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popeye2sea

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Everything posted by popeye2sea

  1. popeye2sea
    Thank you, I meant to say late 1700's on. But, even with that, the positioning of the blocks for the lines remains the same. Regards, Henry
  2. popeye2sea
    Most ships (from the 1700's on) sails were bent to a jack stay mounted on top and a little to the front of the yard. The sail itself hangs in front of the yard. The sail is furled up in front of the yard and is bundled up into a tight roll on top of the yard. Bunt line and leech line blocks hang before the sail, while the sheet line quarter blocks, clew line blocks and reef tackle blocks hang abaft. Footrope stirrups hang aft of the yard, also. Regards, Henry
  3. popeye2sea
    True, rope of braided construction does exist and can be used for an anchor rode, but that is not the same as laying up a flat or sennit braid with three ropes as Bill did for his model. Two totally different things. Plus, I don't think braided construction rope (mostly constructed from nylon or other man made fibers) existed in the 17th century. Regards, Henry
  4. popeye2sea
    Strange instructions. Never heard of braiding three ropes together to make a cable. I don't think that would have been done, ever. You would be better served by getting yourself some large size rope from one of the fine manufacturers listed on MSW. I think I used one of the largest sizes (2mm) from Syren. Some manufacturers even supply left hand (cable laid) rope, which is what you get when you lay up three right hand laid ropes into a cable. Regards, Henry
  5. popeye2sea
    That is exactly how I did the shaping. Good job. Different topic. What are you using for rope for your anchor cables? It looks braided. Regards, Henry
  6. popeye2sea
    I think I got Deja Vu from that last picture😲
  7. popeye2sea
    Yes, the beakhead grating butts up to the bow planking and sits on top of the wale. The demi-lune bowsprit deck (how's that for a made up name?) does not quite cover the seam between the bow planking and the grating. Regards, Henry
  8. popeye2sea
    The first time I rigged the gammoning was only temporary. Nothing was seized or tied off. In fact, in the pictures you can see the extra-long tail of the gammoning hanging and trailing off the picture. The final installation of the gammoning with the long blocks took place after the filler was fitted in the cheeks. Regards, Henry
  9. popeye2sea
    Don't forget the row of cap shingles on your dormers. 🙂 The building looks so realistic. Great job. Regards, Henry
  10. popeye2sea
    Bill, Evergreen styrene comes in strip stock as well as sheet stock. The head rail supports were carved out of 1/4 x 1/4 square strip stock. I think😏. It may have been slightly different size stock but the method is still the same. The way I worked out the shape was to take measurements across and along the stem with a set of calipers to transfer them to the strip stock. I worked out the 'rise' so to speak by temporarily offering up the head rails to the stem and taking the measurement of the distance to the bottom head rail. That at least got me close. Then it was a matter of working them into a pleasing shape and fine tuning the fit. I added the decorative details on the outboard faces by molding some resin parts. For the billet I used between the upper and lower cheek rails I traced the shape on paper and then transferred it to the strip stock. Again, there is a lot of fettling to get a good fit and pleasing profile. Regards, Henry
  11. popeye2sea
    The difficulty with doing this operation off the ship is that the upper and lower stem don't connect with each other so that you will constantly be guessing about the proper gap between them and the shape of your filler piece. Regards, Henry
  12. popeye2sea
    I think Marc added an additional rail above the bulwark of the poop deck (poop-royal?). Regards, Henry
  13. popeye2sea
    One way to do this is to CA stiffen a much longer length of your line (1 to 2 inches or whatever is needed). You can then get the line in to wherever the block is. Of course this does waste a bit more line and if you are purchasing your line it is not cheap. Regards, Henry
  14. popeye2sea
    There is a product in the same line called Easy Cast. It is a clear epoxy casting resin. Once you have the mold you mix the two part resin and pour the casting. Once it sets you can unmold, trim and paint. Regards, Henry
  15. popeye2sea
    The first pass with a very sharp blade is just to define the cut. Then you follow up with successive deeper passes with the knife until you can separate the panels. The trick is not to try and cut too deep with each pass. Regards, Henry
  16. popeye2sea
    Following the kit order of build is not bad. The fit of the forward bulwarks against the beakhead bulkhead isn't that great. It ends up with some heavy overlap of the bulk head from the sides. You could pare this down and depending on how you think it should go you can scribe the continuation of the side plank strakes across the edge of the beakhead bulkhead. The head rails hide much of this area later on. Filling the gap between the top rails is also a good idea. I also had to do a lot of filling on the inside seam of the upper bulwarks and the deck. I did use the gap to hide the tails of the eyebolts that I put though the bulwarks for the chain anchor points. The eyebolt tails were bent over into the gap and then the filler putty covers everything up. I do recall having to trim and fill parts of the stern plate to make it fit snugly to the sides. This, again, is a rather slipshod joint. Nothing substantial to attach to. I think the addition of a few gussets back there could have helped. If I recall the joint between the stern plate and the transom is just a butt joint also. Nothing really there to fix the stern plate to. I painted everything prior to assembly. There was some touch up involved afterwards. Regards, Henry
  17. popeye2sea
    They ought to be. I'm the photographer. Regards, Henry
  18. popeye2sea
    There are two ports in the beakhead bulkhead on the second battery deck. There are also two uncovered ports on the third battery deck. Regards, Henry
  19. popeye2sea
    I always assumed untarred rope. Who would want all that tar on their hammock? Regards, Henry
  20. popeye2sea
    Thank you, Bill. I have just taken the build down off the shelf to start dusting it off after a couple of years of non activity. I am going to enter it in the USS Constitution Model Shipwright Guild annual model show as an in-process model. As I continue to work through all the other stuff I have going on the build continues to work it's way higher on the priority list. Hoping to start construction again soon. Regards, Henry
  21. popeye2sea
    Mine is still afloat after 225 years! Regards, Henry
  22. popeye2sea
    NO! It is the knight head at the fore mast on the forecastle deck. The large one aft of the main mast can stay where it is! Regards, Henry
  23. popeye2sea
    I am building a 1:100 Soleil Royale. I used a 2mm block for all the gun tackles. A 2mm block scales to 7.8 inches for the actual size. That is not far off what would be be used. And, visually it looks pleasing on the model. You get a decent drift between the two tackle blocks. Regards, Henry
  24. popeye2sea
    Hear, Hear!! Regards, Henry
  25. popeye2sea
    I have 3, 4, and 5mm dead eyes for my build. I used 2mm blocks for all the cannon rigging. I plan on 2.5mm for the smallest jewel blocks and the like while the majority of the rigging will be 3, 4, and 5mm up to 6 and 7mm for the very largest of the blocks (main stay, top ropes, and mast tackle pendants). I purchased most of what I will need already from Syren. The dimension of blocks usually refers to the overall length. I find the molded Heller blocks to be very unrealistic. I will not use them. Take a look at what I did to move the fore halyard knight head. It should not be directly behind the fore mast. If left there the main stay will foul the halyard tackle. I shifted the knight head to starboard. Regards, Henry

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