sides. I found a piece of brass tube that is just the right size for the stack. I also made the chimney access door from a thin piece of brass sheet which I cut out with scissors and glued to the chimney. I then made the hinges and glued them onto the door. I glued the pot lids with handles to the boiler top too.
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Here is the starboard side window trim being bent to the hull. The port side came out nicely even though I had already painted it around the windows. I thought I could bend these as I glued them down but the bend was more severe than I originally thought.
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I touched up the black paint on the completed kit stove after attaching the stack. I have also started assembling the display stand that came with the kit. All that's left is the weathering. I have added the square bolt heads on one side of the large stove. I also redid the round bolt heads on the hinges and closures using Tacky glue, which seem to hold it's shape better than the medium CA I first used. I also have glued the boiler top and chimney to the top of the stove. I made handles for the pot lids from brass strip and glued them to the lids.
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Since the last update I have painted the counter with the blue paint and glued the bulwark cap pieces in place. I didn't like the look of the exposed edges at the hanses so I bent a 1/64" thick piece of basswood to fit and used thinned wood filler to cover the rest of the exposed edges and feather these areas into the caps. I have glued on the first set of bow trim and am in the process of bending the aft ends of the long window trim pieces to fit around tight to the hull.
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Thank you Gary. I am about to do something I have never attempted before - weathering - on the small stove. Based on your Stonington Dragger model, I consider you the resident expert in that field. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I have the Doc O'Briens weathering powder set and a very soft brush to work with.
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Progress on both stoves continues. On the small kit stove I have added the spit assembly which was a bit fiddly. The pulley pieces with the fake chain are very fragile and I did manage to break the chains off the small pulley, but was able to glue them back onto the pulley. A few more steps and I'll have that one finished. One the large stove I drilled the holes for the ring bolts and cut all of the square bolt heads I'll be adding around the edges. I have made the boiler top and chimney too, but they are only set in place on the stove for now. I made the boiler top out of boxwood but for the chimney I used a chunk of basswood. These will also be primed then painted black along with the rest of the stove. I'll be adding the bolt heads next.
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You have made nice clean notches for your chokes so you should not have any problems getting them to fit well.
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Thanks for the tip Allen. I have never used Liver of Sulfur but remember it from Ed's build logs. I made the decision at the beginning of the project to not blacken the brass trim pieces on the stove. I will be priming and painting them along with the rest of the stove. I may blacken the grates but I haven't made that decision yet.
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I glued the doors on and then added the hinges and latches. Here is how they look before being painted black.
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I had cut all the doors out of boxwood a while ago but now I have been experimenting with how to make the hinges. I came up with this arrangement which is a strip of brass tapered toward the end and bent around the door, cut flush with the back of the door, which I have glued to the doors before I installed them. After the doors are glued to the sides I will add a piece of brass tube with another piece of brass rod sticking out the bottom next to the brass strip. You can see them in the little cup next to the doors. The smaller doors will only have the brass tube for a hinge. I also glued a brass strip to the doors for the closures. These will have a catch glued to them and the sides which you can also see in the little cup. The small kit stove was painted black and then had the hinges glued to the doors, but with these the hinges were glued on after the doors were installed, as per the instructions. I need to paint them black now.
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Nicely done. I also will use these additional details when I get to the deck fittings. Thanks to you and Derek.
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Count me in too Gary. We are not that far from the Rangley Lakes region of Maine here in New Hampshire but I have never been over that way. I am going to have to take a drive over and check the area out.
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I made the vertical grating today using brass strips for the supports. I drilled a series of holes in three strips using the sensitive drill attachment on the mill, then sandwiched the three strips using brass rod to hole them in the vise to shape them. I used a round and some flat files to shape them all at the same time. I added the brass rod in the holes and used thin CA to hold it all together instead of soldering them. And here are both grates temporarily in place on the frame. I also have started experimenting with painting using parts from the Syren kit stove. This is a black acrylic paint which so far looks good. I think I'll tackle the doors, hinges, and door closures next.
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I painted the window trim and the pieces that fit on the bulwark tops black. I noticed that the window trim doesn't extend all the way back to the transom, which I think it should. I am not sure how I will deal with that but maybe I'll just paint the area between the trim and the transom black. I also have the counter masked off to paint it blue.
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