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usedtosail

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Everything posted by usedtosail

  1. usedtosail
    That's how good Chris' working cradle is - haha. I cleaned up the oval gun ports and the top edges of the inner and outer bulwarks. The next step in the instructions is to paint the outer bulwarks but before I do that I gave the outside and inside hull and deck a coat of wipe on poly. Painting is next.
  2. usedtosail
    Really nice work Eric. Your capstan came out great and your approach was spot on.
  3. usedtosail
    The stove construction has started but only the internal frame. I am using 1/4" birch plywood for the framing pieces. The frame is very similar to the Syren stove frame, just scaled up to 1:16 scale. Here are the frame pieces being glued up along with the kit frame pieces. The piece at the top is just a spacer so the sides will be parallel. I also ordered some weathering powder which I have not used before. Since I will be painting this all black I want to be able to make it look more like metal. I will use the kit to practice with the powder to see what I can do with it.
  4. usedtosail
    Nicely done on the bentinck shroud rigging so far Tom. That was a very enlightening discussion in my build log on lanyard colors for me. I always used tan line for them, now I only use dark brown, not black. I remember that drawing of the futtock and bentinck shrouds from the instructions and I was equally confused. I then found this image that I took of the area under the fighting top the last time I toured the actual ship, that actually shows the shrouds and how they are rigged. There are a number of thimbles and lanyards that are seized to the futtock staves. I don't think I recreated this exactly on my Connie but it was a reasonable facsimile at that scale. Hope this helps.
  5. usedtosail
    Yes this is a scratch build. I am only using the Syren kit as a prototype for the 1:16 stove. None of the kit parts will be in the final build.
  6. usedtosail
    In continuation of the 1:16 scratch built ships components, my next project will be a ships stove display, to go along with my Capstan and Ships Wheel projects. I am using a variety of sources for this, including the 1:48 stove mini-kit from Syren, and the instructions in the TFFM and Naide frigate books. I will make the bulk of the stove from wood, with brass for some of the outer features. I am hoping to use real gears and chain for the rotisserie but we will see as we get into it. I am just starting the planning for this so it may be a while before I have something to show.
  7. usedtosail
    Similar idea but I use square mailing tubes where I cut an opening in the top. Stackable and I can write what's in them on the front.
  8. usedtosail
    I fitted and glued the two forward inner bulwark pieces in place. Once I had the bow trimmed back to fit, the port side piece fit perfectly but I had to remove some material from the starboard side piece at the deck level to get the spacers to fit into the gun port openings. Even then it was a struggle to get the spacers in place after I put glue on the back of the inner piece. I need to still trim the top down a bit. Today I glued the two aft inner bulwark pieces in place. I didn't do any trimming on these as the fronts matched the forward bulwark pieces and the backs matched the aft pretty well. I did not use the spacers with these as they did not line up with the existing holes, so I do have some holes I need to fill now where the spacers would have gone. And I need to trim quite a bit off the top of the starboard side piece.
  9. usedtosail
    When I removed the weights and clamps from the fore deck, most of it was glued down well but there was a slight raised area around the fore mast hole and fore hatch opening. I couldn't get wood glue into the gaps between the deck and plywood sub-deck and I didn't want to risk using thin CA to wick between them, so I tried wicking some isopropyl alcohol between them, hoping it would soften the wood glue that was already there. I put a weight directly on that spot and when I checked it the next day it had worked. So now the fore deck is glued down so I can start fitting the inner bulwark pieces to fit the gun port openings.
  10. usedtosail
    I removed the clamps and weights and the aft deck was held down well, with no bubbles I could detect. So I sanded the fore deck edges to fit and glued it in the same way.
  11. usedtosail
    The inner bulwark pieces came out fine but they will need some work to get them to fit when the time comes. The next step is to add the two laser etched birch deck pieces. I am using these although I could have planked the decks but the laser etched plank pattern looks really good. After dry fitting the aft deck piece I brushed wood glue on the plywood under deck, placed the aft deck piece. To hold it down I used clamps around the edges and weights in the middle. When this dries I'll fit the fore deck piece and glue it in.
  12. usedtosail
