popeye2sea

The notations are all there on the plate. They are just really, really hard to read without magnification. Regards,

That is a really nice set up you have made there. Regards,

A bit more information: The notes on the plan sheets for item F 'ganci amantigli' translates literally to lovers hooks; which I think is the same as sister hooks. The inset box on the rigging sheet translates to: the hooks can be hooked to the eyebolts on the topgallant moor's heads.? If the sails are installed, hook the hooks to the clews of the topgallant sails. Regards,

You can always use the other accepted spelling cont splice. Regards,

I see what you mean about the rigging plan being confusing. For instance in the second photo there is a line #39 leading through blocks at the crosstrees then through block #262 at the yardarm terminating in a hook shaped something (F). It is depicted on a diagram showing the lifts for the yards, but it is rigged more like the topgallant sheet. What is "F"? Is that a designator for a sail? Regards,

Your method is good and sound. It does allow you to average out any inconsistencies in the wrapping. Regards,

Nice method. But it strikes me as a bit overkill. Why wrap more than one inch? Count the turns in one inch and then do the simple division. For very thin diameters you can even wrap a fraction of an inch, like a 1/2 or 1/4 and then do the appropriate math. Regards,

For what It's worth, the cerulean blue is also very close to Prussian Blue, which was a very common color used in the militaries of the period. Regards,

Great job with the photography using a plain background. I particularly like #19 with the haystack and view through the trees and the hazy view of taller buildings in the distance. Well done perspective shot! Have you spoken with the inn keeper about booking rooms? I will be on the next carriage from Paris. It may take some time. The horses are slow and the roads are bad. Regards,

I agree with Allan and the order of fitting the standing rigging over the mast head. Also, the order of setting them up (tightening) the stays, shrouds, and backstays needs to be considered. You will need to step the bowsprit and at the very least rig and set up the bob stays for the bowsprit. This will allow you to set up the fore stay. I set up the fore stay first using a temporary back stay belayed somewhere aft on the ship. This allows me to fix the mast rake at the proper angle. Then I set up the shrouds and backstays, working in pairs alternating port and starboard. I generally work from forward to aft, setting up the lower masts. I also fit the yards on each mast as I go. Then I move on to the topmasts, again forward to aft. I find that setting up the lower masts first gives me a good stable 'base' for aligning and setting up the upper masts. The only draw back to this method is that you have to get comfortable with the amount of rigging that is inevitably going to be hanging from the mast before you get to the running rigging. I estimate the lengths of running rigging needed for each line before attaching it to the yards and sails and coil it up into a hank that hangs from the yard until needed. Again, I assemble everything, sails, blocks, rigging, etc. on the yard prior to crossing the yard on its mast. And I hoist and cross the yards on their respective masts before I even step the next higher mast. I have to say, this method is not what everyone does. Each modeler finds the rigging method they feel most comfortable with. Regards,

I don't think you need to shift the rope while actually serving. What the 'endless' option provides for you is a way to take up the excess line on either end so that it does not tangle and get caught up in the handles and gears. The way I use this is to fix the rope tightly in place and serve a length of rope as far as I can. If the service needs to be continued, that is when I shift the rope to be served further along between the bobbins. Then I can continue serving. Hope that makes sense. Regards,

Underhill's Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier describes most of the wire running rigging terminating with a block shackled in to take a simple whip of rope or whatever tackle was required. For example: sheets for the square sails were chain shackled into the clew of the sail and rove through a sheave in the yardarm then through fairleads beneath the yard terminating at a point just beyond the cloverleaf sheet block where they were shackled to wire rope which lead down towards the deck. The wire rope was then spliced into a double or triple block rove with rope to the lower block shackled to the deck. Regards,

Truly wonderful work. A small suggestion? When you go to take the final pictures before or after final assembly take them in front of a sky blue backdrop. I think the effect would be stunning. The illusion would be complete! You are a master! Regards,

I think he was asking about the other blocks labelled "E", which are hanging from a strap that passes over to cap and crosses in front of the mast to hang at the level of the cheeks. If I am not mistaken those are the upper jeer blocks. The corresponding blocks would be attached to the yard. Regards,

Could it be an octagonal shaped deck prism to allow light through to the lower deck? Regards,

Just watched the movie yesterday. I really enjoyed it. In the end notes to the film they mention that the work of Basil Brown was finally recognized at some point by the British Museum. Regards,

I concur, John. 24 inches was the standard width of the sail cloth. Two inches on each side was taken up in the seam overlap, leaving 20 inches between seams. Regards,

Meriam Webster still lists a definition of bend as something that is bent: as in a wale. Regards,

I do not think that you can use lizards because they would interfere with the running of the sail up or down the stay. I believe that it would be sufficient to pass the downhauls through a few of the hanks. As to which side the slack in the downhaul falls on, I think it just falls naturally on either side and has no effect on the sail whatsoever. When the hauling end comes inboard there was a pattern that was followed whereby each successive sail from inboard to outboard alternated from port to starboard with the inner sails belayed closer to the middle of the range or pin rail, and each successive sail downhaul belaying further out. Regards,

You could try using a cow hitch, where the end of the line comes back in towards the center, giving a more finished edge to the outside. Regards,

I I do not have a source for any rule on scripted numerals. Just going on what I have read in other places. One additional note from when I was pouring over this table. All of the other numerals: 0,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 are readily identifiable, leaving this to be the numeral one by process of elimination. Regards,

One followed by another numeral is scripted, while one by itself is not Regards

Looks like a one to me. Regards,

Do you mean a single row parrel that you might find on an upper yard? Regards,

I have read some different opinions on the efficacy of serving on wet ropes. One is that the service helps to keep the water out of the rope and the opposite, that the service tends to trap water in and hasten rot. I suppose it would be up to the Bo's'un which way to go here. Martingale stays and back ropes get awfully wet. The other thing to consider is the method of rigging the stays. Are they fixed lengths that are seized or shackled to the martingale, or do they run in one part through a hole. If they run through a hole or a crook in the martingale then I would consider servicing a short length in the way of the martingale in order to reduce friction at that point. Regards,