usedtosail

You can also go to the Google maps page and look at the stove from different angles:
 
https://www.google.com/maps/@42.372429,-71.056398,3a,75y,320.17h,95.15t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1s6yRcVEMl1hYAAAQZLBJ9aQ!2e0!3e2!7i13312!8i6656

You can also go to the Google maps page and look at the stove from different angles:
 
https://www.google.com/maps/@42.372429,-71.056398,3a,75y,320.17h,95.15t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1s6yRcVEMl1hYAAAQZLBJ9aQ!2e0!3e2!7i13312!8i6656

Thanks for the heads up Bob. One of the reasons I haven't gone yet is that Salem is one of those places that is a b***h to get in and out of, any time of year. But you are right about the summer and October. Early Fall might just work fine.

My problem with plastic has always been getting glue where it isn't supposed to be. Much harder to deal with than cleaning glue off wood, I think. But hten again, it has been probably 45 years since I built a plastic model 

Yep, that is perfect Dan. Thank you very much. And for once, I don't have to remake something.

Thanks JS. I am going one further than pins - I have added wooden strips that will support the deck planks and will drill holes for the posts in these support pieces, glue in the rail to the supports, then plank around the posts. I was concerned that even with pins these small posts might pull out.

Thanks Tim, Dan, George, and Jay, and the likes.
 
Jay, the plans I am using show the rail in relation to the main mast, so I can locate it from that. Of course, if the main mast location has moved since 1812 it won't be exactly right.
 

 
One more shot of the rail after some more work. I sanded the two lower rails so they are thinner now and match better. I also sanded down the tops of the posts so they are almost flush with the top rail. I didn't want to break anything so I stopped sanding when I got close. I also installed the sheaves between the two bottom rails. I used a strip of wood that I ran through the table saw on both sides to make a groove, then cut off squares and used a thin file to continue the groove around to the other two sides, to simulate a round piece between two square pieces. This picture is actually a little too close to see them clearly. I don't think I'll be running any lines through these as they are kind of fragile and the holes are pretty small.
 

 
I can now stain the fore and main pin rails, mount what I can and get ready to plank the spar deck. There is a support for the spencer mast at the mizzen that I need to make too. I can leave the spider rail for the mizzen until I make that mast since it does not attach to the deck.

Thanks for the heads up Bob. One of the reasons I haven't gone yet is that Salem is one of those places that is a b***h to get in and out of, any time of year. But you are right about the summer and October. Early Fall might just work fine.

Tom -
 
If you plan on going soon, you may want to wait until after August, but before October.  Salem tends to wind up a lot for the summer and around Halloween.  I haven't been to the PEM in years, but it is certainly worth the trip.
 
BTW, what you are doing here is making me think I may have to actually build a warship at some point in the future - I love the attention to detail you are putting into her!
 
Bob

Yep, that is perfect Dan. Thank you very much. And for once, I don't have to remake something.

No further work needed. Those two middle images show what I was looking for, which is how I made the fore pin rail. Thanks a bunch.
 
You know, the irony is that I live about 5 miles from the Peabody museum but have never been in it. I have been meaning to go for ever and have just never gotten around to it.

Fine work!
 
I would strongly suggest that you add some pins to the stanchions so that you can anchor the assembly to the deck. I've read numerous build logs where the pin rails have been pulled off the deck when rigging lines were attached.

Tom,
 
This is  somewhat difficult to see but a photo of the Hull model at the PEM
 
Dan

Tom,
 
Here are a few that I took, The glass case was up against a wall which limited my angle.
 
Glad to help anytime.
 
Be well
Dan

Tom ,
 
I should have looked more before I leaped. I think that this one should help.
 
Dan

Dan, yes that at least looks similar to what I made. Do any of those pictures have the rail at the fore mast? That is the one I am not sure of.

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part  7 – Lower Stern
 
In the framed version of the model, individual stern timbers provided the foundation for the planking of the stern.  On this POB version the complex shape of the stern was constructed from solid pine.  The upper section was shaped in the last part.
 
The foundation for the stern below the wale was shaped from a solid block like the upper stern piece.  The piece is curved in three planes. The horizontal curve of its upper face is defined by the lower edge of the upper stern piece – at about the line of the wale.  In the first picture that line is being traced on a wood block.
 

 
The piece was first marked with a centerline so it could be indexed to the stern assembly.  In the next picture vertical curves on either side are being marked from the shape of bulkhead 48.
 

 
With the lines drawn, the lower shape of the piece was cut on the scroll saw.
 

 
The pieces removed were then taped back on using transparent tape so the curved line of the horizontal face could be cut as shown in the next picture.
 

 
These cuts could be made in either order.  The piece was then glued to the aft side of frame 48 and the upper piece. The frame 48 assembly was then glued to the hull as shown below.  The curve of the aft face was then roughed out down to the forward edge of the sternpost – indicated by the pencil line on the spine.
 

 
The pencil line shown was drawn using a template.  This end of the hull is now ready for fairing – or will be when the excess spine material is removed.  But first the bow will need to be constructed – in the next part.
 
On this version of the model, all of the filling material – spacers, spine and these filler blocks – are cut from ¾” thick pine.  This material is easy to obtain, can be ripped and cross cut on a 4” diameter model saw and on most scroll saws.  I used available scraps for this – some clear sugar (white) pine and some pine from a home center.  This latter material is actually a species called Radiata.  While a form of pine and clear of knots, it has dark hard growth rings that can be seen in the spacers in the above picture.  The contrast with the clear sugar pine of the lower spine is evident.  In retrospect, I would avoid this species.  The hard growth rings made some work more difficult, specifically pinning and tacking to secure planking, but also some shaping.
 