    Thanks for the kind words. I had no idea the current ship has the chain plates parallel like that. I envy you Tom. Back in the day Hobie Catting in Hawaii was a dream for me that never came to pass. The cold Atlantic off New England, even in the Summer, was just not the same, but we had a blast anyway. As for rigging, I always set up the shrouds first so that the masts are stabilized before adding the running rigging. I put my masts in slightly larger holes in the decks then use the shrouds to set the mast angle and center them side to side. I wouldn't want to try tightening running rigging with the masts flopping around. But that's just how I do it. I add the running rigging with long tweezers through and around the shrouds, which is a pain sometimes. I know some builders add the running rigging to the masts and yards before they add them to the model so that at least you have one end secured off the model. I have tried that but don't like trying to keep all those lines untangled, even if I coil them until I need them. I am also able to do seizings in mid air which makes adding running rigging lines to masts and yards after they are installed a little easier for me.
  13. usedtosail
    I finished sanding both sides of the hull after using a little more of the sawdust in diluted wood glue in the gaps. I finished with 400 grit sandpaper and wiped the hull down with a tack cloth. I then removed the bulwark supports and extensions. I used a chisel to remove the extensions at the deck level then finished up with files and sandpaper. The inner bulwark pieces are soaking in hot water and I will clamp them to the bulwarks next to curve and dry.
  14. usedtosail
    Nice job with the chain plates Tom. They are a bit tricky. One thing to consider is that they should not be perpendicular to the waterline or parallel to each other, but they should follow the line of the shroud that is attached to each one, so they angle to the mast increases the further away from the mast the chain plate is. On the cross section the difference to what you have is probably pretty minor but something to keep in mind for future models.
  15. usedtosail
    I have been slowly sanding the second planking but we finally got a good snow storm last week and I have also spent a lot of time playing in it - skiing and snowmobiling mostly. I saved the saw dust from the rough sanding and made a thin paste with it to fill the gaps in the planking. I then sanded down the starboard side with medium and fine sandpaper. I was a little concerned with the color of the filler so I wiped a section with a tack cloth and rubbed on some wipe on poly. I was very pleased with the test section. I now will sand down the port side and probably will have to do a little more filling before the final sanding. I am now pretty sure I will leave the hull clear below the waterline instead of painting it white.
  16. usedtosail
    Great start Chief.
  17. usedtosail
    Extremely well done, Grant. I am glad to be of help.
  18. usedtosail
    Very nice upgrades Derek. I will remember these when I get to make these bitts.
  19. usedtosail
    Those ebony rings look fantastic, Grant. I like the way you fabricated them too.
  20. usedtosail
    I finished the second planking today, although I have only started sanding the upper planks. I also have some small gaps to fill. I was very happy with the fit of the final row of planks. I always have a hard time filling that last gap neatly. You can see I used some wider plank material near the keel but that area doesn't show much. It feels good to get the planking installed even if it is not sanded and finished yet.
  21. usedtosail
    I am getting close to completing the second planking. I currently have three rows left which includes the garboard strakes. I have again adjusted the widths of the final planks so that I don't end up with very thin sections of some planks. I cut 5 mm width planks from the edges of the 1mm laser cut pear sheets which I am using for the middle sections. I had to replace my plank bender (again) but since I bought the original many years ago I replace them with regular soldering irons that have exchangeable tips and use the large round tip from the original plank bender. Works great. Not much bending at the bow needed now but still mostly edge bending.
  22. usedtosail
    Great work so far. Your joints are very nice.
  23. usedtosail
    Its been a long time since I built this kit but for most kits you should be able to measure the angles of the masts to the deck or waterline from the plans. As for the sizes I am pretty sure Model Expo includes scale drawings of the masts in the rigging plan. Maybe you are missing those plans? If so, send me a PM and I'll see what I can do, as I still have the plans.
  24. usedtosail
    I remeasured the remaining distances at each bulkhead and adjusted the plank widths slightly going forward. I added the next row of plank sections using the new widths and all went well . Happy New Year everyone.
  25. usedtosail
    I was having troubles getting the right bend or bends on the next plank bow sections so I went back to first principals. Edge bending is really just spilling (spileing?) without using wider wood strips. To get the shape of a spiled plank you use clear tape to trace the edge of the previous plank, so that's what I did. I then edge bent to that curve and the plank section fit nicely. I now have ten rows of planks so I think I will check the remaining space and recalculate the remaining plank widths.

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