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Everything posted by popeye2sea
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The usage of the term jig in this instance is short for jigger tackle, which is a type of tackle arrangement. Usually it refers to a single and a double block, both stropped with tails. The tackle that is used to extend the stuns'l booms does not, as far as I know, have a distinct name other than you can refer to it as whatever it is being used for. To explain. This tackle used to haul out the boom would be termed an outhaul in this usage. But, the same tackle, by shifting its attachment point is also the inhaul tackle to bring the boom back in and the tricing tackle when employed to lift up the inner end of the boom to give better access to the men on the foot ropes while furling sail. With regard to my reference to a cleat, in the diagram above there is a cleat with a sheave let in attached to the outer side of the trestle tree. The diagram shows the truss tackle pendant being re-directed up towards the top around those sheaves. If you rig the pendants as I described above in my post the pendant gets re-directed upwards as it passes through the thimble of the strap around the yard. Thus the pendant will run fairly straight up and down to the tackle under the cap and the additional cleat/sheave is not necessary. The crossing over of the pendants abaft the mast is what pulls the yard in to the mast. Regards, Henry
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Yes, the barrel did drop a bit. But the change was not large enough to make any difference in the placement of the guns in the ports. Regards, Henry
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On mine I shaved off the raised trunnion supports completely and carved a new semicircular bed for the trunnion. I added cap squares made from black paper on top of the trunnions. I also moved the trunnions back a bit on the cannons by shaving off the trunnions then pushing a small brass rod through holes I drilled through the cannon in the appropriate spot. I did not end up moving the wheels for most of the cannons because I already had them assembled and they were going into the lower decks anyway. I did change the ones that were going to be visible on the upper decks. Regards, Henry
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The labelling of these are wrong. The blue are jeers. They are actually what are doing the heavy lifting of the yard. The green is the sling and it is in effect the preventer for the jeers so that the yard does not fall if the jeers are severed in battle. The red are the truss tackles and they function to pull the yard in close to the mast. The truss should be rigged as follows: Two straps are fitted around the yard, inside the cleats, with large thimbles to pass pass the truss pendants through. The truss pendants have an eye spliced in the end. The pendants are passed around the yard inside the cleats and through the eye. The ends are then passed abaft the mast and through the thimble of the strap so that the port pendant passes through the starboard strap thimble, and the starboard through the port thimble. In the upper end a block is turned in, which is connected by its fall to an eyebolt under the cap. The fall may or may not come down to the deck. Sometimes it was belayed in the top. That cleat with the sheave on the trestle trees is not used for the truss pendants. Regards, Henry
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I think those marks are intended to represent the extra planking put on as a sort of fender or rub strake for the anchors. I know they have a name but I do not recall what they are called. Regards, P.S. I just remembered......Anchor Lining. And the Heller instructions call for painting the area forward of those lines black. Regards,
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Lowering the yards for reefing or shortening sail is a totally different animal than striking the entire yard or setting a sail flying by bending the sail to its yard on deck and hoisting the entire yard aloft from the deck or the top. Sending the entire yard down was usually reserved for upper yards only (topgallants and above). Topsail yards being far too heavy to allow this procedure. Reefing or shortening sail by lowering the yard along its mast is a holdover from the days before reef points and foot ropes. Under the older method to shorten sail you lower the yard and then unlace the bonnet from the bottom of the sail. With the newer method the reef band is pulled up to the yard and gathered under the yard. This is the direct cause for foot ropes coming into use and also is the reason the lower yards (courses) were no longer lowered at all and remain at a fixed height. There are also the additional benefits of reducing top hamper and easier access by the crew as mentioned by others above. Regards,
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Fashion a loop at the top that will accept a toggle and splice in a toggle an inch or so below the flag and you have an authentic flag ready to be bent on to your halyard. Well done. Regards,
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Yes, just a standard #11 blade. I was very careful to start by lightly scoring along the cut line and then gradually deepen the cut with repeated passes. Regards,