 
Ed

Thanks JS. I am going one further than pins - I have added wooden strips that will support the deck planks and will drill holes for the posts in these support pieces, glue in the rail to the supports, then plank around the posts. I was concerned that even with pins these small posts might pull out.

Thanks Tim, Dan, George, and Jay, and the likes.
 
Jay, the plans I am using show the rail in relation to the main mast, so I can locate it from that. Of course, if the main mast location has moved since 1812 it won't be exactly right.
 

 
One more shot of the rail after some more work. I sanded the two lower rails so they are thinner now and match better. I also sanded down the tops of the posts so they are almost flush with the top rail. I didn't want to break anything so I stopped sanding when I got close. I also installed the sheaves between the two bottom rails. I used a strip of wood that I ran through the table saw on both sides to make a groove, then cut off squares and used a thin file to continue the groove around to the other two sides, to simulate a round piece between two square pieces. This picture is actually a little too close to see them clearly. I don't think I'll be running any lines through these as they are kind of fragile and the holes are pretty small.
 

 
I can now stain the fore and main pin rails, mount what I can and get ready to plank the spar deck. There is a support for the spencer mast at the mizzen that I need to make too. I can leave the spider rail for the mizzen until I make that mast since it does not attach to the deck.

Thanks JS. I am going one further than pins - I have added wooden strips that will support the deck planks and will drill holes for the posts in these support pieces, glue in the rail to the supports, then plank around the posts. I was concerned that even with pins these small posts might pull out.

Thanks Tim, Dan, George, and Jay, and the likes.
 
Jay, the plans I am using show the rail in relation to the main mast, so I can locate it from that. Of course, if the main mast location has moved since 1812 it won't be exactly right.
 

 
One more shot of the rail after some more work. I sanded the two lower rails so they are thinner now and match better. I also sanded down the tops of the posts so they are almost flush with the top rail. I didn't want to break anything so I stopped sanding when I got close. I also installed the sheaves between the two bottom rails. I used a strip of wood that I ran through the table saw on both sides to make a groove, then cut off squares and used a thin file to continue the groove around to the other two sides, to simulate a round piece between two square pieces. This picture is actually a little too close to see them clearly. I don't think I'll be running any lines through these as they are kind of fragile and the holes are pretty small.
 

 
I can now stain the fore and main pin rails, mount what I can and get ready to plank the spar deck. There is a support for the spencer mast at the mizzen that I need to make too. I can leave the spider rail for the mizzen until I make that mast since it does not attach to the deck.

Thanks Tim, Dan, George, and Jay, and the likes.
 
Jay, the plans I am using show the rail in relation to the main mast, so I can locate it from that. Of course, if the main mast location has moved since 1812 it won't be exactly right.
 

 
One more shot of the rail after some more work. I sanded the two lower rails so they are thinner now and match better. I also sanded down the tops of the posts so they are almost flush with the top rail. I didn't want to break anything so I stopped sanding when I got close. I also installed the sheaves between the two bottom rails. I used a strip of wood that I ran through the table saw on both sides to make a groove, then cut off squares and used a thin file to continue the groove around to the other two sides, to simulate a round piece between two square pieces. This picture is actually a little too close to see them clearly. I don't think I'll be running any lines through these as they are kind of fragile and the holes are pretty small.
 

 
I can now stain the fore and main pin rails, mount what I can and get ready to plank the spar deck. There is a support for the spencer mast at the mizzen that I need to make too. I can leave the spider rail for the mizzen until I make that mast since it does not attach to the deck.

Thanks Tim, Dan, George, and Jay, and the likes.
 
Jay, the plans I am using show the rail in relation to the main mast, so I can locate it from that. Of course, if the main mast location has moved since 1812 it won't be exactly right.
 

 
One more shot of the rail after some more work. I sanded the two lower rails so they are thinner now and match better. I also sanded down the tops of the posts so they are almost flush with the top rail. I didn't want to break anything so I stopped sanding when I got close. I also installed the sheaves between the two bottom rails. I used a strip of wood that I ran through the table saw on both sides to make a groove, then cut off squares and used a thin file to continue the groove around to the other two sides, to simulate a round piece between two square pieces. This picture is actually a little too close to see them clearly. I don't think I'll be running any lines through these as they are kind of fragile and the holes are pretty small.
 

 
I can now stain the fore and main pin rails, mount what I can and get ready to plank the spar deck. There is a support for the spencer mast at the mizzen that I need to make too. I can leave the spider rail for the mizzen until I make that mast since it does not attach to the deck.

My problem with plastic has always been getting glue where it isn't supposed to be. Much harder to deal with than cleaning glue off wood, I think. But hten again, it has been probably 45 years since I built a plastic model 

Thanks Tim, Dan, George, and Jay, and the likes.
 
Jay, the plans I am using show the rail in relation to the main mast, so I can locate it from that. Of course, if the main mast location has moved since 1812 it won't be exactly right.
 

 
One more shot of the rail after some more work. I sanded the two lower rails so they are thinner now and match better. I also sanded down the tops of the posts so they are almost flush with the top rail. I didn't want to break anything so I stopped sanding when I got close. I also installed the sheaves between the two bottom rails. I used a strip of wood that I ran through the table saw on both sides to make a groove, then cut off squares and used a thin file to continue the groove around to the other two sides, to simulate a round piece between two square pieces. This picture is actually a little too close to see them clearly. I don't think I'll be running any lines through these as they are kind of fragile and the holes are pretty small.
 

 
I can now stain the fore and main pin rails, mount what I can and get ready to plank the spar deck. There is a support for the spencer mast at the mizzen that I need to make too. I can leave the spider rail for the mizzen until I make that mast since it does not attach to the deck.