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Seats of Ease
popeye2sea replied to stuglo's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Adding another layer... to get "pooped" meant to take a following sea over the stern. Regards, -
Pay no attention to the electric wiring, light fixtures, and fire suppression plumbing. 😃 That was a fun day. I was topside teaching them how to shoot muskets. Regards,
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Basically, I took the cut out inserts and thinned them from the back so they would not project out too much and then mounted them on a sheet of styrene stock that is shaped to fit between the wales. The upper one is also shaped to fit around the gun port molding. I filled the gaps between the figures with additional strip styrene to make them all flush with each other. Then I shaped and fitted a floor between the bulwark and the quarter gallery. I cut a small rebate on the back of each forward pillar on the quarter gallery to fit over the new inserts, then puttied all the crevices and painted. The slight difference in the apparent thickness of the bulkheads is barely noticeable because the transition is hidden behind the pillars and up against the rearmost 3rd battery gun port molding. Regards,
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The crew mostly ate a stew made from salt beef or salt pork or salt cod and dried peas. This was boiled in the coppers behind the stove pipe (those lids on top of the stove). It was usually only the officers who got something roasted in the front of the stove. The ships biscuit or hard tack, which if you have ever tried it is too hard to bite, would have been broken into pieces and soaked in their stew to soften it up for eating. It was pretty much the same food every day for the crew. The officers were also privileged to get various boiled puddings made from the roasting pan drippings, suet and raisins, etc. Regards,
- 27 replies
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- galley stove
- Syren Ship Model Company
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ventre-de-biche is French for belly of the doe. He is referring to the tan color of the sides. Regards,
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In the 1795 flag act the two extra stars and stripes were added for Kentucky and Vermont. Tennessee (1796) and Ohio (1803) Louisiana (1812) entered as states, however no new flag act was established. Various unofficial flags were flown with the additional stars and stripes. The United States flag was fifteen stars and stripes throughout the war of 1812. In 1818 Congress decreed that one star would be added for each state on the 4th of July following statehood, and there was to be thirteen stripes to represent the 13 original states. There was no standard pattern for the arrangement of the stars until 1912. Regards,
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The kit does not have chains. They instruct you to install eye bolts into the hull and connect the deadeye strops to the eyebolts with string. That is why I made my own chains. Regards,
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I made my own iron strops and chains for the deadeyes from wire that I soldered and blackened. Regards,
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Round deadeyes are the way to go. I am using 3,4,5 and 6mm deadeyes from Syren. Regards,
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There is no set position. The trim of the sail would be determined by conditions of the moment. ie. direction of the wind, wind speed, position of the rudder, etc. It would be analogous to flying a plane. You get the plane going at the correct pitch angle then you set the trim tabs (your ships mizzen) to relieve back pressure on the control stick or yoke (your ships helm). It is a constant or at least frequent adjustment. Regards,
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Lateen mizzen sails, drivers, spankers, etc. are all what are known as steering sails. They work by increasing or decreasing pressure on the after part of the rig. This in turn helps to keep the ship pointing into the wind in the right direction. By hauling in the sheet (bringing the sail closer to the centerline, you increase the pressure on the aft part of the rig which will pushes the stern more downwind and the bow up further into the wind. The fore sails and jibs work in the same manner but in the opposite direction, helping to push the bow off the wind. So the answer to your question is. Set it however you find looks pleasing to you. It is more than likely to have been put in any position and adjusted depending on steering orders and fine tuning of the sail trim. Regards,
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Are we speaking of a square mizzen or a fore and aft or lateen mizzen? Regards,
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That I can not tell you. Your instructions must have a belaying plan somewhere. The beakhead is the small deck or grating that extends from the bow of the ship under the bowsprit to the stem of the ship. Some ships there is a fife rail situated on that deck. Other times there might be a fife rail on the forecastle. Or the lines might belay directly to the rail of beakhead bulkhead (the forward rail of the forecastle). Regards,
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